Advice

How long does a car battery last?A fully charged or new car battery can be reasonably expected to last three to six years.What is the average lifespan of a car battery? Or how long does it take for a car battery to die?Between three to six years, but the average lifespan of a car battery may differ between batteries and vehicles depending on several factors, including the make and model of the battery, how many discharge cycles it has gone through, how well it’s maintained, the condition of the host vehicle’s charging system, and whether the host vehicle has any other electrical faults.A new car battery should last three to six years.Expect to get about 2000 charge/discharge cycles out of a car battery before performance really suffers.Yes, and battery manufacturers include those life warranty details and more on their products.Lead-acid batteries are commonly used in cars and they generally last between three to five years.Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) batteries are advanced maintenance-free lead-acid batteries that are claimed to have a lifespan of six to seven years.Lithium-Ion batteries are generally used in EVs and are claimed to have aN eight-year lifespan or more.Car manufacturers generally guarantee their EV batteries for eight years/160,000km, but some EV experts reckon that electric car battery life is somewhere between 10 and 20 years.That’s anyone’s guess, but it’s been guesstimated as 26 years of ownership without a significant loss of performance or capacity.A warranty of eight years/160,000km applies to Tesla’s rear-wheel-drive Model 3 and Model Y models, or eight years/192,000km for all other Teslas in Australia.Hybrid battery warranties are generally for eight years or 160,000km, but hybrid batteries may last up to 10 years or about 160,000km-200,000km.A fully charged or new car battery can be reasonably expected to last three to six years.As above.You’d have to be pretty lucky…The older a battery is the more charge/discharge cycles it’s been through, so it’ll yield poor performance as it draws closer to its end of life.A car battery lifespan will be impacted if the battery is incorrectly hooked up (poor mounting, loose cables) or if it’s inserted in the wrong type of vehicle. For example, a truck requires a battery with a higher capacity that what may be needed in a small car, so if a small car battery is used in a truck, it probably won’t last long because of the high demands placed on it by the truck’s larger engine and systems – a car battery capacity may not be enough.Poor driving habits also affect the life of car battery, for example, frequent short-distance trips mean the battery is short-changed in terms of charging. Regular long trips are best for the battery.If a vehicle is left to sit inactive for too long – two weeks or more – then it’ll likely give you strife when you try to start it. Your best bet is to drive it for 15 minutes or so, at least once a week to keep it charged up and ready to go.A car battery is the vehicle’s starter battery, so if accessories, or lights etc. are left on in the vehicle, but the vehicle itself is not running, then that will drain much-needed power from that starter battery.How long’s a piece of string? If you want to run accessories galore, get a dual-battery set-up: one battery is the starter battery, the other battery – the auxiliary – is used to power fridges, lights, TVs etc. Dual-battery systems are popular with off-road tourers.If there’s an electrical fault in the vehicle that will also affect how much charge is being used and how long the battery will last.Extreme temperatures – hot or cold – impact battery longevity. High temps can lead to more internal wear, and cold temps can affect the battery’s performance and its ability to hold charge.Be sure to keep the battery terminals as clean as possible (free of corrosion), check your battery’s charge levels, and regularly test your battery.Using a multimeter (from $10 to buy), set it to between 15 and 20 volts, attach each of its mini alligator clips to the battery’s positive and negative terminals, and read the voltage on the multimeter’s screen – a healthy car battery voltage should have at least 12.6 volts.Your engine is more sluggish than usual, or it takes longer to start.You’re forced to frequently jump-start the vehicle in question.The car’s interior lights are weaker than usual or they flicker when you try to start the car.The actual battery casing itself looks old, swollen, or damaged.There’s noticeable corrosion on the battery terminals.The battery icon is illuminated in the driver’s display.Use a portable battery charger: the charger’s red alligator clip goes on the battery’s positive terminal, while the black alligator clip goes on the battery’s negative terminal, then switch on the charger and start charging. Some chargers automatically identify the battery once connected. On others you will have to manually input that info. Select the charging amperage (opt for lower amperage if possible) and Roberto’s your uncle.Use another vehicle to jump-start the car battery that is ‘dead’ (i.e. the battery is fully discharged). Park the nose of the ‘live’ vehicle as close as you can to the front of the dead one – this is so the jumper cables can reach both batteries. Then:Attach one red clip to the positive terminal on the dead vehicleAttach one red clip to the positive terminal on the live vehicleAttach one black clip to the negative terminal on the live vehicleAttach one black clip to an unpainted metal surface on the dead vehicle (thus grounding the charge).Start the live carStart the dead carKeep the live car running for a few minutes until you’re sure the dead car is holding charge.Then keep the dead car running for 15 minutes or more.Then remove the clips in this order:Remove the black clip from the unpainted metal surface on the dead vehicleRemove the black clip from the negative terminal on the live vehicleRemove the red clip from the positive terminal on the live vehicleRemove the red clip from the positive terminal on the dead vehicleNote: if you have to frequently jump-start the vehicle in question, then it’s time to get a new battery.A car needs about 12 volts to start.

