Articles by Graham Smith

In recent times the carmaker has had a more chequered time. At times its vehicles were assembled here, but that was some years ago and they have been imported for many years now. In recent years the brand hasn't always been well supported and it has lost some of the lustre it once had as a consequence. Build quality has always been an issue with French cars and Peugeot has suffered from inconsistent quality, which wasn't always helped by a lack of support from the brand's dealers or importers. MODEL WATCH The 307 replaced the 306 in 2001 and came well credentialled having been voted European Car of the Year for 2002. While it replaced the 306 it was significantly larger than the 306. Whereas the 306 was regarded as a small car, the 307 was a size larger, almost a mid-sized model. But along with the extra size came an airy and roomy interior, which provided comfortable accommodation for four, and five at a pinch. While French cars are usually renowned for their comfortable, absorbent ride, the 307 didn't fit the mould. Peugeots have always been regarded as having a supple suspension that has delivered a most comfortable ride, without having a negative effect on the handling, but the 307 ride was more nervous and without the absorbency of other Peugeots. On the road it showed a nice balance with good grip and communicative steering, and a solid braking feel. Overall it was a nice package. There were two petrol engines and a diesel offered in the 307. The petrol engines consisted of a 1.6-litre double overhead cam four that produced 80kW and 147Nm and a 2.0-litre DOHC four that produced 100kW and 190Nm; the 2.0-litre single overhead cam diesel boasted 66kW and 206Nm. The transmission choices were a five-speed manual, which had a rather imprecise shift, and a four-speed auto, a limiting factor when it came time to get up and go. In auto form the 1.6-litre 307 was best described as lethargic. Even with the right foot buried deep in the carpet and the air turned off, the acceleration could be measured using the progress of the sun. In manual form it was a different story. With relatively short gearing the five-speed manual car got off the line quickly and with a good torque spread it was a nice easy car to drive. It took 11 seconds or so to reach 100km/h from a standstill, with another 7.5 seconds needed to cover the standing 400m dash. Top speed was 190km/h. The 2.0-litre was clearly quicker and quite a nice little performer, while the turbo diesel delivered at the pump. The 307 came in hatchback form initially, but a wagon and a convertible were added to the range in 2003. The XS 1.6 five-door was the mainstay of the range and came with a host of standard equipment, including front and side airbags, ABS with brake-force distribution, cloth trim, power windows, remote central locking, airconditioning, immobiliser, and CD player. The XS model was also available with the diesel engine. In addition, there was the XSE five-door, which had the 2.0-litre engine plus a leather-wrapped steering wheel and shift knob and five-stacker CD system. Atop the range sat the XSi three-door that also had the 2.0-litre engine plus leather trim and 17-inch alloy wheels. IN THE SHOP Build quality was inconsistent at first and there were a few problems as a result. The 307 seems to be plagued by electrical gremlins that can be frustrating to sort out. Some owners complain about the rate of brake wear that has them replacing pads and discs quite frequently. There is also some complaint about the brake dust that builds up on wheels. Seats tend to collapse at low kilometres when the cushion material breaks down. Paint quality is also an issue so keep a careful watch for blotchy marks and faded areas on exposed surfaces. It seems that most owners rate the 307 quite highly when all goes well, but quickly become frustrated when problems develop. It's a good idea to find a dealer with experience working on Peugeots, as some dealers appear to struggle to diagnose and fix faults when they occur, while others appear to be on top of things and fix problems quickly. CRUNCH TIME The 307 boasted an impressive array of airbags that provided a comprehensive package of protection when things turned nasty. All models had front airbags for the driver and passenger, plus front side airbags and front and rear curtain airbags. With anti-skid braking, electronic brake force distribution and emergency brake assist, along with good chassis fundamentals, the 307 makes an attractive buy on safety grounds.

