Articles by CarsGuide team

Fake leather is better than real leather. That's the view of an increasing amount of prestige car customers who refuse to buy cars with cowhides on the premise of animal welfare. Imitation leather trim started off as a cheap alternative to actual hide, but is actually sought after by some customers, especially those

A mad cowboy driver once campaigned a high-powered two-wheel-drive Hummer in the Dakar Rally with amazing results, considering the mountainous sand dunes on the course.Closer to home, the photo board in the Birdsville camping ground canteen shows plenty of photographs of two-wheel-drive vehicles such as a Porsche 911 making it to the top of Australia's biggest sand dune, Big Red. But these achievements have been made at high speed, with lots of power and huge ground clearance.The shores and deserts of Australia beckon the adventurous motorist, but if you want to go driving on the beach or out in the Simpson Desert with a degree of safety, it is best to take a four-wheel drive.You don't necessarily need a hard-core 4WD machine. Almost any compact SUV will be able to manage a beach at low tide when the sand is hard. But to get to the hard and wet sand at low tide, often you have to cross dry, loose sand at the top of the beach, so you will need to do some preparation.Again, even part-time all-wheel-drive machines can make it through a short section of soft sand with the right preparation and driving skills. Of course, sand can be unpredictable and you are bound to get bogged at some stage, so a retrieval plan is necessary.Let's start with vehicle choice.VEHICLEClearance is the main consideration because a lack of clearance will mean the body drags in the sand and slows the vehicle. We would suggest a minimum clearance of 210mm, which includes most of the "soft roaders". However, remember that clearance is reduced if you have several passengers and cargo on board.All-wheel-drive vehicles which only operate in four-wheel drive when the vehicle senses slip at a wheel are ok for flat sand running. However, if you are going to be travelling long distances in soft sand or trying to scale dunes, you need a permanent four-wheel drive system. The steeper the inclines, the more likely you are going to need hill descent and a low ratio.Don't forget to turn off the traction control as it will only serve to get you bogged. Most supposed off-road vehicles these days come with highway tyres which are useless in the sand. A good set of sand tyres or even all-purpose/all-terrain tyres will make beach driving easier.While most experienced sand drivers prefer a manual gearbox, for novices and even some expert drivers, an automatic gearbox is almost foolproof in the sand as it keeps the revs and the gear matched to the conditions. The last thing you want to do is try to snatch a lower gear when you are running out of puff up a steep dune.PREPARATIONIf you are heading into the vast desert landscape, tell someone such as a national park ranger first and take an emergency position-indicating radio beacon (EPIRB) in case you get stuck. If the beach is more your thing, grab the tide times from the newspaper and plan to drive at low tide. Many a vehicle has been lost to the sea by drivers who didn't check tide times. The most important equipment when sand driving is your tyres.Depending on how big your load, you can deflate the tyres to 18-20psi or even lower if tackling powdery red sand. Don't guess pressures. Use a gauge. Also, take a compressor to reinflate your tyres. Remember, gravel tracks can easily damage the sidewalls of deflated tyres. Sand driving puts strain on the engine and transmission, so carry extra fluids (water, oil etc). Deserts are hot, so take extra water for the passengers, too.Sand can be a trap and if you get stuck, you will need some form of retrieval gear such as a shovel, ropes, snatch straps and/or MaxTrax, a Brisbane invention which is basically a plastic "piece of road" you push under the bogged wheels and then simply drive out.DRIVING SKILLSPractise on a small area of sand before tackling the vast desert or a beach. Momentum is your friend, so keep the revs, not necessarily the speed, high. Sand tends to form into ruts and will push the vehicle around. Within reason, let the sand steer the vehicle and don't fight it too much.Keep your hands light on the steering wheel and your thumbs pointed out so they don't get caught if the wheel suddenly spins. Drive smoothly as sudden steering input doesn't work and stopping and starting will bog the vehicle.Always look way ahead for ruts, gullies and other obstacles, especially children if you're driving on the beach. Don't follow other vehicles too closely. If the vehicle in front gets stuck, so will you.If you're travelling over dunes, put a high flag on the front of your vehicle to alert vehicles coming the opposite way. Slow down at the top of a dune to look for approaching vehicles.RETRIEVALYou will get stuck at some stage. But don't worry, that's all part of the adventure and if you have the correct gear, you will get out. There are many ways to escape a sand trap. You can use your winch, but only if there is something to attach it to.Snatch straps are good, but you need another vehicle and they can be dangerous if they let go. Shovels are a must to clear sand from in front of and behind the bogged wheels. Then throw branches or rocks under the tyres so you can drive out. MaxTrax are even better and you don't have to rely on other vehicles or anchor points.TOP 10 SAND DRIVING TIPS Check tide times and drive at low tide.Momentum is your friend, so keep revs high.Deflate the tyres to about 18-20psi, depending on load.Use a tyre pressure gauge. Do not guess the pressure.Be smooth with steering, acceleration and braking.Keep your thumbs pointing out from the steering wheel.Look ahead for gullies, obstacles and children.Don't follow other vehicles too closely.Obey all normal road rules.Don't forget retrieval gear.

