Are you having problems with your Ford? Let our team of motoring experts keep you up to date with all of the latest Ford issues & faults. We have gathered all of the most frequently asked questions and problems relating to the Ford in one spot to help you decide if it's a smart buy.
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There's no real reason to disconnect your battery when recharging it as long as the ignition is off when you do it.
Because it's too much on either fuel the problem is not related to one fuel system or the other. I would be having the oxygen sensor checked, it's the one that determines the mixture going into the engine and it would seem the engine is running too rich.
It doesn’t sound like a problem with the gas system, sounds more like it needs a service.
I doubt it’s the tyres that are the problem; I would be looking at the car itself for the problem. Start by having it wheel aligned, and while you’re at it just check that it is tracking straight. Is it possible that it had been crashed before you bought it?
All models, petrol and LPG, are fitted with a trip computer/multi-function display that has a range function to show you the distance to empty along with visual and audible warnings as you approach empty. The info is contained in you owner’s manual.
You should be getting around 13-14.0 l/100 km in town and 9-10.0 L/ 100 km on a trip, so clearly all is not well. The first thing to do is to ensure the spark plugs, leads, air filter, throttle body are all functioning correctly, and replace them if it's suspected they're not. Have the dealer check the exhaust back pressure, catalytic converter and oxygen sensors to make sure isn't running unduly rich or have a restricted exhaust. Look at your driving conditions, for instance, do you mainly do short runs around Ballarat that might not allow the engine to warm-up properly.
Intermittent problems can be very hard to diagnose because they rarely happen when the mechanic is present. Same with the diagnostic checks, nothing will show up if the engine is running normally when the checks are done. I would be checking the various engine sensors, their connectors and the witting loom, looking for a corroded or poor connection.
Yes, that is a good reason to stick with the dealer, as it’s most unlikely that those upgrades and “fixes” would have been done by a non-factory service outlet.
You don't say who replaced the coil in the first instance, but when it showed up as a problem again soon after I would have first checked that the coil had been replaced. Next, I would have asked for a diagnosis of the problem that pointed to a problem with the number four-cylinder before I had them pull the engine down. If you want to pursue the issue get an itemized copy of the invoice and have a trusted mechanic go over it and give you an opinion on the charges. Armed with that information you could then think about going to your state consumer affairs people for their help.
You can use regular unleaded or the E10 ethanol blend. Swap meets are good places to find things like owner's manuals, and you could also try e-bay.