The 27-year-old beat 15 finalists to the title in a tough test that pushed their driving skill and trucking knowledge to the limit on Sydney streets and the Darling Harbour wharf precinct.The Young Australian Truck Driver competition is an initiative of Scania Australia and based on biennial competitions that the company sponsors in 37 countries.Whyte was one of 1500 young drivers who entered the competition in the latter part of 2006. Wanting to measure his level of skill against other young drivers from all parts of the country, he was elated to be judged the best.“I wanted to see where I stood,” he says. “It was to get a feel of where I was with my skill level. This is unbelievable, it's life-changing.”Whyte says the Sydney tests were more challenging than the tests in Melbourne when he was one of three state finalists to win through to the national run-off.“I was a nervous wreck,” he says. “It was even worse because I was the last one to go through the test.”It wasn't that the tests themselves were difficult, it was the thought of being the last driver to do them, by which time there were 15 other finalists watching from the sidelines, adding pressure to a tense situation.If he was nervous it didn't show when it mattered the most, and he put in an almost perfect run to score the overall win.“I was rapt with how I went,” he says. “It just clicked and everything I did worked. I had a great day.”Whyte says the most difficult part of the test was the road drive section when he drove a Scania fitted with a curtain sider trailer through the unfamiliar streets of Sydney.“The roads are so narrow and they wind all over the place,” he says. “It's not like Melbourne where the roads are wider and a lot straighter. I'm glad I don't have to do that every day.”Whyte was bitten by the truck-driving bug when he was a five-year-old watching his father drive trucks.“All I wanted was to be like my father,” he says. “He's a truck driver and all I ever wanted to be was a truck driver like him.”He began driving as a teenager and had to battle for acceptance in an industry that prefers age and experience to youth.“I did the agency work that no one else wants to do and worked from there,” he says.Whyte now works for Melbourne-based freight operator Webster's Transport, driving a Kenworth B-Double hauling white cement between Melbourne and Adelaide.“It's a great job,” he says. “We drive over empty and bring the cement back to Melbourne. There is no pressure to make impossible deadlines.”While he hasn't yet decided what he will do now that he is the proud owner of a dark blue Scania P 420 prime mover, he is keen to see his name painted on the door and running his own business.“Ever since I was a little kid I wanted my name on the door,” he says. “Finally this is the opportunity to work for myself and reap the rewards of my own labour.”Whyte says he is keen to use his win to help educate young people about the the road freight industry as a career choice and see a change in public attitude to truck drivers.After congratulating Whyte on his win, Scania Australia Managing Director Kaj Faerm says the competition will hopefully help lift the profile of the profession.“Research tells us that skilled andwell-educated drivers can make a major difference to road safety, to saving lives and to having a very good career path in the transport industry,” he says.Faerm says Australia needs more skilled drivers to make the roads safer and to meet a pressing national shortfall in skilled drivers.South Australian Stefan Pulmer was declared the runner-up in the inaugural competition, but all finalists deserve to be acknowledged as winners.While Scania provided the gleaming blue prime mover, the Australian Trucking Association — with support from Shell, Continental Tyres, National Transport Insurance, Freighter and Fleetmark — also backed the YATD competition.Whyte urges young drivers to enter the next competition, which is due to be staged in 2009. “It's a lot of fun, so I'd tell every young driver to have a go,” he says.

It's not that difficult. Most of the checks are common sense, so don't be put off. An initial check of the basics will often rule out the duds and, once you've homed in on the car you reckon is the one to buy, have it thoroughly checked by a properly qualified professional.These are the basic checks you can easily do when assessing a car to buy.WHAT TO LOOK FOR1. DOG TYREDTYRES are the most critical safety item on a car, so it's important to check the rubber.Read the tyre placard — usually inside the front door — or the owner's manual to make sure the tyres that are fitted are the correct size, have the correct load and speed ratings, and are all the same.A look at the inflation pressure in the tyres may tell you something about the owner and how diligent they are about regular checks.State laws require a minimum tread depth of 1.5mm; any less and you will have to replace them when you want to transfer ownership. Also look for splits, bulges or scars in the sidewalls or tread area.Check the spare, too. Unless it's a space-saver it should be the same size as the other tyres, have the same load and speed rating, and be roadworthy.Alloy wheels should be checked for damage caused by hitting kerbs. Slight scarring can be machined out, but heavy damage may have buckled or cracked the rim. If the alloys were not factory-fitted, make sure they have the correct load rating — this is particularly important for utes, vans and heavy four-wheel drives.It is illegal to drive on wheels that have the incorrect load rating — you could be put off the road. 2. UNDER THE BONNETCHECK the engine bay for general cleanliness. If it sparkles, it may have been recently cleaned for sale. A filthy bay would suggest neglect. It should be somewhere in between.Look for oil leaks around the engine, coolant leaks around the radiator and hoses, and leaks from the power-steering system.Also look for cracked or perished cooling hoses and engine-drive belts, and frayed and loose wiring.Pull out the engine-oil dipstick and check the oil quality. It shouldn't be dirty or smell burnt, and there should be no sign of moisture. Do the same with the auto-transmission dipstick.Milkiness in the coolant is a sure sign of oil in the system and an indicator of major engine problems. 3. ON THE INSIDEOUR hot sun and high UV punishes cars, particularly the interiors.Today's sharply angled windscreens leave the dash more exposed to the sun, causing ugly cracks in dash pads, instrument binnacles and other plastic hardware. These can be repaired, but it's expensive.Early European and Japanese cars don't take our harsh sun very well and are most prone to damage, but plastics have improved and it's not such a problem on later-model cars.The trim gets punished as well, especially the driver's seat. Expect it to be worn and faded, perhaps even torn and split. Look beneath any seat covers — they could be concealing damaged trim.Carpets may also be worn, particularly under the driver's right foot. Lift any mats and check underneath for wear. 4. PERFECT PAINTFADED paint is common on older cars, particularly those from Asia. Red or silver is worst, but at least it's obvious when it occurs.Check flat surfaces that are most exposed to the sun, such as bonnet, roof, boot lid and bumpers.Flaws other than fading aren't so visible. Cars left parked under trees or powerlines may be damaged by sap and bird droppings, both of