Toyota Problems

While the CVT is enjoying a bit of a purple patch right now with many car-makers using it for its efficiency benefits, you’re not the only one, Gregg, that doesn’t want to own such a thing. The CVT’s history is littered with failures, although to be perfectly fair, they are a lot better now than they’ve ever been.

But even if you can accept their reliability track record, some owners will just never take to the CVT’s characteristics of allowing the engine to rev up and have the rest of the vehicle catch up. It can feel very alien and it’s hardly a sporty sensation, either.

With all that in mind, you probably should start looking at things like the two-wheel-drive versions of something like, say, the Toyota Kluger or Hyundai Santa Fe. Both are available in two-wheel-drive, both have conventional 8-speed automatic transmissions and both can haul a decent load (2000kg and 2500kg respectively). The Toyota even offers a hybrid driveline, but, sadly for buyers like you, that uses a CVT transmission.

The world is your oyster here, Myra, and there are literally hundreds of makes and models that will do what you want as well offer the five-star safety rating you’re looking for. Your priorities are spot on, too; safety and the driving characteristics (in this case, steering weight) are very important in how you relate to the car and enjoy driving it.

Since you’re not too concerned with what brand you buy, the best advice is to short-list a few cars that fall within your budget and then go and test drive each one, checking that it steers the way you like it. Even small hatchbacks nowadays have the safety and performance to take you pretty much anywhere the road goes. But for longer journeys, you might appreciate features such as cruise control and a full-sized spare tyre.

This could be a fault with the engine and/or transmission but it could just as easily be a fault with a sensor or even a poor earth or other electrical connection somewhere in the vehicle. Scanning the vehicle should show up any faults the on-board computer has logged.

The fix? That’s easy: Your car is still covered by the factory warranty, so Toyota is obliged to make things right. Take it back to the dealer as it’s Toyota’s problem, not yours.

It’s probably a bit hard to be certain just from looking that there’s a fault of that nature with the paint. Sometimes the individual coatings that form what we call paint are hard to see as those individual layers aren’t always obvious and are chemically bonded to each other. But I would say that a paint specialist (such as a panel shop) should be able to judge whether there’s something awry.

If the actual paint is at fault, then the problem becomes a warranty issue with either Toyota (if it’s a genuine tray) or the manufacturer that supplied the tray. That is, of course, if the paint hasn’t been chipped by actually using the vehicle as intended, at which point it would probably be deemed normal wear and tear.

Rather than concentrate on a particular brand, the best advice is to find a vehicle with a full service history and signs that it has lived an easy life. Too often, commercial vehicles like vans are bought by their first owner and used and abused. They’re nearly always purchased with a job in mind, and that job can often wreck them or at least shorten their lives.

Sometimes, the down-time associated with proper servicing means that maintenance is skipped, other times the sheer weight of the cargo being carried puts a lot of strain on mechanical components. A van that has been used by, say, a pool chemical company might have been exposed to highly corrosive chemicals every day of its life and could be hiding lots of rust. Even a florist’s van might have every nook and cranny filled with potting mix, waiting to become damp and start the rusting process.

Another good idea is to buy a van that has already been converted to a camper. This conversion is not an inexpensive process, so letting the previous owner spend the money is a terrific concept. Keep an eye on the classifieds for a van that has done a tour of duty with a grey nomad or van-lifer, and is now up for sale as the owner moves on to something new.

While it’s much less common to see a leaking rear main seal these days, it’s certainly not unheard of and definitely not an impossibility. While ever cars have seals and gaskets, they can fail, even if it’s not a common occurrence.

The rear main oil seal is the one located at the rear of the engine and is designed to allow the crankshaft to spin inside the engine without leaking oil through the rear main bearing to the outside world. When this seal wears or becomes hard with age and heat cycles, oil can get past it and that’s when you’ll start to find oily patches on the driveway under the car.

This seal is sandwiched between the engine and gearbox, so it’s quite a bit of work to separate those two components to gain access to the seal and replace it. It can easily be one of those $5 parts that costs $1500 to replace.

But before you commit to this, you need to make absolutely sure the rear main seal is the culprit. The best way to do that is to thoroughly clean the engine to remove any oil and then take it for a drive where it gets fully up to temperature. From there, you should be able to see where the oil is coming from and whether that place is the rear main seal. It might take a couple of journeys before the oil leak starts to show up again.

Don’t be surprised if the leak actually turns out to be from some external plumbing or even a seal or gasket at the back of the engine near the top, where the oil is escaping, running down the back of the engine and appearing to come from the rear main seal. Oil leaks can be tricky little devils, so take the time to diagnose the source carefully or you may find you’re replacing a seal that is perfectly fine. At which point you’ll have spent your money and still have an oil leak.

This is a very important issue as exceeding the Gross Combination Mass (GCM) is a distinct possibility in modern vehicles with high towing limits. Even if the towed trailer comes in under the permissible weight limit, if you’re heavily loaded the car towing it, you can easily be outside the GCM limit, leaving yourself open to all sorts of legal and insurance hassles if it goes wrong.

If you check your owner’s manual, you’ll find that the all-wheel-drive Kluger has a GCM of 4685kg. So, on that basis, you could tow a 1900kg caravan and load the Kluger up to the tune of about 700kg and still be legal. However, that 700kg load in the Kluger includes everything, including the humans. That arithmetic also assumes that the caravan is not carrying a single extra thing that’s not part of the actual van. That includes water in the on-board tank, gas bottles, an extra spare tyre and any other luggage. As you can see, a 1900 caravan, despite the 2000kg towing limit, might have you sailing pretty close to the legislative wind.

If you were leaving the vehicle standing for a whole year, this would be a bigger problem, but I don’t think three months of inactivity would be too harmful to the car. Plenty of people (particularly Victorians) were forced to lay up their work cars during Covid restrictions, and I haven’t heard of mass problems as a result.

You’re already ahead of some of those folks by having a garage in which to store the car, but there are also a few things you can do to reduce the impact of not moving for three months. Make sure the tyres are inflated to the correct pressure (to avoid flat posts when you return) and fill the fuel tank to reduce the chance of moisture forming in the fuel system. Wind the windows up but leave the bonnet catch undone so you can access the battery when you return.

You can also disconnect the battery but if you do, you’ll have to reprogram or re-code the radio when you return. A better way is to leave the car hooked up to a quality battery trickle-charger. Make sure you use one that is heat and fault-protected.

An even better plan of attack is to organise a trusted friend take the time to drive the car for you every few weeks. Provided they get the car up to operating temperature each time, it should be ready for action when you return.

The extra purchase price of a diesel engine over a petrol one is only the start of the cost comparison. Generally speaking, diesels will cost a bit more to service (it depends on the make and model) and that’s if you don’t have problems with the diesel particulate filter (DPF) or soot build-up in the engine’s intake system that needs to be manually cleaned out.

You also need to consider your driving habits to decide whether a diesel is right for you. As a rule of thumb, if you don’t go for a decent drive at highway speeds for about an hour or so at least once or twice a month, then a diesel is not for you. Using a diesel engine exclusively for short trips at suburban speed can often see the DPF requiring more attention than it should, and that equals cost.

Also, modern petrol engines have really closed the fuel-economy gap that the diesel once enjoyed. The fuel consumption difference between the diesel Tucson and the petrol version is likely to be about a litre per 100km (based on the official combined figure for each). That means that even at $2 per litre (and based on the $6000 difference in price you’ve quoted) you’d need to drive 300,000km before the diesel began to pay for itself in terms of fuel saved. I’m not sure there’s a full $6000 separating the two versions of the Tucson, but even so, you get the idea.