Articles by Marcus Craft

Sometimes a new car’s price puts it out of reach of a potential buyer, or that buyer is simply at a stage in their life where a second-hand vehicle is a better fit for them.What are used cars?A used car (aka a second-hand or pre-owned car) is simply a car that is not new. It has been previously used and owned and is then resold through a car dealership, via a private seller, or an online marketplace (such as Gumtree Cars).Do they tend to be more prone to problems?Not necessarily but, by their very nature, they have been used before, so they’ve been subjected to wear and tear, as well as the previous owner’s (or owners’) good or bad maintenance habits – and, of course, used cars are older than new cars.However, new cars may also trouble their owners with myriad common car problems and are even sometimes subject to recalls over faults or car issues that only come to light after that new vehicle has been on sale and out in the real world for some time.The good news is consistent maintenance, vehicle awareness and car troubleshooting should help you to prevent any common problems in used carsHere are 10 common problem areas in used cars and we’ll work our way from the tyres up.Note if the vehicle in question is an AWD or 4WD, chances are it has been put through a tremendous amount of stress and strain on tough terrain, so it deserves even closer scrutiny before you even think about purchasing it.Tyres are your vehicle’s first – and hopefully only – point of contact with the ground, so your tyres should be in great condition with plenty of tread depth, no cracks in the tyre’s surface, and no uneven wear and tear.What are the signs of this problem?When you notice uneven tyre wear, damage (cuts or splits) or, worse, changes in the car’s on-road dynamics while you’re driving, for instance steering pulling in one direction, or high-speed vibrations, it’s time to get your tyres checked out by a pro because tyre strife is no joke.How can you avoid this problem?Regularly check tyre condition for wear and tear, always run tyres at the manufacturer recommended pressure (refer to the tyre placard in the vehicle or the driver’s manual), and have the tyres rotated (about every 5000-8000km) and balanced, and the wheels correctly aligned. Also, replace tyres if they are 10 years old or more – a tyre’s date of manufacture is stamped on its sidewall.If the brakes on a car aren’t working properly, then the issue can range from mildly annoying (best-case scenario) to dangerous (worst-case scenario). Faulty/damaged/worn-out brake pads, rotors, or callipers may lead to poor braking efficacy (i.e. longer braking distances, brakes that are slow to bite etc) and so increase the risk of an accident, minor or otherwise.What are the signs of this problem?When you notice any unusual noises from the brakes when you do brake (such as high-pitched screeching), or obvious poor performance (i.e. longer braking distances, brakes are slow to bite or bite with a jerky on-off action etc) or even a brake warning light coming on. The culprit may be the brake pads, rotors or callipers.How can you avoid this problem?Unfortunately, this is one of the common car problems but it can be remedied with diligent maintenance. Undertake regular maintenance (according to guidelines in the vehicle owner’s manual) and regularly check the condition of all of your brake pads.If there are odd noises coming from the brakes, your best bet is to tackle the issue as soon as you aware of it – don’t let it become any worse than it already is.There’s no harm in having a look yourself but, by all means, get a pro to address the problem if you’re more comfortable with that.Have the brake pads and rotors checked and, if they’re too worn, get them replaced. While the mechanic is there, have them check for leaks, drain the brake fluid and replace, and, if needed, bleed the brake fluid.Any issue with the vehicle’s suspension is the next thing to watch out for and you’ll quickly recognise if there is something wrong because the car may ride and handle like a mechanical bull – well, not quite that bad but you get the idea.What are the signs of this problem?Suspension strife – worn-out or damaged shocks, struts etc. – will result in a choppy wayward ride and poor on-road handling with impacted steering.There may be noises coming from some part of your suspension set-up and your tyres may be wearing out unevenly and faster than they should.How can you avoid this problem?Regular maintenance, in accordance with guidelines in the owner’s manual, and being sure to check all suspension components, will hopefully pick up any potential issues before they become serious.When there is an issue, there’s no harm in having a look yourself but, by all means, get a pro to address the problem if you’re more comfortable with that.Have the shocks, struts and entire set-up scrutinised, and have any worn-out or damaged components replaced. If it’s an AWD or 4WD, it may have been punished in off-road situations and will need extra attention to avoid any issues down the track.The exhaust system gets rid of your car’s emissions and any problem with it quickly becomes obvious.What are the signs of this problem?Rust may be the culprit here, or loose exhaust pipes, or a leaking exhaust manifold (often indicated by a ticking or tapping noise in the engine, an illuminated ‘check engine’ icon, and a strong exhaust smell).Any strife with the exhaust system may result in poor fuel efficiency and – warn your neighbours! – a too-loud exhaust note.How can you avoid this problem?Regular maintenance, in accordance with the recommendations in the owner’s manual.Make sure you check all exhaust components when you’re scrutinising a car and hopefully that will pick up any potential issues before they become serious.To fix this problem, you’ll have to replace any rusted, damaged or broken parts, any loose sections of the exhaust will have to be tightened, and the leaking exhaust manifold will have to be sorted out.Any issues with your electrical system – lights, indicators, brake lights, power windows etc – should be addressed as soon as possible.What are the signs of this problem?Electrical problems may manifest as headlights (or other lights) that work only intermittently or not at all, power windows that don’t work properly, or interior lights that are faulty.A blown or faulty fuse, damaged or old wiring, or even a battery issue may be the cause of an electrical system malfunction.How can you avoid this problem?Regular maintenance, according to guidelines in the owner’s manual, will reduce the chances of minor issues becoming major issues.Conduct a full inspection of the electrical system (including wiring), replace any blown or faulty fuses, and check the battery and replace if required.A faulty cooling system could result in an overheating engine, which may become even more serious engine strife and lead to damage to – or even failure of – other components in your car.What are the signs of this problem?Some indications of a cooling system problem include that aforementioned overheating engine, the engine temperature gauge rising to a high level quickly, or an obvious coolant leak.Potential causes may include a split or clogged coolant hose, a leaking radiator, or a faulty water pump.How can you avoid this problem?Regular maintenance, according to guidelines in the owner’s manual, will reduce the chances of any minor issues becoming major issues. Pay attention: if the coolant system warning light/icon is illuminated on your dash driver display, then address