Renault Reviews

The best place to start for some professional advice is a transmission specialist. They’ll probably inspect the transmission in your car and will be able to work out whether it can be fixed or if it needs to be replaced.

If you do need a replacement CVT, there are three main ways to go. You could buy a brand new replacement CVT which is likely to be the most expensive course of action. The second alternative is to have the transmission shop recondition the one you already have. This will also be quite expensive.

The third option is to find a good, tested second-hand CVT from a wrecked Koleos and have that fitted. This will be by far the cheapest way to go. But the gamble with option three is that the same problems might happen again, and you’d be back to square one.

I agree that a 2016 model-year car is too new to be thrown away, but failures of CVT transmissions are more common than they should be. It’s something car makers need to look at when they consider future designs and engineering.

This is a more common problem than you might imagine. Because air has to escape the fuel tank to allow the fuel in, you can sometimes achieve what is pretty much an air lock when the nozzle prevents the air getting out fast enough. Either that, or the fuel filler neck is shaped so that it splashes the fuel back against the pump nozzle, making the sensor in the nozzle think the tank is full.

Some cars will be fine on some pumps and not others, while some cars are just generally a pain to fill. Yet other cars will be fine on a flat surface, but won’t fill properly on any sort of an angle or slope.

The best trick to try is to insert the nozzle into the filler neck and then turn it 90 degrees. This has the effect of directing the fuel spray somewhere other than straight back up the nozzle’s spout and triggering the pump’s shut-off mechanism. The other thing to try is to pull the trigger on the nozzle, but not all the way. That can sometimes slow the flow enough to prevent the shut-off. If that doesn’t work, you’re stuck with trickling the fuel in very slowly to avoid the pump shutting off.

Rain water is very good at getting past rubber seals. So pretty much anywhere where you have a piece of glass (windscreen or side windows) sealed against the rest of the car, you have a potential leak point. But water can also get past other types of rubber seals, including the ones that are supposed to seal the door and hatchback/boot openings. Even a small twig that gets caught on these seals can allow water in during a rain-storm.

The other possibility is that the air-conditioning drain hose is blocked or dislodged. This hose is designed to drain the moisture from the air (which separates when the air-con is used) from the air-con unit in the car to somewhere outside the car. If the drain is blocked or missing, wet carpets are another very real possibility.

But the fact that you had overnight rain before noticing the problem suggests a rubber seal is either dirty, torn or missing or has simply gone hard with age and allowing the rain in. Start with the windscreen and work your way back. A good way to find the leak is to sit in the car while somebody sprays it with a garden hose. From inside, you might see the drips of water as they make their way in.