Sometimes a new car’s price puts it out of reach of a potential buyer, or that buyer is simply at a stage in their life where a second-hand vehicle is a better fit for them.What are used cars?A used car (aka a second-hand or pre-owned car) is simply a car that is not new. It has been previously used and owned and is then resold through a car dealership, via a private seller, or an online marketplace (such as Gumtree Cars).Do they tend to be more prone to problems?Not necessarily but, by their very nature, they have been used before, so they’ve been subjected to wear and tear, as well as the previous owner’s (or owners’) good or bad maintenance habits – and, of course, used cars are older than new cars.However, new cars may also trouble their owners with myriad common car problems and are even sometimes subject to recalls over faults or car issues that only come to light after that new vehicle has been on sale and out in the real world for some time.The good news is consistent maintenance, vehicle awareness and car troubleshooting should help you to prevent any common problems in used carsHere are 10 common problem areas in used cars and we’ll work our way from the tyres up.Note if the vehicle in question is an AWD or 4WD, chances are it has been put through a tremendous amount of stress and strain on tough terrain, so it deserves even closer scrutiny before you even think about purchasing it.Tyres are your vehicle’s first – and hopefully only – point of contact with the ground, so your tyres should be in great condition with plenty of tread depth, no cracks in the tyre’s surface, and no uneven wear and tear.What are the signs of this problem?When you notice uneven tyre wear, damage (cuts or splits) or, worse, changes in the car’s on-road dynamics while you’re driving, for instance steering pulling in one direction, or high-speed vibrations, it’s time to get your tyres checked out by a pro because tyre strife is no joke.How can you avoid this problem?Regularly check tyre condition for wear and tear, always run tyres at the manufacturer recommended pressure (refer to the tyre placard in the vehicle or the driver’s manual), and have the tyres rotated (about every 5000-8000km) and balanced, and the wheels correctly aligned. Also, replace tyres if they are 10 years old or more – a tyre’s date of manufacture is stamped on its sidewall.If the brakes on a car aren’t working properly, then the issue can range from mildly annoying (best-case scenario) to dangerous (worst-case scenario). Faulty/damaged/worn-out brake pads, rotors, or callipers may lead to poor braking efficacy (i.e. longer braking distances, brakes that are slow to bite etc) and so increase the risk of an accident, minor or otherwise.What are the signs of this problem?When you notice any unusual noises from the brakes when you do brake (such as high-pitched screeching), or obvious poor performance (i.e. longer braking distances, brakes are slow to bite or bite with a jerky on-off action etc) or even a brake warning light coming on. The culprit may be the brake pads, rotors or callipers.How can you avoid this problem?Unfortunately, this is one of the common car problems but it can be remedied with diligent maintenance. Undertake regular maintenance (according to guidelines in the vehicle owner’s manual) and regularly check the condition of all of your brake pads.If there are odd noises coming from the brakes, your best bet is to tackle the issue as soon as you aware of it – don’t let it become any worse than it already is.There’s no harm in having a look yourself but, by all means, get a pro to address the problem if you’re more comfortable with that.Have the brake pads and rotors checked and, if they’re too worn, get them replaced. While the mechanic is there, have them check for leaks, drain the brake fluid and replace, and, if needed, bleed the brake fluid.Any issue with the vehicle’s suspension is the next thing to watch out for and you’ll quickly recognise if there is something wrong because the car may ride and handle like a mechanical bull – well, not quite