the issue immediately – check coolant levels and the radiator and hoses.Potential fixes include flushing the cooling system, and replacing the radiator.Any strife in the fuel system – which consists of fuel filter, pump, injectors (or carburettor if the car is very old), and, of course, tank – means fuel delivery to the engine is compromised and, as a result, the car’s overall performance will suffer.What are the signs of this problem?If the car exhibits any of these signs – rough-as-guts idling, lacklustre acceleration, engine misfires, loss of power at high revs, and/or reduced fuel efficiency – then it’s a strong indication something is amiss in the fuel system.The cause? It could be anything from a clogged, old or even incorrect fuel filter, or pump; carbon deposits in the fuel delivery set-up, poor quality fuel (beware the dirty go-juice!) or something else.How can you avoid this problem? Regular maintenance, according to guidelines in the owner’s manual, will reduce the chances of any minor issues becoming major issues.Check fuel lines, and the fuel filter, pump and replace as necessary. Clean clogged injectors or get a pro to take a look if you want a second opinion and have those replaced if needed.Engine oil is a lubricant designed to reduce damaging friction created in the inner workings of an internal-combustion engine. Without enough clean engine oil, mechanical parts wear out faster than they would otherwise.An oil leak can signal a minor problem which has the potential to become a major problem if you don’t crash-tackle it at the source as soon as possible.What are the signs of this problem?Some indications that oil is leaking from the car: a puddle of oil on your driveway, low oil level, and/or engine overheating.Oil leaks may be caused by too-low oil levels, worn-out gaskets and seals, or faulty oil filters or other components.How can you avoid this problem?Regular maintenance is key. Pay attention to the condition of all oil-related components and fix leaks immediately to avoid minor issues becoming major issues.Always use the correct type of oil (read the owner’s manual) and replace any faulty parts as soon as possible.Get a professional to take a look if you want a second opinion.A fault in a manual transmission (a gearbox) or in an automatic transmission, if left unchecked, may result in costly repairs down the track so it’s best to address any transmission issues as soon as humanly possible.What are the signs of this problem?There may be clunking or grinding noises emanating from the gearbox or it may slip out of gear, strong burning smells (transmission is overheating, low fluid level), obvious leaks (worn-out seals or gaskets), and/or the ‘check engine’ light comes on.How can you avoid this problem?Regular maintenance, according to guidelines in the owner’s manual, will reduce the chances of any minor issues becoming major issues.Maintain correct transmission fluid level (refill or change as needed), check for transmission leaks and consult a mechanic if repairs or replacements parts are needed.Overview of this problem and what it entailsProblems with steering in a used car – or, for that matter, any car – is a serious safety issue.What are the signs of this problem?Steering strife is obvious from the get-go:Any trouble with turning the steering wheel (potential cause: power-steering fluid leak somewhere in the steering set-up)Vibrations through the steering wheel (potential cause: possible contaminant build-in the power-steering system)Steering pulls to one side (potential cause: worn-out steering gear, lack of power-steering fluid)Loose-feeling steering wheel (potential cause: worn-out steering rack, tie rod)Steering wheel slips when you turn it (potential cause: pump issue, worn-out steering rack mount, or worn or loose power-steering drive belt)Grinding noises when you turn the steering wheel (probable cause: steering gear problem)Screeching noise when you turn the steering wheel (possible cause: loose or worn-out power-steering drive belt or low power-steering fluid level)How can you avoid this problem?Conducting a bit of car troubleshooting and regular maintenance, according to guidelines in the owner’s manual, will reduce the chances of any common problems in used cars becoming major problems.Regularly check the power steering fluid level, steering pump, hoses and steering rack. Note if the power steering fluid is foaming or discoloured, there may be air or water in the system, so it’s not doing its job properly and should be replaced.

When looking for a used car to buy, one of the first and most crucial aspects of your search should be how to check if a car has been in an accident.

The second-hand 4WD market in Australia is a busy one, we are spoilt for choice.Among this confusion of potential next cars for you are a few duds/lemons/write-offs but there are also a fair number of good value-for-money buys to be found.Here are our top five used 4WDs, including a big V8 wagon, a retro champion, and one or two picks which might even get me even more hate mail.For the purpose of this yarn, we’ve mostly only considered vehicles manufactured in the past decade – those that have benefited from recent advancements in driver-assist and safety technology.Is your 4x4 on the list?As always, tell us what else you think should make the cut in the comments below.Much-loved by 4WD die-hards, the distinctively blocky 80 Series ’Cruiser achieved legendary status years ago.The naturally-aspirated 1HZ diesel is a top choice – many have been turbocharged – and the 1FZ-FE, 4.5-litre, in-line petrol engine, introduced in early 1993, has proven durable.The four basic 80 Series range encompasses: FJ80R - petrol 3F engine; HZJ80R - diesel 1HZ engine; HDJ80R - turbo-diesel 1HD-T engine; and FZJ80R - twin-cam petrol engine. There are ample white ones around, with a smattering of hotted-up matte black versions as well.The best used 80 Series buys are in the base-model area. ‘Standard’ 80s came with the 75 Series driveline, using a part-time 4WD system and a choice of the 3F petrol engine or 1HZ, naturally-aspirated diesel. The 3F gave way to the 1FZ-FE fuel-injected twin-cam in late 1992.Most standard models are diesels, but those that have the petrol engine use a carburetted version, which is a much more flexible unit than the fuel-injected 3F-E used in the GXL and VX models.You'll find some 80s with still-working factory-fitted cruise control and a few with aftermarket jobs onboard.You'll also find plenty of 80s geared up for bush driving, with a bullbar, snorkel, bash plate (offering solid underbody protection), as well as rated recovery points, and any number of other accessories including mud-ready floor mats.Automatic transmission models had a torque converter and viscous coupling centre differential; both of which did much to damp out any engine torque curve ‘wobbles’, along with the considerable driveline lash which was another unpleasant side effect of Toyota's full-time 4WD system.The full-time 4WD RV, GXL and VX models are better balanced on loose or slippery roads, but have more driveline backlash than the part-timer and need a front bearing repack more often, because the front axle is driving all the time.The automatic models (like the vehicle pictured) are nicer to drive than the manuals, but the auto sump is vulnerable to copping knocks from rocks on bush tracks and needs additional bash-plate protection.Factory-fitted front and rear differential locks were optional from 1993.The standard Japanese Grandtrek tyres were terrible on slippery tracks and vulnerable to damage, but the working vehicle models, with part-time 4WD, skinny tyres and firmer coils handled well on and off road.Suspension upgrades – aftermarket lift kits etc – have always been popular 80 additions for improved off-road driving.Towing capacity was 2500kg on the 90-95 models, then increased to 3500kg on the 80 Series after that. Tow-ready 80 Series had a tow bar.