Toyota RAV4 Problems

The kerb weight of the RAV4 you mentioned depends on whether it’s the two or four-wheel-drive model. If it’s the former, the kerb weight is 1690kg, if it’s the all-wheel-drive model, the kerb weight is 1775kg. I know you asked for tare weight, but the only difference between kerb and tare weight sis that tare weight is the mass of the empty vehicle with 10 litres of fuel in its tank, while kerb weight is the same empty vehicle but with a full tank of fuel.

Of perhaps more interest to anybody towing is the fact that the two-wheel-drive RAV4 can tow 480kg while the AWD version can cope with 1500kg. The 2WD Rav’s GVM, meanwhile, is 2185kg and the AWD’s is 2230kg. The two-wheel-drive RAV4’s GCM is 2665kg, while the all-wheel-drive’s GCM is 3730kg.

Some of this information is quite difficult to find (even if you have the owner’s manual) yet it’s crucial safety information and should be more readily available. Some car makers seem very coy about publishing GVM and GCM limits, possibly because they don’t always reflect well on the product’s ability to tow and carry a load at the same time.

A noise or vibration that is engine speed dependent is usually associated with the driveline, while a similar problem that occurs at a particular road speed is more often a problem with a wheel or suspension component. The main exception to that is the differential which is part of the driveline but determines the vehicle’s speed, so can contribute a speed-dependent noise or vibration, too.

Beyond that, you could be looking at a fault with a wheel bearing, a deformed tyre, bent rim, worn suspension bush, bent axle or suspension arm or pretty much anything else. A rolling-road dynamometer (kind of like a treadmill for cars) might be one way of achieving the problem speed while a mechanic looks and listens on.

There’s a huge range of towing limits for the RAV4 thanks to the sheer number of model variants. In simple terms, the non-hybrid two-wheel-drive versions can tow a braked trailer of 800kg while a two-wheel-drive hybrid RAV4 can only cope with 480kg. Which means that if you want a RAV4 for towing, you’re best to look at any of the all-wheel-drive versions (hybrid or non-hybrid) which have a braked towing limit of 1500kg.

Of course, those figures are for braked trailers, while your question was for a trailer with no braking of its own. In that case, the two-wheel-drive RAV4’s limit stays at 480kg, while the all-wheel-drive’s limit falls to 750kg.

Gross Combined Mass (the total weight of the vehicle, the trailer and anything being carried including passengers, fuel, luggage and accessories) meantime, is harder to find and you need to resort to the owner’s manual (which is a problem if you haven’t bought the car yet). In any case, the two-wheel-drive RAV4’s GCM is 2665kg, while the all-wheel-drive’s GCM is 3730kg.

I’m unsure why this last piece of the puzzle is so difficult to find, but information like this should be more readily available as it’s a critical safety issue and something that many owners inadvertently get wrong with serious legal and insurance ramifications.

It all sounds a bit counter-intuitive, doesn’t it: That a smaller engine could use more fuel thana larger one? But, in fact, it’s all down to the hybrid driveline in the 2.5-litre version of the RAV4. Because the hybrid version also has an electric motor to help propel the vehicle, the petrol engine has less work to do. So, it uses less fuel, particularly on the official test cycle that determines these numbers.

In fact, in the hybrid RAV4, the petrol engine isn’t even running a lot of the time, especially in stop-start traffic. The electric motor can draw from the batteries on board to get the vehicle rolling, and when it’s slowing down, the electric motor recharges those batteries for the next green light. And when the car is running on electric power, it’s not using any petrol at all.

By contrast, the non-hybrid RAV4 is running its petrol engine the whole time (apart from when it’s at a complete standstill). And that, in a nutshell, is how a bigger engine can use less fuel than a smaller one in the same make and model.

It all depends on what you call the serpentine belt. If you mean the toothed rubber belt that drives the camshafts, then yes, the engine will need to have its valve timing re-set before it will run again with a new belt. If this is what has happened, you’re lucky that the 3S-FE engine in your car is what’s called a non-interference engine. That is, if the belt brakes, the pistons will not crash into the valves, destroying the engine. In an interference design, you’d be looking at a whole new engine.

If, however, the belt you refer to is the one that drives the power-steering pump, water pump and alternator, then you should be able to simply replace the belt and be back in business.