that bad but you get the idea.What are the signs of this problem?Suspension strife – worn-out or damaged shocks, struts etc. – will result in a choppy wayward ride and poor on-road handling with impacted steering.There may be noises coming from some part of your suspension set-up and your tyres may be wearing out unevenly and faster than they should.How can you avoid this problem?Regular maintenance, in accordance with guidelines in the owner’s manual, and being sure to check all suspension components, will hopefully pick up any potential issues before they become serious.When there is an issue, there’s no harm in having a look yourself but, by all means, get a pro to address the problem if you’re more comfortable with that.Have the shocks, struts and entire set-up scrutinised, and have any worn-out or damaged components replaced. If it’s an AWD or 4WD, it may have been punished in off-road situations and will need extra attention to avoid any issues down the track.The exhaust system gets rid of your car’s emissions and any problem with it quickly becomes obvious.What are the signs of this problem?Rust may be the culprit here, or loose exhaust pipes, or a leaking exhaust manifold (often indicated by a ticking or tapping noise in the engine, an illuminated ‘check engine’ icon, and a strong exhaust smell).Any strife with the exhaust system may result in poor fuel efficiency and – warn your neighbours! – a too-loud exhaust note.How can you avoid this problem?Regular maintenance, in accordance with the recommendations in the owner’s manual.Make sure you check all exhaust components when you’re scrutinising a car and hopefully that will pick up any potential issues before they become serious.To fix this problem, you’ll have to replace any rusted, damaged or broken parts, any loose sections of the exhaust will have to be tightened, and the leaking exhaust manifold will have to be sorted out.Any issues with your electrical system – lights, indicators, brake lights, power windows etc – should be addressed as soon as possible.What are the signs of this problem?Electrical problems may manifest as headlights (or other lights) that work only intermittently or not at all, power windows that don’t work properly, or interior lights that are faulty.A blown or faulty fuse, damaged or old wiring, or even a battery issue may be the cause of an electrical system malfunction.How can you avoid this problem?Regular maintenance, according to guidelines in the owner’s manual, will reduce the chances of minor issues becoming major issues.Conduct a full inspection of the electrical system (including wiring), replace any blown or faulty fuses, and check the battery and replace if required.A faulty cooling system could result in an overheating engine, which may become even more serious engine strife and lead to damage to – or even failure of – other components in your car.What are the signs of this problem?Some indications of a cooling system problem include that aforementioned overheating engine, the engine temperature gauge rising to a high level quickly, or an obvious coolant leak.Potential causes may include a split or clogged coolant hose, a leaking radiator, or a faulty water pump.How can you avoid this problem?Regular maintenance, according to guidelines in the owner’s manual, will reduce the chances of any minor issues becoming major issues. Pay attention: if the coolant system warning light/icon is illuminated on your dash driver display, then address the issue immediately – check coolant levels and the radiator and hoses.Potential fixes include flushing the cooling system, and replacing the radiator.Any strife in the fuel system – which consists of fuel filter, pump, injectors (or carburettor if the car is very old), and, of course, tank – means fuel delivery to the engine is compromised and, as a result, the car’s overall performance will suffer.What are the signs of this problem?If the car exhibits any of these signs – rough-as-guts idling, lacklustre acceleration, engine misfires, loss of power at high revs, and/or reduced fuel efficiency – then it’s a strong indication something is amiss in the fuel system.The cause? It could be anything from a clogged, old or even incorrect fuel filter, or pump; carbon deposits in the fuel delivery set-up, poor quality fuel (beware the dirty go-juice!) or something else.How can you avoid this problem? Regular maintenance, according to guidelines in the owner’s manual, will reduce the chances of any minor issues becoming major issues.Check fuel lines, and the fuel filter, pump and replace as necessary. Clean clogged injectors or get a pro to take a look if you want a second opinion and have those replaced if needed.Engine oil is a lubricant designed to reduce damaging friction created in the inner workings of an internal-combustion engine. Without enough clean engine oil, mechanical parts wear out faster than they would otherwise.An oil leak can signal a minor problem which has the potential to become a major problem if you don’t crash-tackle it at the source as soon as possible.What are the signs of this problem?Some indications that oil is leaking from the car: a puddle of oil on your driveway, low oil level, and/or engine overheating.Oil leaks may be caused by too-low oil levels, worn-out gaskets and seals, or faulty oil filters or other components.How can you avoid this problem?Regular maintenance is key. Pay attention to the condition of all oil-related components and fix leaks immediately to avoid minor issues becoming major issues.Always use the correct type of oil (read the owner’s manual) and replace any faulty parts as soon as possible.Get a professional to take a look if you want a second opinion.A fault in a manual transmission (a gearbox) or in an automatic transmission, if left unchecked, may result in costly repairs down the track so it’s best to address any transmission issues as soon as humanly possible.What are the signs of this problem?There may be clunking or grinding noises emanating from the gearbox or it may slip out of gear, strong burning smells (transmission is overheating, low fluid level), obvious leaks (worn-out seals or gaskets), and/or the ‘check engine’ light comes on.How can you avoid this problem?Regular maintenance, according to guidelines in the owner’s manual, will reduce the chances of any minor issues becoming major issues.Maintain correct transmission fluid level (refill or change as needed), check for transmission leaks and consult a mechanic if repairs or replacements parts are needed.Overview of this problem and what it entailsProblems with steering in a used car – or, for that matter, any car – is a serious safety issue.What are the signs of this problem?Steering strife is obvious from the get-go:Any trouble with turning the steering wheel (potential cause: power-steering fluid leak somewhere in the steering set-up)Vibrations through the steering wheel (potential cause: possible contaminant build-in the power-steering system)Steering pulls to one side (potential cause: worn-out steering gear, lack of power-steering fluid)Loose-feeling steering wheel (potential cause: worn-out steering rack, tie rod)Steering wheel slips when you turn it (potential cause: pump issue, worn-out steering rack mount, or worn or loose power-steering drive belt)Grinding noises when you turn the steering wheel (probable cause: steering gear problem)Screeching noise when you turn the steering wheel (possible cause: loose or worn-out power-steering drive belt or low power-steering fluid level)How can you avoid this problem?Conducting a bit of car troubleshooting and regular maintenance, according to guidelines in the owner’s manual, will reduce the chances of any common problems in used cars becoming major problems.Regularly check the power steering fluid level, steering pump, hoses and steering rack. Note if the power steering fluid is foaming or discoloured, there may be air or water in the system, so it’s not doing its job properly and should be replaced.

When looking for a used car to buy, one of the first and most crucial aspects of your search should be how to check if a car has been in an accident.