(Note: the 80 Series pictured in this yarn – is a 1996 GXL with a 24-valve 6-cylinder 1HD-FT turbo-diesel engine and automatic transmission. It has a 270-litre fuel tank – a long-range fuel tank set-up – and a 30-litre water tank. The standard version had a 90-litre fuel tank and a 45-litre fuel tank.)The diesels need their camshaft drive belts replaced at 100,000 kilometres and both have expensive oil and fuel filters.The 1FZ-FE, 4.5-litre, in-line petrol engine, introduced in early 1993, was as durable as Toyota promised it would be, but servicing costs are elevated by high filter prices.Engines converted to run on LPG seem to live without any drama, but Toyota actively discouraged the practice.Gearbox problems included a pre-1993 major issue which was a crunching, vibrating manual gearbox – it was bad enough to cause Toyota to change its advertising message, dropping the reference to “vibration-free". In 1992 a redesigned manual transmission cured most gearbox complaints.Minor problems with early 80s include a clutch accumulator which leaked and can be best repaired by replacing it with the later model unit.Automatic transmission problems are infrequent as far as we know.The turbo-diesel suffered from big-end problems that were fixed only by service outlets that had access to a full range of over- and under-sized bearing shells. (If you’re buying a factory turbo-diesel 80 Series with the 1HD-T engine make sure the bottom end has been professionally rebuilt.)Toyota continued to support the turbo-diesel, finally replacing the 1HD-T with the properly engineered 24-valve 1HD-FT in March 1995, along with a facelift and revised interior.If the 80 has any aftermarket gear on it, as always check everything, get a mechanic mate to give the vehicle a thorough going-over, and get a vehicle history report.Prices range from around $20,000 to $60,000, depending on how well the vehicle has been maintained and just how obsessed a LandCruiser fan you are. Prices do not include on-road costs.(Note: Some years ago I commissioned a mate of mine, 4WDing legend Allan Whiting, to write a yarn about the 80 Series for this website – Allan’s work has been used as the basis for this entry.)Australian automotive engineering company Premcar was given free rein to transform the Patrol into something better, as part of Nissan Australia’s Warrior program, and this is the result.The Patrol Warrior is bigger, wider and taller than the Ti spec Patrol on which it’s based and it has upgraded Aussie-tuned suspension, a Warrior-specific wheel-and-tyre package, a bi-modal exhaust system, tough-as-nails underbody protection, a 48kg increase in payload over the Ti (to 736kg), among many other enhancements.The Nissan Patrol Warrior is an eight-seat 4WD wagon with more than $15,000 worth of crucial conversion work, engineering upgrades and fitment of adventure-ready accessories brought onboard to turn the Patrol into a Warrior.The Warrior has the Patrol line-up’s 5.6-litre V8 petrol engine – producing 298kW at 5800rpm and 560Nm at 4000rpm – and a seven-speed automatic transmission.It has full-time four-wheel drive with high- and low-range modes.At its Patrol heart the Warrior has all the solid reliable four-wheel drive mechanicals, plenty of torque over a wide rev range and a rear diff lock.Warrior-specific suspension modifications include Warrior-tuned 'Hydraulic Body Motion Control' suspension (front and rear), front Warrior red springs, rear Warrior multi-rate red springs, Warrior rear bump-stop, a bash-plate and more.The Warrior wheel-and-tyre package is the Yokohama Geolandar 15 All Terrain tyres (295/70R18) on 18 x 9 J cast-aluminium Patrol Warrior black machined-face alloy wheels. These tyres are bigger and offer more grip, so they provide the Warrior with plenty of traction on terrain where a standard Patrol may struggle.There's more ground clearance in the Warrior (323mm, +50mm over the Ti), so approach (40 degrees) and departure angles (23.3 degrees) are an improvement over the standard Patrol.Ramp-over angle is not listed, neither is wading depth but I reckon the latter is about 700mm.The Patrol is a well-respected towing platform and the Warrior’s towing capacities remain as 750kg (unbraked) and 3500kg (braked).The Warrior's GVM (gross vehicle mass) at 3620kg is 120kg more than the Ti Patrol’s.Chances are the Warrior hasn’t been used for any four-wheel driving beyond well-maintained bush tracks but, just in case, when checking out the vehicle in person, make sure you look under the vehicle to check if it hasn’t copped any serious knocks, bumps or scuffs to the undercarriage or side steps – that may be an indication of other more serious damage that is not visible. If you’re in Queensland, where beach-driving is much more accessible than it is elsewhere, check for rust, sand or salt spray residue.Don’t buy a V8-powered vehicle if you baulk at big fuel bills. The Nissan Patrol Warrior has an official fuel consumption figure of 14.4L/100km (on a combined cycle).On a recent test, I recorded 23.2L/100km but I did a lot of high- and low-range 4WDing.The Patrol has a 140L fuel tank capacity, so, using our on-test consumption figure you could reasonably expect a full-tank driving range of about 603km.If the Warrior has any other aftermarket gear on it, make sure that equipment hasn’t caused any warranty-related issues, check everything, get a mechanic mate to give the vehicle a thorough going-over, and get a vehicle-history report.Prices range from approximately $95,000 to $120,000. Prices do not include on-road costs.The Sport is available as a 4WD wagon with a 3.0-litre turbo-diesel V6 engine or as a rear-wheel drive wagon with Ford’s 2.0-litre four-cylinder bi-turbo – both have a 10-speed automatic transmission. (Pictured is a Sport with the V6 engine and selectable 4WD with auto mode.)It has a 3.0-litre turbo-diesel V6 (producing 184kW at 3250rpm and 600Nm from 1750rpm-2250rpm) and a 10-speed automatic transmission.It has a 4WD system with selectable two-wheel drive (2H), four-wheel drive high-range (4H), four-wheel drive low-range (4L) and four-wheel drive automatic (4A = 4Auto) that sends drive to the front and rear axles as needed, and which can be used on high-traction surfaces.It also has a locking rear diff.The Everest has selectable drive modes including Normal, Eco, Tow Haul, Slippery, and for off-roading: Mud/Ruts, and Sand, which adjust engine outputs, throttle, transmission, braking, traction and stability controls to best suit the driving conditions.This Everest is a very impressive off-roader: the engine is torquey, with plenty of its 600Nm on top across a wide rev range.The 10-speed auto transmission is clever – most of the previous-gen’s scrambling between ratios has been ironed out.The Everest has a listed length of 4914mm (with a 2900mm wheelbase), a width of 2015mm, and a height of 1837mm. It has a turning circle of 11.8m and an official kerb weight is 2457kg. So this is not a small wagon.And its dimensions prevent the Everest from being an absolute off-road beast. It feels low – even though official ground clearance is listed as 226mm – and its underbelly feels vulnerable.Approach angle is 30.2 degrees, departure