which are acidic and damage paint.If the deposits are not cleaned away quickly the paintwork can be permanently stained and there's little or no chance of restoring it. 5. ALL SYSTEMS GOMETHODICALLY test all systems to ensure they work. Assume nothing. Try the wipers on all speeds, headlights on low and high beam, tail, brake and reversing lights, turn signals, side repeaters, headlight flashers and fog lamps.Make sure all the warning lights come on when the ignition is switched on, and go off as they're meant to when the engine starts. Any that stay on indicate a problem.Operate the airconditioning in all modes, and do the same with the heater.If the car has power windows and mirrors, work them up and down, in and out. Slide the seats back and forth and crank the seat-back up and down.Don't forget the sound system, Take along a favourite CD, slide it in and listen. Does it sound the way it should? Try all modes — radio, cassette, CD — and make sure all speakers belt out the sound, with no rattles or odd noises that could suggest a fault.When road-testing the car, play a CD and see if it skips when you're travelling along a bumpy road.If cruise control is fitted, engage it during the road test, put it through all modes and make sure it disengages correctly. 6. SAFE 'N' SOUNDSAFETY should be top of list when we buy a car, so checking that the safety equipment works properly is a must.Airbags cannot be readily checked, but make sure the airbag warning light works by turning on the ignition, and that it goes out when the engine is started.If it's not illuminated when the ignition is first turned on, it's possible there's a fault with the airbag; if it stays illuminated when the engine starts, it almost certainly has a fault.Look for wear on the seatbelt webbing straps and make sure the inertia reel works correctly by extending the belt and allowing it to feed back. The action should be smooth and without hesitation.When you jerk the belt it should lock; if it doesn't, it won't do so in a crash when you need it the most. It should also lock when the car is parked on a steepish slope, up, down or sideways. 7. BE BODY WISERUST is a serious problem on all cars, though the widespread use of galvanised steels and extensive use of rust-prevention treatments on modern cars means it's not the problem it once was.Cars usually rust from the inside out. Moisture gets trapped between panels, inside doors, under carpets and seals, where the steel is unprotected by paint or other surface treatments.If you see bubbles, holes or stains in the external painted surfaces, you can be sure more serious corrosion is taking place below the surface.Areas most prone to rusting are the lower sections of the doors, the front and rear mudguards, the interior and boot floors, and around the windows.Open all doors and check the lower faces; lift the carpets, including the boot mat, and look for moisture underneath. Look for staining around windows, which could indicate rusting of the window-sealing flange.External rusting usually occurs when the painted surface is damaged, exposing the steel underneath.Look for scratches and dents not only on the outer surfaces, but on the underbody, which can be damaged by rocks, deep ruts or debris on the road.An underbody check is vital on four-wheel drives — they are most exposed to damage from sand, rocks, logs and water when used off the beaten track.Extended use on gravel roads can sand-blast the underbody almost clean, giving rust a hold.Off-road tracks are littered with rocks and logs that can be flung against the underbody, causing considerable damage not only to the underbody but to the various mounting brackets that retain fuel and brake lines, exhaust pipes and suspension.River and creek crossings further encourage rust. 8. ON THE ROADFOR the road test, try to arrange to start the car from stone cold, because that's when problems will be most apparent.Note any rattles or knocks during start-up, and once started the engine should idle smoothly and steadily. It shouldn't hesitate or stall when you go to drive away.Keep checking the oil-pressure and coolant-temperature gauges. The oil-pressure gauge should quickly rise to mid-scale position and stay there; if it's slow to rise or drops away there's a problem.The coolant-temperature gauge should also rise to mid-scale and stay there; if it rises the engine may be overheating.Accelerate hard, up to full throttle if conditions allow you to do so safely. Does the engine readily respond?Have someone tail you during the drive so they can watch for smoke from the exhaust, particularly on acceleration or when you lift off the accelerator pedal.The steering should be straight ahead, with no tendency to pull left or right under brakes. There should be no jerkiness in the steering when the wheel is turned.When driving over bumpy roads the suspension should react to the bump, then quickly settle back to normal. If it continues to bounce well after you've driven over the bump, the shock absorbers probably need replacing.The automatic transmission should select gears smoothly and without hesitation when accelerating under load, and it should downshift when you step on the accelerator hard, or select a lower gear.Likewise, a manual gearbox should show no reluctance to engage gears, reverse included, and the clutch should take up smoothly and without slipping.Listen all the while for noises from the exhaust, the gearbox and differential, and squeaks and rattles from the body. 9. TAKE A CRASH COURSECRASH repairers generally do a good job, so good it can be hard to pick that a car has been crunched.But some do, for various reasons, cut corners; others are downright disreputable and do a really poor job.Shoddy crash repairs generally can be easily seen. Look for overspray on parts that shouldn't have paint on them, such as tyres, rubber seals, chrome trim, windows, headlights and plastic trim.Also look inside door, boot and bonnet openings, because these are areas that lazy painters will often leave uncleaned after repairs have been done.Excessive dust from body filler in hard-to-reach nooks and crannies is also a telltale sign that all is not well with the body.Other giveaways, particularly in relatively new cars, are rattles and squeaks, sagging or misaligned doors, misaligned windows, and screws and bolts that show the marks of a spanner.An even worse problem is a car that has been involved in a serious crash, then been "cut and shut" — the damaged area cut away and a new section welded on. Such a vehicle is dangerous, so if there's even a hint of major damage, have it checked.The worst cases can often be visually detected by watching as they're driven down the road. If a car is crabbing — that is, not driving straight — walk away from it. 10. SERVICE HISTORYASK the vendor for the service history. Reluctance to provide it should be a warning sign that maintenance hasn't been a priority.A service history will tell you who has serviced the car — a dealer, service specialist or local mechanic.It will also give you a running history of the car's mileage so you can have some confidence in the current odometer reading. 11. GET PRO HELPNO MATTER how well you think you've checked a car, it's worth getting an expert to cast an experienced eye over it. Before you hand over your cash, have it checked by a motoring organisation such as the RACV, a professional body such as the VACC, or a trusted mechanic.