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It is not only a great feeling to bring a gleam to the chrome and the paintwork, but washing is also a handy way to check that everything on your car, ute, SUV, truck or bike is as it should be with no loose bolts, badges or bumpers.  It can also be a sensual feeling to run your wet sponge over the contours of the bodywork.But before you grab your hose and get all excited, you should check your local council for water restrictions. Some stipulate the use of special hose nozzles or buckets and specific hours or days when washing is allowable.Even if working within the guidelines, it is advisable to be water conscious.  Use a trigger nozzle on the end of the hose. It not only conserves water but also gives a nice, even spray. And if you wash your car on your lawn, it saves you having to water it.High-pressure hoses are waterwise but be careful not to spray directly on rubber, or vinyl such as tonneau covers or motorcycle seats, as some powerful units can sometimes rip these materials.  Frequent washing will ensure the paintwork is kept in good condition and prevent oxidisation.However, you can overdo it, especially on old vehicles and those with exposed engines and other mechanical parts.  Too much water and detergent can make plastics and rubber parts dry out, and dilute the lubricants on some important working parts such as suspension and various cables.It is therefore important to use a revitalising oil-based solution or relevant lubricant on these parts after washing.  And don't forget to wash underneath your vehicle, especially SUVs or anything that has been on dirt roads or even wet roads.  Road debris, mud and sand accumulate under fenders, on suspension components and on the chassis.If allowed to build up, they hold the moisture for extra hours and even days beyond a rainy spell and can lead to the development of rust.  Everyone has their preferred method of cleaning their precious vehicle and there is a host of tips available.We have assembled some tips that you may not have heard of before.  They come from Autoglym Australia which makes car cleaning products, so obviously they encourage use of dedicated cleaning and polishing materials.However, we're not so sure about the first tip of not using household cleaners. Certainly dishwashing liquid couldn't cause any problems to paintwork or leave smears. After all, we wash our crockery and cutlery with it. So, armed with some commercial cynicism, but always prepared to listen to expert advice, here are Autoglym's tips:1. Ditch the household cleaners  they are designed for very different purposes and can smear, strip polish/wax and damage a car's exterior. Only use dedicated automotive products which are designed for the specific task at hand.2. Cool shade is better. If you wash your vehicle in the open hot sun the cleaning products will dry quickly making them harder to remove and will likely cause streaking.3. Rinse first and make it warm before you wash. Rinse the entire vehicle to remove grit, mud and dust. This makes cleaning easier and helps to prevent scratching. The water you use with your detergent should be warm to make washing easier.4. Use a wheel cleaner. Wheel cleaners are designed to strip away brake dust far more efficiently than normal detergents alone. They will save you a lot of time and are not very expensive. Make sure the wheel is cool. Rinse quickly and don't let the product dry.5. When washing the car, work one panel at a time and wash from bottom to top and then back down again. By working in this manner you will make sure you don't miss sections that you have to go back and re-clean. If you work from top to bottom the soapy water will drain down the panel making it harder for you to see where you have cleaned.6. Clean your chamois regularly with detergent to remove any dirt and grime. If you are using a dirty chamois you will be left with unsightly streaks because you are essentially putting dirt back on your car. Most people don't think of doing this but it makes an enormous difference. After every third or fourth wash fill your bucket with warm water, add some detergent, give the chamois a good clean, rinse and allow to dry. This exercise should take you about two minutes but will make cleaning quicker and easier.7. A well-polished and waxed vehicle is significantly easier to clean because the process of polishing and waxing leaves a clean smooth surface with a protective barrier that repels dirt, water and harmful contaminates. It also makes your car look great. A good wax will give you four to six months' protection before needing to reapply.

