Volkswagen Problems

No, the tow-ball capacity is determined by the manufacturer and is not affected by what rear suspension you have in the vehicle. Theoretically, upgrading the rear springs would mean the car would sag less when you put a load on the tow-bar, but that doesn’t alter the tow-bar’s ability to cope with extra weight.

Towing is an area where there’s a lot of misinformation doing the rounds. Make sure you know the limits dictated by the car’s manufacturer, the trailer’s manufacturer and the law.

This is actually more difficult than it ought to be as VW Australia doesn’t seem to publish a Gross Combination Mass (GCM) figure for the Touareg. Neither is the GCM something you can confidently calculate by adding the Gross Vehicle Mass (GVM) to the maximum towing mass (in the Touareg’s case, 3500kg). That’s because in many cases, a vehicle is not able to tow its maximum towed load while fully loaded itself. These limits are all calculated by the vehicle’s manufacturer and are seriously non-negotiable. It’s a bit of a trap for some owners who hitch up a big caravan or boat, only to discover that they then have very little payload remaining in the vehicle.

In any case, here are the relevant GCM figures for the 2015 Touareg: 150TDI – 6390kg; 180TDI – 6415kg; V8 – 6510kg.

The trade recommends a fully synthetic oil for either the diesel or petrol engines of the Golf Mk 7. The correct grade and specification is 5W30 which will give you maximum engine protection and performance.

The other engine-oil recommendation for this car is to not skimp on checking the oil level with the dipstick. These engines – in particular the 2.0-litre petrol unit – are designed to sip a little oil between changes, so don't be caught out with too little oil in the sump as that can cause catastrophic damage to the engine. The engine does this because it's a low-friction design, but the small amount of oil you'll use will be more than offset by the fuel savings engines designs like this can deliver.

Make it a habit to check the oil level every Saturday morning; it's a simple thing to do and something that we all once had to do in the old days when most engines burned a little oil.

None of these symptoms are what you want to find. Any car mixing its coolant with its engine oil has some kind of internal failure (often a head gasket failure) and a car that is consuming oil at a fast rate is also probably suffering some kind of internal damage or wear. Have a mechanic perform a few basic tests on the engine (compression, leak-down and head-gasket) and proceed from there. But if it's as bad as it sounds, you could be looking for a new engine (or a new car).

These engines were known for being quite complex and perhaps not as durable as they should have been in some cases. They're also quite expensive to rebuild and may cost more to fix than the entire car is worth. At that point, you have some tough decisions to make.

From the sounds of things, you need a vehicle that can accommodate the wheelchair as an actual seat in the car rather than having the chair folded and stored for the journey. With that in mind, a van or people-mover is by far the best best bet and the news is good, because there are plenty of choices. For a while there, people were converting Ford Falcon station-wagons for this task, but since the Falcon is no longer made, vans have become the new default vehicle to convert. Which makes plenty of sense.

There are specialist firms around that will carry out whatever conversion you require and tailor-make the ramps, lock-down points and grab-rails you need to make it work for you. Switched on companies will sit down with you and discuss your precise requirements and engineer something bespoke if necessary.

At the moment, the list of car choices is pretty long and includes the new Hyundai Staria, VW Caddy, LDV G10, VW Caravelle, Renault Kangoo, Renault Trafic, Hyundai iLoad, Mercedes-Benz V-Class, Toyota HiAce and, in case you need something really big, even the Toyota Coaster. Some of these companies are also registered as NDIS suppliers.

But don’t rule out a second-hand vehicle, either. There are websites around listing used wheelchair-accessible cars for sale. Some will be ex-taxis, but others can be relatively low-kilometre cars that might just have the exact layout you were looking for.

Assuming you're looking at the coolant catch-bottle and not the windscreen-washer fluid bottle, this is probably a bad thing. Any time the car's engine coolant can mix with its oil or vice-versa, there's a chance that the cause is a failed head gasket or perhaps even something more serious like a split cylinder bore.

But don't just assume that any contamination in the coolant is engine oil. It could be something else from another source. Does the engine oil look milky on the dipstick? If it does, then that's almost certainly due to coolant being mixed with it, and that backs up the failed head gasket theory. The other thing I'd like to know is how fast the engine oil level is dropping. Some oil use is normal for a car's engine, so simply watching that level fall over a few thousand kilometres and presuming it's going into the coolant is a long shot to say the least. It sounds like you need to have the car's cooling system pressure tested and the engine compression tested. That's the best way to put and end to the guessing game.

By the way, is your car a South African-bult VW? From what I can gather only South Africa got a model called the Polo Vivo which featured a few country-specific features and details and was very well received by buyers in that part of the world.

The refusal to shift from four to two-wheel-drive could be any number of things from an electrical or switching fault to a mechanical failure within the transmission or transfer-case. So that needs to be checked out before you do any more damage to the vehicle.

In fact, the best advice would be to not drive the car any farther at all, because the jerkiness you describe is typical of a part-time all-wheel-drive vehicle that is locked in all-wheel-drive being driven on a normal, or grippy, surface. The need for the inside and outside wheels of a vehicle need to turn at different speeds when cornering, is over-ridden in a car like yours when low-range all-wheel-drive is selected. At which point, what you're feeling is the entire driveline fighting itself and loading up incredible stresses into the axles and differentials. Drive it any distance like that and you'll surely break something mechanical.

Your recommended tyre pressures can vary a bit depending on what size wheel and tyre combination is fitted to your car. But broadly speaking, you should be looking at something like 30 or 32 psi front and rear as a good starting point. If you're moving heavy loads or driving at freeway speeds in mid-summer, a little more inflation pressure might be a good idea.

As for recommended fuel, the best advice would be to stop using ethanol-blended (E10) fuel right away. That's because there's a fair bit of confusion on the subject as it relates to Volkswagen models. The Federal Chamber of Automotive Industries tells us that all post-1986 VWs with fuel-injected engines are fine with E10. The NSW government website, however, says that E10 should not be used in VWs. Some VW owners have also been told by VW head office that E10 fuel is not suitable for their cars.

So it's confusing, but if in doubt, stick with the safe option which, for your car, would be non-ethanol fuel with an octane rating of 95 or more.

It is true that sometimes a differential can contribute a small amount of vibration on tight turns as it goes about its business of allowing one axle to rotate faster than the other. But it probably shouldn't be noticeable in a modern product like yours, and it definitely shouldn't be getting worse. In fact, its worsening condition is a real alarm bell.

The best advice is to take the car to an independent workshop – your state motoring club would be a good start – and have the vehicle inspected. Use those findings as your basis on whether to push for repairs or accept that this behaviour is just part of the way the car works. Present the findings to your dealership and make sure they go on the car's record as this will be proof of a pre-existing condition if the vehicle gives the same trouble - or worse - after the warranty has expired.