After buying our house, a car — new or used — is the most significant spend of our lives.

Diesels are becoming dream cars for a growing number of Australians. They promise better economy, lower running costs and a much longer run between stops at the pumps.But diesel sales are still only a tiny fraction of the showroom action in Australia. Most of the mainstream brands, with the exception of GM Holden with its Astra, have not jumped on the bandwagon. Yet.Honda does not have its diesels in Australia, and the other Japanese companies are still running only predictable stuff in the four-wheel-drive and workhorse classes, which means most of the action is coming from Europe.Those cars are doing well, and anyone who has been reading the CARSguide in the past year would have noticed the glowing reviews of the new breed of diesels.The new self-igniters have been praised for their performance as well as the economy that is taken for granted with diesel engines, but are they really as good as the reviews say, or are they just a passing fad?The drive reports on the new-age diesels — including Peugeots, Audis, BMWs and Benzes — are usually done on their own, comparing them only against other cars that have been through the CARSguide test garage, without lining them up against direct petrol-powered competitors from the same company.So this is the time. And the place.We wanted a realistic assessment of this new breed of diesels and decided to compare the latest Volkswagen Jetta using one car with a 2.0-litre TDI turbo-diesel engine to a similar vehicle with a 2.0-litre FSI turbo-petrol engine.Unfortunately, we couldn't source cars that were exactly the same apart from the engines, so we made one or two compromises.We'd prefer the same transmission in each car, but it simply isn't possible. So the diesel Jetta has a six-speed manual gearbox; the FSI is available with the six-speed DSG transmission only. And the non-turbo FSI engine would have been our first choice.Despite those little niggles, we still believe the comparison stands up.Diesels have been popular in Europe — where diesel fuel is generally cheaper than petrol — for some time, and some governments provide tax incentives to drive them.Against that background, carmakers have offered diesel engines across their model ranges, from the smallest to the largest.Here, the picture is a little different. Diesels have been available only in passenger car models from European makes that are marketed as prestige brands with premium prices that put diesels beyond the reach of many cost-conscious motorists.Add to that the price of diesel fuel here, which has often been a few cents a litre more expensive than regular unleaded, and it has been hard to mount a case for the diesel engine.In the Jetta the TDI diesel model costs $35,490, $2500 more than the non-turbo FSI petrol model, but $4500 less than the FSI Turbo DSG.That means the diesel buyer has to recoup $2500 in fuel consumption savings before they break even with the non-turbo FSI model.Of course, they have a healthy head start when compared to the FSI Turbo.Recovering the cost was made easier at the time of the test when the price of diesel was about the same as regular unleaded — about $1.39 a litre, or just a cent or two more expensive, depending on which servo you bought the fuel from.The fuel price picture was even brighter for the diesel because the FSI petrol Jettas use premium unleaded, which at the time was seven cents a litre more expensive than diesel at $1.46 a litre.Our assessment is made over 400km of mixed driving, which takes in some city traffic, some freeway running and some secondary roads in the country that were speed limited to 80 km/h.Though we don't set out to get the best fuel consumption, we stuck to the speed limit and drive with safety in mind.It is no surprise then that the diesel is the better in terms of fuel consumption over our drive, but that it did so well, returning 4.5 litres/100km average, is a pleasant surprise.The FSI Turbo also proves a surprise in returning 6.7 litres/100km.Each car is a revelation, but the diesel comes out on top when it uses 33 per cent cent less fuel. The results line up in a similar relationship to the official factory figures issued by VW, which claims the FSI Turbo is 2 per cent more economical than the non-turbo FSI engine.Using our figures, and making a 2 per cent negative adjustment to the FSI Turbo figure, we calculate fuel consumption at 6.8 litres/100km for a non-turbo Jetta.Thus the $2500 price premium of the diesel would be recouped in 7000km. That's about six months of average driving. After that you're laughing all the way to the bank.Though that's impressive it's not unexpected, because diesels have a reputation for being fuel misers.What they're not renowned for is smoothness or performance. In fact they've generally been regarded as being rough-running and slow compared to their petrol cousins.They're the compromises diesel buyers have had to accept in the past, but reviews of recent models would have you believe they're not such a compromise.Using the sporty FSI Turbo for our comparison put the TDI to the toughest test of performance.The FSI Turbo boasts a very flat torque curve with 280Nm on tap between 1800 and 5000 revs; the TDI delivers 320Nm between 1750 and 2500 revs before tailing off, but it still has as much as the FSI Turbo at 3200 revs.The non-turbo FSI has a peakier torque curve with 200Nm between 3000 and 5000 revs.The diesel has mountains of torque, but needs to be driven in a much narrower rev range to take full advantage of it. Drive the diesel with that in mind and the performance is almost equal to that of the regular FSI petrol engine, the diesel needing 9.7 seconds for the 0-100km/h sprint, the FSI petrol 9.2 seconds. The FSI Turbo DSG is a clear performance winner with a sprint of 7.2 seconds.It's a little slower that the rest, but the diesel's flexibility comes into its own on the mid-range overtaking sprint from 80-120 km/h when it takes 8.5 seconds, compared to 9.5 seconds for an FSI manual.In terms of refinement the TDI is a little noisier and little less smooth than the FSI Turbo, but it is still quite acceptable and certainly not enough to reject it out of hand.At the end of our head-to-head comparison the TDI comes out a clear winner over its closest petrol cousin with superior fuel consumption and better mid-range performance and flexibility, only losing our marginally in refinement.If performance is your prime consideration the FSI Turbo is the car to own, but it comes at the cost of a higher purchase price and a higher fuel price.INSIDE VIEWVolkswagon Jetta TDIENGINE 2.0-litre four-cylinder turbo-dieselPOWER 103kW at 4000 revsTORQUE 320Nm at 1750-2500 revsTRANSMISSION Six-speed manualDRIVE Front-wheel drivePRICE From $35,490VOLKSWAGENJETTA TURBO FSIENGINE 2.0-litre four-cylinder turbo-petrolPOWER 147kW at 5100-6000 revsTORQUE 280Nm at 1800-5000 revsTRANSMISSION Six-speed DSG semi-automaticDRIVE Front-wheel drivePRICE From $39,990