Cars are rated from 1 to 5 in terms of safety, with a 5-star rating the best.The stars are awarded under the Australasian New Car Assessment Program (ANCAP).ANCAP crash tests cars in specially built facilities in scenarios that are designed to simulate real world situations.The stars indicate the level of safety for occupants and pedestrians in a crash, as well as an indication of a car's ability to avoid a crash altogether through technology fitted.The ANCAP crash test program was established in 1992 with the first test results published in 1993.Vehicles must achieve minimum scores across all physical crash tests for each ANCAP safety rating levelEuro NCAP was established in 1997 and ANCAP began testing and assessing vehicles in accordance with the Euro NCAP protocols in 1999. At this time the star rating system was also introduced.Crash tests dummies costing up to a million dollars each are used to measure the forces and likely injuries a driver, passenger or pedestrian may sustain.Vehicles must achieve minimum scores across all physical crash tests for each ANCAP safety rating level, as well as meet minimum requirements for the inclusion of safety equipment and technologies.In 2008 the inclusion of electronic stability control (ESC) became mandatory before a vehicle could achieve the maximum five stars.Cars built before this date may well have a five-star rating, but may not necessarily be fitted with ESC — so it pays to check.Ratings are on record, in a searchable, online databaseANCAP crash tests new passenger and light commercial vehicles entering the Australian and New Zealand markets at its facility at Huntingwood, NSW, but also accepts crash data from related organisations like Euro NCAP to formulate ratings.ANCAP sources cars itself to avoid any possibility of vehicles being specially prepared.Ratings are on record, in a searchable, online database that stretches back to the first car to receive a five star rating in Australia, the Renault Laguna in 2001.

The extra drag caused by open windows is a killer for fuel economy, as modern cars operate more efficiently with the air-conditioning working for cabin comfort.  Open windows can be as bad as running with a roof rack, another overlooked cause of poor economy during summer holiday runs."A car uses less fuel to run an air-conditioning system than it will use due to the aerodynamic drag on a vehicle when its windows are open," says the head thermal systems division at Delphi Corporation, one of the world's largest automotive suppliers.  “It is often more fuel efficient to drive with the air conditioning on than with the aircon off and the windows rolled down, particularly when driving on the highway."They admit an air-conditioning system increases the load on an engine, but the latest designs of pumps are far more efficient and effective than aircon in the early days.  American testing shows aircon can account for approximately five per cent of a car's annual fuel bill, but Delphi says modern energy-efficient systems can halve the running costs.Airconditioning tipsIt has three big tips to maximise the effectiveness of aircon: opening windows to vent hot air before driving, using the recirculation system to improve cold-air flow, and setting the temperature to fully cold and using the fan to regulate the airflow.  “These simple steps allow the car air and seats to be cooler which helps the air conditioning provide cooling comfort faster and save fuel at the same time,” states Delphi.They says it is important to purge hot air if a vehicle has been parked in the sun, before closing the windows to let the aircon go to work.  Then, hitting the 'recirc' button — or Max on some cars — improves the effectiveness of a system because it is recirculating air which is already cooler than ambient.Finally, a manual aircon system will run best on the fully cold setting to get maximum cooling. The blower fan is the best way to regulate the airflow. Delphi says aircon systems need to be monitored and should be checked for leaks if there is any loss of efficiency, while refrigerant needs to be topped-up because of losses through hoses over the years.Also, newer vehicles have air filters which sometimes need cleaning to prevent reduced airflow from debris blockages.History of airconditiong1. The first modern airconditioning system is credited to Willis Haviland Carrier, who developed a system in Buffalo, New York in 1902.2. The term 'air-conditioning' was first coined by Stuart Cramer in 1906.3. Freon, the gas most often used in airconditioning, was created by Thomas Midgley in 1928.4. Packard was the first carmaker to instal automotive airconditioners, in 1939. They cost $US274 and filled the whole boot space, pumping cool air through the rear parcel shelf.5. General Motors fitted the first front-mounted aircon system as an option on its V8-powered Chevrolet and Pontiac models in 1954.

