Are you having problems with your 2015 Mitsubishi ASX? Let our team of motoring experts keep you up to date with all of the latest 2015 Mitsubishi ASX issues & faults. We have gathered all of the most frequently asked questions and problems relating to the 2015 Mitsubishi ASX in one spot to help you decide if it's a smart buy.
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Your problem may be related to a relay, but the usual cause of flickering DRLs and dashboard lighting (the LED type) is a faulty capacitor within the vehicle’s wiring loom. A faulty capacitor will deliver an unstable (fluctuating rather than steady) voltage to the LEDs and that’s what causes them to flicker.
Some owners choose to add an aftermarket section of wiring loom with a capacitor within it, but I’d first try to find the offending component in the car’s existing wiring and tackle the problem that way.
Unfortunately, your experience is not unusual but remember there would be a labour cost for the filter change. And rotating tyres is a good idea.
There's nothing to worry about with start-stop technology. It's been around for years and everybody has it. As for your choices, I'd put the CX-3 well ahead of the ASX and just in front of the HR-V but I wouldn't buy either. For me, a mid-level Mazda3 is bigger than the CX-3, has more power, more room and is better to drive.
The price is a little high; I wouldn’t pay any more than $15,000 for it. There’s no question about it doing 115 km a day, but at that rate the kilometres would quickly climb and you’d soon be in the danger zone where problems are more likely to occur. That’s where you would strike the problem of expensive parts, repairs and servicing. You would need an independent mechanic to look after it at a reasonable rate. Bluetooth was standard, but a reversing camera was optional. I wouldn’t recommend it. At $19,900 the ASX is a better buy.
Mitsubishi quotes a power output of 110kW at 3500rpm and torque of 360Nm at 1500rpm for that vehicle. All these figures – and plenty more - can be found within the Carsguide website by clicking on the prices and specs tab and entering the make, model and year.
Have the battery checked to see it is in peak condition, and also check the alternator to see that it is putting out what it is meant to be putting out.
The so-called "official" fuel consumption figures are the result of a laboratory test, they're not real life test results and not meant to be taken as such. Their purpose is to give you a basis to compare makes and models by providing fuel consumption figures resulting from tests done using the same consistent test procedure. Fuel consumption is very hard to pin down with any real accuracy because there are so many factors that affect the outcome, so it would be wrong to take a test result like the fuel consumption figures and assume that applies to all situations.
It’s amazing where rainwater will get to under the influence of a pressure difference between the inside and outside of the car, not to mention a 100km/h gale trying to blow everything inside the car. As such, you only need a tiny tear or crease in a door rubber for water to enter the car. And if it enters somewhere near the driver’s seat, that’s where it will stay when it hits the carpet.
Check the rubber seal in the door opening for any signs of damage or a small chunk missing. Even a piece of leaf debris stuck to the rubber can allow a gap big enough for water to enter. Make sure, too, that the door itself is properly aligned on its hinges and is making contact with the whole of the door rubber when it’s shut.