Hyundai Problems

If you’re lucky, the problem might be as simple as a blown fuse that controls these circuits. So that’s where to start checking. The instrument panel lights and rear fog lights in the Hyundai are on separate circuits, so you’ll need to locate both fuses. Start with the internal fuse box located low down on the dashboard near the steering column. The inside of the cover will have a map of which fuse does what, but don’t forget there’s also a second fuse box under the bonnet.

If the problem is not a blown fuse, or the fuse blows again once you’ve changed it, you’ll probably need to services of an auto electrician to figure out where the power is going and what’s the cause. A poor earth somewhere on the car or a short circuit are two likely culprits.

Whenever you see a bunch of problems all occurring at once, the car’s body computer becomes a prime suspect. This computer is what controls functions such as door locking, power mirrors and windows, the anti-theft measures, cruise-control, lighting, wipers, powered seats, the dashboard and much, much more. All these functions can go haywire or stop working altogether (and all at once) when the body computer says it’s had enough.

Since your car has electrically controlled steering, the body computer will have a say in that as well, which could explain the weird noises. But either way, you shouldn’t drive the vehicle any farther. Any noises or strange symptoms in a car’s steering could mean a sudden loss of control at the worst possible moment.

Each radio unit has a different code as a means of preventing them being stolen (or, at least, making them worthless if they were stolen). The best place to start looking for that individual code is inside the owner’s manual. Often, the dealer that sold the car new will have recorded the code, say, on the back of a business card or somewhere inside the manual or its folder, for future reference. And, yes, recording the code somewhere in the glove-box does tend to negate the value of having a secret code in the first place.

If you can’t find the code there, my understanding is that the dealer who sold the car new (information that should also be in the owner’s manual or service handbook) will have a record of all the codes to all the radios in cars sold by them. The catch is that you have to know the serial number of the actual radio before this can be checked. To do that, the radio will need to be removed from the dashboard and the serial number noted.

Various systems randomly turning themselves on or staying powered up when the car is otherwise turned off often point to a fault with the body computer which controls literally hundreds of functions. Obviously, the power steering should shut down with the rest of the car so, as the master control unit, the body computer is where many mechanics would start looking.

Whether the same fault is also causing the ESP light to come on is another matter, but it’s possible both problems are connected. Again, the body computer is a likely culprit. Have the car scanned to see what and how many individual fault codes are thrown up. That’s the best way to proceed in this case.

Taking your car to a Hyundai dealer is a fabulous idea because you might just find that this will turn into a warranty claim where Hyundai foots the bill and not you. Theoretically, your car could still be covered by its original five-year warranty (depending on what date it was sold new) but some Hyundai cars were also covered by extra warranty and extended drivetrain warranties. This is what you need to establish, but a Hyundai dealer will be able to give you the answer.

If you’ve just bought a new car, it’s very important to discover what recalls have been issued for it over the years and whether those fixes have been attended to.

My list of recalls for this model Hyundai iX35 includes one for a seat-belt tensioner cable that was not attached properly, one for an air-bag retention nut that was incorrectly torqued and could cause the air-bag to deploy incorrectly, one for a transmission cooler hose problem on automatic versions, one for a potential fuel hose leak and a fifth recall for a potential engine oil leak on the 2.4-litre petrol variant.

When an engine blows thick white (or bluish-white) smoke, it’s often a sign of internal engine wear. Some Hyundai engines have had problems with major engine components developing premature wear and causing similar problems to the ones you’ve experienced. But some Hyundai engines of this era also suffered problems with the EGR valve (exhaust gas regulation, part of the emissions control system) and that could lead to similar problems.

The best advice is to have the vehicle inspected for internal wear or any other problems that could be causing the smoking under load situation. This is pretty back to basics stuff and would include a compression test and leak-down test and should be well within the capabilities of any decent workshop. From there, you can make a more informed decision on whether to spend the money to have the car fixed, or cut your losses and move on.

It's also worth mentioning that Hyundai has been very pro-active in helping out owners who have experienced premature engine-wear problems, but the age of your car plays against this. It would be worth contacting Hyundai’s customer service division, however.

CarsGuide tested the Kona Hybrid late last year (you can check out the review and video here) and came to exactly the same conclusion: That the car was great around the city, but lacked a bit of overtaking oomph at highway speeds.

This will not be a problem for many owners who will possibly never need to overtake on a country road, but for those who do, perhaps there are better choices out there.

Your comparison with the petrol Captiva is a valid one, too. On paper, this car had plenty of urge, but the power was all stacked way up in the higher rev ranges and required some forward planning when overtaking.

What has happened is that the gas struts that are designed to help you raise the weight of the tailgate and then hold it in place have lost some of their gas. As such, they’re no longer able to support the weight of the tailgate and that’s why it’s randomly falling to earth, risking trapping your hands or other body parts in the process.

The solution is to replace the struts. These are available from parts stores and plenty of online sellers and shouldn’t cost too much. They're not difficult to fit yourself, but a mechanic wouldn’t charge too much to fit them either. Once they’re fitted, the tailgate should be perfectly safe to use again.

Many cars also use these struts for the bonnet, too, and they’re a common failure. Just make sure you get the precise strut for your make and model as they vary in length and in how much weight they’re designed to support.

The Grandeur was Hyundai’s first serious crack at a large luxury car. The V6 engine and automatic transmission seem pretty sound over time, but the kilometres on this example are right up there. Any car with this many kilometres could be a candidate for new suspension, new brakes and who knows what else. So, what may seem on the surface like a bargain (the average price is closer to $6000 or $7000) might not be the case if you have to scrap the car in a year or so because it needs too many repairs.

Then again, at the price, you’re not throwing away the national debt, are you? So perhaps, if you trust your mate, it’s worth a punt, but only if you can comfortably afford to walk away from it if it goes wrong.