Mazda Problems

It all depends of what sort of a leak we’re talking about here. If the tank is constantly leaking after it’s been filled up, there’s clearly some sort of hole somewhere in the tank or its plumbing from the filler neck to the tank proper. You could surmise that the level of fuel in the tank at which the leak stops, is also the level of the hole or crack. As the fuel drains further (as you drive the car) the fuel level is below that of the leak-point and the leak stops. Either way, this is a dangerous situation as even if there’s no liquid fuel leaking, there’s almost certainly fuel vapour escaping (which is more flammable than petrol itself).

While it’s rare for a tank to fail, much more common is having the plumbing which takes the fuel from the filler neck to the tank cause a leak. But if the leak stops soon after you’ve filled up, it could simply be that a small amount of fuel has sloshed out of the filler neck and into the car’s body near the neck, where it can drain away, thanks to gravity, towards the bottom of the car where you’re seeing it. Next time you fill up, be sure not to overfill the tank and remember to use the watering can on hand to slosh away any spilled or excess fuel.

Most mechanics will do a complete check up and tune of the engine as part of tracking this problem and it’s a good start, because a new set of spark plugs and plug leads might just fix this problem. But that won’t always be the case. As such, you could be looking at a dud sensor somewhere in the engine bay that is telling the on-board computer to shut things down or, at least, not providing the computer with enough information to keep it all running. For this reason, an electronic scan of the vehicle should also be carried out at the same time to see what fault codes are cropping up.

A prime suspect for this behaviour would be what’s called the engine’s stepper motor which is a small electric motor that controls the throttle body and, therefore, the car’s idle speed. If this motor is maladjusted or faulty, it could cause the engine to either idle roughly, too slowly, or stall altogether. But have the scan done before rushing out to spend money on parts that may or may not be the problem.

There’s a very simple check you can do to see whether the battery or the charging system (alternator, regulator and wiring) is at fault here. With the engine running, place the probes of a multi-meter (switched to measure voltage) on the relevant battery terminals. If you see a figure of anywhere between 13.2 and 14.7 volts, the charging system is doing its job. You might need to rev the engine slightly off idle to see these numbers, but the voltage going into the battery should be in that range.

At this point, the battery becomes the main suspect, and a worn out battery will often neither hold a charge nor accept one.

The last decade of dual-cab four-wheel-drive utes have emerged as the tow-vehicles of choice, and you see them everywhere filling roles exactly like the one you have planned. Popular models include the Ford Ranger you’ve nominated, Toyota HiLux, Mazda BT-50, VW Amarok, Mitsubishi Triton, Nissan Navara and Isuzu D-Max. But there are also cheaper alternatives including makes like the South-Korean made Ssangyong and various Chinese brands like LDV and Great Wall.

Just make sure you know exactly how much you need to tow before making a decision as some of the cheaper models don’t have the same outright towing capacity and even if they do, some of them don’t have the engine performance to make towing as easy as it should be. For parts availability, the Toyota would be king in really remote areas, but any of the major brands are pretty well covered in Australia.

Meantime, don’t rule out ute-based wagons such as the Ford Everest, Isuzu MU-X, Mitsubishi Pajero Sport and Toyota Fortuna. These offer better ride comfort when unladen thanks to more sophisticated rear suspensions and most have as much or almost as much towing capacity as their ute brethren.

In the old days, this would (probably) have been a simple matter of a faulty wiper switch. But on modern cars, functions like the wipers are controlled by a computer called the body-control module. If this starts to fail it can send odd signals to the various things it controls (wipers, lights, central locking, climate-control, entertainment systems and many more).

An automotive electrician might be able to pin-point the problem, and that’s a good place to start. But before you do that, try this: Disconnect the car’s battery and leave it overnight. When you reconnect the battery, you might just find the computer has reset itself and things return to normal. It can sometimes be just a temporary fix, but it’s definitely worth a try. And it’s free.

There are many reasons for a vehicle to enter limp-home mode. One of them, of course is transmission temperature, but there are lots of things being monitored, from the temperature of the engine oil, coolant temperature, oil level and even the operating temperature of the EGR valve (which is often water-cooled in vehicles like the Mazda).

The point being that even though the transmission entered limp-home mode, the actual problem may have been elsewhere, but the vehicle’s computer believed that shutting down much of the transmission’s functions would preserve and protect the rest of the driveline. Don’t forget, either, that there are many things – a failed solenoid, low fluid level, even a faulty wiring connection or earth – that can cause a transmission limp-home event beyond actual overheating.

It’s certainly true that automatics are far more common than manual cars these days. It all started decades ago when people decided it was easier to have the car shift gears for itself than bother to shift them manually. But there have been other factors, too. One is that modern automatics no longer represent the performance shortfall they once did.

Back in the bad old days, autos used to be less efficient than a manual, leading to less acceleration and greater fuel use, making the manual the natural choice for a keener driver. But modern automatics have really caught up and no longer hinder performance or increase thirst. In fact, the best of them can shift faster than a human ever could and, with eight, nine or even 10 ratios, they can be more efficient than a manual.

Turbocharged engines have also helped make the case for automatics and – generally speaking – turbo-motors often work best with an automatic where there’s no lengthy gear-change interval to allow the engine to fall of boost. And turbo-diesels which need boost to operate and don’t rev very hard in the first place, are a natural choice for an automatic which also works very well for towing and when driving off-road.

But there will always be people who prefer manuals (yours truly included) especially those who actually enjoy the physical aspects of driving a car. So while the manual transmission in your car will turn some people off, if you can find the buyer who wants a manual, you might find the rarity of your manual car will actually be a selling point.