Hyundai Problems

If you’re lucky, the problem might be as simple as a blown fuse that controls these circuits. So that’s where to start checking. The instrument panel lights and rear fog lights in the Hyundai are on separate circuits, so you’ll need to locate both fuses. Start with the internal fuse box located low down on the dashboard near the steering column. The inside of the cover will have a map of which fuse does what, but don’t forget there’s also a second fuse box under the bonnet.

If the problem is not a blown fuse, or the fuse blows again once you’ve changed it, you’ll probably need to services of an auto electrician to figure out where the power is going and what’s the cause. A poor earth somewhere on the car or a short circuit are two likely culprits.

Glad to hear you've had such a great run with your car. I understand what a great safety device a reverse camera is, and if it was standard fitment in your car when it was new, it could very well be a roadworthy item if it's not working. However, I wouldn't be too worried as the GPS and bluetooth functions should not be related to the reverse camera or the cruise-control.

If the reverse camera screen ever went on the blink, you could fairly cheaply add a replacement aftermarket unit which would also restore your Bluetooth and possibly even your GPS functions.

There doesn't seem to be a huge number of similar complaints to yours, Len, but that's pretty cold comfort. You could have a problem with the transmission itself or the electronics that control it. Either way, it could be that the transmission is stuck in high gear as a form of limp-home mode to avoid doing any further damage to itself.

The first step is to have the vehicle scanned for fault codes. Sometimes, a fault will be logged that seems to have nothing to do with the symptom, but can still cause the havoc you're experiencing. Try a transmission specialist first, as it's a fair bet they will have seen this exact problem once or twice before.

This was a huge problem for manufacturers back when turbo-diesels first started using Diesel Particulate Filters (DPF). The problems started when owners were using their diesel-powered vehicles just as they had their previous petrol cars. That is, for short, urban journeys where the exhaust system never got hot enough to perform a DPF regeneration (which is critical to the way these filters reduce tailpipe emissions).

To counter that, some manufacturers programmed the engine to dump extra fuel into the exhaust to get it hot enough for a DPF regeneration. Inevitably, however, sometimes some of that extra fuel found its way past the piston rings and into the engine's sump. And suddenly, there was more oil in the sump one day than had been there the previous day.

The problem there was that the diesel now in the sump was actually diluting the engine's lubricating oil, and that could lead to accelerated engine wear and bearing failure. The best solution – then and now – is to make sure you drive the vehicle at freeway speeds for at least an hour every three or four weeks. That will get things hot enough for the DPF to regenerate if it has to, and not rely on the extra diesel the computer will pour into the engine.

You could be looking at a specific DPF problem or maybe a software glitch that is messing up the regeneration, but if the level on the dipstick is rising, then I'd say that's your problem.

Hyundai has had a few problems over the years with some of its engines developing piston slap, scoring cylinder bores and consuming excess oil. The later engine fitted to your car should be better, but it seems perhaps the problem is still occurring in some cars.

The reality is that two litres of engine consumed over just 1200km is way beyond the pale. I would be contacting Hyundai Australia's customer service division to see what can be done. The company's response will have a lot to do with how many kilometres the car has covered and whether its service history is complete. But in my experience, Hyundai takes its responsibilities in this area very seriously.

Broadly speaking, diesel engines have longer life expectancies than their petrol equivalents. That's because the typical diesel has to be more strongly engineered to cope with its inherently higher compression ratio and heavier moving parts, which also means it runs slower with less stress.

However, the advent of turbocharging and higher diesel engine speeds have also seen some lighter duty diesel engines lose some of that under-stressed longevity, meaning that they're not living as long as some old-school, slow-revving, under-stressed diesels. Modern changes including DPF technology, exhaust gas recirculation (for emissions) and single-rail, high-pressure injection have also contributed to shorter working lifespans in some diesels.

In any case, the life you will get out of any engine is directly related to how well it's been serviced and maintained throughout that life. A petrol engine treated to proper servicing will easily outlast a diesel that has been neglected and abused. As for the Hyundai petrol engine in your van, the rule of thumb says you should be aiming for at least 200,000km before spending any meaningful money on repairs. Again, though, this is entirely dependent on regular maintenance.

Glad to hear you've had such a great run with your car. I understand what a great safety device a reverse camera is, and if it was standard fitment in your car when it was new, it could very well be a roadworthy item if it's not working. However, I wouldn't be too worried as the GPS and bluetooth functions should not be related to the reverse camera or the cruise-control.

If the reverse camera screen ever went on the blink, you could fairly cheaply add a replacement aftermarket unit which would also restore your Bluetooth and possibly even your GPS functions.

CarsGuide tested the Kona Hybrid late last year (you can check out the review and video here) and came to exactly the same conclusion: That the car was great around the city, but lacked a bit of overtaking oomph at highway speeds.

This will not be a problem for many owners who will possibly never need to overtake on a country road, but for those who do, perhaps there are better choices out there.

Your comparison with the petrol Captiva is a valid one, too. On paper, this car had plenty of urge, but the power was all stacked way up in the higher rev ranges and required some forward planning when overtaking.

The engine in a modern car has inbuilt protection where it won't rev beyond what is safe for it. So you needn't worry about that. But a vehicle that wants to hold gears too long can become tiring to drive, as well as using more fuel than it might if its shifted gears at lower engine speeds.

Your car has what are called drive modes which tailor the aggressiveness of the throttle and alter gearshift points to tailor the car's behaviour in different conditions. My suspicion is that your car is set on Sport which is what's making it feel a bit hyperactive. There's a switch on the centre console which will allow you to change the Drive mode to Comfort or Normal. Try that to see if it tames the gearbox's behaviour.

The engine in a modern car has inbuilt protection where it won't rev beyond what is safe for it. So you needn't worry about that. But a vehicle that wants to hold gears too long can become tiring to drive, as well as using more fuel than it might if its shifted gears at lower engine speeds.

Your car has what are called drive modes which tailor the aggressiveness of the throttle and alter gearshift points to tailor the car's behaviour in different conditions. My suspicion is that your car is set on Sport which is what's making it feel a bit hyperactive. There's a switch on the centre console which will allow you to change the Drive mode to Comfort or Normal. Try that to see if it tames the gearbox's behaviour.