Great Wall Steed Problems

The failure to load the sensors is probably a centralised computer problem, since it’s more than one sensor (it would be an amazing coincidence if three sensors died at once). Either the Bluetooth connection is iffy, or there’s a software problem with reading what the sensors are saying.

I’m unsure how Great Wall can call the tyre-pressure sensor monitoring system a consumable. Yes, things like brake pads, tyres and batteries are considered consumables and not covered by a new-car warranty, but the tyre pressure monitoring system should last the life of the vehicle and is an important safety feature. I’d be ignoring the dealer and talking directly to GWM’s Australian customer service department and asking the tough questions. Australian consumer law is pretty clear on matter such as this one.

One of the biggest criticisms of the 2017 Great Wall Steed was that it had Isofix restraint anchor points in the seat bases, but no legal top-tether anchoring points at the top of the seat. As such, the vehicle was unsuitable for carrying children of child-restraint age with safety body ANCAP stating the vehicle was “not suitable for transporting young children”. This was a major reason the vehicle scored just two out of five safety stars from ANCAP.

It’s possible to retrofit top-tether points, but, because of the consequences of getting this wrong, the changes would have to be approved by a consulting engineer and signed off by the Tasmanian state registration authorities.

In modern vehicles, there are usually two oil warning lights. The first – an orange or yellow light - is to alert you that the oil level in the sump is becoming too low. This is easily fixed by stopping and topping up the engine oil. Provided you do it promptly and don’t ignore it, you shouldn’t do any permanent damage.

The second light is a red one and indicates that your engine has insufficient oil pressure to lubricate the moving parts. Sometimes, when this light shows, it’s already too late and permanent damage will have been done. But if you do see the oil-pressure warning light, drive to the nearest safe place to stop and switch off the engine as soon as possible. The vehicle will then need to be towed to a workshop to be checked out.

If you stopped the engine early enough, you might be able to repair the cause of the low oil pressure. But in many cases, it’s all over and done by the time the light flickers on, and you may need a replacement or reconditioned engine.

Engine longevity is closely linked to how well maintained it’s been. As such, there’s no definitive lifespan for a specific make and model. An engine that has been treated well and maintained correctly will easily outlast the same make and model engine that has been driven hard and missed critical servicing and upkeep.

That said, 260,000km seems like a lot of kilometres for this vehicle. Which is not to suggest it’s necessarily ready to explode, rather that you’d have to know for sure it was a pampered car with an impeccable service record for it to be a reasonable bet. But a gamble of some sort it would definitely be.

A problem like this is all but impossible to diagnose remotely. There are literally hundreds of reasons why this could be happening, and simply guessing at an answer and replacing that part randomly is not the way to proceed. The fact that no fault codes have shown up Is a puzzle, too. Don’t forget, though, that there’s probably a second fuse-box somewhere inside the vehicle as well as the one under the bonnet that you’ve already checked.

I’m not sure about the flashing anti-theft light. Sometimes these flash constantly whenever the car is locked as a message to would-be thieves that there’s an alarm system fitted. That said, the problem could be something to do with the immobiliser system which would stop the vehicle in its tracks if it thought the car was being started by somebody without the correct key fob.

The bottom line, of course, is that this vehicle – provided it’s been serviced correctly – is still under Great Wall’s factory five-year/150,000km warranty which was introduced back in 2019. So make it Great Wall’s problem.

The light-bulb symbol is trying to tell you that you have a globe that has blown. But if that’s the case, the symbol should be lit the whole time, not just when you apply the brakes. I’d suspect a short-circuit of some kind, but I’d start with checking all the car’s earths. A bad earth can cause all sorts of random electrical mayhem to occur, including false alarms of the warning lights. That said, if the car has a blown head-light, try changing that to see if the warning symbol goes away for good.

An auto electrician might be your best bet if the problem continues. Chances are, a good auto sparkie will have seen this very problem many times before.

Believe it or not, Steven, this is not a fault with the vehicle at all and something it’s actually designed to do. The theory is that by automatically swinging the exterior mirrors close into the car when parked, there’s less chance of a passing car or truck smashing the mirror.

This technology has its origins in Europe where roads are narrow and parking is a bit more relaxed than it is in Australia. Even so, it’s no bad thing to have happen when you leave the car unattended.

So, while there will be a fuse that controls this circuit, our advice is to leave it alone and let the mirrors do their thing. Replacing an exterior mirror on a late-model car is never cheap. As long as the mirrors fold out to their normal position each time you start the car, there’s absolutely nothing wrong with your Great Wall.

It’s possible that your car has a windscreen that was manufactured with this defect. In some cases, automotive glass can either be manufactured with a lamination fault or can delaminate sometime after that due to a variety of factors.

It could also be that you’re dealing with a windscreen that has been damaged by flying debris. This can be caused when the vehicle is transported from the docks or warehouse to a dealership on the back of a truck. If the debris was the right size, it could virtually `sand-blast’ the windscreen, leading to the problem you’re seeing in particular lighting conditions. You might have noticed cars being transported by truck where the new vehicle at the front of the semi-trailer will have its glass taped over. This is why.

The first step is to have a windscreen specialist look at the vehicle to determine what the problem is. If it’s a manufacturing or transporting fault, you should be covered by the vehicle’s new-car warranty.

If you mean that the engine refuses to be turned over either by the starter motor or by physically pushing the vehicle in gear and then letting out the clutch, then there’s potentially something seriously wrong. As in a seized engine. Has it been overheated? Has it been run without oil? Both those things can seize an engine to the point where it is locked solid.

You stand to do more damage by persisting with this, so the smart move would be to present the vehicle at a Great Wall dealership as your Steed is still well and truly covered by the five-year factory warranty (assuming it has a complete service record and hasn’t travelled more than 150,000km. I can see that you’re from the Northern Territory, so perhaps the nearest dealership is a long way away, but if the drivetrain doesn’t want to turn at all, then a dealer is the solution.

If, however, you mean that the engine won’t fire up (but is physically turning over) even after push-starting the vehicle, then the problem might not be so catastrophic. A modern engine needs the correct input signal from literally dozens of sensors before it will run properly (or at all), and if you have a single dud sensor, that could produce the no-start condition you’re seeing.

But here’s the first thing to try: Turn the ignition on and listen for the faint buzzing sound of the electric fuel pump. If you can’t hear it, chances are the pump has failed. It’s very common and one of the typical ways fuel-injected vehicles cease to function. Even so, in a vehicle so young, involving the Great Wall dealership network should be your first step.

The most likely answer is that the body computer on your car has a problem. This computer is the one that links all the various functions (and the driveline) to each other, including cruise-control, the instrumentation, lighting, power-windows and, of course, the central-locking.

If the problem is deep within the computer’s circuit-board, you may need to swap it for a new one. But before you spend any money, try this: Close all the doors and then hold the lock button down on the remote. Hold it for at least 30 seconds and then see if the central-locking is behaving. If that fails, try disconnecting the battery and leaving the car for at least an hour. What you’re trying to do is manually force the body computer to re-set itself. This process doesn’t work with all cars, but it does on some and who knows, you might just be lucky.