Ford's marketing people would love to be able to offer a dual-fuel Courier ute, but say the company's engineers tell them it's too hard.Fortunately for Courier V6 owners suffering meltdown under the pressure of spiralling petrol prices, aftermarket LPG specialists like Sprintgas have come to the rescue with their own dual-fuel system.Sprintgas has developed a system based around Italian OMVL hardware that bolts on to the 4.0-litre V6-powered Courier ute in a way that is virtually invisible.The only clues the Sprintgas system is fitted to the Courier are the red stickers on the rego plates. Apart from that you could be excused for thinking the Sprintgas-equipped ute is the same as other Courier.The LPG tank is hidden out of sight under the cab and the filler is tucked away with the petrol filler behind the fuel filler flap on the side of the trayInside there's the gauge that tells you how much LPG is in the tank and whether the ute is running on LPG or petrol. A close look under the bonnet would also reveal some of the LPG system hardware. But even then the installation is so neat you wouldn't know it wasn't done by the Ford factory.On one side of the engine bay there's the mixer, on the other the extra computer containing the LPG fuel map.The rest — the injectors and fuel rails — is hidden under the engine cover. The installation is as neat as a pin and that's how it runs.The Sprintgas system is a sequential gas injection model that injects the LPG close to the intake valve in the amount determined by the LPG fuel map in the computer.Because it injects the LPG, there is very little chance of the backfires that can plague older dual-fuel systems.With the Sprintgas system the engine always starts on petrol so there are no long periods of cranking before the engine fires, as can be the case when starting on LPG. The Courier then switches to LPG once a number of temperature and LPG pressure protocols are met.It will then run on LPG unless the driver switches over to petrol or the level of LPG runs low. The switch is seamless.Similarly there is no perceptible degradation in idle quality, driving, or performance, the 4.0-litre V6 appears to run just as well on LPG as it does on petrol.On CARSguide's brief Sprintgas Courier drive evaluation it consumed LPG at a rate of 17.4 litres/100km, about 14 per cent more than the regular Courier V6 when we last tested one.Installing the Sprintgas system costs around $3500, meaning it would take about 12,000km to recoup the installation cost after you factor in the government's $2000 rebate.

Kenworth has taken steps to make life easier and safer for drivers of its new K104B cab-over prime mover. The big Kenworth is the best-selling heavyweight cab-over truck in the country; it has been for years, but in many ways it is hamstrung by its runaway success. Dominance can sometimes stifle development and, as a result, change can come slowly. With its innovative swing-out staircase, getting in and out of the Freightliner Argosy cabin, featured in Big Wheels last week, is a breeze. However, drivers of the Kenworth heavyweight hero have had to scramble up steps set back from the cab before lunging forward into the driver's seat, all the while hanging from grab rails built into the side of the cab. Adding to the dangers, external steps and grab rails like those used on the K104B can be hard to see, particularly at night, and they can be slippery when wet. Getting in and out of a large cab-over truck is a precarious business that exposes drivers to the risk of falling. The risk increases when the driver is older — and with the average age of Australia's truck-driving population about 50, there's plenty of risk involved. Kenworth's revised steps were developed by the company's local engineers in conjunction with leading specialists in occupational health and safety and meet the relevant industry standards. “We worked with some leading ergonomics experts to establish the size, location and depth of the steps,” says Kenworth's National Sales Manager, Peter Langworthy, who unveiled the K104B at the recent National Truck and Commercial Vehicle Expo at Sydney Olympic Park. Langworthy says the criteria used in the development included having consistent step dimensions and ensuring the driver is able to maintain three points of contact — with steps, footwells and grab rails at all times. “They're now closer to the ground as well as being wider and have non-slip surfaces, and there are now two footwells in the side of the cab with LED illumination, so they're much better, but it's still awkward and the risk of falling is still high.” The LED lights illuminating the footwells come on when the driver operates the central locking. Kenworth has also revised the door openings by raising them 45mm, which makes it easier for drivers to get in and out of the cab and has the added bonus of improving the driver's visibility once in the driving seat. “The driver's visibility is greatly improved,” Langworthy says. “They have a much better view through the side windows and a better view of the side mirrors.” Once aboard the K104B the driver is rewarded with a new and luxurious interior trim, which makes greater use of soft, plush vinyl and recessed panels. Kenworth has also added new centre and overhead consoles. The centre console has a larger storage box with secure lid, which is ideal for storing snacks and personal items, while the overhead console has a storage locker and provision to fit a GPS navigation system or other info displays. There's also a new dash layout, with the warning-light cluster relocated to a central position where the lights are more readily visible to the driver.

