Nissan Dualis Problems

In conventional automatic transmissions, a delay when selecting gears (often reverse) indicates worn internals and the need for a rebuild. Your Nissan is fitted with a CVT transmission rather than a conventional auto, but it still operates on the basis of hydraulic control. Which means that the problem could still be one of internal wear. A transmission specialist is likely to be your best point of contact for this problem.

The first thing to do, though, is check the level of fluid in the transmission. A level that is low can mean delays when selecting gears and even slipping of the transmission under load. However, if the level is low, there must be a leak somewhere as these are sealed systems and should not require regular topping up.

Fixing this would involve disassembling the door from the inside (removing the door card) to reveal the workings inside. From there, you can assess whether the glass has jumped out of the rail that supports it at the bottom, or if there's some other problem with the mechanism.

If it’s the former, you’ll need to find out what adhesive is required to fix it back into place. A windscreen replacement specialist might be able to provide this information. A Nissan dealer may also have the correct product on the shelf.

Replacing the glass might be a bit fiddly as there's a lot of gear inside a modern car door, including the side-intrusion bars, the window winding mechanism and the metal parts of the actual door. Some patience may be required.

If the noise is a metallic rattling noise, then you might be on the right track here. But as well as the timing chain, it could also be the tensioner that keeps that timing chain tight at fault. The fact that the noise goes away after a few seconds suggests that the tensioner, rather than the chain, is at fault. But they could both be worn.

What’s happening is that the tensioner is hydraulically operated and needs engine oil pressure to do its job. When the engine has been sitting overnight, there’s a slight time delay between it starting and enough oil pressure reaching the tensioner to tighten the timing chain and stop the noise. What you’re hearing is the chain flailing around until the tensioner steps up and takes the slack out of it, at which point it stops rattling and goes silent.

Why doesn’t it happen every time you start the engine? Because the tensioner needs time for the oil to drain completely out of it. If the engine has only been stopped a short time, there’s sill enough oil in the tensioner for it to build up pressure quickly and keep things quiet.

Providing you have used the correct battery and have installed it correctly in the fob there shouldn’t be any problem. Go to a Nissan dealer or an auto locksmith and have them sort it for you

This sounds awfully like badly worn transmission. The Dualis in automatic form used what’s called a CVT. Instead of gears inside the transmission, the CVT has pulleys and metal belts that vary their relationship and, therefore, create the various 'gear ratios' the car needs.

When these pulleys and belts wear, they can start to make the noise you’re reporting. And, just like your car, it will get noisier as time passes. Unfortunately, you’re probably looking at a transmission overhaul or rebuild. If you continue to drive it as it is, you’ll almost certainly do more damage, although it sounds like the real damage is already done.

Take the car to a transmission specialist who will be able to accurately diagnose the noise and take it from there.

A car that continually breaks the same component time after time probably has a bigger problem than simply the part that keeps breaking. It sounds like you need to have the transmission and torque converter checked for alignment and correct interface. Any problem with the way they fit together could explain why an O-ring keeps failing. Continuing to replace the O-ring won’t fix a more complex problem.

Either that, or the mechanic who is changing the O-rings is making the same mistake over and over again and not using the correct lubrication or fitting procedure.

Nothing is unfixable. Presumably it was done while the Dualis was at the dealer being serviced, if so it is the dealer’s responsibility to fix it. If they can’t simply straighten it, they might have to replace the headrest, whatever it takes, it can be fixed.

That's a pretty impressive innings for a Dualis. You obviously maintain it well and drive it sensibly. The engine light on your dashboard is telling you that the car's on-board computer has noticed something isn't right and needs to be fixed or reset. This could be anything from a stretched timing chain to an oxygen sensor in the exhaust system or dozens of things in between.

The best approach is to have the car scanned to see what fault codes the computer throws up. From there, you'll have a much better idea of what the problem is.

The orange or yellow engine light means the car is still safe to drive, but you still need to have it looked at as soon as you can to avoid doing further damage to whatever system is not working properly. If the warning light (of any sort) is red, then you should stop driving as soon as it's safe to pull over and have the vehicle towed to a workshop.

If the problem occurred immediately after you replaced the carpet and seats, I’d say there’s a very good chance you’ve unclipped a wiring plug or connector to remove the interior, and failed to reconnect it afterwards. A lot of modern cars have airbags in the actual seat (the side airbag usually) and the wiring often runs under the seat.

The best move would be to remove the seats again and check for loose wiring or wiring or connectors that have been damaged of misplaced in the process of the interior’s removal. But before you touch anything under there, disconnect the car’s battery. That ensures you won’t have an accidental airbag deployment that could injure you while you’re working in that space.

Clutch life in most cars is determined by the type of driving you do and the type of driver you are. Cars that do a lot of urban running or towing will almost always have a shorter clutch life. Those used for highway journeys where the gears aren’t being changed as frequently tend to have longer clutch life.

But it’s also true that a driver who is gentle with the clutch and gearshift (as opposed to one who makes fast, hard changes) will also stretch the clutch’s lifespan.

I don’t think 100,000km out of a clutch is any reason to complain and suggests that you’re one of the gentle drivers out there. But before you commit to replacing the clutch, make sure that the slipping is not from poor clutch adjustment or oil on the clutch from a leaking engine seal, rather than a truly worn-out clutch. Of course, even if it is a worn oil seal (the rear-main seal is the most likely culprit) the gearbox and clutch must be removed to fix it, so a new clutch at 100,000km would be a good idea anyway to avoid having to remove all those components later for a clutch change.