Advice

It’s a horrible feeling - you turn the key on your car and nothing happens. The most common cause of a car failing to start is a flat battery and the easiest way to get it going is, typically, to find a friend who can give you a jump start. But what happens if you have a dead battery and no other car to help you jump start or any jumper cables?

Like running with scissors, swimming after eating and sitting too close to the television - using your mobile phone at a petrol station is just one of those things you’ve always been told not to do.But why? What is the scientific reason for it?  What are the petrol station rules and regulations in Australia? And is it really that dangerous or just an urban myth? In this article we’ll answer all those questions so you’ll know what rules to follow and why.The simple reason is the fear of a spark from the phone igniting petrol vapours and creating a fire or explosion. Static electricity, which can be generated from a phone or other sources, can create a spark too and is therefore another concern.However, these are considered incredibly unlikely by most experts. But in an age of workplace safety importance, petrol station operators are unwilling to take any risks - hence the blanket ban.Service station operators are happy for you to use your phone while in your car or in the store, but it is against the rules to use it in the forecourt around the petrol bowsers.Although, be mindful if you sit in your car at a petrol bowser checking emails or social media, you might cause a traffic jam at busy times, so be mindful of other drivers.There are other risks beyond simply starting a fire. Using a phone while filling petrol into your car is simply a distracted state to be in while undertaking a potentially hazardous task. While modern petrol pumps automatically cut off when they detect the tank is full, the risk of a fuel spill remains.There’s also the simple fact that smartphones have made us dumb pedestrians and having your head buried into your phone in an area where cars are moving in and out on a regular basis is not a safe choice. It’s understandable that service stations don’t want potential pedestrian accidents on a regular basis.The concerns over mobile phones starting fires appears to be largely a myth, with very few credible reports of a spark from a phone igniting petrol vapour. The origins of this urban legend appear to go back decades, with famous Australian scientist, Dr Karl Kruszelnicki writing a piece in 2006 revealing the cause.‘Dr Karl’ claims the initial concerns are largely centred on false claims in a hoax email, which just happened to get help from an unlikely source.“This email has been traced back to a hoax email that landed in the inbox of a Shell employee in Jamaica,” Dr Karl wrote in 2006. “He rebroadcast it, but with the Shell Company signature now on the email - and this accidental non-approved signature gave the hoax more credibility.”The TV show Mythbusters tried to recreate the effect of a mobile phone igniting vapours but couldn’t.So, it seems the concerns are largely unfounded in historical events, but service station operators have chosen to take extra precaution just in case.Mobile phone petrol station law across Australia is a grey area. Legally speaking it’s not against the law to use your phone but the majority of petrol stations have rules against it. So, if you want to use the service station, you need to follow the rules of the business, thus using a phone is practically banned across the country.Short answer - don’t. Filling up your car should only take a couple of minutes, so best to leave your phone in your pocket, bag or inside the car while you pump your petrol or diesel.