angle is 25 degrees, and ramp break-over is 21.9 degrees, but remember that if you fit a towbar to the rear that will impact the Everest’s departure angle. Wading depth is 800mm.Another thing: the brake pedals feel spongy – taking a long time between initial foot pressure to actually 'biting', and then the brakes – discs all round – quite abruptly clamp into action.Official fuel consumption for the Everest V6 is 8.5L/100km on a combined cycle; on my test I recorded 15.7L/100km.The Everest has a 80-litre tank, so, going by the above figures, you will have a touring distance (spent mostly in low-range 4WD) of about 510km.Ford has offered the Everest with choice of three ARB Builds – Family Adventurer, Tourer, and Serious Off-roader. Each one includes a specific set of aftermarket accessories (covering protection, suspension, lighting and more) and were fitted, at the new owner’s request, prior to collection.The builds are covered by Ford’s five-year/unlimited km warranty.However, if the Sport you’re considering has any one of those builds onboard, make sure you check the vehicle thoroughly for any damage and, of course, order a vehicle history report. Chances are this vehicle may have never been used off-road – or it may have been subject to a terrible barrage of 4WDing-related punishment. It’s up to you to check.As standard, the Sport came with 20-inch alloy wheels with Goodyear Wrangler Territory HTs (255/55R20) – not ideal for off-roading. Ford was offering offer 18-inch black alloys on All-Terrain tyres as a no-cost option at time of purchase, but if the second-hand Sport you’re considering to buy is shod with other, more off-road-appropriate tyres and is on 18-, 17-inch or even 16-inch rims, then make sure you check for damage – slight or otherwise – on the front and rear bumper, side steps, underbody, everywhere because this vehicle may have been used for more serious off-roading than merely well-maintained bush tracks.There is some uncertainty as to how well the Everest’s transmission holds up under the sustained pressure of heavy towing.Also, I have been privy to negative chatter – online and around campfires – about Ford’s after-sales service.A niggle: the e-Shifter in 4WD Everests is an annoying toggle/rocker-switch.As always, if the vehicle has any other aftermarket gear on it, make sure that equipment hasn’t caused any warranty-related issues, check everything, get a mechanic mate to give the vehicle a thorough going-over, and get a vehicle-history report.Prices range from $67,000 to $87,000. Prices do not include on-road costs.It looks like a block of wood on wheels but the LandCruiser Troop Carrier’s 4WD heritage is undisputed and its status as a solid bush-tourer is further enhanced by Toyota's reputation for reliability – whether justified or not.The Troopie's popularity remains heavily reliant on its bush cred – but it has that rep for a reason: this is a go-anywhere country work truck or remote-area touring vehicle.It offers its owner very little comfort, driver-assist technology or mod cons – you’ve been warned – but the Troopie does deliver no-nonsense, no-compromise off-road capability.The 2019 Troopie is available in an entry-level two-seater WorkMate spec or top-spec five-seat GXL (pictured).It has a 4.5-litre turbo-diesel V8 engine – producing 151kW at 3400rpm and 430Nm at 1200-3200rpm – and that is matched to a five-speed manual gearbox.It has a part-time 4WD system with high and low range and front and rear diff locks as standard.The GXL Troopie gets 16-inch steel wheels, rather than alloys.It's a very basic interior, sure, but it's a durable and supremely functional cabin with plenty of hard-wearing surfaces, cloth and plastic.Don't go looking for Apple CarPlay or Android Auto – it's not here, unless a previous owner has dropped it in as an aftermarket system.The tall and boxy Troopie is 5220mm long (with a 2980mm wheelbase), 1790mm wide and 2115mm high. It weighs 2325kg.The Troopie is more than a tad unwieldy in any cityscape, a bit awkward to manoeuvre on suburban streets but, of course, much better when you get it out in the bush.Driver position is high and commanding, visibility is great all-round and that V8 offers up plenty of responsiveness when you make demands of it.Steering is vague, it exhibits pronounced body-roll on sharper corners, and the brake pedal action is spongy. However, if you forgive it those characteristics, and more, which I am, then you're in for an enjoyable drive.It's a bit more relaxed on an open road – when you can nudge into its tall fifth gear and get going – although its block-like shape tends to catch high winds and the wash from passing big rigs as a yacht's sail would.It’s a very capable 4WD. It's tall and square (so is easy to fill with camping gear, work equipment, your kids and dogs), it has a tough interior, and it has a robust drivetrain and 4WD system.The Troopie – with its live axles, coils at the front and leaf springs at the rear – will never feel like a sports car. It's noisy and no matter how refined Toyota claims to have made the V8 and its five-speed manual gearbox, it will always feel gruff and agricultural – and cough up more wind-rush roar over the big wing mirrors – compared to everything else.The Troopie's low-range gearing is so very low that it's able to crawl up the steepest of driveable inclines with no difficulty – even those criss-crossed by deep ruts. Generally, 4WD Low first gear is enough to get the Troopie up anything.With a wading depth of 700mm and 235mm ground clearance, enough to clear most submerged obstacles, this Toyota was never fazed during any water crossings. It has a snorkel as standard.Its standard 16-inch skinny tyres – Bridgestone Dueler A/Ts (225/95R16) – aren't ideal for bush-touring so get rid of those for some you'd be more likely to find all over the place.Towing capacity is 750kg (unbraked) and 3500kg (braked). It has a 975kg payload, a GVM of 3330kg and a GCM of 6800kg.Claimed fuel consumption is 10.7L/100km (combined). On my most recent test I recorded 11.1L/100km. It has a 180-litre tank, so, going by the above figure, you could reasonably expect a touring distance of about 1620km from a full tank.Note, the TroopCarrier does not have an ANCAP safety rating because it has not been tested.Even though it is a natural born off-roader, its bulk sometimes works against: the long wheelbase can prove to be a burden through deeply rutted hills or inclines/declines lumpy with sharply angled rocks or pitted by steep-sided potholes.Check thoroughly for damage to the underbody, and front, sides and rear.As always, if the vehicle has any aftermarket gear on it, make sure that equipment hasn’t caused any warranty-related issues, check everything, get a mechanic mate to give the vehicle a thorough going-over, and get a vehicle-history report.Prices range from $75,000 To $83,000 – another case of “Toyota tax”. Prices do not include on-road costs.The top-spec seven-seat GSR is a solid value-for-money all-rounder and a very capable off-road vehicle.The Pajero Sport has a 2.4-litre, four-cylinder, turbo-diesel engine, which produces 133kW at 3500rpm and 430Nm at 2500rpm, and it has an eight-speed automatic transmission.This is not a dynamic combination, but although it is sluggish, the Pajero Sport is reasonable on-road and it’s very nimble off-road.The GSR has Mitsubishi’s Super Select II 4WD system and a rear diff lock. One of the advantages of Super Select II 4WD is that fact you’re able to drive this vehicle in ‘4H' (4WD high range) without any risk of transmission