Few employee perks can trump a company car (pizza parties run a close second), but if you’ve ever thought about providing a set of wheels for your staff, you’ll have found that the Fringe Benefits Tax can give your ABN savings a serious uppercut.In an effort to keep the rest of the world from accelerating away from us towards an electric car future, however, the Australian Government introduced an electric vehicle FBT exemption in 2022.What this means is that if you decide to provide an eligible EV as part of a salary package, you can reap all the usual benefits that come with buying a car with your ABN.Normally, FBT (FBT meaning Fringe Benefits Tax) applies when an employer provides a non-cash benefit to an employee in place of, or in addition to, their salary.These perks are called encouragement rewards. No, sorry, they’re called fringe benefits, and usually materialise as things like gym memberships, free concert tickets and company cars.In the case of company cars, the tax is triggered only when the vehicle is used for personal purposes (going to Bunnings for a sausage sandwich isn’t work, unless you’re a tradie) rather than for work.How much is FBT on a car? Using the Statutory Method, FBT is charged to the employer by applying a 47 per cent tax to a grossed-up 20 per cent of the car’s value.Yes, that does sound typically ATO complex, but fortunately there’s a handy FBT Calculator that crunches the numbers for you. Usually there’s a fair bit of record keeping involved when it comes to FBT, but the electric car FBT exemption lightens the load considerably.The government wants more people driving cleaner, greener cars as it works towards its zero-carbon goals in 2500, no, sorry 2050, and an FBT exemption for electric vehicles is a clever sleight of hand to achieve that goal.In the short term, business owners save thousands of dollars while making their fleets cheaper to run (no fuel costs, if they can use solar to charge their EV fleets the savings are even bigger) and more environmentally friendly.As a bonus, because fleet vehicles are often sold after three to four years, the theory goes that the second-hand market will soon have a healthy supply of relatively new EVs – many still under warranty – at more affordable prices for everyday Aussies.Paying no FBT on electric cars is a great way to save money, but there are strings attached. First, it must be a battery-electric vehicle (BEV), a hydrogen fuel cell vehicle (FCEV) and good luck with that, or a plug-in hybrid electric vehicle (PHEV).No matter which one you go for, the car must be used by a current employee or an immediate family member. Keep in mind that the PHEV FBT exemption will end on 1 April 2025, while the BEV one will continue.Second, the car must have been first purchased and used on or after 1 July 2022. If you bought an EV before that date, the prize for early adoption is paying the standard rate of FBT.Finally, the car’s price must be under the Luxury Car Tax (LCT) threshold for fuel-efficient vehicles (currently sitting at $91,387) to qualify for the exemption. Being the golden goose that it is, the LCT clause doesn’t just apply to the initial sale – it sticks with the car for life.So, even if you manage to find a used Porsche Taycan priced under the current LCT threshold, it won’t qualify for the FBT exemption, now or ever. Luxury Car Tax exemptions do not seem to be on the table for FBT purposes.To further sweeten the deal, cars that qualify for the FBT exemption also get FBT-free running costs, including registration, insurance, maintenance, repairs, and even the electricity used for charging.However, installation costs for a home charging station aren’t exempt and would still attract FBT if covered by the employer.It’s worth noting that although your EV and charging costs are exempt from FBT, the benefit is still reportable. Calculating it is a matter of multiplying the total kilometres driven by the percentage of charging done at home, then applying the EV home charging rate of 4.20 cents per kilometre.If commercial charging is used, you should include those costs only if you can accurately determine the split between home and external charging.If you can separate the car from the artist, it’s still one of the best EVs out there – especially after a recent refresh that brought interior upgrades, a sleeker front-end design, and a quieter ride. Prices start at $54,900, before on-road costs, for the 2025 Model 3 RWD and rise to $80,900 for the full-fat Performance AWD (still well under FBT).Manufacturer: TeslaKey Specs: Up to 629km claimed WLTP range, RWD or AWDWarranty: four years/80,000 km (vehicle), eight years/160,000km (battery and drive unit)Why Consider It? Class-leading efficiency, Supercharger network, and an ultra-minimalist interior (which you’ll either love or tolerate).More Info: Tesla AustraliaHyundai’s retro-futuristic SUV is outrageously cool looking, with a thoughtful interior that’s put together with a real sense of purpose and quality. All but the $110,000 range-topping “N” variant meet the EV FBT threshold.Manufacturer: HyundaiKey Specs: Up to 570km claimed WLTP range, RWD or AWD, 800V fast-chargingWarranty: five years/unlimited kilometres (vehicle), eight years/160,000km (battery)Why Consider It? Retro-futuristic looks, roomy interior, and ultra-fast charging.Learn more: Hyundai AustraliaThe Polestar 2 carries that same left-of-centre intellectual appeal that Saab once enjoyed, with a Scandinavian design that pairs exceedingly well with turtlenecks and loafers.Manufacturer: PolestarKey Specs: Up to 655km WLTP range (long-range variant), RWD or AWDWarranty: five years/unlimited kilometres (vehicle), eight years/160,000km (battery)Why Consider It? Scandinavian design, premium materials, and concierge servicing.More Info: Polestar AustraliaThe BYD Atto 3 is an affordable EV that proves China is taking this whole electric car thing very seriously. The range kicks off at just $39,990, before on-roads, and is backed by a reassuring six-year/150,000km vehicle warranty.Manufacturer: BYDKey Specs: Up to 420km claimed WLTP range, FWD, 'Blade' battery technologyWarranty: Six years/150,000km (vehicle), eight years/160,000km (battery)Why Consider It? Competitive pricing, decent range, and a cool interior.More Info: BYD AustraliaThe best place to learn more about the exemption and any upcoming changes is the ATO website. There you’ll find answers to questions surrounding what cars are exempt from FBT, how does FBT work, and how much is FBT on a car.

