Ford Problems

If the vehicle is running at all, then the fuel pump is working, It’s that simple. And while you’ve changed the pump twice in recent times, have you also replaced the pick-up tube that dangles from the pump and reaches down into the deepest depths of the fuel tank?

Sometimes, these tubes can split (and the split can be hard to see) allowing the pump to suck air rather than fuel if the split is exposed. Which could mean that your car, when parked on a slope sufficient to cover with fuel the split in the pick-up, started no problem. But, when parked on the flat and the fuel in the tank allowed to pool away from the pick-up tube, the split was exposed and the pump was sucking air again. It sounds like a long shot, but it has definitely happened before today.

I'd say you're looking at two different problems here, neither one of which involves the actual fuel tank (which is, indeed, 55 litres). The first problem is more likely to be the calibration of your fuel gauge that is out. If the gauge isn't reading accurately, it will tell you the tank is emptier (or fuller) than it really is. Your car is actually doing what most fuel gauges do, which is to be a bit pessimistic, suggesting there's not as much fuel still in the tank as there really is. You could have the gauge recalibrated, or simply know that even when the needle is at empty, you've still got a buffer zone of fuel remaining.

The fuel consumption, meanwhile, is another issue and it's true to say that 20 litres for 140km of driving is too thirsty. A basic tune up might help, starting with fuel filters, air cleaners and spark plugs. But don't ignore things like correct tyres pressures and whether there's a roof rack fitted; these things will affect fuel economy more than you might imagine. And never under-estimate the affect driving style has on fuel use. A driver who smashes the throttle from every green light will soon start using more fuel every kilometre.

Converting big, thirsty vehicles like the F100 to run on LPG was a pretty common thing a few years ago. Then the pump prices of LPG and petrol become close enough that there wasn’t really the cost advantage to be had with an LPG conversion. Couple that with the cessation of local car production (which also spawned a few factory LPG cars) and suddenly, LPG had disappeared into the shadows a little.

It shouldn’t have, as LPG is plentiful in Australia and could have been our alternative to diesel had the industry been developed correctly, the advantages marketed properly and the Federal Government taken a less than greedy view of selling the stuff overseas cheaply while taxing it heavily here. Meantime, anybody who bought a diesel instead for the running costs must be looing at diesel prices now and be wondering if they made the right call.

Anyway, the vast majority of these LPG conversions were to what’s called dual fuel. That is, the vehicle can run on LPG or, at the flick of a switch, on normal unleaded. But some cars were converted to be dedicated LPG runners and couldn’t use ULP at all, which I’m assuming is what you have.

This makes the car less attractive to some buyers, but as fuel prices creep upwards, maybe the allure of LPG will make a comeback. Certainly a big, heavy truck like an F100 has more to gain by running on LPG than a smaller, lighter vehicle.

It is possible to convert the F100 back to run on petrol, but you’ll need to find all the original fuel system components including a tank, fuel pump, lines, filters and the appropriate carburettor. Then you need to decide whether to leave the LPG tank in place and convert to a dual fuel set-up, or ditch the LPG altogether for ULP-only running. Either way, you could be up for a couple of thousand dollars or more by the time you’re done. Which then begs the question whether that will then add the same amount to the vehicle’s asking price.

It’s very likely that the two lights remaining on inside the car are enough to drain the battery over time. The real question is why a couple of random lights would stay on even when the vehicle is locked up overnight. Initial suspicions would involve the car’s body computer which controls many functions, including interior lighting.

An auto electrician is probably your best bet at this stage. But in the meantime, you can perform an electronic reset by disconnecting the car’s battery overnight. Sometimes this is enough to give the body computer a reality check and will return things to normal. But if it has happened once, it can happen again.

I’d agree that the problem is likely to be something to do with the on-board computer(s) that control the powertrain and other functions. If you’re certain that the engine is not running hot when it claims to be, the cause could be as simple as the sensor is faulty, but it could also indicate a computer problem. The same goes for the power-steering, although an electrical circuit that constantly blows its fuse suggests a short-circuit somewhere in the wiring or connectors.

The code P1299 indicates that the car thinks the cylinder head temperature is too high, while P0118 suggests a problem with the sensor that monitors changes in the engine’s coolant temperature. Either way, this is a brand-new car, so it will be covered by the factory warranty. Make it Ford’s problem, not yours.

The broad rule is that if the indicator light is a yellow or orange one (check-engine light, low-fuel warning) you should be okay to get the car to a mechanic to have it scanned to see what the problem is. Or to get it to the nearest service-station to put more petrol in it.

But, if the light is a red one (temperature, oil pressure, charging system etc) then you need to stop driving the car right now or risk doing further, permanent damage to it. Pull over somewhere safe and call the cavalry. Continuing to drive with a red warning light on the dashboard is almost a guarantee to damage or destroy something expensive, including the engine.

Good news. Instead of a rubber toother timing belt, the engine in your Ranger has a timing chain. While the rubber belt type generally requires periodic replacement, the timing chain in your car should last the life of the engine.

With fuel consumption like that and a smelly, fuming engine, it’s a fair chance that there’s something amiss in the fuelling system. This could be anything from worn injectors to a faulty injection pump, but could also be a simple thing like a dud coolant-temperature sensor or oxygen sensor in the exhaust system that is telling lies to the computer than controls the engine and throwing the engine’s tune way out of whack.

Have the vehicle electronically scanned to see what fault codes are thrown up. And don’t be surprised if the problem is actually something within the ignition system rather than the fuel-injection. Or both.

A modern car like the Ranger has a heap of sensors that warn the on-board computer of something that’s getting too hot, causing the car to enter limp home mode to avoid further damaging itself. That means you could be looking at a problem as varied as the condition of the radiator and its plumbing, the intercooler, coolant pump, the EGR valve and more. Perhaps it’s a simple case of low coolant triggering the limp home. Certainly, these engines can lose coolant if the EGR valve is damaged or leaking.

But then you can also move along to the driveline, because a too-hot transmission will also trigger a limp-home situation. Is the transmission cooler working properly? Does the transmission have the correct quantity of fluid in it?

Start with the basics and don’t be afraid to give the car an electronic scan as the fault codes it has logged could be a big clue in what component is causing the grief.

The original slipping could have been caused by low transmission fluid, which would also explain why the unit would not select a gear. That would suggest that the transmission has a leak somewhere, because it’s a sealed system and doesn’t need periodic top-ups.

The danger, however, is that running the unit with a low fluid level has caused damage to the mechanical parts of the gearbox and possibly the torque converter as well. That’s because the fluid in an automatic transmission not only provides the drive, it also lubricates the various bits of the transmission. Not enough fluid means not enough lubrication.

If it was a as simple as low fluid, now that you’ve changed the fluid and taken it back to its correct level, you should have all the gears working again. But the fact that it will only select first and second gears suggests damage has already occurred. This is really a job for a transmission specialist who will be able to accurately diagnose what’s wrong.