wind-up because the centre diff is not locked. This factor adds an extra element of safety and sure-footedness to your driving experience.The GSR has a button-operated off-road mode system – with Gravel, Mud/Snow, Sand or Rock settings, each of which tweaks engine output, transmission settings and traction control to best suit the terrain – and hill descent control.The GSR has selectable off-road modes, including Gravel, Sand, Mud/Snow (when in high-range 4WD) and Rock (when in low-range 4WD). Each of these modes adjusts engine output, transmission settings and traction control to best suit the terrain.The Pajero Sport is 4825 millimetres long with a 2800mm wheelbase. It is 1815mm wide, 1835mm high and it has a listed kerb weight of 2125kg.In terms of packability, the cabin is quite narrow compared to many of its rivals and there are plenty of other SUVs and 4WD wagons around that offer more room inside for people, gear and dogs – but overall this is a functional space, even if it feels a bit dated.As standard it’s riding on Toyo Open Country A32 all-terrain tyres (265/60R18 110H) but it would perform even better with more aggressive rubber.Wheel travel is okay, ground clearance (218mm) is reasonable, although you still have to mind your driving line through rough terrain and be mindful of approach (30 degrees), departure (24.2) and ramp-over (23.1) angles. Wading depth is listed as 700mm.Official fuel consumption for the Pajero Sport GSR is 8.0L/100km on a combined cycle.Its real-world fuel figure on this test, from pump to pump, was 9.6L/100km.The Pajero Sport has a 68-litre tank, so, with that sort of fuel-consumption figure, you can reasonably expect a driving range of approximately 680km from a full tank, but that’s after having already factored in a safe-distance buffer of 30km.The Pajero Sport is noteworthy because it is covered by a 10-year/200,000 kilometre new car warranty, (whichever occurs first and when all scheduled services are completed at a Mitsubishi dealership), 10 years of capped price servicing, and four years of roadside assistance, provided the previous owner has stuck to the conditions of said warranty.Chances are the Pajero Sport hasn’t been used for anything more challenging than rain-slick bitumen, well-maintained bush tracks in national parks, or gravel back roads but, just in case, when checking out the vehicle in person, make sure you look under the vehicle to check that it hasn’t sustained any damage to the underbody or side steps – that may be an indication of other more serious damage that is not visible. If you’re in Queensland, where beach-driving is a right not a privilege, check for rust, sand or salt spray residue.As always, if it has any aftermarket gear on it, make sure that gear hasn’t caused any warranty-related issues, check everything, get a mechanic mate to give it a thorough going-over, and get a vehicle-history report.Prices range from $42,000 through to $70,000, depending on the grade. Prices do not include on-road costs.

US pick-ups are all the rage in Australia and with a full-sized Toyota Tundra a fresh arrival, fans of these big utes are about to be even more spoiled for choice.

The New Vehicle Efficiency Standard (NVES) applies to new cars sold in the Australian market and is aimed at keeping Australia on track to achieve net zero emissions by 2050, so said the Federal Government.NVES rules came into effect on January 1 this year but the accumulation of units and penalties won’t start until July 1 this year.Carmarkers are already rethinking their line-ups in order to meet the NVES guidelines, with Ford ditching some of its 4x2 variants of the Everest and Isuzu rumoured to be deleting some 4x2 variants from its MU-X range.The upcoming Kia Tasman will have a 2.2-litre four-cylinder turbo-diesel engine and the likelihood Isuzu and Mazda will replace any of their 3.0-litre ute offerings with a smaller 2.2-litre unit to save on emissions and avoid any NVES-related strife, are we about to say “hoo-roo” to V6 utes?Read on.They may not elicit the same heart-thumping excitement as a V6 or V8, smaller engines have for a long time now proven their worth in utes. They’re refined, fuel efficient, and produce more than adequate amounts of power and torque to be able to haul a load, tow a caravan, horse float or power boat, and go off-road.Throw in impressive high- and low-range gearing, seamless driver-assist tech, a well-calibrated traction control system, and diff locks, and utes with small engines onboard, rather than being outgunned by V6s, are setting the gold standard for effectiveness in tough environments and being able to meet strict new emissions laws.Utes with smaller engines have been around for donkey’s years, but the new-ish wave of them – including the Isuzu D-Max’s 2.2-litre four-cylinder turbo-diesel (120kW/400Nm) and the Toyota HiLux’s 2.8-litre four-cylinder turbo-diesel (150kW/500Nm) with mild-hybrid technology – look poised to ensure V6 utes are consigned to the history books.The new Isuzu engine is 10kW/50Nm better then the brand’s 1.9-litre engine (110kW/350Nm) but 20kW/50Nm down on the 3.0-litre unit it is set to replace – no big deal though because those lesser power and torque aren’t deal-breakers for most. Besides, its 120kW/400Nm outputs match those of the GWM Ute (120kW/400Nm) and put it right in the mix with the Jac T9 (120kW/410Nm) and KGM Ssangyong Musso (133kW/400-420Nm).The HiLux’s 2.8-litre set-up doesn’t seem to have hampered its appeal with fans of Australian utes, certainly not in terms of sales.What’s more, the much-loved LandCruiser 79 Series benefits from its 2.8L four-cylinder turbo-diesel engine (150kW/500Nm), which produces plenty of low-down torque. Add in a 44:1 crawl ratio and, depending on the spec, front and rear diff locks, and this 79 is near-unstoppable off-road.Don’t forget the even newer wave of utes either.Beyond its polarising looks, the Kia Tasman already has tongues a-wagging – not the least because of its 2.2-litre four-cylinder turbo-diesel engine (154kW and 441Nm), that’s equivalent to the Ford Ranger’s 2.0-litre bi-turbo (154kW/500Nm) in terms of power but 59Nm of torque less.Word is the Tasman will be able to tow the ute industry standard of 3500kg (braked) and will likely have a payload of 1000kg or over, depending on the variant. So, nothing to sniff at there.The Tasman is due to be launched in Australia later this year and is tipped to be, if not a game-changer, a ute that will help move the crowd forward into a hopefully less-polluted future.And how about hybrids?The BYD Shark 6 plug-in hybrid ute – a first for Australia – has a 1.5-litre four-cylinder turbo petrol engine with dual electric motors: a 170kW/310Nm front motor and a 150kW/340Nm rear motor (total: 320kW/650Nm).This BYD ute has a claimed driving range of 100km (electric only), and about 850km (hybrid).The Shark has a listed payload of 850kg and braked towing capacity of 2500kg. It doesn’t have the 1000kg payload or 3500kg market-standard towing capacity of non-hybrid utes, but it can still take on a weighty load and clock up big distances before it needs to be refuelled/recharged.In terms of robustness over time, it’s largely unproven as yet – because it hasn’t been on the market long enough for anyone to make an informed judgement. On paper at least, the Shark 6 has plenty of potential to give the ute realm a healthy nudge into the future as part of a new wave of utes equipped with smaller engines, hybrid systems and new technologies aimed at improving performance and efficiencies and reducing emissions.