It can be quite challenging with plenty of traps for the unwary.  Yet it is one of the few off-road challenges suitable for just about any SUV or 4x4 ute, including those luxury softroaders that soccer mums use to ferry their children to school.Softroaders are not really off-roaders. They have low clearance, the air intakes are too low for river crossings, they don't have low range and their monocoque construction (integrated body and frame) makes them unsuitable for rugged punishment.  Yet they can be quite capable on the beach.I recently took two unlikely SUVs for a romp on the Noosa north shore and attracted a lot of bewildered looks from the holidaymakers who were mainly in Toyota, Mitsubishi and Nissan SUVs and utes. A few even smirked, thinking they would be called on to pull us out when we eventually got stuck.But with a little preparation and a bit of education, most people can take their SUV or ute on the beach.DESTINATIONThe first thing you should do is check whether vehicles are allowed on the beach.  There are many beaches around Australia where they are permitted and usually there is a sign on the access road to the beach.Be aware that all road rules still apply on the beach such as wearing a seat belt, not drink driving and not speeding.  Beach speeds are usually 80km/h, unless otherwise posted.In peak holiday times police heavily patrol beaches where 4WDs are permitted.  These beaches can be quite dangerous for swimmers and anglers; it's like playing beside the highway.It's also dangerous for drivers as there have been several fatal accidents in vehicle rollovers.  Another important aspect of choosing your venue is the time of day to drive on the beach.  This is governed by the tides.At high tide, there is sometimes no beach to drive on or there may only be a small section left which will be deep, soft sand.  An incoming high tide can also cut you off from your exit point and leave you stranded.Make it easy on yourself and go a couple of hours before peak low tide when you can run on the firm, flat and wet sand.  Isolated beaches may be desirable, but if you run into trouble there is no help.Busy beaches mean there are plenty of vehicles to help tow you out if you get bogged. However, heavy beach traffic can also churn up the sand and make the ruts deeper.VEHICLEWhile just about any SUV or ute with part-time all-wheel drive or permanent four-wheel drive will perform on the beach, some are better than others.If you have blinged your SUV with big wheels and low-ratio tyres, you may have given it more street cred, but you will also have decreased its beach ability because you can't drop the tyre pressures to gain the benefit of a wider contact patch. Yet BMW SUVs with low-profile run-flat tyres perform quite well on sand because they are wide tyres.  Usually, the tyre profile should be at least 50 per cent so you can effectively deflate them.Driving on sand is all about momentum. Keeping the vehicle moving swiftly will keep it on top of the sand and prevent it from sinking. Soft sand instantly saps power from the vehicle, which can then lead to bogging.For this reason automatic diesels are the best sand performers. They have the grunt to handle the sudden slowing effect of soft sand and they will quickly change down a gear without losing momentum.  However, good drivers can still use manual and petrol vehicles effectively.Another issue is clearance.  Your vehicle should have at least 185mm of clearance. The more clearance the better.  While sand is unlikely to damage the vehicle's undercarriage, it will cause the vehicle to plough, slow down and lose precious momentum.PREPARATIONBefore leaving home, take out everything from the vehicle that you don't need.  The lighter the vehicle, the more chance it has of staying on top of the sand, rather than burying itself.  