Ask The Guide

This light is designed to warn you that you have the centre differential locked. This diff lock should only be used off-road in limited-grip situations and having the lock engaged on the bitumen will soon break expensive driveline parts. You’d also notice if the diff was engaged as the car would feel very odd to drive with lots of clunks and groans and no desire to be steered normally.

What’s more likely is that the light itself or the sensor that triggers it has a short-circuit that is feeding the wrong information to the body computer which then lights up the warning. By shutting the engine down and restarting it, you’re effectively rebooting the body computer and things go back to normal for a while. An auto electrician would be our first stop.

If by some chance the light is illuminating because the diff lock is, indeed, attempting to chime in, you have a more serious problem as the driveline might well suffer huge damage if the lock managed to actually engage on the highway.

This is a tricky one because the D-Max’s SVS warning light seems to be a bit of an all-rounder. That is, it indicates a fault, but a non-specific one. Certainly not one that can be read by the majority of aftermarket scanning tools. Logic suggests there’s something within the driveline that is getting too hot for the computer’s liking, a theory backed up by the fact that it only triggers when you’re towing a big load and the car is working its hardest.

The solution seems to be to present the car at an Isuzu dealership as this may be the only workshop that will have the D-Max-specific scanning gear to determine the cause or even narrow it down.

For the record, the SVS stands for Service Vehicle Soon, but I’m afraid even that’s a fairly generic recommendation and doesn’t get you any closer to the cause. That said, when engine oil or transmission fluid gets beyond a certain temperature, the computer will often detect this and call for a change of fluids as a means of driveline protection. This could be what’s happening every time you tow.

As with any automatic transmission problem, the first thing to do is check the level of transmission fluid in the gearbox itself. These shouldn’t need top-ups, but if a leak occurs, they can lose enough fluid to play havoc with the gear selection and drive-transmission processes. Low fluid can cause a loss of drive in any gear, but could also contribute to a valve-body problem where the lack of fluid prevents the correct gear selection process. Low fluid can also mean the clutch-packs and bands can not exert enough pressure to get the car moving.

It's worth noting, though, that this particular transmission has a finite lifespan and a loss of third and fourth gears could be the first sign that the unit is worn out and requires either replacement or reconditioning. A transmission specialist should be your first port of all.

The absolute best advice here is to not drive the vehicle any farther and take it straight to the Toyota dealership from which you bought it. This could be anything from a minor to a major problem, but any brand-new car that is not shifting gears smoothly and silently is a cause for concern.

The mechanics might try to convince you that this is something all Klugers do, but don’t be afraid to question that. In fact, since it’s a dealership, get them to take you for a ride in another Kluger of the same specification to see if it makes the same noises. If you’re still not happy and not getting anywhere at dealer level, try Toyota Australia’s customer service department.

The eight-speed automatic in the Kluger is a well known quantity and doesn’t seem to have any inherent weaknesses. Which means anything odd like a vibration or noise needs to be checked out before any further damage is done.

Even though the Toyota Avalon wasn’t particularly big seller, there were still plenty of them made, so second-hand parts shouldn’t be a problem. The best bet is probably to take the broken handle to a parts recycler (we used to call them wrecking yards) and find an Avalon that is being broken up and recycled. That way, you’ll have a pretty good chance of finding a replacement handle that actually fits as well as one in the correct colour to match the rest of your car’s interior.

There are specialist Toyota wreckers (sorry, recyclers) in Perth and surrounds, but even generic wrecking yards are likely to have the odd Avalon lying around ready to donate its door handle. Toyota was also very good at sharing parts between models. So while you’re scratching around the wrecking yard, check to see if the inside door handle from, say, a Toyota Camry or Aurion or similar is interchangeable with your broken one.

