Ford Ranger Engine Problems

Every all-new MY21 Isuzu D-Max and select current versions of the Amarok and Ranger offer a 3500kg towing capacity maximum - namely all Amarok V6 autos and all Rangers EXCEPT the 4x2 XL Single Cab Chassis Low-Rider 2.2 Diesel at the bottom of the Ford range, and the 4x4 Raptor Double Cab Pick-Up 2.0L Diesel at the very top (they're both 2500kg).

Least torquey is the D-Max at 450Nm, followed by the Ranger (2.2L 4-cyl: 385Nm, 3.2L 5-cyl: 470Nm and 2.0L twin-turbo 4-cyl: 500Nm) and Amarok (550Nm to 580Nm), meaning the Amarok will probably be the least challenged towing a 2.8-tonne caravan. But all three should suffice.

Please note, however, that Gross Combined Mass (GCM) tallies means that there are other weight factors that need to be considered before safely towing a 2.8-tonne caravan, even with a 3500kg ute. These include things like the ute's payload, heavy bull bars, sports bars and side steps, canopies and even the number of people travelling inside. And of course, a fully-equipped and laden caravan can easily exceed the stated tare mass.

We hope this helps.   

A number of owners seem to be having troubles that relate to the so-called Smart charging system. The system is designed to keep the battery charged to a sufficient level to keep the car going, but as you say there is little reserve and that can result in a flat battery. It’s also important when fitting accessories to the vehicle that connected in a way that allows the ECU to identify that there is greater draw on the system and the alternator needs to work harder. Ford can disable the system for you if that’s what you prefer, and lots of owners are doing that.

It sounds very much like a computer problem rather than a hardware issue. When you switch the engine off and then back on again, you’re actually rebooting the on-board computer. I’d be trying a replacement ECU module (borrowed from another Ranger) to see if that fixes the problem. The problem is that because the reboot fixes the issue (temporarily) it might also re-set the computer’s memory, meaning it can’t `remember’ what went wrong and, therefore, won’t offer up the correct fault codes when you scan it. That said, I’d definitely give it a scan and see what pops up.

Changing the oil in a T6-generation Ford Ranger is no different to changing the oil in any other late model car, whether you have a petrol or diesel engine. If you have never worked on a car yourself before, I'd stress that you would be better off taking the car to a qualified mechanic or dealership to get this job done to avoid the risk of injury to yourself, or damaging the engine of your car. The benefit of getting a mechanic to change your oil is they can check the rest of the car over and let you know about any upcoming issues they spot.

It could well be a sensor problem, but actually pinning it down when it only happens intermittently is difficult and there might not be anything obviously at fault when the dealer checks the car. There’s no simple answer, except to keep on trying to fix it.

It could be the either the turbocharger or the injector pump at fault here. But equally, it could be an intake system blocked with oil and soot residue, a clogged exhaust system, worn or blocked fuel-injectors, a dirty air-filter, poor fuel quality. It could even be a dud sensor somewhere on the engine or even an electronic fault within the on-board computer. It might even be an engine that has worn out internals.

The first thing I’d do is interrogate the on-board computer to see if it offers up any fault codes that could be used to diagnose the problem. From there, it’s down to checking the mechanical stuff like the condition of the turbocharger (particularly its bearing) and even performing a leak-down and compression test to get an idea of the condition of the engine.

If you've never worked on a car yourself, the best way to change the oil in your Ranger is to take it to a qualified mechanic. The oil is the lifeblood of your engine and putting too much or too little in your motor can destroy it, costing thousands to fix. This is on top of the safety aspect of crawling around under your car and working with hot oil that can easily scald you if it splashes on you.

It is quite difficult to make a petrol T6 Ranger faster without spending a lot of money. Diesel Rangers (2.2-litre and 3.2-litre), however, have a large range of options, starting with improving the tune in the ECU to optimise the air:fuel ratio (normally 25% increases in power and torque, and 10% improvement in fuel economy), and blocking the EGT system. After that you'll find excellent gains by upgrading the air intake, exhaust and intercooler system (with a new tune to suit the modified parts). After those modifications you're getting pretty wild with turbo and fuel system upgrades. Be mindful to check with your local department of transport to see if these modifications are legal before commencing any work.

If it is a major engine issue then, yes, it is a concern, and you could approach Ford for some assistance with the cost of repairs. If it turns out that it’s a relatively minor problem, then it’s not something to be overly concerned about. At this point all you can do is work with the people trying to find the cause.

So, going by your description, the engine has only just started before the vehicle rolls downhill to the first intersection. So the engine has only been running for a few seconds, and then only at idle. It’s possible that the transmission pump hasn’t had time to build up enough pressure to fill the accumulators to eliminate any slack in the shifting clutches and bands. Which could, on the odd occasion, produce a clunk when you hit the throttle for the first time on a cold transmission.

Honestly, though, this is a problem you see more in older cars with worn transmissions, and I wouldn’t expect it from a 2019 Ranger.

But let me ask you a question: Is the vehicle lifted on its suspension? Many Ranger owners opt to raise their cars for greater off-road performance, but this changes the angle of the driveshaft and can cause precisely the shudder you’ve described. The fix is to fit a spacer between the car’s body and the centre-bearing of the driveshaft. That corrects the angle of the driveshaft and stops the shudders.