Flushing a transmission is a practice that mechanics around the world just can't agree on in terms of its benefits. Either way, it would be pretty dangerous to do it with something as flammable as petrol. Also, unlike transmission fluid, petrol is not a lubricant so internal damage would possibly occur if you ran the car with only petrol in the transmission.

Most transmission flushing is done by using fresh automatic transmission fluid (ATF) which displaces most of the old ATF. A fluid change is the other service option, but this will usually only replace the ATF in the transmission's pan. A flush, meanwhile, will replace the stuff in the pan as well as in the torque converter and the transmission lines.

Your problem, however, sounds more like a lack of fluid in the first place. The inability of an automatic transmission to select gears and/or produce any forward movement is often down to depleted ATF rather than dirty or old fluid. Check the fluid level on the transmission's dipstick and, if it's low, add some more. The job then is to work out where the ATF is going missing, because the transmission is a sealed system that shouldn't need topping up. You may have a leak somewhere. And definitely check this first before spending lots of money on repairs when a quick ATF top-up will bring the car back to full health.

These are quite different vehicles in terms of their physical size. While older generations of the RAV4 were known as compact SUVs, the current model is resolutely mid-sized. None of which is to say that the Yaris is cramped but it is a size-division smaller, so if you often carry people in the back seat or your family is growing, the RAV4 might be a bit more future-proof.

However, in driveline terms, the Yaris is the one that is truly future-proof thanks to its hybrid driveline. If most of your driving is around the city and suburbs, you might be surprised at just how efficient a modern hybrid can be. On the highway, there's less to be gained form the hybrid layout, so take that into account, too.

The other thing to consider is what happens a few years down the track at trade-in time. The RAV4 is question is already one generation older than the Yaris, and the hybrid Yaris is almost certain to be worth more as a second-hand proposition five years from now. Which means the latter will probably be the cheapest to own over that time in a wholistic sense.

Not really sure what you consider a normal sedan's length to be, but I'll presume you have a relatively short parking space to deal with. Also, your minimum height requirement suggests you're sick of climbing up out of cars and want something with a higher seat to make entering and leaving the car easier. With that in mind, something like the Toyota RAV4 Hybrid springs to mind. It's high enough at 1685mm (with decent seat height) and at 4600mm long, it's quite a bit shorter than the Toyota Camry sedan (4885mm long).

But, really, there are plenty of choices out there with just about every mainstream manufacturer offering an SUV of similar size, and many of them in a hybrid format. Which is great, because the big catch with the RAV4 is that it's so popular, there are long waiting lists. What you really need to do is invest a little shoe leather and visit some dealerships where you can try the candidates on for size. Or check out this website for the latest mid-sized SUV comparison tests.

The default purchase for somebody looking for a mid-sized hybrid SUV is the Toyota RAV4 Hybrid. But if that’s too big, there’s the Toyota Yaris Cross Hybrid, C-HR Hybrid and even the Corolla Cross Hybrid which sounds like the marketplace is getting crowded but is really just a reflection of the appetite right now for cars like these. And that’s the catch; the waiting times for a brand-new example of some of these cars is out to many months and even years. So your plan to shop second-hand makes plenty of sense, but don’t expect any bargains in a market currently being dominated by lots of demand and less supply.

Beyond the Toyota brand (which has been doing hybrids longer than just about anybody else) there’s also the Mazda CX-30, Subaru XV Hybrid, Haval Jolion Hybrid, Kia Niro, Subaru Forester Hybrid, Nissan Qashqai e-Power, MG HS, Honda HR-V e and more. For something a bit bigger, try the Kia Sorento or Hyundai Santa Fe hybrids. There are others out there, too, that are probably bigger or more expensive than you need, but it's very much a growing scene in the Australian marketplace.

These add-ons have traditionally been a huge cash-cow for new-car dealers who will urge you into buying paint protection, interior treatments, window tint and more at huge mark-ups in their favour. It's your choice, obviously, but here's the reality: If a car maker can't sell you a car, in 2022, that has a painted exterior finish that will survive in the world, it doesn't deserve to sell you, or anybody else, that car. Fundamentally, any brand-new car should be as durable as possible, fresh from the factory. And if these add-on treatments are so good, why don't car-makers use them at the factory?

Again, it's your money, so your choice, but not buying them won't affect your warranty if something does go wrong with the paint and you need to make a claim.