Ask The Guide

The temptation is to assume that the car is simply low on AdBlue (an additive that is sprayed into the exhaust of diesel engines to clean up their tailpipe emissions and make them less toxic). When this is depleted, the engine is programmed to warn the driver that the level is low, and then not to restart until the AdBlue has been topped up. This is possibly what the dealership did to remove the warning.

But there’s a chance that the AdBlue injecting system has a fault somewhere and the problem is not as simple as low AdBlue fluid. That’s why the error message has returned. Or, you may simply have a dud sensor that continues to think the AdBlue tank is empty.

If you mean shuddering and vibration when you take off from rest, then you’re possibly experiencing the same problem that many owners of this model Nissan have already reported. The problem is caused by wear in the CVT transmission which is allowing the steel drive belt to slip. As the belt slips and grips and then slips again, the driver experiences less-than-smooth acceleration.

The safety recalls (which were actually technical service bulletins) you’re referring to all occurred within the North American market and haven’t been extended to Australian X-Trails (that I know of). Unfortunately, US consumer law is quite different from ours and consumers have very different rights and obligations.

It would be worth having the car assessed and then approaching Nissan Australia’s customer service department to see if there’s any help on offer. But given the age of the vehicle, I wouldn’t be holding my breath. That said, I totally understand your point of view, and 11 years is probably not a suitable lifespan for a modern automatic transmission, given we’ve been making cars for more than 130 years, and Nissan (in one form or another) for the last 90 of those.

You may have a collection of problems rather than just a single one. The vibration through the steering wheel could simply be the vibrations from the diesel engine travelling up the steering column and into your hands. Does the vibration go away when you rev the engine to just off idle? If so, perhaps an adjustment to the idle speed is all that is required there to move the engine out of its resonant patch.

A vibration in the cabin could be a worn wheel bearing, out-of-balance driveline, a worn torque converter, broken or worn engine mount, broken exhaust mount, damaged tyre, a wheel out of balance and plenty more. But the play in the front driveshaft coupling would be a smart place to start looking. Again, the problem comes and goes because of the harmonic periods inherent in things that spin very quickly. Any out of balance problems can easily show up as transient vibrations inside the car.

There’s every chance this is caused by a small amount of wear and slack in one of the joints in the driveline. If that’s the case, those joints and couplings need to be checked and the worn one(s) replaced, as continuing to drive as it is could see the driveline fail spectacularly at speed.

The reason you feel the jolt on the flat and not when you’re parked on a hill is that the driveline is relaxed on the flat, leaving a little slack for the thump to occur. When parked downhill, gravity has caused the driveline to take up that slack (plus your foot is probably on the brake, preventing the car rocking or moving at all) so the thump can’t occur and, therefore, isn’t felt.

Whether this is a problem or not all depends on how much oil you consider to be too much. There’s an old school of thought that says an internal combustion engine shouldn’t use any engine oil. That’s not actually accurate. A small amount of oil is scraped past the engine’s piston rings and burned every time the engine turns over (which it typically does at anything up to 7000 times a minute). So some reduction in the level of oil in the sump is pretty much inevitable.

Some modern engines also use low friction internal components to make them more fuel efficient and, in some makes and models, this has had the effect of increasing oil consumption. Again, this is perfectly normal and the pay-off is you use less fuel.

Rather than just a drop in oil level, you should be looking at the drop compared with the kilometres you’ve covered. A car that consumes, say, a litre of oil (or even two litres) between its 10,000km oil changes is not a problem at all. Some manufacturers even say a greater level of oil consumption than this is still within acceptable tolerances. Anything up to 1.5 litres per 1000km can still be within a car-maker’s specification.

What you’re really looking for when checking your oil level is any change in the engine’s oil sipping habits. A sudden increase in the amount it normally consumes is when you need to start looking more closely.

That said, if the car is using too much oil, then it’s either being burned in the engine (suggesting worn engine parts) or it’s escaping the engine somehow (otherwise known as a good old-fashioned oil leak). A big patch of oil on the ground where the car is normally parked means you need to go hunting for a leak.

Rain water is very good at getting past rubber seals. So pretty much anywhere where you have a piece of glass (windscreen or side windows) sealed against the rest of the car, you have a potential leak point. But water can also get past other types of rubber seals, including the ones that are supposed to seal the door and hatchback/boot openings. Even a small twig that gets caught on these seals can allow water in during a rain-storm.