So, you’re heading on a road trip! What fun, but also… kind of a headache if you don’t have the right vehicle.

US pick-ups are all the rage in Australia and with a full-sized Toyota Tundra a fresh arrival, fans of these big utes are about to be even more spoiled for choice.

Pop-up headlights: A great automotive idea or a fashion-driven waste of time? In truth, it’s probably a bit of both.Pop-up headlight have been around for many decades, but they really became popular in the late 1970s and, particularly, the 1980s. This could suggest that they’re a fashion item, but it’s worth remembering this was also a time when fuel economy and emissions became more important to carmakers than they had ever been.And that’s the point, because, in most cases, there was an aerodynamic consideration when cars were designed with pop-up headlights. And that’s probably their greatest advantage; they can make a car’s frontal area smaller and, therefore, potentially improve a car’s fuel efficiency. When they’re shut anyway.Other advantages include the fact that a headlight hidden by a metal or plastic shield is less likely to be damaged by a flying rock or piece of road debris. Oh, and on the right make and model, cars with flip-up headlights could look super-cool. Not all cars, however, as some just never pulled it off style-wise.Disadvantages? Plenty. For a start, a pop-up headlight assembly is inevitably heavier than the headlight unit on its own. And by the time you’ve added the mechanism that opens and closes the pop-up aspect, and the wiring to operate it, there’s definitely a mass penalty to pay.They’re expensive to engineer and make, too. Anything that moves requires something to move it and in the case of a pop-up headlight, that’s usually an electric motor and a range of linkages and connections to make both lights emerge at the same time.In some cases, the pop-up party trick is achieved with hydraulics or even vacuum from the engine. The list of things that could go wrong was a pretty long one. Other cars used hydraulics. Same same.So why else did pop-up headlights go away? A couple of reasons, but mostly because carmakers figured out ways of making cars just as slippery aerodynamically without resorting to hiding the headlights.As our understanding of aerodynamics improved, it turns out small frontal area is not the only concern, and an overall aerodynamic pure shape is far more important.The concept of covering a headlight with a sleek Perspex or glass cover – something carmakers like Ferrari and Jaguar were using in the 1960s – re-emerged.Also, as lighting technology started to embrace physically smaller LED light units, there was less physical headlight to hide in the first place.Put simply, modern cars with LED lights don’t need pop-ups. Throw in the weight and cost penalty, and you can see why modern cars often don’t bother with this tech.Back in the day, the US carmakers were obsessed with pop-up headlights, although they weren’t always pop-ups (even if a lot were, like the C3 Corvette, to name one well known model).Instead, cars like various Lincolns and Cadillacs (and the 1968/69 dodge Charger of Dukes of Hazzard fame) used covers over the headlights.These covers retracted or folded away to expose the light, so it wasn’t a true pop-up light. It was also mainly for show as the idea of aerodynamic efficiency in a Cadillac the size of a small house never really entered into things.Plenty of Japanese cars embraced pop-up lights, too. For a while there, heaps of JDM cars had them, and makers like Mazda and Toyota were very keen on the concept. Nissan was in on the act at the same time, too, with various SX coupe models, the Z21 300ZX and even the tiny little EXA all pop-up headlight cars.In Europe, the trend caught on to, with notable examples being the BMW 8-Series (and the earlier M1, of course).Ferrari had a few models with this tech and even Porsche got in on it with the 924, 944 and 968 sporting pop-ups as well as the weird combination of a pop-up headlight that didn’t live behind a cover of any sort in the 928.Instead the 928’s lights laid back in their cubby holes, staring at the sky, until the driver switched on the lights, at which point the headlights rolled up into position like a pair of frog’s eyes.Pop-up lights are, to this day, one of the most memorable