The new-generation Mitsubishi Triton range marks the biggest change for the model in a long time: a new bi-turbo engine (150kW/470Nm), new chassis and suspension, overhauled design (with a longer wheelbase), and increased towing capacity, among a raft of changes.The new mid-grade GLX-R sports a few extras beyond what the lower-spec vehicles get - most importantly, Super Select 4WD-II.

With hybrid SUVs, such as the Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV, and utes, such as the BYD Shark 6, already here, and with more petrol-electric-powered vehicles on the way, like the BYD Fang Cheng Bao 5 (aka Denza B5, recently spotted testing in Australia), are petrol-electric hybrids set to relegate traditional ICE 4WDs into the dusty annals of history?Read on.A plug-in hybrid 4WD — one in which the electric motor runs the show until its battery is depleted enough that the internal-combustion engine kicks in as back-up — offers an effective compromise between helping to reduce the volume of climate change-induced woes our planet is being forced to suffer and still being able to get to and from your favourite campsite.Sure, it’s an all-wheel drive and best suited to light-duty off-roading, but the Mitsubishi Outlander PHEV is a great example of a well-executed hybrid that is already here and well worth a look.This mid-size SUV has a 2.4-litre four-cylinder petrol engine (producing 98kW at 5000rpm and 195Nm at 4300rpm), an electric motor on the front and rear axles, and a lithium-ion battery pack with a total capacity of 20kWh. Combined output (engine and electric motors) is 185kW and 450Nm and this PHEV’s electric-only driving range is listed as 84km on a full charge.It has a single-speed transmission and drive modes in this vehicle include Eco, Normal, Power, Tarmac, Gravel, Snow and Mud.This Outlander has three power-use modes: EV Mode (“perfect for low to medium speeds in urban areas”, according to Mitsubishi), Series Hybrid Mode (“when accelerating or climbing hills, the hybrid petrol engine can be used to generate additional power while the vehicle runs on motor power”), and Parallel Hybrid Mode (“for high-speed driving such as overtaking vehicles on the highway, the vehicle runs on engine power while being assisted by the electric motor”).The PHEV’s EV-only driving range is a listed 84km but my most recent test vehicle (a GSR-spec Outlander) used most of its battery power on a 110km highway trip. Regenerative braking regained very little of that used power and the Outlander switched to rely on petrol for the remaining 30km or so of that trip.It has a single-speed transmission and drive modes include Eco, Normal, Power, Tarmac, Gravel, Snow and Mud, which all tweak engine, electric motor, and transmission to suit the selected mode.This Outlander is pleasant on sealed surfaces And it’s comfortable and capable off-road as well — as long as you stick within the parameters of the kind of “off-road” terrain an AWD SUV is built to cope with: well-maintained gravel roads and dirt tracks with minor corrugations in dry conditions or, at worst, rain-puddled blacktop.The Outlander has off-road measures that are fine for a city-focussed vehicle: 18.3 (degrees approach angle), 22.2 degrees (departure), 18 degrees (ramp breakover), and 203mm of ground clearance (unladen).It’s nimble in the bush (because steering is sharp), visibility is satisfactory all-round, and it settles well on gravel and dirt tracks at speed, only skipping around on rougher sections, due to its firm suspension and road tyres.You can switch drives modes to Gravel, Snow or Mud to best suit the terrain, however, the Outlander’s lack of ground clearance, road-biased tyres and 20-inch wheels, impact its capability.But, this is still a handy dirt-road tourer, yielding comfortable and controlled ride and handling, as well as an overall refined driving experience, only ever becoming rattled when the road or track surface becomes very chopped up and bumpy.The Outlander’s Super-All Wheel Control (S-AWC) system deserves a fair amount of credit. This electric-powered traction control system manages torque application so it is instantaneous, he system cuts power to the wheel that has little grip and sends drive to the wheel with the most grip, and delivers that drive with impressive levels of throttle control and an even-handed management of power.Payload is listed as 605kg, towing capacity is 750kg (unbraked) and 1600kg (braked). GVM is 2750kg and GCM is 4350kg.My most recently tested example, the Mitsubishi Outlander GSR PHEV, has a listed fuel consumption of 1.5L/100km on a combined cycle but, as with all official fuel figures from any carmaker, you can take it with a grain of salt.On my most recent test, dash-indicated fuel consumption was 5.8L/100km; actual fuel consumption, as measured from pump to pump, was 7.7L/100km.Dash-indicated power usage was 20.8kWh/100km. This PHEV gobbled through most of its 20kWh battery capacity quite swiftly on the drive from the vehicle pick-up point in Sydney to our test start-point just over 100km away. It recouped 10km electric driving range via regenerative braking on a series of long downhills when set to ‘Charge’ driving mode (with the combustion engine generating power to the battery), but I had to cycle through regen modes to optimise that power regain.The dash-indicated combined driving range (battery and engine) was 748km on a full charge and a full 56-litre tank.Note: off-roading places a heavier burden on any vehicle – combustion, hybrid, EV – so battery capacity in a PHEV will be depleted faster and more fuel will be used than on sealed surfaces.Another intriguing hybrid already here is the BYD Shark 6 ute. This first for Australia – a plug-in hybrid ute – presents a strong case, in terms of performance and potential.It has a 1.5-litre four-cylinder turbo petrol engine with dual electric motors: a 170kW/310Nm front motor and a 150kw/340Nm rear motor (total: 320kW and 650Nm).This BYD ute has a claimed driving range of 100km (electric only), and approximately 850km (hybrid).That’s a decent stretch of driving and worth noting because a plug-in hybrid doesn’t burden its driver with the crippling range anxiety that troubles some EV drivers.The Shark has a listed payload of 850kg and braked towing capacity of 2500kg. It doesn’t have the 1000kg payload or 3500kg market-standard towing capacity of non-hybrid utes, but it can still take on a considerable burden and clock up big distances before it needs to be refuelled/recharged, which is more than anyone can reasonably expect from any current EV.The good news is there are more hybrid 4WDs to come that, on paper at least, also have the potential to be decent off-roaders.Most noteworthy for now is the Shark 6’s stablemate, the Denza B5. As a a plug-in hybrid 4WD with a ladder-frame chassis and BYD’s Dual-Motor Intelligence technology onboard, the Denza B5 has a similar powertrain and platform set-up to the Shark 6.The B5 has a 1.5-litre four-cylinder petrol engine with twin electric motors (one at each axle) producing a very impressive 500kW and 760Nm.Bolstering its expected capability off-road, the B5 has that aforementioned ladder-frame chassis, three diff locks, 18-inch BFGoodrich all-terrain tyres and the brand's Intelligent Hydraulic Body Control System. Similar in principle to other existing systems in other vehicles – for example, onboard the Nissan Patrol – this set-up is claimed to tighten on-road for more dynamic on-road driving and loosen off-road for more wheel articulation – but it is also claimed to be able to independently raise wheel heights by up to 200mm.In other good news for those who want plenty of driving range out of their touring 4WD, the B5 has a 31.4kWh battery – bigger than that of a standard hybrid – and that’s tipped to yield a 120km electric driving range. All up though – with a full fuel tank and fully charged battery – this Chinese-made 4WD should offer a total driving range of more than 1000km.So, it’s obvious the 4WD realm is rapidly changing and the future is a world in which there are more well-engineered and off-road-capable PHEVs on the road and on bush tracks.