The other possibility is that the air-conditioning drain hose is blocked or dislodged. This hose is designed to drain the moisture from the air (which separates when the air-con is used) from the air-con unit in the car to somewhere outside the car. If the drain is blocked or missing, wet carpets are another very real possibility.

But the fact that you had overnight rain before noticing the problem suggests a rubber seal is either dirty, torn or missing or has simply gone hard with age and allowing the rain in. Start with the windscreen and work your way back. A good way to find the leak is to sit in the car while somebody sprays it with a garden hose. From inside, you might see the drips of water as they make their way in.

Actually, it’s none of those things. This model Pulsar came with the option of a six-speed manual. But if it was an automatic Pulsar, it was fitted not with a conventional automatic, but with a CVT or Constantly Variable Transmission. Instead of a series of gears inside it, the CVT uses cones of different diameters linked by a flexible belt. By altering where on the cones the belt rides, the gearbox can produce different 'gears'.

The idea is that by providing an infinite number of ratios, the engine can always run closer to its most efficient speed, therefore improving fuel efficiency. It’s a great theory, but not all drivers like the sound and feel of a CVT which can feel pretty alien, especially at first. Some manufacturers, in an attempt to make the CVT feel more familiar, electronically engineer in fixed `ratios’ but, in reality, this removes some of the CVT’s efficiency-boosting potential.

Any time you have a burning smell in a car, you have a potential fire. If something is hot enough that you can smell it, it’s possibly hot enough to burst into flames, especially if it contacts a fuel or oil leak somewhere on the car.

The fact that the smell occurs when going uphill suggests that it’s something in the driveline (engine or transmission) that’s getting hot because it’s working hard. It could also be a cable or hose that’s incorrectly routed too close to something that’s getting hot (like the exhaust) and causing the smell. In any case, the answer to your question is no, it’s not normal and it needs investigating.

Sometimes, a new exhaust system will create the odd strange smell as it heats up the first couple of times this shouldn’t be happening after 9000km. You need to take the car back to where you bought it from and have the dealership fix this before a real fire takes hold, or something important melts and stops working.

The dual-clutch transmission in your Touareg is a wet-clutch design and, therefore, much more robust than the dry-clutch version that caused VW so much angst when it was introduced many years ago. However, even the wet-clutch unit has been known to have its problems, and the symptoms you’ve described tend to point towards worn clutch packs or the electronics that control them.

Any time a dual-clutch transmission shudders or thumps, is cause to have it scanned to check the operation of these clutch packs. It’s also likely that a cold transmission will amplify these symptoms. A VW dealer can carry out this test and the results will give you a much better idea of what’s going on inside the transmission.

If it is a fault with the transmission, it should be covered by the new-car warranty. But make sure the dealer logs it with head office. That makes it a pre-existing condition so that, even if the warranty runs out, it’s still VW’s problem to fix as the problem first occurred during the warranty period.

There’s a bit to unpack here. The first is that the D-Max is rated to safely tow 3.5 tonnes, so it’s not as if you constantly have the vehicle overloaded in terms of what it’s towing.

But if you also have the tray full of gear as well as 2.3 tonnes of caravan on the hitch, you might find that you’ve been inadvertently running overloaded for most of the time. It happens more than you think. At which point, the Pedders specialist is right; you need a suspension upgrade.

Even then, however, you still need to stay within the manufacturer’s maximum GCM (Gross Combination Mass) and the GVM (Gross Vehicle Mass) to stay legal. You can sometimes officially upgrade the GVM with a suspension upgrade that’s been properly engineered, tested and approved (which Pedders is a specialist in) but the GCM is generally not able to be upgraded according to the law in each state and territory.

But none of this explains why a vehicle designed to two 3.5 tonnes is wearing out its rear springs with 2.3 tonnes hitched up. Is the tow-ball down-weight within the legal limit (usually 10 per cent of the weight of the towed load)? Incorrect loading in this manner could affect the springs. Perhaps a fully-loaded visit to an accredited weighbridge might net more answers.

However, if it’s a simple case of the springs wearing out prematurely, then it’s possibly Isuzu’s problem to fix under warranty. Perhaps there was a bad batch of springs fitted at the factory that is affecting your vehicle and others built at the same time. Stranger things have happened.