Ford Problems

The original vane-type oil pump fitted to the 2.2 and 3.2-litre PX Ranger engines was a source of great misery for some owners with failures and a peculiar oil-changing regime forced upon owners. If the gear-driven style pump you've replaced it with is a good quality item, it should last the remainder of the vehicle's service life.

The short answer is no. Ford changed from a range of normally-aspirated engines in late 2016, to a newer, turbocharged 1.5-litre engine for the 2016 model year.

In theory, any engine can be made to fit any car, but there's no chance of this swap being an easy or inexpensive one. You'd also have to change the transmission to suit the newer engine and then there are the thousands of modifications to things like heater cores, radiators, engine mounts, steering and suspension components, exhaust systems and anything else that could be in the wrong place to suit the newer engine. And that's before we get to the different computers the newer engine will have to run it properly. You'd probably also need to have this conversion signed off by an engineer to ensure its legality and safety, too.

The simple solution (particularly ion a relatively inexpensive car like a second-hand Focus) is to simply buy the version you want in the first place.

A misfire under load is often suggestive of an ignition or fuelling fault. You can check the performance of the fuel pump to see that it's delivering the volume of fuel it should, but don't ignore things like dirty fuel filters as a cause of poor fuel delivery.

That said, this engine is particularly susceptible to failures of the ignition coils. In fact, most mechanics who know their way around this engine will suspect faulty coils before anything else. It's not a terribly expensive fix even though there is a separate coil for each cylinder, but nine times out of ten, this will be the problem in a misfiring Falcon or Fairmont. The other piece of advice is to ensure you only use the genuine Ford ignition coils rather than a cheaper, knock-off coil.

Transmission fluid should generally be a pretty pink or red colour. If it’s black (and/or smells like burned toast) that suggests that it is way overdue for a change of fluid and a new filter, and also that there could be lots of wear inside the transmission.

Tiny bits of the clutches and bands that control an automatic like yours wear off over time and it’s these that are discolouring the fluid. That fact that they’re black, also suggest they’re burned having been overheated at some point in the past.

A transmission shop should be your first port of call, with instructions to diagnose what’s wrong and work out a strategy from there. If the transmission is badly worn, it may need replacing or rebuilding. But you might be lucky and discover that the fluid is simply old and depleted (from a leak somewhere) and the transmission may recover with a full service. Don’t count on it, however.

I'd say you're looking at two different problems here, neither one of which involves the actual fuel tank (which is, indeed, 55 litres). The first problem is more likely to be the calibration of your fuel gauge that is out. If the gauge isn't reading accurately, it will tell you the tank is emptier (or fuller) than it really is. Your car is actually doing what most fuel gauges do, which is to be a bit pessimistic, suggesting there's not as much fuel still in the tank as there really is. You could have the gauge recalibrated, or simply know that even when the needle is at empty, you've still got a buffer zone of fuel remaining.

The fuel consumption, meanwhile, is another issue and it's true to say that 20 litres for 140km of driving is too thirsty. A basic tune up might help, starting with fuel filters, air cleaners and spark plugs. But don't ignore things like correct tyres pressures and whether there's a roof rack fitted; these things will affect fuel economy more than you might imagine. And never under-estimate the affect driving style has on fuel use. A driver who smashes the throttle from every green light will soon start using more fuel every kilometre.

Converting big, thirsty vehicles like the F100 to run on LPG was a pretty common thing a few years ago. Then the pump prices of LPG and petrol become close enough that there wasn’t really the cost advantage to be had with an LPG conversion. Couple that with the cessation of local car production (which also spawned a few factory LPG cars) and suddenly, LPG had disappeared into the shadows a little.

It shouldn’t have, as LPG is plentiful in Australia and could have been our alternative to diesel had the industry been developed correctly, the advantages marketed properly and the Federal Government taken a less than greedy view of selling the stuff overseas cheaply while taxing it heavily here. Meantime, anybody who bought a diesel instead for the running costs must be looing at diesel prices now and be wondering if they made the right call.

Anyway, the vast majority of these LPG conversions were to what’s called dual fuel. That is, the vehicle can run on LPG or, at the flick of a switch, on normal unleaded. But some cars were converted to be dedicated LPG runners and couldn’t use ULP at all, which I’m assuming is what you have.

This makes the car less attractive to some buyers, but as fuel prices creep upwards, maybe the allure of LPG will make a comeback. Certainly a big, heavy truck like an F100 has more to gain by running on LPG than a smaller, lighter vehicle.

It is possible to convert the F100 back to run on petrol, but you’ll need to find all the original fuel system components including a tank, fuel pump, lines, filters and the appropriate carburettor. Then you need to decide whether to leave the LPG tank in place and convert to a dual fuel set-up, or ditch the LPG altogether for ULP-only running. Either way, you could be up for a couple of thousand dollars or more by the time you’re done. Which then begs the question whether that will then add the same amount to the vehicle’s asking price.

It sounds like your diagnosis that the vehicle went into Safe or limp-home mode is spot on. Being fully loaded and travelling at speed up a long hill on a super-hot day could certainly be enough to make the car enter limp-home mode for its own preservation. This is confirmed by the fact that after a break and downhill run, the temperature stabilised and the car came back to full functionality.

Modern turbo-diesel engines make lots of power and torque these days, but they do that by burning fuel and that creates heat. You might also find that the limp-home mode initiation was at the behest of the transmission which would also be damaged if it got too hot.

Car-makers have designed these limp-home modes to protect the vehicle from permanent damage in severe operating conditions, and in your car, it seems to have done its job perfectly. The only unknown is whether the limp-home mode was initiated by the conditions or something actually wrong with the vehicle. It would be wise to have it checked over to make sure the cooling, fuel-injection and transmission systems don’t have a separate problem that is causing the Everest to enter Safe mode.

This sounds like a case of the air-conditioner freezing up over time. It can be caused by a few things, but essentially, it will start out cold and then gradually lose effectiveness till it's hardly blowing air at all, and that air is no longer cold.

It's caused by a build-up of ice in the system which blocks the air flow and prevents any further chilling of the air coming into it. To check this, next time it happens, jump out, open the bonnet and see if there's ice forming on the air-conditioning pipes under the bonnet. If that's the case, an air-conditioning specialist should be able to identify the problem and sort it.

A modern car like the Ranger has a heap of sensors that warn the on-board computer of something that’s getting too hot, causing the car to enter limp home mode to avoid further damaging itself. That means you could be looking at a problem as varied as the condition of the radiator and its plumbing, the intercooler, coolant pump, the EGR valve and more. Perhaps it’s a simple case of low coolant triggering the limp home. Certainly, these engines can lose coolant if the EGR valve is damaged or leaking.

But then you can also move along to the driveline, because a too-hot transmission will also trigger a limp-home situation. Is the transmission cooler working properly? Does the transmission have the correct quantity of fluid in it?

Start with the basics and don’t be afraid to give the car an electronic scan as the fault codes it has logged could be a big clue in what component is causing the grief.

All versions of the Ford Territory form this era used the inline six-cylinder 'Barra' engine from the Ford Falcon. This engine used a timing chain rather than a toothed rubber belt. The chain should be good for the life of the engine and should not need replacing.