A: The best way to wear a seatbelt while pregnant is to have the lap belt under your pregnancy bump, ensuring it is low and snug across your hips, and that the shoulder belt sits between your breasts and to the side of your bump, not across it.By maintaining the correct seatbelt position and checking it often during your trip.A recent study by Monash University Accident Research Centre (MUARC) that involved 1491 pregnant participants showed that despite 99.1 per cent saying they always wore their seatbelts while driving, only 41.4 per cent were wearing their seatbelts in the correct position!The lap belt should sit under your pregnancy bump, across your hips and upper thighs, not your stomach. It should be snug but not tight.The shoulder belt should go between your breasts and off to the side of your belly, resting across your chest and shoulder - not your neck or arm. Check your states relevant rules on whether a sash guide is allowed.Never place the lap belt over your belly, and never tuck the shoulder belt behind your back or under your arm.This positioning ensures you get the protection you need in a collision without risking injury to your unborn baby.Pregnancy seat belt Australia - Imaged sourced from MUARC website.Ah, pregnancy. One of the most glorious and beautiful periods of a woman’s life. It can also be filled with doubt, confusion and unease as you navigate the sheer onslaught of information available. The dos and don’ts, what to buy, what supplements to take, the cravings and the pee breaks during the night which make you feel like an 80-year-old man with a prostate issue.As your pregnancy progresses, your growing bump can make standard seatbelt placement feel tight, awkward or even painful. The pressure of the lap belt near your belly (and bladder) may cause discomfort and the shoulder belt near your bump or tender breasts might also cause anxiety, especially in the third trimester.Understanding how to wear a seatbelt when pregnant is essential for protecting yourself (and your baby) in a crash and staying comfortable behind the wheel. Transport NSW says that ‘the main cause of foetal deaths in car crashes is the death of the mother’. So, it’s crucial to buckle up.Image by jcomp on FreepikYes. In Australia, wearing a seatbelt is compulsory for all drivers and passengers, including during pregnancy. Failing to wear one can result in fines and demerit points. More importantly, it significantly increases the risk of injury or death in the event of a crash.Seatbelt safety pregnancy – always buckle up! Image by senivpetro on FreepikProducts marketed as pregnancy seat belt adjusters or pregnancy seatbelt adapters sit in a murky area. Technically they can be legal if they do not alter the function of the seatbelt itself, and what that means is they must not affect the seatbelt’s ability to restrain you in a crash.According to the Australian Design Rules (ADR), aftermarket devices must not compromise seatbelt safety. Some maternity belt accessories are fine if they simply guide the seatbelt into a better position (such as low across the hips), but others may not be compliant. While there are no significant differences in laws between Australian states, always check your local road authority if you're unsure.It’s also best to choose a product that has been crash-tested and clearly states it meets Australian standards.To be frank, it would be wise to approach pregnancy belts and adjustors with a degree of caution. Currently, there is only one Australian product on the market which has had any sort of crash-testing applied to it and which has been designed to comply with our ADRs and that’s the Tummy Shield (found here). However, at $899 a pop, it poses a significant investment for the average family.Sit upright and adjust the seat to keep your back straight and ensure the belt stays in the correct position.Take breaks on long drives - stop every hour or two to stretch and improve circulation.Listen to your body. If you're experiencing discomfort, cramping, or dizziness while driving or riding, it's time to pull over and reassess.Vector from PublicDomainVectors.orgThere’s no set time to stop driving, but many women find that in the third trimester, especially after 36 weeks, driving becomes uncomfortable or tiring. If you’re struggling to reach the pedals, experiencing frequent Braxton Hicks, or just feeling off, consider letting someone else take the wheel.Always talk to your doctor or midwife if you’re unsure.For more information about seatbelt safety in pregnancy, visit your local road safety authority. Or talk to your healthcare provider.If you're interested in purchasing a pregnancy seat belt adjuster, look for products from reputable Australian retailers that mention compliance with local safety standards. Brands that focus on maternity belts or pregnancy driving safety often have detailed guidance on usage and safety.