The Ford Ranger was the best-selling vehicle in the country for the second consecutive year in 2024.And now there’s another Ford ute on the horizon that looks set to shake up the ute market in Australia.Due on sale here in 2026, the Ford Ranger Super Duty has been touted as a mid-sized ute with “next-level, work-ready capability”, according to Ford.Purpose built for those with harsh job requirements, including emergency service operators, farmers, utilities and forestry workers, miners and infrastructure technicians, the Super Duty will have a 4500kg braked towing capacity, a 4500kg gross vehicle mass (GVM) and an 8000kg gross combined mass (GCM) rating.Let’s take a deep dive into everything we know so far about the Ford Ranger Super Duty.Read on.The Ford Ranger Super Duty is a mid-sized ute intended to be capable of tackling extremely tough work duties that no other standard mid-sized ute is capable of doing straight out of the factory.Details and specs remain somewhat sketchy, but the Super Duty will be, according to Ford, a new ute that's engineered from scratch for heavy-duty applications. It will also be the first mid-size ute to carry the Super Duty badge in Australia.Ford reckons its Super Duty project is a direct response to Aussie customers who want a gung-ho ute capable of hauling big loads, but in a vehicle size that is easier to manoeuvre than a bigger US-style pick-up.The new Ford Ranger Super Duty is intended as a heavy-duty work vehicle for emergency service operators, farmers, utilities and forestry workers, miners and infrastructure technicians, as well as having lots of potential as a recreational 4WD touring vehicle and towing platform due to its “enhanced off-road capability”, so sayeth Ford.The factory-built Ford Ranger Super Duty is covered by a full Ford warranty, and has been designed, developed and engineered in Australia by a 1500-strong crew.Recent testing has been conducted in Australia.If its claimed GVM (4500kg), GCM (8000kg) and towing capacity (4500kg) turn out to be accurate, then the Super Duty is going to be a bloody beast on work sites everywhere, for lugging loads, and for weekend wanderers who want to tow boats, horse floats and the like.For quick reference, in comparison, the Ford Ranger XLT turbo-diesel V6 4x4 has a listed GVM of 3280kg, a GCM of 6400kg and maximum braked towing capacity of 3500kg, and Ford’s long-wheelbase F-150 pick-up or truck offers lower GWM (3265kg) and GCM (7315kg), but equals the Super Duty’s 4500kg braked towing capacity.In terms of styling, the Ford Ranger Super Duty will have new wheels, wider arches than a standard Ranger, an all-new grille design, replete with a new off-road-style front bumper, as well as substantial underbody protection.There are no details about what powertrain the Super Duty will get, but perhaps the Ranger’s 3.0-litre V6 turbo-diesel engine (184kW at 3250rpm and 600Nm from 1750-2250rpm), along with the line-up’s 10-speed automatic transmission, will be a good fit. A power and torque boost may even be on the cards, in order for the Super Duty to handle the much-touted heavier loads it may be burdened with.Australia’s Super Duty will likely sport the eight-stud, 18-inch steel wheel and 33-inch all-terrain tyre package of the US Ford F-250 Super Duty.Also, it could be in line to share the Raptor's wheel track, which is 50mm wider than the standard Ranger.No word on suspension yet, but upfront it may be fitted with new front control arms (similar to the Raptor’s cast-alloy units), and it will likely have a leaf-sprung rear axle rather than Raptor-esque coils, as the Super Duty is a vehicle intended for load-carrying and towing.It may also have job-specific accessories such as push-button Pro Trailer Hitch Assist, Trailer Navigation (aimed at ensuring your vehicle and trailer go via a route that the combination will be able to physically travel through) and even on-board scales.The Ford Ranger Super Duty – or Ford Super Duty Ranger as some have dubbed it – will be manufactured at the same Thai facility as most made-for-Australia Rangers.The Ford Ranger Super Duty is expected to be unveiled sometime later this year and is tipped to be on sale here in 2026.An all-new ute sporting major hardware upgrades, resulting in impressively uprated payload and tow ratings, being sold in a ute-hungry market? Name your price…At time of writing, there were no clear indications of what the Ford Ranger Super Duty’s eventual price-tag would be, but expect to pay upwards of $75,000.It will be bigger and built more robustly for heavier duties than those undertaken by standard Rangers.And it will likely be in a price range comparable to the Raptor.Keep reading CarsGuide.com.au to stay up to date with news on all upcoming vehicle releases, including the Ford Ranger Super Duty, which is due to be launched here in 2026.

The Toyota Fortuner has been available in Australia for a decade but has never got anywhere near hitting the sales heights of the HiLux on which it's based.With a new Fortuner possibly due in the not-too-distant future, it's worth revisiting the seven-seat Fortuner to see how this ageing 4WD wagon stands up against in a realm dominated by fresher, more sophisticated rivals.