The VY, launched in 2002, was the second major update of the VT and brought with it refinements to the body, power train and chassis which reaped rewards in improved performance, ride and handling, and safety. Another minor update in 2003, the VY II, continued the evolutionary development of the series with a raft of more subtle refinements.The VY model range was familiar Holden fare. The Executive was aimed at the fleet buyer, the Acclaim more at the private buyer, with the Berlina and Calais appealing to user-choosers who wanted more.There were also sporty models in the form of the S and SS. But this time there was a new sports sedan in the SV8 which offered many of the SS features at a more affordable price.Styling changes were relatively minor, but brought a more aggressive look, with new grilles and headlamps, bumper treatments and tail lamps. The well-proven 3.8-litre overhead valve ECOTEC V6 was carried over unchanged, while the power of the 5.7-litre overhead valve Gen III V8 jumped to 235kW, courtesy of a retuned twin exhaust system.There was nothing much new on the transmission front, with a choice of four-speed auto or five-speed manual on the V6, and four-speed auto or six-speed manual on the V8. Underneath, Holden's chassis engineers made some big changes, mostly to the steering, which was adapted from the Monaro. The Monaro had won high praise for its steering feel and precision.In the 2003 VY II update, Holden gave the luxury Calais a more European personality with bolder styling inside and out, larger alloy wheels, and sportier suspension settings.The 5.7-litre Gen III V8 was offered in two forms, a dual exhaust version, which boasted 245kW at 5600 revs for the SS and SV8 models, and a 235kW single exhaust version for the rest of the range.Generally, the Commodore is quite reliable. Little seems to go wrong with the ECOTEC V6 engine which has proven to be a tough old unit, but the Gen III 5.7-litre V8 was affected by high oil consumption accompanied by piston rattle. Holden opted for piston rings that were a loose fit in the bore in the interests of fuel consumption, but that resulted in a light piston rattle along with high oil consumption on some V8s.New teflon-coated pistons and tighter rings were released and they seem to have fixed most problem engines. Holden rebuilt the problem engines so it's unlikely you'll find one in the field now, but it's worth checking the history of any V8 with the owner. Ask for any oil consumption history they might have, and check if it's been rebuilt.Both engines will run quite happily on LPG, which makes the VY an attractive proposition. It's one of the better cars to buy if you're prepared to convert to dual-fuel.The auto transmissions are generally reliable, but check the trans oil in any car fitted with a tow bar, and look for signs it has been used for heavy towing. Holden's engineers improved the ride and handling with the addition of a toe-link to the Commodore's IRS. That also improved tyre wear, which still is quite high.Further stiffening of the body shell aided primary crash protection with reduced risk of lower limb injury, while dual airbags were standard on all models, along with load-limiting seatbelt retractors.The recent used-car safety survey rated the Commodore above the average for occupant protection, but not so high when it came to impact on the occupants of the car you hit.2002-2004Check for rear tyre wearSafety of airbagsComfortable seatsStiffened body structureReliable and fuel efficient V6Improved steering precisionPossible oil consumption of V8Sharp aggressive stylingThere are lots of low mileage ex-lease cars on the market now making the VY a good buy.

