Are you having problems with your Kia? Let our team of motoring experts keep you up to date with all of the latest Kia issues & faults. We have gathered all of the most frequently asked questions and problems relating to the Kia in one spot to help you decide if it's a smart buy.
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Some oil consumption is normal for engines, and modern engines seem to use a little more than some older designs. That's because modern engines are designed with low-friction piston rings which are great for fuel economy but can lead to slightly higher oil consumption. However, 700ml per 1000km does seem high for what is not an especially high-performance engine, and one that has not travelled very far in the scheme of things.
It wouldn't be the first time a dealer (of any brand) has tried to fob off a customer concern with such a response, so I reckon you're on the right track by contacting Kia Australia's customer service division. I'd also follow up with a phone call as well as an email, but experience suggests Kia is one company that takes customer satisfaction seriously.
Your car is still covered by the factory seven-year warranty, so provided it's been serviced correctly, if there is a fault, it should be covered. Further investigation is warranted, including a compression and leak-down test to show if there's any deterioration in the performance of the engine's piston rings. Your local state motoring club is a good source for these tests, particularly as manufacturers tend to take the clubs and their mechanical inspections seriously.
You're on the right track with looking at the camshaft-angle sensor. But rather than the actual sensor itself, the problem is likely to be within the wiring that connects the sensor to the car's computer. Without a good, solid condition, the best sensor in the world can't relay the information that the computer needs to command the engine to start.
The next step is a visit to an auto electrician who should be able to test the cam-sensor circuit and check for problems with fuses, wires, connectors and any other component that could be causing the information breakdown.
It all depends on what you mean by faulty. If the rack has wear in it and isn’t as tight or responsive as it should be, then it will continue to wear out further (and eventually fail) but shouldn’t affect the car beyond that. If, however, you mean the rack is dangerously loose or about to break or come apart at some crucial point, you stand to destroy the car in a crash and perhaps injure yourself or someone else. Or worse.
Fundamentally, there’s no margin for error with a car’s steering. If it’s not right, the car should not be driven at all and should be fixed properly before it hits the road again. Provided you can find a second-hand steering rack with no wear and in perfect condition, then it should be fine to use. But again, don’t take chances with any of this. And make doubly sure there’s no damage to the rack and its fittings such as from a previous crash. Ask yourself why the original car donated this second-hand steering rack in the first place.
I reckon an early Kia Carnival would make a great platform for a vanlife adventure. It's very unlikely there's a lot of wiring inside the door, and the only electrical wiring that leaps to mind might be a courtesy light for when you open the sliding door, and the little switch that controls it. So, try to find that switch (it's probably down low near the floor) and see if you can see where any wiring enters or leaves the door via the door jamb. Don't expect to see actual wires, as they probably run inside a black rubber boot or sheath to protect them.
Again, it's very unlikely that there's wiring high up in the door near the window (which is where you need to curtain) but if you drill carefully and check the hole for any coloured wiring just as you punch through the metal, you should be fine. A strong torch will help with this, and disconnect the car's battery before drilling just in case you get mighty unlucky.
This is a really common type of question here at CarsGuide. It seems a lot of car-makers are using these speed warning systems and, in many cases, they’re more of an annoyance than a help.
In your Kia, speed sign recognition which is part of the adaptive cruise-control feature is the culprit. When the car’s cameras spot a speed sign, they compare that info with how fast the car is actually going (sometimes using co-ordinate information from the sat-nav as well). Sometimes, however, the sign detected relates to a side-street or roadworks on a side street, giving you a false alarm. Either way, not everybody likes this warning system.
There’s good news and bad news in the case of your car, Steve. The good news is that you can go into the menu system, select Driver Assistance, then Vehicle Settings, then Speed Alert, and you should find an Off setting that should disable the warning. The bad news is, you have to do this every time you start the car, because the default setting is On.
Perhaps the dealer can suggest a way of turning it off permanently since it appears as though a software update at your first service has enabled the system since you bought the car.
There are two things you need to do. The first is to have the vehicle independently inspected. The RACV is very good for this as it has the resources and a reputation that the car industry respects. Once you've found out what really went wrong (as opposed to what the dealership may have told you on the spot) you can proceed. This will inform what happens next.
If the engine failure was not the cause of a poorly fitted oil filter and was something to do with a manufacturing or materials flaw, then you have a case for a warranty claim. Bypass Kia's dealer network and contact the brand's customer service division at head office.
If, however, the failure was caused by a lack of attention by the mechanic who carried out the last service, then the responsibility may rest with them. Mechanical workshops often have insurance to cover them against this sort of mistake but, regardless, if your mechanic was at fault, the problem becomes theirs in many cases.
A modern vehicle like the Kia has a range of engine protection and warning systems to prevent this sort of thing happening. It seems strange that you didn't receive a dashboard warning regarding low oil level or low oil pressure in the moments before the engine failed.
CarsGuide tested the Kona Hybrid late last year (you can check out the review and video here) and came to exactly the same conclusion: That the car was great around the city, but lacked a bit of overtaking oomph at highway speeds.
This will not be a problem for many owners who will possibly never need to overtake on a country road, but for those who do, perhaps there are better choices out there.
Your comparison with the petrol Captiva is a valid one, too. On paper, this car had plenty of urge, but the power was all stacked way up in the higher rev ranges and required some forward planning when overtaking.
All Kias sold in Australia and built after 1996 can use E10 fuel. But your car will be just as happy on standard ULP with its 91 RON octane rating.
You won't notice any difference between the two fuels apart from perhaps a slightly higher fuel consumption when using the E10. That's because the ethanol content of the fuel has less energy in it than normal petrol. But there's really not much in it and the extra E10 you'll use will be offset by the cheaper per-litre cost compared with ULP.
The fact that you've used E10 will not alter the retained value or desirability to of your car to a potential buyer one bit.
This could be a coincidence whereby your maintenance was timed perfectly with something else going wrong. But if we assume that the new fuel filter is what has caused the no-start condition, then the first thing to check is that you've installed the filter in the correct orientation. Many filters only operate in one direction. Install it backwards, and the fuel may not flow at all, which would give you the symptoms you're now looking at.
A shaking through the steering when you apply the brakes is often caused by brake rotors which have warped. Imagine spinning a bicycle wheel with a buckle in it. In a micro sense, that's what a warped brake rotor is doing. When that happens, they fight against the force of the brake calipers and that leads to the shaking you're feeling. You're right not to feel safe as the car is definitely not safe in this condition.
Sometimes the brake rotors can be machined to make them true again, but other times a replacement set of rotors is the fix. Don't forget to get your mechanic to change the brake pads when they fit the new rotors, as new rotors can be compromised by old pads.