Mazda Problems

It’s important to understand, but is the engine in your Mazda 2 timing belt or chain driven? That’s because a timing chain should last the life of the car with no extra maintenance, while a timing belt will need to be replaced at regular intervals. If you ignore timing belt changes, the belt can snap in service and destroy the whole engine.

Fortunately, the engine in the Mazda 2 uses a timing chain, so should require no special maintenance for as long as the rest of the car is running properly. That gets around the problems of the cam drive belt replacement as well as the associated cost.

This advice applies to both engines used in the Mazda 2 since 2002 and covers the ZY-VE engine (2002 to 2014) and the later V-P5 and F-P5 engines. It’s also dependent on regular oil changes and other maintenance having been carried out.

That actually sounds like a ripper deal to us. Getting any kind of a discount in 2023 when supply-chain problems that have created more demand than supply of many new cars is increasingly uncommon. The eye-watering cost is the dealer delivery charge which is generally higher than it's ever been and reflects that demand from buyers who will pay it to secure the car they want. Some dealers won't negotiate on this cost, others are more inclined to sharpen their pencil to get you over the line.

Also, many of the additional costs you've listed are government mandated and are not negotiable. Those include the stamp-duty and CTP fee as well as the registration charge. Add those to the base price and you wind up with $45,457, meaning you're getting the dealer delivery fee and all those extras for less than $600. That seems pretty darn good in 2023.

Almost certainly not. The 2016 Mazda BT-50 was a shared model with Ford (Ranger) but in late 2020, the BT-50 was replaced by an all-new model which was a platform sharing deal with Isuzu (D-Max).

Even if the dual-cab tubs of each version of the BT-50 were dimensionally similar, there would be dozens of detail differences (tie-down points, tailgate width, hinge placement, wheel-arch intrusion etc) that would mean the tub liner from one would not fit into the other. The good news is there are plenty of tub-liners available for the new BT-50. Most seem to be priced from about $300 to $500. And since the previous model BT-50 was a popular vehicle, you could probably sell the old tub liner you have to offset the cost of the new one.

The steering system in your Mazda is the old-school hydraulic type, rather than the more modern electrically-assisted set-up. Noises when you turn the steering wheel often indicate a problem with the rack itself or the hydraulics, either of which can make the system grumble and rumble when you deflect it from the straight-ahead.

The first thing to check would be the hydraulic system for leaks. These will show up as drops of fluid seeping from the various joins in the system. A check of the power-steering pump's fluid level is also a good indicator of a leak somewhere; if it's down on where it should be, you have a leak. If that's the case, the whole system probably needs a once over.

You should also check the actual steering column for the source of the noise, as sometimes a simple plastic-on-plastic contact somewhere on the column or its shroud can produce a noise like this.

Within the rack itself are valves and fluid passages that can, over time trap air. When that happens, the air bubbles can make the sort of noise you're hearing, also. So before you spend any money, try this trick: Start the engine with the car stationary and then cycle the steering from full left lock to full right lock a couple of times. Often, this will bleed the air out of the system and restore things to normal. It may or may not work, but since it's free, it's worth a crack.

The clue here might be in the fact that this problem occurs when you drive slowly for an extended distance. This could suggest that something (engine or transmission perhaps) is becoming hot and the vehicle is switching to limp-home mode to avoid damaging any components. Also, it could be a dodgy sensor which is simply making the vehicle 'think' it's getting hot.

It sounds counter-intuitive, but driving slowly can lead to overheating as there's less air flowing over the radiator and/or oil coolers to whisk temperature away. When you stop the car and re-start it, the on-board computer goes back to its default settings and away you go again until the sensors detect more heat build-up.

With that in mind, I'd be checking the radiators and oil coolers for a build up of dust, mud, leaves and other rubbish which could be blocking airflow. But before you start replacing sensors and other components, have the car scanned (by a mechanic) to see if any fault codes make themselves apparent.

The rule of thumb states that if the engine fires on starting fluid sprayed down the intake, but won't run on the fuel in its tank, the first thing to check is the fuel pump. Just because there was some fuel present when you cracked the seal on the fuel injector, does not necessarily mean that there's enough of it or the fuel pressure is sufficient to start the engine.

Modern common-rail diesel engines use very sophisticated fuel systems which use super-high pressure. Without a pump to build up to this pressure, the injector won't deliver the right amount of fuel for successful running. But you should also check the operation of the glow-plugs as well as the condition of the fuel filters. An electronic scan is also a good idea at this point, before you start replacing expensive bits and pieces.

Be extra careful fiddling with engines like this one, especially if you're messing about with the injectors and fuel system. The inherent pressures are so high, that a leak can act like a water-jet cutter; sufficiently powerful to remove a finger.

Cars have never been more dependent on their electrical systems than they are today. Sometimes, changing a dead battery can lead to the sorts of problems you've noted, and while it could be something more mechanical, there's one thing you can try at home before phoning the mechanic.

Disconnect the battery and leave the car for at least half an hour. Then, reconnect it, start the engine and go for a drive of at least 30 minutes. That will usually be enough to perform what's called a reset and may solve your problems.

If not, you need to have the car scanned at a workshop to see what problems the on-board computer has identified.