The previous Falcon beat the old Commodore in our last sanctioned big Aussie car battle, but the Holden has since been rejuvenated at a cost of $1 billion. It has been in serious training for five years.The BF Falcon was boosted with mechanical upgrades late last year, but it is much the same as the 2002 BA model.It will be given a styling tweak and some other adjustments in October, before a new model hits in 2008.We let the cars do battle in an extensive test on challenging Victorian roads, dirt tracks and highways.We picked the most popular family models, the $39,175 Falcon Futura and the $40,240 Berlina.ON THE ROADWITH $1 billion spent on developing the Commodore, you would think the VE Holden would easily beat the ageing Falcon. If you did, you are wrong. This fight goes all the way to the last round.ENGINE AND TRANSMISSIONTHE Falcon is the winner when it comes to punch. Torque is the key. It shouldn't be a surprise, given the Ford has 53Nm more on tap.The last Commodore didn't need as much grunt because it was lighter. Now it is 11kg heavier than the Ford and you feel it.The Berlina isn't a slug, but the engine does have to work a lot harder.Going uphill, the Berlina's four-speed transmission has to drop down one or two gears more than the Ford equivalent, meaning the engine revs higher to maintain momentum.That said, the Holden engineers have done a great job improving the refinement of the Alloytec V6.It was pretty rough when it was introduced in the VZ model, with nasty noises and vibrations, but it is much smoother now.At idle, the Holden engine is so quiet that sometimes we are not sure if the engine is turned on.The Ford is not as smooth at idle. It vibrates a bit more, especially when switching the airconditioning on or off.The Futura's engine does emit a rortier engine note, which adds to the sporty feel.Its automatic transmission works better than the Berlina's, with smoother changes, but the difference is not huge.Like almost all new cars, the Futura's automatic has a manual shift mode, but the Berlina misses out.FUEL CONSUMPTIONYOU might expect the Futura to be thirstier than the Berlina because of its performance edge, but that's not the case.In fact, the Ford is lighter on fuel than the Holden. We are probably harder on the cars during the test than most owners would be, but we drive both cars in exactly the same way.The Berlina uses an average of 10.9 litres over 100km and the Falcon uses an average of 9.8 litres/100km.Based on those figures, an average driver would spend an extra $6 a week to run the Holden at current fuel prices.RIDE COMFORTTHE Berlina is the winner when it comes to ride comfort.It is set softer than the Falcon and is nicer to ride in on smooth roads and most city streets. The Berlina's suspension might be too soft for some. It can float a bit when running over big bumps on broken country roads.The Falcon set-up is firmer. It is still fairly comfortable, but not as nice as the Berlina. It is more lively and you feel more of the bumps.The comfort level in the Berlina is aided by a quiet interior. We can feel the serenity.The Futura is a pretty quiet car, with BF upgrades reducing noise levels, but the Berlina is quieter.Intrusive tyre noise experienced on the Commodore launch early this month, particularly in sporty models, was not evident during the test.HANDLING BOTH cars have excellent road-holding ability. The Futura and Berlina both hang on well on dry tarmac, wet tarmac and slippery gravel.Both have the advantage of traction control, but the Holden has the added safety of electronic stability control.The Futura gives the driver more feel when pushing hard, both through the suspension and the steering, which is more solid than the Berlina. The VE Holden's steering is much lighter than the previous model, which was not good. The new system is very light on centre, but loads up as you turn.It takes a while to get used to, but the lighter system is much less taxing when you are negotiating tight turns in places like car parks.The Holden's driving position is much better than the Ford's and it is easier to get comfortable behind the wheel.You feel as if you are sitting lower in the Berlina, but you still have good visibility.The door line is higher and the driver feels more secure.In the Futura, you feel you are sitting up higher.INSIDE APART from a rotten slab of plastic stuck on the dashboard that we think is supposed to imitate woodgrain, the Berlina's interior is very good.A lot of time and effort has been spent creating a functional and attractive layout.The buttons are all visible to the driver, unlike the pokey buttons for things such as the fuel cap release that are hidden behind the Futura's steering wheel.The Berlina's sound system, which copies Ford's piano-key buttons, has a lot of bass and a cool green-coloured screen.Dual-zone climate control in the Holden is a welcome feature, as is the Bluetooth that beams your phone calls through the car speakers, as long as you have the right phone.We don't like the Berlina's handbrake, which is part of the centre console. It looks cheap and is clumsy to use.The leather-wrapped steering wheel in the Berlina is a nice touch and the cloth trim looks fine, but we are not convinced the cloth fabric will endure the rigours of family travel.The familiar Futura interior is starting to look dated.Its plush felt seat trim is nice, but the dashboard is fairly plain and the centre control screen has been surpassed by the Berlina.The plastic steering wheel doesn't match the Berlina's and the instrument panel doesn't look as classy.Still, most of the controls are well laid out, especially the climate-control dials and radio controls.The cruise control of both cars works well, but we prefer the steering wheel-mounted Ford system, rather than the stalk system of the Holden.OUTSIDE THERE is no competition when it comes to exterior styling. The Berlina looks so much better than the Futura, which is a now a plain Jane.With its flared wheel arches, coupe-like roof line and 17-inch wheels, the Holden wins the fashion battle.PRACTICALITY APART from a silly decision to not include a split-fold rear seat, Holden has done well with practicality.Things such as door bins for the rear-seat passengers, doors that open wider than the Futura's and a huge, flat-bottomed boot all add up.Both cars offer lots of rear legroom and headroom, but the Berlina is easier to get in and out of.Holden fitted the test car with the optional full-size spare tyre ($250), despite arguing that punctures are a thing of the past. We suggest owners do the same. The full-size spare takes up no more room in the boot.THE VERDICTThis is close as both cars are world-class.If you want to tow, the Futura is the car to have. It is also the car we would pick for a fun run on a twisty road.The Berlina's fuel-drinking problem is a concern and could put off quite a few potential buyers.For us, the Holden is the better car for everyday driving. It needs more torque, but is more refined, quieter, is more comfortable to ride in on most roads and looks to be a prestige car.There is more useable boot space, the driving position is better and it has electronic stability control as standard.The Berlina wins this fight - just - but we would jump either way depending on which brand offered the best discount.

