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Toyota Prius V
EXPERT RATING
6.9
/ 10
See our complete guide for the Toyota Prius V

Toyota Prius V Pricing and Specs

2020 price from
$35,400*

The Toyota Prius V is available from $35,400 to $45,380 for the 2020 Wagon across a range of models.

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Year Price From Price To
2021 $35,400 $45,380
2020 $35,400 $45,380
2019 $25,600 $43,560
2018 $22,800 $39,600
2017 $21,300 $37,070
2016 $19,500 $34,760
2015 $17,800 $32,560
2014 $16,500 $29,700
2013 $14,600 $26,620
2012 $12,400 $23,210

Toyota Prius V FAQs

Check out real-world situations relating to the Toyota here, particularly what our experts have to say about them.

  • Is the 2021 Yaris Cross Hybrid suitable for highway driving and gravel-road use?

    The Yaris Cross will be more than capable of maintaining a speed of 110km/h on the freeway, Fred. The hybrid driveline, however, is all about saving fuel, not making it the performance leader of the Yaris Cross family. Bear in mind, you have two options with a Yaris Cross Hybrid; two or four-wheel-drive, and the latter is going to be a bit slower to reach cruising speed thanks to the extra mass of that driveline in what is already a relatively hefty (hybrid) hatchback.

    Given you’ve nominated some gravel-road use (not to mention shallow water crossings) I reckon the all-wheel-drive Hybrid might just be the one for you (and your wife). The extra grip of all-wheel-drive when it could be of most benefit (which will be relatively often on loose gravel surfaces) buys you an extra safety margin. As for water crossings, even though it has lots of batteries, controllers and an electric motor on board, Toyota tells me that the Hybrid version of the Yaris Cross has been tested to the same standards as any other Yaris Cross version.

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  • Do the Toyota Corolla hybrid tyre repair kits actually work?

    Toyota’s approach to this matter is interesting. When it comes to the hybrid versions of the new Corolla, the SX variant gets a space-saver spare while the ZR hybrid gets a repair kit. But some of the other petrol-only and entry-level models get a space-saver and a repair kit.

    The repair kit will work provided you’re familiar with how to use it and the leak in the tyre isn’t a huge, gaping gash in the sidewall. If that’s the case, you’re snookered. But if it’s just a nail you’ve run over that’s causing the leak, the repair kit will work. Even so, your next destination should be a tyre shop to have the puncture repaired properly.

    Space-saver spares are another matter. While they’ll get you going again after a flat tyre, they can make a vehicle very unstable to drive at any speed and over any distance. That’s why they have an 80km-at-80km/h limit applied to them. But as an alternative to walking home, they’re better than nothing. But since some Corollas come with both a space-saver spare and a repair kit, why not lean on the salesperson when doing the deal and asking them to include one of each? Make it a condition of the sale and I bet you’ll get what you want.

    The other thing to think about is what you’re likely to do if you get a flat tyre. Are you the sort of person who’s going to change a flat tyre themselves and continue on, or are you the urban-dwelling, roadside-assistance type who will call for back-up? If you’re the latter – and there’s no shame in that - then none of this stuff matters in the first place.

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  • Why does my 2007 Toyota Hiace make a whistling noise?

    I’ll take a stab in the dark here and suggest that your van is a turbo-diesel (there was a petrol version offered as well, but the diesel was much more popular). If that’s the case, you could be dealing with a turbocharger that’s showing wear. Specifically, this is likely to be in the turbo’s bearing which will become noisy (and potentially emit a whistling noise) as the bearing starts to degrade. Turbochargers often spin at speeds of up to 250,000rpm, so the bearing really has its work cut out.

    The clue to all this is that the vehicle starts whistling when you press the throttle; that is, when you place a load on the engine and ask the turbocharger to start providing boost. That’s when the worn bearing becomes loaded (and noisy). But you could also be looking at something much simpler such as an exhaust that has collapsed internally and is offering a whistling soundtrack, or even a loose piece of intake plumbing that is also allowing the air passing over it to whistle. Perhaps there’s something in the gearbox that is making a high-pitched noise as well. You really need to have the vehicle looked at by somebody who knows their HiAces and take it from there.
     

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Disclaimer: You acknowledge and agree that all answers are provided as a general guide only and should not be relied upon as bespoke advice. Carsguide is not liable for the accuracy of any information provided in the answers.

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