things about this generation of Japanese cars, and the MX-5 or Miata pop-up headlights continue to define the design in a visual sense.That means you don’t need to buy something exotic to get this groovy feature. In fact, there are plenty of cheap cars with pop up headlights now, just make sure they work properly as part of the inspection of any second-hand car for sale.Remember, too, old cars with technology like this won’t be affordable cars if anything serious goes wrong.In Australia, we didn’t escape the trend, either. The 1990s Ford Capri, designed primarily as an export to the North American market, had pop-ups, and so did the Holden VL Calais, in an attempt to differentiate it from the less expensive Commodore and Berlina models.Even then, the Calais wasn’t a standard pop-up system and, instead, left the lower half of the headlight glass exposed while using a lifting eyebrow to expose the full lens when the lights were switched on.Our favourite pop-up headlight car? Let’s hear it for the Opel GT, built between 1968 and 1973 and sold mainly in Europe. This looked like a scaled-down C3 Corvette, so the covered headlights looked right.But instead of a motor or hydraulics or vacuum opening them, the GT had a simple, mechanical linkage with a lever next to the centre console.When the driver yanked on that, the headlights didn’t pop-up, but instead rolled over through 180 degrees to reveal their lenses to the world. Brilliant.

You can thank/blame (take your pick) Scottish engineer James Watt for the confusing way we measure engine performance in cars. He was the person that came up with the bright idea of measuring power based on a horse.

What is a sedan vs SUVAn SUV or Sport Utility Vehicle is used to describe cars that have a higher ground clearance than their sedan cousins, can tackle a fire trail or more if it has AWD/4x4 capabilities and combines the space inside for more than three passengers. So, not a ute, even though these sometimes have 4x4 capability.A sedan or saloon, is a passenger vehicle that seats up to five people and features a long and enclosed boot that generally can’t be accessed easily from inside the cabin. The ground clearance is typically low (around 140mm) and it’s easy to spot their elongated shapes compared to hatchbacks or coupes.The popularity of the humble family sedan has fallen with the rise of the SUV but we’re going to see if there is a clear winner when it comes to on-road handling, comfort and practicality.The biggest advantage with an SUV is that more often than not they’re AWDs or 4X4s and can simply go places where a sedan can’t. SUVs also have more towing power. You typically can’t tow a big caravan with a sedan.However, the sleeker aerodynamics and lower ground clearances of a sedan often mean better fuel efficiency overall, especially if you opt for a hybrid model like the Hyundai i30 or Toyota Camry (3.9 – 4.0L/100km, respectively). With a hybrid powertrain you’re looking at less time at the bowser and a long driving range as well.It's harder for a large or upper-large SUV to be super sufficient and green-energy enthusiasts will balk at the V8 petrol engine found in the Nissan Patrol.While turbo-diesel models like the Toyota Prado offer better efficiency and driving range relative to their high-powered petrol cousins, they're still far off the efficiency of a hybrid sedan.The benefit of driving a sedan is its lower centre of gravity. Why? Because you get a more dynamic on-road experience compared to an SUV. There’s less roll in corners and more sure-footedness in winding roads when you’re taking them at speed.The benefit of an SUV's size means that its easy to see the road ahead and around you from your taller driving position. This comes in handy when you’re travelling at awkward times, like dawn or dusk and the light is poor quality. Being able to confidently see around you is a big advantage in this situation.Yes, this does mean there’s often more roll in cornering and you can feel like you’re driving a big lumbering bruiser (especially in some 4x4 models) when tackling hills but good visibility is a great advantage.Boot capacity. This one depends greatly on the SUV size as compact/small SUVs can have less boot capacity then mid-size to large sedans. Once you hit the mid-size SUV, where boot capacities sit above 