Holden Cruze Problems

If the car in question has the 1.8-litre engine, then this is definitely a known problem. Plenty of these engines suffered cracked cylinder heads which could allow the engine's oil and coolant to mix, producing the symptoms you saw. Holden actually issued a service program to replace the cylinder heads and other components to address the problem.

The other major cause of these symptoms is a failure of the transmission's cooling system. This actually piggy-backs on to the engine's cooling system (they use the same radiator) but if the transmission cooler fails, it can allow transmission fluid into the radiator and coolant into the transmission. Eventually, this will destroy the transmission both mechanically and electronically.

This particular error code denotes a lean running condition. That is, the engine either has too little fuel or too much air entering it. It's actually quite common on this engine and can be traced to several possible causes. Some of those include bad fuel injectors, a worn fuel pump, an intake vacuum leak, or – and this is where we'd look first on this engine – a bad PCV valve.

This valve is responsible for controlling the crankcase ventilation, but if it fails, it can allow the lean mixture condition to emerge which is when you'll get the error code and a check-engine light. The good news, is there's a quick and easy check if you know your way around an engine.

First, remove the plastic engine cover to reveal the rocker cover and the PCV valve. With the engine running, place a small piece of paper over the hole in the PCV valve. If the paper is drawn to the valve, you have a leaking PCV valve probably due to a broken diaphragm which is allowing extra air to enter the engine and create the lean mixture. If that doesn't work, make sure the oil cap is fitted tightly as a loose cap can cause the same problem. This certainly isn't the case for all engines, but experience has shown that in your car, it's a good place to start.

If the PCV valve theory doesn't work out, you're back to looking at things like fuel pressure, injector condition, intake tract leaks, a bad mass airflow meter or even a powertrain module fault.

The knocking noise could be anything from a poorly secured spare tyre to the struts that hold the boot or hatch in the raised position.

On the surface, the two bootlids look very much alike. In shape, they may well be identical, but there's a catch. In 2012, Holden switched from the fully-imported Cruze to a locally built version of the same car. Which means that the two versions were painted in completely different factories (different countries, in fact) and the chances of two blues or reds or even whites colour-matching exactly are pretty slim.

If you look at the locally made Cruze line-up, you'll also see that many of the colours were shared with the Holden Commodore range (built in the same factory). The other thing to consider is that the paint on these cars was never stellar quality, and a decade or so of varying UV radiation exposure might mean that even two bootlids that started out the same colour, may not be now.

Compare the two bootlids in strong sunlight to gauge whether the colours actually match before committing to the swap. That said, if you do manage to match two bootlids in an identical colour, it will be a lot cheaper than having one resprayed.

A cracked turbocharger intake pipe is a pretty common problem as this tubing has to withstand high temperatures and the force of the turbo’s boost. You really wouldn’t bother trying to fix this, and a replacement piece of tubing is the proper fix.

Just make sure you get the right piece of tubing as there are different pipes of different shapes that run between the turbocharger and intercooler, and the intercooler and the engine. It’s quite possible to change these yourself, but modern engine bays can be pretty tight and you might find it’s a fiddlier job than you imagined.

While you’re in there, check the condition of the clamps that secure the tubing, too. You may wish to replace them at the same time. I’ve seen replacement pipe kits for anywhere from $200 to $300 for this make and model. Online sellers are plentiful, but conventional parts stores should also be able to help you out.

The most problematic of the Cruze transmissions were the six-speed automatic fitted to Cruzes built between 2011 and 2013. Holden actually instituted a special repair program for owners of these cars and extended the warranty period on those that had been repaired under the terms of that program.

The 2015 car you’re looking at should not have these problems, but the Cruze itself was plague by a long list of other faults including oil and coolant leaks, overheating, cracked cylinder heads and more. To be fair, the later the build date, the less likely the problems were to occur, but any Cruze needs a careful, independent inspection before money changes hands.

The first conclusion many mechanics will arrive at is that the engine’s head gasket has blown, allowing the oil and coolant to mix. Have a look at the dipstick. If the engine oil is milky, then this is a very real possibility. Perhaps when the cylinder head was replaced, the gasket has not sealed properly.

But if the oil cooler was replaced because it was leaking into the radiator (which is pretty common) then you might find that the oil you’re still seeing is just residual oil from the previous failure, and not a problem at all. Even so, it would be wise to replace the coolant and flush the system to try to eradicate all traces of the old oil.

A workshop can perform a chemical-based test to see if the head gasket is leaking. It’s worth the relatively small cost to rule this out and begin to look elsewhere.

These little LED info-screens have been part of dashboards for years now, and they’re a known problem in many makes and models. There are specialist repairers who can either fix the screen you have or remove the dud one and fit a new one. Making sure the odometer still reads to car’s correct mileage is the trick.

Actually, that’s an important point, because a correctly working odometer is a roadworthy item. And one that flashes on and off randomly is definitely not working properly and is, therefore, making the car technically unroadworthy.

This shouldn’t be a difficult job and it’s a good task to ease yourself into maintaining your own vehicle. The simplest way to do this is to replace the entire blade and spine assembly. This will cost more than replacing just the rubber blade, but is very easy with just one catch to unclip (where the blade pivots on the wiper arm) before the whole assembly can be removed and replaced. You can google tutorial videos on this take which take you through the whole process. It should take only a couple of minutes.

If you’re really stumped by this, some parts stores offer a free fitting service for things like wiper blades. You may have to buy a new pair of blades to access this service, however. But if you watch the process and take note of how it works, you’ll be able to change your own blades in the future.

I’ll assume by 'in' you mean the fan that blows climate-controlled air into the cabin and not the fan that cools the radiator under the bonnet. Like anything else powered by an electric motor, these should be almost silent, although the sound of the actual air rushing through the trunking (heater plumbing) and out through the vents can usually be heard when the fan is running full blast.

The most common causes for this noise to change are a failed bearing in the motor which will also potentially affect its running speed, or something foreign caught in the fan’s blades (leaves and dross from parking under trees is a common cause of this).

Cleaning out the fan’s trunking and/or replacing the fan is the solution, but in some cases, this involves fairly major disassembly of the car’s dashboard and a huge labour bill.

The official oil recommendation for this vehicle is a fully synthetic 5W30 grade oil. If the engine is in good condition, this is the best oil to use. The X-factor in all of this, of course, is the relatively high mileage your car has covered. As engines wear, and perhaps begin to consume a bit more oil between oil-changes, the conventional wisdom has been to use a slightly thicker oil. A 10W40 would be the logical choice here.

But the turbocharged Cruze engine, like a lot of modern engines, uses some pretty fine oilways that may not be compatible with the thicker 10W40. Examples of this include the oilways that lubricate the turbocharger’s bearing and also the ones that allow the variable valve timing to operate properly. Unless the engine is showing real signs of wear, sticking with the 5W30 oil is definitely the best advice.