Ask The Guide

You’re spot on when you say pinging won’t be good for the engine long term, but even in the short term, this needs to be fixed to prevent serious engine damage. The best advice is to find a mechanic or workshop that is experienced in this make and model and tap into that experience.

Fundamentally, the main causes of engine pinging (or detonation or pre-ignition, call it what you will) are a lean air-fuel mixture, incorrect ignition timing, fuel with an insufficient octane rating, carbon build-up inside the engine or an engine that is running too hot. None of these things should be hard to spot for the right mechanic.

The government has, indeed, made changes to fuel quality standards, but none of these should have affected the octane rating (or RON) of the fuel. In fact, there are mandated Standards for fuel octane, although that doesn’t rule out the odd bad batch. Do you fill up at the same service station every time? It might be time to try a new one.

The answer depends on which particular engine your car is fitted with. In 2005, Mitsubishi gave the Lancer a facelift, at which point the ES version could be had with the original 2.0-litre engine or the newer and more powerful 2.4-litre unit.

If your car has the 2.0-litre engine, then it is fitted with a timing chain which should last the life of the car. If it’s the 2.4-litre unit, then it has a rubber timing belt which needs to be changed at regular intervals.

The general consensus seems to be that the belt-change interval for this engine is every 90,000km or six years, whichever comes first. Mechanics also recommend you replace the water pump and the various pulleys and tensioners at the same time to avoid having to disassemble the engine a second time when the pump starts to leak six months from now.

A fault for the pre-crash safety systems on your car is more likely to be centred around the sensors that determine your distance from the car in front, speed, brake application, and forces acting on the car at that moment. Perhaps a faulty fuel sensor could be part of that problem, but possibly not the root cause. It’s hard to imagine that a fuel sensor could be telling the car it’s about to crash. You really need to find out the number of the fault code that’s being thrown and work it out from there.

These safety systems can usually be reset at a dealership or switched-on independent workshop. The cost will vary, but it’s important to have these systems working properly to ensure the car can be legally used on the road and that your insurance company won’t desert you should the unthinkable happen while a major safety system is on the blink.

Meanwhile, the timing belt on the turbo-diesel engine fitted to this series of Prado does, indeed, require replacement at 150,000km or every five years, whichever comes first. So, even if you haven’t covered that distance yet, the five years are definitely up and you should change the belt to avoid it failing and destroying the engine in the process.

If however, the engine in your Prado is the much less common 4.0-litre V6 petrol, then it doesn’t have a timing belt at all. Instead, this engine uses a timing chain which should be good for the life of the vehicle.

Don’t even bother trying to fix this important safety feature yourself. Instead, take the vehicle to the dealer you bought it from, as this is a classic warranty job. Plenty of makes and models have problems with camera systems either freezing or shutting down, and sometimes it’s as simple as a dirty lens on the camera.

But, in reality, a 360-degree camera system is a pretty complex piece of gear and needs to be tackled by the experts, especially given its importance to the vehicle’s safety.

If you are determined to fiddle with it yourself, sometimes a reset of the car’s body computer will do the trick. Leave the car’s battery disconnected overnight and reconnect it in the morning. Sometimes this will reset things back to factory settings and the camera (and other functions) will magically come back to life.

Conventional wisdom suggests that a modern electronic fuel-injection system is smart enough not to flood an engine when starting., However, experience tells me that sometimes, you can get excess fuel into the engine if it doesn’t fire straight away. However, if you keep trying to start it, that fuel should pass through the engine, and it should eventually fire. So, I’d say your problem is something else.

A mechanic would probably start by checking things like whether the fuel pump is operating, the fuel and air filters, fuel pressure and whether the fuel injectors are pulsing when they should be. Your problem is likely to be a shortage of fuel rather than too much of it, so checking the fuel delivery pressure and rate is a critical step.

It’s pretty unlikely that a 1987 Toyota van even has a limp-home mode. These were pretty simple engines and shouldn’t really tax a good mechanic too badly. Provided you have spark, fuel and compression, an old Toyota four-cylinder engine is more or less obliged to run.

If you’re happy that the carburettor and ignition are spot on, the next step is to perform a compression test to see if the engine is internally worn out. This is a possibility and would explain the sluggish performance. You should also make sure things like the air filter and fuel filter are clean and not restricting the flow of fuel.

The reason you can’t start the engine in second gear is for safety reasons. Car makers fit what’s called a Neutral or Park switch, which means the engine won’t crank unless the car is in Neutral or Park. That prevents the car starting in gear and taking off.

If the lever’s connection to the transmission has failed or become excessively worn, you can get the symptoms you have because the lever won’t select Neutral or Park. And therefore the engine won’t start.

However, it’s highly questionable that this is connected to the limp-home mode. That’s usually caused by a problem with the driveline that threatens to do more damage if you continue driving. The gear lever problem sounds more like a simple mechanical issue. Did both things happen at the same time? If not, they’re very probably not related.

Start with the basics, including checking the fuse(s) that control these functions. But don’t dig too deep, because this is a warranty issue and is LDV’s responsibility to fix. The only exception would be if somebody other than LDV has fiddled with the car or somehow modified the dashboard or wiring. That could include an aftermarket workshop fitting auxiliary lighting or even possibly a different stereo head unit. Beyond that, it’s a pretty straightforward case of a warranty claim. Don’t make it your problem if you don’t have to.

Those codes are reasonably common ones. The first two (0193 and 0089) generally relate to a problem with the fuel rail, specifically the pressure in that rail. This is obviously critical to how the engine runs.

The third code (0401) is more commonly associated with the flow of the EGR valve. If this valve is damaged or blocked, then this fault code would likely show up. As such, you may find you have two separate problems, rather than a single one.

Low pressure in the fuel rail would certainly explain why the performance is off, and the overheating could easily be associated with an EGR valve failure. A blocked EGR can raise combustion chamber temperatures while a failed EGR can actually leak coolant and allow the engine to overheat that way.

The main problem with this gearbox is that it’s a CVT and that makes a lot of people a bit nervous. But in the Honda’s case there’s less to be concerned about.

That’s because Honda doesn’t just buy in its CVT, and instead, designed and engineered its own CVT to be a better thing. And it seems to have worked. That said, any Honda that exhibits juddering on take-off, a whining noise from the CVT and even slippage as the car tires to accelerate or travel up a hill needs attention.

The good news is that, in the case of the Honda CVT, the fix is often pretty simple. That’s because these problems in a Honda usually point to nothing more involved than changing the contaminated transmission fluid. For the record, the experts reckon that changing the fluid in your Honda CVT every 40,000km at the outside is the way to go, and should keep any problems at bay.

As far as the engine goes, the Civic’s turbocharged four-cylinder seems to follow Honda tradition by being remarkably reliable. However, it’s worth remembering that this is a high-tech unit and requires careful servicing if it’s to remain so. Make sure any second-hand Civic has a full and complete service history as part of the deal.