GWM Steed Pricing and Specs

The default purchase for somebody looking for a mid-sized hybrid SUV is the Toyota RAV4 Hybrid. But if that’s too big, there’s the Toyota Yaris Cross Hybrid, C-HR Hybrid and even the Corolla Cross Hybrid which sounds like the marketplace is getting crowded but is really just a reflection of the appetite right now for cars like these. And that’s the catch; the waiting times for a brand-new example of some of these cars is out to many months and even years. So your plan to shop second-hand makes plenty of sense, but don’t expect any bargains in a market currently being dominated by lots of demand and less supply.

Beyond the Toyota brand (which has been doing hybrids longer than just about anybody else) there’s also the Mazda CX-30, Subaru XV Hybrid, Haval Jolion Hybrid, Kia Niro, Subaru Forester Hybrid, Nissan Qashqai e-Power, MG HS, Honda HR-V e and more. For something a bit bigger, try the Kia Sorento or Hyundai Santa Fe hybrids. There are others out there, too, that are probably bigger or more expensive than you need, but it's very much a growing scene in the Australian marketplace.

The cost can vary depending on what state or territory you live in and in what post-code (regional areas often have lower registration fees than metropolitan areas). That said, according to the QLD Transport Department’s website, that doesn’t apply in the sunshine state.

As such, for a full 12 months of registration, including compulsory third-party insurance on a 2022 GWM Ute, you’re looking at $816.55.

This is a potentially lethal fault as anything amiss with a car’s braking system is a major recipe for disaster. It sounds as though the braking system is applying pressure when you hit the brake pedal, but not allowing the pressure to release when you take your foot off the brake.

If yours was an older car, I’d be suspecting the flexible brake hoses had collapsed internally, allowing the brake fluid to pass through them one way but not return. However, this seems unlikely in a car as new as the one you’ve described. Which leads me to think that perhaps the brake master cylinder is at fault or, perhaps the anti-lock braking system is the culprit as this system controls the flow of fluid to each caliper. Either way, it’s straight back to the dealership for a warranty claim, but I’d be taking the vehicle there on the back of a truck as it really doesn’t sound safe to drive as it is. Driving a car with binding or dragging brakes can very quickly overheat the brake fluid, leading to a complete brake failure with obvious potential results.

If you’re unhappy with the service from your dealership, I would suggest contacting the manufacturer’s customer service division and stating your case. I’d also be asking for a replacement car until yours is fixed.