A lighter vehicle also has better clearance.However, it is wise to pack a shovel, snatch strap or, better still, a set of MaxTrax recovery gear which is a Brisbane invention. They are basically a piece of portable road that you shove in front of bogged tyres, then you simply drive out of the bog.Make sure your vehicle is fuelled up before hitting the beach. There are no servos on the beach and sand will substantially reduce fuel economy, so you can run dry much sooner than expected.Just before your vehicle hits sand, stop the car and deflate the tyres. Don't do it when you leave home as deflated tyres badly affect handling, wear quicker and brake longer.You can deflate the tyres at a service station near the beach and use the air pump to gauge the pressures, or you can buy yourself a cheap tyre pressure gauge. Simple manual gauges are often more accurate than impressive looking digital gauges.Never guess the pressures based on tyre bulge as some have stiff sidewalls that prevent bulging.  Tyre pressures will depend on the terrain and load, but 18-20psi is fairly standard. If there is some rock on the beach and you have a heavy load on board, keep the pressures up a bit.Don't forget to re-inflate the tyres as soon as possible after leaving the beach. Meanwhile, drive very slowly and leave plenty of braking distance.Turn off any traction or stability controls on your vehicle.  These controls either take power away from a slipping wheel or apply brakes. That's the last thing you want when you are trying to keep momentum going.DRIVING TECHNIQUESThere are many words of advice for driving on sand such as "use the highest gear in the lowest range".  However, softroaders don't have low range. In which case, simply choose a lower gear.  If your vehicle is automatic and has sports mode, then use that.Keep the engine revving so it has power on tap for when you hit soft sand.  Be aware that an automatic gearbox can heat up in these conditions, so it's a good idea to rest the vehicle periodically.  The smoother you drive, the better.Don't make sharp turns because the vehicle won't respond. Instead, you will plough straight ahead, like understeering on a wet road.  If this happens, unwind the steering and wind it on again. You may have to repeat this maneuvre several times and slow down a little.Turn in long slow arcs a good distance before you need to avoid an obstacle.  Place your hands gently at 3 and 9 o'clock on the wheel and keep your thumbs pointing out. The steering wheel can get flicked around by wiggly ruts and can dislocate your thumb.Don't fight the steering. Let it go where it wants.  In deep hard ruts you may need to "row" the steering wheel to gain traction on the sides of the ruts.  Also, be smooth on the brakes. Sudden braking will lead to slides and can bog your vehicle.  If there are dunes on the beach, drive up swiftly but pause at the top in case there is traffic coming the other way.Fit a tall flag on the front of your car so people can see you approaching from the other side of the dune.  Never turn on a dune. You can easily get bogged or roll.Don't follow too closely. If the vehicle in front becomes bogged, then you won't have time to steer around them or brake safely.  If you follow a slow-moving vehicle too closely you also run the risk of losing momentum and getting bogged.When you stop on the beach, park on hard sand. When taking off again, move slowly to avoid wheel spin then pick up speed as quickly and smoothly as possible.  On beach tracks always give way to vehicles travelling uphill as they need to keep up momentum.WARNINGSWhile beach driving is fun, you must be alert to the many lurking dangers.  Watch out for gullies, especially at low tide and at noon when there are no shadows to alert you. On north-south beaches there won't be any shadows even when the sun is low.Watch out for children on the beach. They are having fun and oblivious to traffic.  Stay off any beach vegetation. It is very fragile and even driving slowly over it can destroy roots.There are no line markings on the beach, so when approaching another vehicle, stay left. If you can't, then slow down and put on your right indicator to show the approaching traffic you are going to pass on their left.If you become bogged, you most likely will be approached by people eager to help tow your vehicle out.  Be careful that the helpers don't damage your vehicle by attaching a tow line or snatch strap to the wrong part of your car.  Check your manual first for the correct anchor point.FINAL WORDWhen you leave the beach you wash the sand off your feet and body.  The same goes for your car. Give it a thorough clean that includes a vigorous hosing underneath.  