Ask The Guide

If you’re referring to the lower flog lights on the Foton, access can be gained from behind the bumper. Follow the wiring to where it disappears inside the light mount and remove the globes from there.

For the actual headlights, the globes can be replaced, but it’s a bit fiddlier. You need to remove the plastic twist-lock covers at the back of each headlight to gain access to the globes, but to do that you need to remove the battery on one side and the air-box on the other.

Don’t forget, when changing globes, not to touch the glass part with your fingers. This can leave an oily residue (from your skin) on the glass which forms a hot-spot and can lead to the globe failing prematurely.

On the surface, you’d probably start looking at the car’s fuel system. A diesel, even a modern one, is controlled largely by how much fuel is being pumped into it and at what pressure. If the fuel pump is slack or the injectors, filters or lines are faulty or leaking, you might find that there’s simply not enough fuel to keep it revving on beyond that 2200rpm.

But you could also be looking at an exhaust problem, a partially blocked intake system, dirty air filter, or even a worn out turbocharger. A mechanic who is familiar with this make and model is going to have the best chance of diagnosing what’s wrong. Chances are yours is not the first vehicle to do this, and a specialist mechanic has possibly seen it all before.

Believe it or not, 17 litres is on the high side of things, but not out of the question in a Kluger that is driven exclusively in stop-start urban traffic. I know the official fuel consumption figure for the car is 11L/100km, but there are a few things to keep in mind with that. The first is that this is a combined urban/highway figure, so it will always be lower than the urban number. Also, this figure is achieved on a test that actually bears very little relationship with driving in the real world.

You need to keep in mind that this is a relatively large petrol engine, hauling a hefty (1900kg-plus) car around. If your Kluger is the all-wheel-drive version, there’s also a fair bit of driveline friction to overcome. Even when cruising down a highway, this will never be a frugal vehicle as the aerodynamics mean it’s moving an awful lot of air at 100km/h. Don’t forget, either, that driving style has a huge effect on how much fuel you use.

If you’re concerned, have the car tuned and serviced. Fresh spark plugs and clean filters might make a difference to your fuel use.

You might find you have two separate problems here. The plastic clip is one thing, but there’s no way a passenger seat would be locked into place with a plastic component. It will almost certainly involve a metal ring or clasp mounted to the floor around which the locking mechanism on the seat locks.

Here’s a possibility, though: perhaps the broken piece of plastic from the broken clip has somehow managed to work its way into the seat locking mechanism and is not allowing the seat to fully clamp into position. Fold the seat up and have a good look around at the clamps or locking rings in the floor. Even if it’s not the errant piece of plastic, you might find a build up of dust or mud is not allowing the seat to find its locked position.

The other chance is that the locking mechanism has somehow closed onto itself before it has found the locking ring. If that’s the case, you may be able to take a screwdriver and pry the lock open before trying to lock the seat back into place. Be careful, however, as these locking mechanisms are often spring loaded and will crush a finger placed in the wrong spot.

A powertrain warning light can be triggered for literally hundreds of reasons. So there’s no point trying to guess what’s wrong here. Instead, have the vehicle electronically scanned at a workshop and see if the on-board computer can shed any light on what components or systems are at fault.

Theoretically, the computer should have logged the cause each time the warning light has flashed on. During a scan, these faults will show up as a series of fault codes which the mechanic will be able to decipher to get a good idea of what’s wrong. Without this information, you could be chasing up blind alleys for weeks and months.

The other thing you can do is make a note of what the vehicle is doing when the light comes on. For instance, if the warning light flicks on when you’re towing, you may have a driveline overheating issue.

Any time a diesel engine produces black smoke, it’s doing so because too much fuel is entering the engine. The danger then is that the engine will start to run hot and that can cause all sorts of meltdowns. But combined with a knocking noise, black smoke can also signal serious internal engine damage.

The best advice is to not drive it any farther and get a diesel specialist to look at it. Diesel engines often make a knocking noise as a normal part of their operation, but if this noise has changed, then something’s wrong.

This problem could be caused by any number of things to do with the fuel or ignition system, or even a sensor that is not giving the on-board computer the information it needs to light the fire. But since your car is now almost 20-years-old, there’s a very good chance that the problem is a fuel pump that has simply stopped working. These pumps have a finite lifespan, and when they stop, they often just quit on the spot, leaving you stranded.

The other possibility in a Pajero is that the crank-angle sensor has failed. Without this functioning, the computer cannot determine which cylinder it should be firing when, and that will also put a stop to play. It’s a relatively common Pajero thing.

You could have a fault with the car’s wiring. The starter-motor takes its power from the fat, red and black leads that attach to the battery, but it also needs a low-voltage signal from the ignition key that tells it to do its thing. If there’s any sort of loose or missing wire, you might not be making the necessary electrical connections. You could also find that there’s an on-board security system that is blocking the starter-motor from turning. You could even find that the ignition key has a flat battery and is not unlocking the car’s on-board computer.

You say that the battery has voltage, but I wonder how you checked this. You can often put a multimeter across the battery terminals and see 12 volts, but this can be what’s called a surface charge that’s strong enough to light up the dashboard, but then disappears when you put the battery under load (by trying to start the car). Attach the multimeter and check the voltage while actually trying to start the engine. You may find you have a dead battery after all.

When you look at how the Park setting works in an automatic transmission, you can see how this could happen. Basically, Park is engaged by a small pin that (typically) slides into the transmission’s output shaft and locks it, preventing the shaft from turning and effectively locking the drive wheels.

The problem is that the Park pin (also called a pawl) is almost comically small for the job it has to do. The point being that Park pawls have been known to fail, at which point, the car will be free to move if the park brake isn’t applied.

Best practice when parking an automatic car is to stop where you want to park, but leave the transmission in Drive and apply the foot brake. Then apply the park-brake, take your foot off the brake and let the park brake take the weight of the car. Then select Park. You’ll still have the security of being in Park, but you won’t have the car’s weight resting on that little park pawl.

You might be lucky and simply have a low transmission fluid level thanks to a leak, or perhaps even a selector that is not properly connected to the transmission.

But the fact that the transmission works in Reverse but not Drive suggests something internally wrong. You could be looking at a broken torque converter, failed clutch or band, a faulty pump, blocked valve body or even a broken gear set. A transmission specialist is going to be your best bet here.