Where to put L plates on a car in Australia?L plates must be displayed on the front and rear of a vehicle in a way that is easily visible for other drivers.Some states/territories insist that your L plates must be positioned on the outside of the vehicle, but some are okay if your L plates are inside the vehicle, as long as they are clearly visible to other drivers from the front or rear.Here’s a state by state/territory breakdown of where to put L plates on a car so you abide by the law and you avoid copping a fine.ACT Policing states: “‘L’ plates must be displayed on the front and rear of a vehicle in a way that is easily visible for other drivers.“Plates should be the correct size and colour and the letter on the plate should be fully visible.Where to display L plates? “It’s important to select the most visible display option for your vehicle,” ACT Policing said. Good spots are on an external panel at the front and rear of the vehicle or fastened to the registration plate, without obscuring that plate at all and ensuring that the ‘L’ on the learner plate is completely visible.So, can you put L plates in the window? “You can use plates specifically designed for display in the front or rear windscreen," ACT Policing said.“However, a slanted windscreen is not suitable for displaying plates as the plate will face up, towards the sky, and won’t be easily visible to other drivers from the front and rear."How to put L plates on a car? Where to put L sticker on car?“Other options, such as magnetic plates, plate display brackets and plate clips are also available to drivers,” ACT Policing said.The ACT Road Rules Handbook clarifies the “easily visible” description by stating: “‘L’ plates are not clearly visible if they are placed, for example, behind wiper arms, behind rear louvres or inside tinted windows.”In the ACT a “Fail to display ‘L’ plates on car as required” offence may attract a $208 fine, but no demerit points.Where to put L plates? Transport NSW states: “You must clearly display your L plates on the front and back of the outside of your vehicle – the letters must not be hidden.”The NSW government expands on that explanation, by stating: “When driving, learners must display L plates clearly on the front and back of the car.“The plates must be on the outside, or there must be an L sign on the roof.“The letter L on the plate must not be hidden.“So your plates do not fall off, secure them with a clip or holder.”In NSW a “Fail to display ‘L’ plates on car as required” attracts a $272 fine and two demerit points.How to display L plates? “L plates [150mm by 150mm and consisting of a black letter ‘L’ against a yellow background) must be clearly displayed on the front and back of the vehicle.Northern Territory Police Force said: “The L plates must be easily seen by other road users and must not block or obscure the driver’s view.“It is recommended that L plates are displayed vertically on the vehicle — not facing upwards on the bonnet or boot. Brackets for mounting L plates next to the number plate can be purchased at most automotive supply stores.“Roof-mounted L plates do not replace the L plates that must be displayed at the front and rear of the vehicle.“Where an L plate is displayed in the window of the vehicle, make sure that the angle of the window, any tinting or louvers on the window or anything on the outside of the vehicle (like spoilers or items in the tray of a ute) do not obscure other road users’ clear view of the L plate.“If towing a trailer, an L plate must also be displayed on the back of the trailer.” (Note: In the NT, you’re allowed to tow while on a class C learner licence. You may not be legally allowed to do so in other states or the ACT, so check before you tow.)In the NT, if you’re a “Learner driver or rider without L plates” then you may cop a $100 fine and two demerit points.Where to put L plates in Qld? The Queensland government doesn’t mince words about this issue.It states: “You must display L plates so the letter 'L' on each plate can be seen clearly at the front and rear of the vehicle (rear only for motorcycles) from 20m away.“The minimum size and colour of an L plate is 14.6cm x 14.6cm, with a black uppercase letter 'L' on a yellow background. You can't use any other colour.”It goes on to state: “You and your supervisor may both be fined if your L plates are not correctly displayed.“As the learner driver, you will get two demerit points recorded on your traffic history. If you get four or more demerit points in a 12-month period, you will be suspended from driving for three months.”In Queensland if you commit the following offence – “Learner licence holder failing to display L plates clearly legible at front and rear of vehicle” – then you face a $258 fine and two demerit points.Helpfully, there is a L plate template (https://www.publications.qld.gov.au/dataset/l-plate-template) so you can print two full-colour L plates, laminate them, and attach those to your vehicle.Road rules in South Australia around learner driver permit conditions and laws are similar to those in other states/territories.It states: “You must display the prescribed L-plates so that they are clearly visible from the front and the rear of the vehicle (rear only for motorcycles).“Driving with a learner's permit means you need L-plates on the vehicle so drivers know you are an inexperienced driver. L-plates must meet the following requirements:“The minimum size is shown here . L-plates must have the letter L printed in black on a yellow background.“L-plates must be clearly visible from the front and rear of the vehicle (rear only for motorbikes).”In SA, if you’re the holder of a Learner’s permit and commit the following offence – “driving a car on road while plates are not correctly affixed to the car” – then you are liable for a $248 fine (if you have only L plate affixed to the vehicle), or $428 fine and two demerit points if you have no L plates affixed to the vehicle.Among the many sensible rules for those learning to drive, the Tasmanian government states that as a learner licence holder, “you must ensure your L plates can be seen from the front and back of your car”.Tasmanian Vehicle and Traffic (Driver Licensing and Vehicle Registration) Regulations 2021 states: “A person must not drive a motor vehicle on a public street under the authority of a learner licence unless a sign issued or authorised by the Registrar displaying the letter "L" in black lettering on a yellow background (an L-plate) is displayed so as to be clearly visible:– (a) in the case of a motor cycle, at the rear of the motor cycle; or– (b) in the case of any other motor vehicle, from the front and rear of the motor vehicle or, if the motor vehicle is towing a trailer and the trailer would obscure the visibility of the letter displayed at the rear of the motor vehicle, from the front of the motor vehicle and from the rear of the trailer.“Penalty: Fine not exceeding 5 penalty units.”In Tasmania, if you’re the holder of a learner licence and, as a “novice driver” or as a “learner driver”, you commit the following offence – “fail to display clearly visible L-plates as required” – you may face a $101 fine and two demerit points.Where to put L plates on your car in Victoria? Transport Victoria is absolutely clear about this: “Attach your L or P plates to your front and back windscreens.“You should use L or P plates that attach to external parts of your car (other than your front and back windscreens) if: your windows are so tinted it’s hard to see the plate (or) you’re worried you might damage the demister lines on your back windscreen.“Your plates must be visible from at least 20 metres away, on the front and back of your vehicle.“If you don't do this, you could be fined.”That fine for (offence code 2112) “Fail to display 'L' plates when and as required” amounts to one demerit point and a $165 fine (correct at time of writing).WA’s Department of Transport (DOT) states that the holder of a learner’s permit must display the “appropriate” L plates on the front and back of the vehicle when they are driving and those plates must be clearly visible.So, what is an “appropriate” L plate? “Each L plate must measure not less than 150 mm by 150 mm and bear a black letter “L” clearly marked on a yellow background,” according to WA legislation.If towing (learner drivers in WA are allowed to tow a trailer as long as they abide by the conditions of their learner permit), the learner driver must ensure that the L plates are fully visible at the front and back of the vehicle, which may require one plate being positioned on, and correctly affixed to, the rear of whatever is being towed.Demerit points apply to learner drivers in WA and they may not have any more than three demerit points recorded against them or their learner’s permit will be suspended or disqualified.Failure to properly display L plates on a vehicle in WA may result in two demerit points for the learner driver.Note: All details (laws, conditions, penalties etc) are correct at time of writing. This feature is not intended as legal advice. Make sure you check with the relevant roads authority in your state or territory for up-to-date details.