PETROL prices are driving people crazy. And unless you drive something as small as a Hyundai Getz, you're probably looking for a way to cut the cost of motoring.LPG is an obvious temptation, particularly with the Federal Government deciding to contribute $2000 to the cost of converting a second-hand car.But there are plenty of things to consider before you take the plunge and sign up for the rebate.Most important is the time it will take to recover the cost of the conversion. For most people it will be years.But some issues are even more basic - can your car run on LPG?When Holden released the dual-fuel package for the VZ Commodore with the Alloytec V6, it included an upgraded engine capable of handling LPG. Holden insists it is essential to ensure you get adequate life out of the engine.If you take a regular VZ Commodore with the standard Alloytec V6, you risk a costly cylinder head after a year or two.Reports from the LPG industry suggest that you fit LPG to a VZ Commodore at your own peril.The experience to date is that the Alloytec heads will need rebuilding within 50,000km of fitting the system, and the cost of the rebuild will more than eat up the savings made at the pump.And it's not just the Commodore. There are many other cars that simply aren't suitable for LPG, so it's important to do your homework before you make the commitment to switch.HOW MUCH WILL I SAVE?LPG is typically about one-third of the price of regular unleaded petrol.Though that looks great, it's not a measure of the savings you will potentially make if you switch to LPG.LPG isn't as efficient as petrol, because it has a lower calorific value. In simple terms, that means you need to burn more LPG to release the same energy as you would using petrol.In practice, it usually means you use about 20 per cent more LPG than you would when running on petrol.So a simple way of calculating the saving on LPG is to determine the cost of driving 1000km on petrol and the same distance on gas.If your car does 12 litres/100km on petrol it will require 120 litres to drive 1000km. With unleaded petrol at $1.45 a litre, it will cost $174.To drive the same distance on LPG needs 144 litres, and if LPG costs 45 cents a litre the trip will cost $65.That's a saving of $109 for every 1000km driven, which has to be factored against the cost of installing the LPG system.A good-quality LPG installation typically costs $3000 to $3500. To recover that outlay on the basis of $109 every 1000km, you would need to drive 27,500 to 32,100km.So if you do 20,000km a year it will take 16 to 19 months to recoup the cost of installation and start to make real savings.Of course, the government's $2000 rebate changes the picture significantly.Subtracting the rebate from the cost of conversion means you need to recover $1000 to $1500. That means driving 9200km to 13,800km, which should be comfortably done within a year.CAN MY CAR BE CONVERTED?IN THEORY it is possible to convert every car to run on LPG, but that doesn't mean it is viable.LPG is a dry fuel with none of the lubricating properties of petrol. Without this lubrication the valves and valve seats wear at a much faster rate, which can cause the engine to run roughly and even misfire.The only solution then is to rebuild the cylinder head, or heads in the case of a V6 or V8, which can be a costly business.It's the reason carmakers fit hardened valves and valve seats when they develop an LPG-compatible engine.All engines suffer from valve recession, so the question that needs to be answered when considering switching to LPG is how much faster the rate of recession is on the engine.The best way to answer that question is to talk to an LPG specialist who should have experience converting cars like yours.But don't just take their word for it. Ask them for references and talk to other owners about their experience with the same car as yours.Traditionally the demand for LPG systems has come from owners of large cars with sixes or V8s. Rarely has it come from owners wanting to convert small four-cylinder cars.As a result there hasn't been any need to develop kits for these makes and models.But with the recent petrol price rises there has not only been a much greater demand to convert the usual makes and models but there is also interest in converting other cars.The problem for anyone wanting to convert a car that historically hasn't been converted, is that it's unlikely there will be a kit available.And there is little or no chance that anyone will develop one while the demand is limited.LPG Australia has a useful web site listing the makes and models for which dual-fuel kits are available.Go to www.lpgaustralia.com.au for more information.WILL MY WARRANTY BE AFFECTED?LPG systems supplied by carmakers on new cars - the Mitsubishi 380, Falcon and Commodore -- are covered by the usual new-car warranty from the factory. But non-factory systems fitted by the trade are not covered by the carmaker.In fact, any modification you make to your car will affect the new-car warranty in one way or another.In the case of converting it to LPG, you will void the warranty with respect to the engine, and any modifications made to install the LPG tank and other equipment associated with the system will also affect the manufacturer's cover.The manufacturer of the system normally covers the equipment they supply as part of the system, and the installer should cover the work done in their workshop.Before committing to have a system fitted to your car, you need to clarify the cover provided by the system supplier and the installer.It is possible to buy a warranty that will cover the engine. OAMPS insurance has several warranty options providing cover for up to three years or 60,000km but, of course, this adds to the cost of conversion and the time it will take to recoup the cost at the pump.WHAT IMPACT WILL IT HAVE ON MY CAR?IT IS normal to expect a slight loss in performance when running on LPG compared with petrol, though the latest sequential gas injection systems minimise the loss.An engine will run a little more roughly on LPG. It won't idle as smoothly and will take a little longer to start. With the new SGI systems the engine starts on petrol before switching to LPG so the starting time is the same.In addition, there is usually a loss of room in the boot to accommodate the LPG tank - or inside the tail in the case of a wagon - because the spare wheel will have to be relocated to make way for the tank.