Nissan Problems

The X-Trail of that era has an unbraked towing limit of 750kg and a braked limit of 2000kg. On that basis, the short answer is yes, you need to have brakes on your caravan.

But the detail is a little more involved. While you do need a braked trailer (caravan in your case) for the Nissan to handle 960kg safely, those brakes don't necessarily need to be the electric variety. A simpler mechanical braking system would also be acceptable and should work fine on a relatively light van such as the one you've described.

Mechanical brakes are preferred by some users who like the fact that the trailer in question can be used on any car with the required towing limit. In the case of electric brakes, a control unit has to be fitted to the tow-vehicle. That gets a bit complicated and is an extra cost. Larger caravan (over 2000kg GTM) need electric brakes, but mechanical brakes are fine for smaller, lighter vans.

There are many reasons, some mechanical, some electrical, why a vehicle won't select four-wheel-drive when the driver requests it. But the first thing we'd check would be the electrical connections from the rotary dial on the dashboard and the mechanical components that dial controls.

In the old days, four-wheel-drive was selected by mechanical levers that moved the internal bits of the transfer case to the correct position to engage the front driveshaft and, in turn, the front differential and axles. But in your Pathfinder (and many other makes and models) manufactures started using electrical switches instead of actual levers. The idea was that by electrically controlling this function, there was less effort required from the driver. The reality is that these dials are as susceptible to electrical gremlins as any other part of the car.

Check the fuses that protect the selection dial and if that's not the problem, have the rotary dial itself checked for faults.

You've certainly gone to some extremes to check this out, but your investigations should give you a good clue that the problem is with front axle. So, it could either be the differential that is clattering and making the car judder or, perhaps more likely, the front CV joints which allow the car to drive its front axle while also steering the vehicle. Once you take the load off the front driveshafts (by disconnecting them) the noise stops because the worn CV joints aren't taking the strain of trying to move the car, so they don't make the horrible noise.

In some cases, you can simply replace the worn out CV joints, but there's also the option of complete driveshafts (with new CV joints already fitted) that are a simpler fix if a bit more costly. You can also buy driveshafts new or reconditioned. Its sounds like you're more than skilled enough to tackle this at home.

The Murano is typical of modern Nissans by being a pretty reliable thing by all accounts. The V6 engine, in particular, has a good reputation for trouble-free performance and is widely regarded as a tough unit capable of plenty of kilometres before needing major work.

However, in reality, the Murano has an on-demand all-wheel-drive system, meaning that for the majority of the time, it operates as a front-wheel-drive vehicle. The rear axle only engages when the vehicle detects wheel-slip or the engine is producing enough torque for the rear wheels to join in. That may or may not suit your needs, and it will all depend on what you expect from all-wheel-drive.

The major concerns for some buyers would revolve around the fairly complex driveline used in the Murano. That on-demand all-wheel-drive system used a coupling that engaged the rear axle when the conditions required it. That rear coupling can give problems, beginning with a clunking noise under load. The other concern is more of a general wariness of constantly variable transmissions (CVT) which have been known to have shorter lifespans than conventional gearboxes. That said, the Nissan's isn't a know hot spot for trouble, but it definitely needs to be inspected before money changes hands.

Perhaps the most important thing – as it is with any second-hand car – is the service record. If you can't find solid evidence of the correct preventative maintenance being carried out, the car could easily be a can of worms, regardless of make or model.

This sounds a lot like a faulty ignition barrel or an electronic key that has a semi-flat battery. A worn barrel can often prevent the necessary contacts meeting to complete the ignition circuit and, likewise, an electronic key without sufficient power can also give these symptoms as it struggles to enable the ignition. This can be a very hit and miss thing, which is just how you've described it.

So check the condition of the battery inside the key and perhaps the condition of the car's battery as well. If the situation gets worse, a trip to the auto electrician is probably in order. At least your STS model has a relatively conventional ignition key set-up, rather than the push-button, proximity key of the SSS model which brings another layer of complexity to this function.

You haven't given me much to go on with here, Noel. Without the year and specification of your Navara, I can't even guess if it was fitted with a DPF or not. That's because Nissan has had a bit of an on-again-off-again relationship with DPF technology. To the extent that in some versions of the Navara, the automatic variant had a DPF and the manual did not.

But you can check for yourself by taking a look under the car. A DPF looks a bit like a muffler, but with a couple of metal pipes coming out of it and usually an electrical connection or two. Some of this stuff may be hidden behind heat shields, however. In most cases the Navara's DPF will be located in the middle section of the exhaust system, roughly beneath the front passenger's seat.

Running over a piece of old fencing wire is not uncommon on farms and regional areas and, as you’ve discovered, it can do a lot of damage if it gets wrapped around a moving part. It sounds as though the inner CV joint is badly damaged and that’s allowing the axle to `float’ in and out of its proper position.

If you’re lucky, a replacement CV joint might be all that’s required. But a word of caution: Don’t attempt to drive the vehicle as it is. If the axle jumps ship from the differential completely, it can flail about under the vehicle, causing all sorts of expensive damage.

The towing limit on this model Navara varies enormously according to what engine and transmission is fitted. As a result, the Gross Combination Mass (GCM) also varies a lot between models. As such, the 2.4-litre petrol Navara has a GCM of 4230kg, the V6 petrol a GCM of 4850 and the turbo-diesel is much higher at 5920kg.

Don't forget, the GCM includes the vehicle, whatever it's towing and everything else on board, including fuel, accessories and even passengers.

All Nissan models officially sold in Australia with a build-date later than 2004 can use ethanol blended fuel with up to 10 per cent ethanol content. That can reduce fuel costs, because E10 fuel is usually cheaper at the pump. Bear in mind, however, that you might use a little more E10 than non-blended fuel because of the slightly lower energy content of E10.

Beyond that, your X-Trail requires regular petrol with an octane rating of 91, which is pretty much the normal brew on any service-station forecourt. You can use higher octane fuels without harming the car, but there would be little to no benefit in doing so. And your wallet will thank you for not bothering.

Worn glow-plugs will certainly make a diesel engine difficult to start and can easily contribute lots of smoke to the equation. But in reality, you could be looking at anything from worn or dribbling injectors, a blocked air-intake system, a worn fuel pump or simply internal wear in the engine itself. A worn turbocharger bearing or seal can also cause these problems, and don't forget about the simple stuff like a blocked fuel filter.

Trying to diagnose turbo-diesel engine problems from the colour of the smoke emitted is a hiding to nowhere and you'll inevitably find yourself changing perfectly good parts on a hunch and wasting lots of time and money. The best bet is to take the car to a diesel specialist and have the whole system investigated.