A lot of popular beach driving venues have underbody wash facilities nearby.TOP 10 SAND DRIVING TIPS1 Check tide times and drive at low tide.2 Momentum is your friend, so keep revs high.3 Deflate the tyres to about 18-20psi depending on load.4 Use a tyre pressure gauge. Never guess the pressures.5 Be smooth with steering, acceleration and braking.6 Keep your thumbs pointing out from the steering wheel.7 Look ahead for gullies and other obstacles.8 Don't follow other vehicles too closely.9 Obey all normal road rules.10 Watch out for children.SAND DRIVING TESTOur test involved two vehicles not normally associated with beach driving. The Audi Q7's natural environment is the leafy suburbs around private schools.Yet it was launched in Australia a couple of years ago with a gruelling trans-continental drive that included a trip over our biggest sand dune, Big Red, near Birdsville.  As capable as it may be, this stylish luxury SUV attracted some interested looks from holidaymakers and police alike.Those looks turned to sheer bewilderment as the big seven-seater 3.0 TDI model easily ambled through the deepest soft sand, even with a full complement of passengers _ all 500kg of them.That torquey diesel engine is just the sort of beast you need with a full load on board as you hit the soft stuff.  Audi has also helped by fitting decent tyres to this model.The Goodyear Eagle F1 tyres have "SUV 4x4" printed on the sidewalls which means they are made for this sort of terrain.  They are also 235mm wide and have a high 60 per cent profile which means you can drop the tyre pressures from the recommended 44/49psi to the low 20s and make the tyre contact patch even wider. It makes a nice big footprint on the sand.Fuel economy is rated at 9.1L/10km (combined) but with beach driving and seven seats occupied this blew out closer to the official city figures of about 11L/100km.  We also took a Jeep Patriot on the beach.While, Jeeps are not an uncommon sight on the beach, it's usually the Wrangler, Cherokee and Grand Cherokee.  The Patriot is light and skips across the top of the sand, but it's compromised by 203mm of clearance. Lowering the tyre pressures drops that a little bit further.However, the sturdy steel underbody with no plastic bits or fragile protrusions mean it can slide along on its belly without any damage.  It is also shod with sensible rubber for this sort of driving.  The Continental ContiPremiumContact tyres have a 215mm tread width and a 60 per cent profile.And of course, it's a Jeep, so its drive system is dependable.  This comes with the Freedom-Drive active on-demand all-wheel-drive system with a selectable lock-in 4WD mode so you can plough through the softest sand.Another virtue is that the design means the steep windscreen doesn't leave you baking in the sun, so you can turn your airconditioning down or off and use maximum engine power.While torque is not as good as a diesel, the CVT box keeps the revs stirring high, plus the selector mode allows you to quickly chose a lower gear as soon as the soft sand starts draining momentum.Jeep Patriot LimitedPRICE: $36,490ENGINE: 2.4L 4-cylinder petrolPOWER: 125kW @ 6000rpmTORQUE: 220Nm @ 4500rpmTRANSMISSION: CVT with Auto Stick manual shift mode, Freedom-Drive active on-demand with selectable lock 4WD modeTYRES: Continental ContiPremiumContact 215/60 R17ECONOMY: 9.1L/100km (official), 10.5 (tested on sand)Audi Q7 3.0 quattroPRICE: $88,542ENGINE: 2967cc V6 turbo dieselPOWER: 176kW @ 4400rpmTORQUE: 550Nm @ 2000-2250rpmTRANSMISSION: 6-speed automatic with select shiftTYRES: Goodyear Eagle F1 SUV 4x4 235/60 R18ECONOMY: 9.1L/100km (official), 11 (tested on sand)

The temptation to fit so called semi-slicks, also known as R-compound tyres to your high performance road car is strong, especially if it's modified with increased power and dynamic enhancements.Most tyre companies offer semi-slicks that promise optimum grip compared with a standard road tyre. The subtext to that is that they are talking about a motorsport environment - race-track driving.A growing number of sporty car owners are under the mistaken belief that semi-slicks will better suit their car for everyday road use because of the high grip levels they offer.But according to a Toyo Tire Australia spokesperson, "They are chucking money away because semi slicks ride much harder, have limited heat cycles before the rubber 'goes off', wear quicker and take longer to warm up to full grip temperature."It's