550L, boot storage is far superior in an SUV for both capacity and access.In an SUV you have the height of the vehicle itself for the boot, rather than to the top of a boot lid like a sedan. SUV boot apertures tend to be wider and squarer as well, which makes it easier to slide large gear in and out.Individual storage. Most vehicles have a glove box and middle console. But’s it’s the other little cubbies which contribute to a cabin’s practicality. Especially, when you have kids around with all of the stuff they tend to attract.At the very least, every row of a sedan and SUV gets at least two drink holders though it’s often more. Some large SUVS, like the new Hyundai Santa Fe, have six cupholders in the middle row alone! SUVs are larger in size and that means you're able to stuff it full with more items.SUV vs sedan size - passengers. You can’t get a third row in a family sedan and that means you’re limited to a maximum of five occupants. In an SUV you can travel with up to eight occupants and while that will limit the boot capacity in an SUV, SUVs can tow a trailer for additional storage. Not having to take two cars to a destination cuts down fuel costs and overall wear and tear on your vehicle(s).The larger size of an SUV makes them a firm favourite with families, large or small. The option to go for a larger SUV that has a third row means you can accommodate your mini soccer team or simply have more boot space for your family of five when you visit Grandma at Christmas.Kid-friendly. Most of the time my kid favours the weeks I drive an SUV for two simple reasons.The first is his view. The window sills tend to be lower and the windows themselves larger, which means he gets to see everything he wants to see. Perfect for when you’re entertaining them with an I Spy-type game.The second reason is an SUV tends to feel more spacious for him with legroom and less like he is getting crammed behind the front passenger seat.When it comes to sedan vs SUV on-road comfort levels, an SUV often nudges out its smaller cousin. If you’re a family, not having kids and/or pets sitting on top of one another will minimise a lot of backseat squabbles (and parent headaches). Having the space to pop most of your gear in the boot, rather than footwells, also levels up the comfort.In terms of whether or not you’ll enjoy driving a sedan vs SUV for a long drive is entirely up to the vehicle you’re driving. There have been some sedans which leave SUVs in their dust when it comes to the driving pleasure (I’m looking at you Porsche Panamera) and there are some SUVs which absorb every bump in the road and you’re butt doesn’t get tired in the massaging wide seats (here’s to you Audi SQ7). This one is 100 per cent subjective.Not necessarily but an SUV's bulk affords it the most basic of protections against even the best sedan and that’s simply that there’s more of it.The most important takeaway when it comes to safety is to look at its ANCAP safety score, if it has one, and the safety equipment that comes with the variant you’re looking at. It's essential that an SUV offering a third row has curtain airbags that extend across all three rows.Not all maximum five-star scores are the same either. Look at the individual assessment scores and read the ANCAP report. When a vehicle received its ANCAP score is important, too, as each new year tends to bring new safety protocols.If you ever want to feel humbled, check out the crash-test dummy videos of the car itself but remember, no car is 100 per cent safe.So, do you go for a sedan or SUV? It depends on the size of the travelling troupe and age! For my family of three, a sedan is more than adequate for the daily drive and the odd road trip. For my parent's demographic, a sedan can be harsh on joints and access, so they've recently opted for SUVs.However, while I have a big soft spot for sedans… SUVs offer more options and practicality overall, especially for families or those who like to adventure!

Between towering import costs, dealer markups, and an archaic Luxury Car Tax (one still unmatched by a Luxury Boat Tax, Luxury Helicopter Tax or even Luxury Jewellery/Watch Tax), Australians have long shouldered some of the highest car prices in the world. Not for nothing to global brands laugh into their lobsters while referring to Australia as Treasure Island.