Volkswagen Problems

You could well be on the right track here. Many cars with transmission coolers place them in the car's radiator so that the liquid that cools the engine, also cools the transmission. But if the transmission cooler fails, that can allow transmission fluid into the car's coolant system which might account for the oil you're seeing in your coolant bottle. Many mis-diagnose this as a blown head gasket because the outward symptoms are very similar.

If this is the case, the bad news is that coolant has probably also entered the transmission potentially wrecking the mechanical parts and frying the electronic bits.

The trade recommends a fully synthetic oil for either the diesel or petrol engines of the Golf Mk 7. The correct grade and specification is 5W30 which will give you maximum engine protection and performance.

The other engine-oil recommendation for this car is to not skimp on checking the oil level with the dipstick. These engines – in particular the 2.0-litre petrol unit – are designed to sip a little oil between changes, so don't be caught out with too little oil in the sump as that can cause catastrophic damage to the engine. The engine does this because it's a low-friction design, but the small amount of oil you'll use will be more than offset by the fuel savings engines designs like this can deliver.

Make it a habit to check the oil level every Saturday morning; it's a simple thing to do and something that we all once had to do in the old days when most engines burned a little oil.

These old, air-cooled Volkswagens have a huge reputation for reliability and durability. And, back in the 1950s and '60s when they were most popular, they definitely were more reliable than a lot of their competition.

However, these days, even a relatively late-model Beetle such as a 1976 could be an absolute minefield of problems, starting with rust and a driveline with worn out mechanical bits and pieces. You haven't said how many kilometres the car has covered, but I'm betting it's plenty and that really plays against something like this car. You could wind up having to rebuild a large percentage of the car just to get it roadworthy, at which point, you could have bought something newer, faster and more comfortable.

In fact, that's another issue with old designs like the Beetle's; there's virtually no safety equipment beyond seat-belts. This is why cars like this have a place, but that place is as a weekend toy where you can relive your youth in small chunks on a Saturday morning before the shopping traffic has hit the road.

None of these symptoms are what you want to find. Any car mixing its coolant with its engine oil has some kind of internal failure (often a head gasket failure) and a car that is consuming oil at a fast rate is also probably suffering some kind of internal damage or wear. Have a mechanic perform a few basic tests on the engine (compression, leak-down and head-gasket) and proceed from there. But if it's as bad as it sounds, you could be looking for a new engine (or a new car).

These engines were known for being quite complex and perhaps not as durable as they should have been in some cases. They're also quite expensive to rebuild and may cost more to fix than the entire car is worth. At that point, you have some tough decisions to make.

From the sounds of things, you need a vehicle that can accommodate the wheelchair as an actual seat in the car rather than having the chair folded and stored for the journey. With that in mind, a van or people-mover is by far the best best bet and the news is good, because there are plenty of choices. For a while there, people were converting Ford Falcon station-wagons for this task, but since the Falcon is no longer made, vans have become the new default vehicle to convert. Which makes plenty of sense.

There are specialist firms around that will carry out whatever conversion you require and tailor-make the ramps, lock-down points and grab-rails you need to make it work for you. Switched on companies will sit down with you and discuss your precise requirements and engineer something bespoke if necessary.

At the moment, the list of car choices is pretty long and includes the new Hyundai Staria, VW Caddy, LDV G10, VW Caravelle, Renault Kangoo, Renault Trafic, Hyundai iLoad, Mercedes-Benz V-Class, Toyota HiAce and, in case you need something really big, even the Toyota Coaster. Some of these companies are also registered as NDIS suppliers.

But don’t rule out a second-hand vehicle, either. There are websites around listing used wheelchair-accessible cars for sale. Some will be ex-taxis, but others can be relatively low-kilometre cars that might just have the exact layout you were looking for.

The seven-speed DSG transmission in your car is a known trouble-spot and has caused lots of grief for owners over the years. Failures can occur in the clutch-packs, the electronic control units or the gearsets themselves and, once the failure has occurred, it's usually time for a whole new transmission.

Mechanics can often become a bit jaded when they see multiple failures of the same component, but in this case, they're probably right. Your problem then becomes one of the cost of repairs being more than the repaired car is worth.

The refusal to shift from four to two-wheel-drive could be any number of things from an electrical or switching fault to a mechanical failure within the transmission or transfer-case. So that needs to be checked out before you do any more damage to the vehicle.

In fact, the best advice would be to not drive the car any farther at all, because the jerkiness you describe is typical of a part-time all-wheel-drive vehicle that is locked in all-wheel-drive being driven on a normal, or grippy, surface. The need for the inside and outside wheels of a vehicle need to turn at different speeds when cornering, is over-ridden in a car like yours when low-range all-wheel-drive is selected. At which point, what you're feeling is the entire driveline fighting itself and loading up incredible stresses into the axles and differentials. Drive it any distance like that and you'll surely break something mechanical.

Your recommended tyre pressures can vary a bit depending on what size wheel and tyre combination is fitted to your car. But broadly speaking, you should be looking at something like 30 or 32 psi front and rear as a good starting point. If you're moving heavy loads or driving at freeway speeds in mid-summer, a little more inflation pressure might be a good idea.

As for recommended fuel, the best advice would be to stop using ethanol-blended (E10) fuel right away. That's because there's a fair bit of confusion on the subject as it relates to Volkswagen models. The Federal Chamber of Automotive Industries tells us that all post-1986 VWs with fuel-injected engines are fine with E10. The NSW government website, however, says that E10 should not be used in VWs. Some VW owners have also been told by VW head office that E10 fuel is not suitable for their cars.

So it's confusing, but if in doubt, stick with the safe option which, for your car, would be non-ethanol fuel with an octane rating of 95 or more.

It is true that sometimes a differential can contribute a small amount of vibration on tight turns as it goes about its business of allowing one axle to rotate faster than the other. But it probably shouldn't be noticeable in a modern product like yours, and it definitely shouldn't be getting worse. In fact, its worsening condition is a real alarm bell.

The best advice is to take the car to an independent workshop – your state motoring club would be a good start – and have the vehicle inspected. Use those findings as your basis on whether to push for repairs or accept that this behaviour is just part of the way the car works. Present the findings to your dealership and make sure they go on the car's record as this will be proof of a pre-existing condition if the vehicle gives the same trouble - or worse - after the warranty has expired.