probably more a case of bragging rights rather than any gain in overall driveability"They would be much better off with performance road tyres such as the Toyo Proxes T1 Sport and have their R-compounds on a second set of rims that can be fitted for competitive events," they said."Semi-slick tyres look more aggressive but it's probably more a case of bragging rights rather than any gain in overall driveability on the street," says Steve.Toyo Tire Australia make the Proxes R888, a semi-slick which the spokesperson says is a good all round medium R-compound tyre suitable for various circuit racing and competition applications particularly on production cars and slightly modified vehicles.They say they are ideal for track day driving and will see plenty of laps without losing grip - right down to the bottom of the tread.We took the spokesperson at their word and fitted a set of R888s to a Mazda MX-5 for a track day super sprint event that comprised eight six-lap "races".Once we arrived at the correct pressure when the tyre is hot (about 32 psi), the R888s hunkered down and did not lose grip once during any session despite lapping in the top 10 on the day against cars with more power some of which had full slick tyres.Though they are made to offer progressive break away that simply did not happen on our track day session. They offered a rock solid feel with quick steering and no noise at all - no squealing as well as stable braking. The car is set up with fairly aggressive steering alignment and even after a full day at the track, the tyres looked good and still ready for the next event.They are good for their intended motorsport purposeThey are legal for driving on public roads and we haven't experience any issues doing just that on the R888s but will be buying a second set of rims soon, promise.The Proxes R888s are CAMS approved for racing and are sanctioned for various production car and historical racing events.The wash up on semi-slicks is that they are good for their intended motorsport purpose.If you never go to the track, buy a set of performance road tyres instead.

Australia is blessed with good long stretches of beach to drive on but driving on beach sand can be a trap for the unwary. Do the right thing, however, and you'll be rewarded with views and locations, even fishing spots, that regualr car drivers will never know.A key to driving on beach sand is maintaining momentum and having tyres roll over the top of the sand, not dig into it. If the sand is soft, keep ther power on to avoid difgfing in or stalling, but not so much power thast lurid wheelspin will digs its own way down.Avoid violent or sudden major moves on the steering wheel; a 4WD can topple over thanks to kitys huigh centre-of-gravitty and tyres that can cut into the sdand, allowing the vehicle to trip. The straighter the steering the better.Big wide arcs for turns are safe. It's an idea to use existing wheel tracks; the sand will be padded down more and give firmer grip. Watch that the sand between those wheel tracks is not too high for the ground clearance of your vehicle. If so, will pay to forge some new tracks; but you'll need more power.An Adenture 4WD spokesperson training school, says the most valuable tool a beach driver can carry is a good tyre gauge."Best type is a quality dial-type of metal construction. Drop a plastic pencil gauge in the sand and forget about accuracy,'' they say. If the sand is very soft and your wheels are struggling to keep up speed and not dig in too much, will need to lower tyre pressures.  This will lengthen the footprint of the tyre, increasing the area to carry the weight without sinking in.Adventure 4WD recommends incrementally reducing pressure, start at placarded pressures and go down in 5psi steps until things run smoothly, but 15 psi is about as low as you'd want to reliably go. Tyres will need to be reinflated as soon as the sand driving is done; an onboard compressor is thus welcomed.If coming off the beach and driving to a servo to reinflate the tyres, drive very slowly  and not far or tyres will be overheated and have as blow-out. At 15 psi you wouldnt want to be going any faster than 25km/h. Reduce weight being carried, and - to help avoid rollovers - especially on the roof rack."If you can't carry it inside the vehicle it shouldn't be