Most mechanics will do a complete check up and tune of the engine as part of tracking this problem and it’s a good start, because a new set of spark plugs and plug leads might just fix this problem. But that won’t always be the case. As such, you could be looking at a dud sensor somewhere in the engine bay that is telling the on-board computer to shut things down or, at least, not providing the computer with enough information to keep it all running. For this reason, an electronic scan of the vehicle should also be carried out at the same time to see what fault codes are cropping up.

A prime suspect for this behaviour would be what’s called the engine’s stepper motor which is a small electric motor that controls the throttle body and, therefore, the car’s idle speed. If this motor is maladjusted or faulty, it could cause the engine to either idle roughly, too slowly, or stall altogether. But have the scan done before rushing out to spend money on parts that may or may not be the problem.

Most factory roof bar systems are only designed for light duty stuff and will have a maximum capacity of between about 50kg and 100kg. So, by the time you add your 75kg tent plus whatever humans are going to be sleeping in it, you’d be way over the limit and in real danger of collapsing the whole deal onto the car’s roof panel.

Most people who fit roof-top tents or use that real estate to store things like spare tyres, fuel cans and camping gear, opt for an aftermarket roof-rack system which is much better able to cope with higher loads. Try a four-wheel-drive accessories store in the first instance and remember that to make a roof-top tent as safe as possible, you’ll also need to find a ladder that fits the car properly to get in and out safely.

The good news is the Challenger was and is a popular choice for campers, so you should be able to find what you need on the aftermarket.

First instinct says the clutch is broken and not disengaging properly or at all. If that’s the case, the gearbox internals will be whirring around the whole time the engine is running and will not allow you to select a gear. If the clutch was working properly, you could disengage it, allow the gearbox internals to slow down and this would enable gear selection. That’s – very simply - kind of what a clutch does.

The fact that you can stop the engine (and, therefore, the bits inside the gearbox) select a gear and then restart the engine, also suggests that the clutch is worn or damaged and requires replacement.

Or you might be lucky and this is a simple case of the clutch hydraulics having failed. If that’s the case and the hydraulic system that links the clutch actuating arm to the clutch pedal inside the cabin has failed or seized up or run out of fluid, then you’ll get the same symptoms (because the clutch isn’t disengaging) but in a much cheaper to fix form.

The first thing to check is the level of hydraulic fluid in the clutch’s master cylinder under the bonnet. If it’s low or empty, you may have just found the culprit. Either way, these are sealed systems, so any loss of fluid suggests a leak somewhere. For the record, this model Ford Ranger did have a reputation for noisy clutch release bearings and problems with the clutch slave cylinder, the latter of which could certainly cause a fluid leak.

You won’t void your warranty by having a qualified person look at the car, but since this is Renault’s problem, why would you spend your own money fixing something that should not be occurring in such a new vehicle? If you’re not getting anywhere at dealership level, I would suggest you try Renault Australia’s customer service department. If people went elsewhere every time a dealership mechanic expressed frustration, those same dealerships would be deserted.

Meantime, I’d have to question whether the original problem was incorrectly diagnosed given that new door cards have not stopped the rattle. The fact that the noise starts and stops according to the position of the window makes me wonder if the cause is not a part of the window actuator or its mechanism. If part of the window regulator is rattling against the door card, it might sound as though the door card itself is the problem when it’s actually something else.

The bottom line is this: The car is under a factory warranty designed to protect the owner against problems like this one. Legally, Renault Australia is obliged to fix it. Don’t be put off by surly dealership staff; chances are once they understand you know your rights, they probably won’t be quite so eager to dismiss you.

Just because Proton isn’t selling cars in Australia any longer (the brand disappeared in 2017) doesn’t mean replacement parts can’t be obtained. Even if you can’t find the rocker cover gasket you need in a conventional parts store, there are lots of online sellers (both here and overseas) who can supply what you need.

The engine in your car was hardly an orphan, either, and was found in many other Proton models including the Waja, Gen-2, Persona, Saga, Satria and others, so don’t rule out a search for those models too, as the rocker cover gasket should be interchangeable between them.