Toyota Problems

That’s getting up there for any car, even though modern engines are capable of much greater distances than their older relatives. But that sort of mileage does raise some questions.

Those start with how complete is the service history. If there are any gaps, this would be a car to avoid, as any vehicle with that sort of distance covered will only be as good as its servicing and maintenance allow. The other question is what sort of life the car has led. Three hundred thousand kilometres sounds like a lot, but if you break it down to kilometres per year, it works out at less than 18,000km per annum, which is well within the bounds of normality.

However, the bottom line is this with all high-mileage vehicles: You might get lucky and get another 150,000 trouble-free kilometres out of the thing, or it might go bang tomorrow. That’s the punt you take and that’s why high-milers are cheap to buy. Which is another way of saying that even with a full service record, a RAV4 with that sort of mileage would still need to be cheap.

Toyota and other car-makers had a terrible patch of quality problems with paint finishes around this time. White cars seemed to be the worst, but some other colours also started peeling for no apparent reason. When it happens, the paint can come adrift in huge sheets.

I believe the problem was eventually traced to a problem in the chemistry of the paint applied at the factory, so it would be worth checking with Toyota to see if your car was one of the affected one.

If an automatic car-wash has caused this damage, then the operator of the car-wash is the body you need to be talking to. If you’re not happy with the response form Toyota or anybody else, you can have the car independently inspected to determine whether your car has bad paint or has been somehow damaged.

This model Coaster bus was fitted with a 90-litre fuel tank. While that sounds like quite a bit, these vehicles are quite heavy (upwards of 2.5 tonnes) and are fitted with relatively thirsty diesel engines. As a result, you won’t be going more than about 500km between fill-ups, and that’s on the highway.

Add a trailer, roof rack or even drive into a headwind and fuel consumption can spike. But these vehicles have a great reputation for reliability and make great mobile-home conversion platforms.

Believe it or not, 17 litres is on the high side of things, but not out of the question in a Kluger that is driven exclusively in stop-start urban traffic. I know the official fuel consumption figure for the car is 11L/100km, but there are a few things to keep in mind with that. The first is that this is a combined urban/highway figure, so it will always be lower than the urban number. Also, this figure is achieved on a test that actually bears very little relationship with driving in the real world.

You need to keep in mind that this is a relatively large petrol engine, hauling a hefty (1900kg-plus) car around. If your Kluger is the all-wheel-drive version, there’s also a fair bit of driveline friction to overcome. Even when cruising down a highway, this will never be a frugal vehicle as the aerodynamics mean it’s moving an awful lot of air at 100km/h. Don’t forget, either, that driving style has a huge effect on how much fuel you use.

If you’re concerned, have the car tuned and serviced. Fresh spark plugs and clean filters might make a difference to your fuel use.

The driver’s window of the average car does a lot more work than any of the other power windows on board. What can happen over time is that the tracks the window glass runs in become clogged with dust and debris or simply go dry, meaning there’s excess friction when the glass is trying to change position. Thanks to gravity, this is usually most often seen when trying to raise the glass.

You can try a dry lubricant spray which typically contains graphite to grease the tracks slightly, but don’t overdo it. And try to avoid liquid lubricants as these will smear the glass. If that doesn’t work, you may have to take the door and glass apart to find the problem. It could also be that the electric motor that does the work of moving the glass is worn and not providing the necessary power.

In the meantime, you can help the motor by grabbing the top of the glass and using a little elbow grease to help it make the journey. Just make sure you don’t get your fingers in the way as the window shuts.

Mobility scooters don’t just take up volume, they can also be rather odd shapes. So the actual luggage capacity in litres is not going to give you the full answer here. Instead it comes down to whether the physical shape of the Volvo’s luggage area will work for you.

There’s really only one way to find out. And that’s to take your scooter and actually see if it will fit in the Volvo, allowing for the action of the lift and its mechanisms. You need to check things like the loading lip height and whether the Volvo’s roof is high enough to take the scooter without having to partly disassemble it before each trip. Make sure the rear door closes properly, too, without anything trying to poke through the rear window.

On the surface, there’s not much in it. The current model C-HR has 388 litres of luggage space, the Volvo CX40 410 litres. But, again, given the odd shape of a scooter and its lifting mechanism, the difference might be much greater than that in practice.

This type of thing is certainly not an uncommon fault, but whether it’s more common in Toyotas is another question altogether. Certainly, Toyota has not recalled the vehicle to fix this problem, nor am I aware of a service bulletin (much more likely than a safety recall for a dud head unit).

But the good news is that there are specialist companies out there that fix problems like this one. You remove your head unit, send it away and it returns fully functioning and tested, ready to reinstall. Flickering and dropping out are both common faults in modern head units, but both can be fixed by the right specialist.

On older cars like this one, some pretty strange electrical things can start to happen as switches and wiring ages. The first thing to check for is that there’s not a cargo area or interior light staying on when it shouldn’t and subsequently flattening the battery.

But the failure of the stereo and temperature gauge both point to a body computer problem (as does the battery going flat). The body computer basically controls all the car’s functions that are not driveline related. So, the central locking, lighting, entertainment, security, power windows, climate control and much, much more are body-computer driven. And if this computer fails, lights can turn themselves on, the central locking can cycle over and over again and various other electrical bits and pieces can switch themselves on and drain the battery.

But there’s one other check to make before blaming the computer (which, on a 1994 Corolla, won’t be as complex as one on a more modern car), which is to make sure there are no bad earths on the car. Failing gauges are a common symptom of a bad earth somewhere on the car, and if that’s the case, you might find this is also causing the starting problems by not allowing the battery to fully charge when the car is driven.

Without a doubt, the best thing to do now is the have the car electronically scanned. That’s because there are literally hundreds of things that could cause this sort of problem, ranging from (but hardly limited to) a sick fuel pump, a blocked fuel filter, worn injectors, a fuel leak, poor ignition, a low-voltage battery, dirty air-filter, blocked or damaged exhaust, a stray electrical problem and much, much more. Even something simple like a fuel rail that is not holding pressure when the engine is switched off, can lead to symptoms very much like yours.

Hopefully, the on-board computer has logged these random starting problems and will be able to tell a mechanic what’s wrong. Otherwise you’ll simply continue replacing parts that weren’t the problem in the first place. And that costs time and lots of money.