there. Any weight upstairs will make a 4WD want to have a lay down and rest,'' says Adventure 4WD. If stopping long on a beach, I always back up to  the high-tide line. This allows the vehicle to move of easier because it is facing downhill, using gavity, and it can use the tracks you made when reversing.Doing a U-turn on a beach needs to be planned. You need a certain amount of speed and power coming through the wheels to maintain momentum; yet not too fast so the vehicle rolls over. Also, 4WDs tend to have large turning circles, so wait until a wide stretch of beach.Avoid making part of the turning arc through wet sand; it can trap a vehicle. It might mean reversing a distance in your own wheel tracks to return to a better spot to turn. Turn downhill to have the benefit of gravity.In any case, its always better to do beach driving just before low tide. You'll have the most beach to work with and if you get stuck, you'll have time to recover the vehicle. If you want a definition of panic, watch a 4WD owner bogged in sand on the beach as the tide is coming in, closer and closer to his wheels.Be aware of tide times for the beach you wish to drive on, and note that some days even a low tide for that day can have water way up the beach, so select a low water day when even the high tides wont impinge much.If doing much distance in sand, keep an eye on engine temperatures; the engine can be working hard at low 'roadspeeds'. Watch for the transmission overheat light if you've got an automatic.It might look like fun on TV, but avoid splashing through seawater. First, you cant see anything under the water and second, the salt will ruin your vehicle. After beach driving, hose the underside of the vehicle, including in the wheel arches and inside the wheels with fresh water put the 4WD on a lawn so as not to waste that water.Obey no go zones, such as in sandhill conservation areas where wheels can disturb vegetation needed to hold the sand. On the beach follow normal road rules, such as keeping to the left of oncoming traffic. And keep greater separation between vehicles.Be aware that some drivers might not want to stop nor even slow because they seek to maintain momentum. Often in sand driving, some wheelspin is needed for progress, so switch out the ESP if the vehicle has such stability and traction control.Some good 4WD vehicles have a sand setting on the terrain selection. On access tracks down on to, and up off, beaches keep a distance from the vehicle in front; if you're too close and it gets stuck, chances are you'll have to stop and become stuck, too. Before taking the access track, make sure nothing is coming the other way along it.Perhaps switch on your headlights as you enter the access track. For part-time 4WDs, engage 4WD at the start of the access track; often the access track, at its beach end, is the hardest part to negotiate in beach driving because it is the most chewed up by wheels of many vehicles before you.Always carry a recovery kit, commonly a snatch-strap, gloves and heavy-rated bow-shackles and know how to use it, including attaching a make-do parachute on th e strap mid-way should it break when under stretch.A bogged vehicle often can be extricated by clearing sand from under the car and in front of the wheels (turn off the engine put on the hand brake before doing this). Avoid wheel spinning deeper into the bog.If one wheel is spinning, try engaging the differential lock.  Or if the vehicle is an older model and does not have a diff lock, an old trick if a rear wheel is spinning while the other is not, is to gently pull on then handbrake.Often the solution is to dig under the chassis where the crown of the track has met the underside of the vehicle. Some soft roaders can be used in beach driving but remember they tend not to have low-range gearing, their ground clearance may not be enough and their undersides can be damaged because they dont have the stouter protection of serious 4WD vehicles.As in any off-bitumen venture, if unsure, get out and walk the terrain first; or, such as at access track at beaches, see what other vehicles are there and how they are coping.

Ever tightening speed limits and heavy road law enforcement has seen a corresponding boom in so called 'track days' where enthusiast drivers take their (usually sporty) car to a race track.