One of the nicest things about buying a brand new car is that it should (on balance) be just about as good as it will ever be. And if there’s something amiss, then there’s the factory warranty to fall back on. But a second hand car? Not so much.Buying a used car requires a smarter, more analytical approach if you’re to avoid buying a dud. And a large part of that approach is knowing how to inspect a used car. Conducting a meaningful pre-purchase inspection sounds simple, but there’s a bit to it. There are two main ways to go about this, too.The less-hassle way is to engage the services of a company that specialises in the pre-purchase inspection, or a mechanic that you trust, to inspect the car in question and give you an idea of what’s wrong with it and how much it might cost to put right.A professional will know exactly what to look for when inspecting a car. This can cost anything up to several hundred dollars depending on where the car is, the mechanic’s hourly rate and how deep a dive you specify for the inspection.The final question of how much for a mechanic to inspect a used car should be factored into the total cost of the transaction at the outset, along with transfer and registration fees and stamp duty.The second method is to save a little money in the first instance and perform the inspection yourself. But get it wrong and those dollars you saved at first might disappear - and then some – if you miss something important. But if you know what you’re looking for, have the basics covered and can tackle the process logically and patiently, then performing your own pre-purchase inspection is definitely doable.To be honest, there’s probably a whole book to be written on this subject, but the basics of this process haven’t really changed over the decades apart from new technology requiring a few new skills.So where do you start on your pre-purchase check of any second-hand car, and what are the hard and fast rules? Just knowing what to check for is a great start. And that starts with the service books.The contents of these should tell you lots about how the car has been cared for and maintained. Missing service books (they should be in the glove box) is a warning sign as this suggests the owner doesn’t take much notice of routine maintenance. Not a good sign.You should also find receipts for any work on the car or new parts that have been fitted. Even a new set of tyres should be evident in the paperwork, so take the time to read it all rather than just flick through it in the driveway.Even before you meet the seller, you should be starting your inspection of the car. How the car looks in the driveway as you pull up to the seller’s house. Does the car sit nice and level side to side? Is it all one colour? Is it parked in a driveway or on the street? Does it look neglected in any way? Is it filthy dirty and full of junk inside? Would you be seen dead in it? All these things can tell you a lot about what you might expect as you dig deeper.And all this is dependent on rule number one of car inspections: Never look at a car in the dark, under artificial light or in the rain.Without good natural light you won’t see the minor variations in paint colour that suggest previous body repairs. Or the little scratches and dings that turn a nice car into an ordinary one. Even a wet car can hide paint or panel damage that you won’t see until it’s dried off in your driveway. If the seller has hosed the car off before you arrive, ask why.Beyond that, the body inspection needs to focus on damage, repairs and paint quality, as well as making sure there’s no rust or missing bits and pieces. Be extra wary of a car sporting fresh, shiny paint rather than the original paint it came with. That new paint could be hiding absolutely anything including poor repairs and rust that will pop out from under the paint in six months’ time to ruin your day. A low-powered magnet (like the ones real estate agents issue for your fridge) can be useful as a tool to make sure there’s no plastic filer under the paint (the magnet won’t stick to plastic as well as it clings to the metal around such a repair).Take a long, hard look down each side of the car, too. Do the panels and trim strips line up? Is the reflection in the paint uniform and not rippled (suggesting bent or badly repaired panels). And is the paint the car’s original colour? Nothing says repaired bodywork like a custom or one-off colour.Let’s move to the mechanical stuff. A look under the bonnet will tell you more than you might think. As well as checking for oil leaks, you can also pull out the dipstick and check the oil level.A car that’s low on oil is probably a neglected one, but there’s more to be learned here. How clean is the oil? It should be a nice, light brown colour. But if it’s black and thick, it either hasn’t been changed in a long time, or the inside of the engine is dirty (another sign of neglect).Of course, this only applies to petrol engined cars; diesels, even when they’re brand new, will turn their fresh engine oil black in seconds. Even so, the level should be correct.While you’re in there, check for oil leaks, loose belts, depleted power-steering fluid and – provided the engine is cold – the level and colour of the coolant.There are exceptions, but if the contents of the radiator is clear, it could be tap water which is more neglect. Most coolant is either green or red and that’s what you want to see. Check the condition of the radiator hoses, too. They should not be showing cracks or have gone hard (with age).Now take a good look at the rest of the car. The tyres should have plenty of tread left and you should also try to check things like the thickness of brake pad material remaining. This can be difficult to do within the confines of a driveway, as can checking things like the condition of the exhaust system and whether the shock absorbers are leaking or not.If it’s not possible to get under the car with a torch to check this stuff, you might have to rely on the other crucial part of any inspection; the test drive.Any used car test drive checklist begins with starting the engine and having a good look and listen without actually going anywhere. Ideally, you’ll start the car with a dead cold engine, and if the seller has already started the car before you arrived, you need to ask why.If possible, organise to come back the next day and start the engine from cold. That’s because a cold start can tell you lots about the engine.Just about any car made in the last 40 years will be fitted with electronic fuel-injection which, if all is well, should allow the car to start immediately and without hesitation, and the engine should settle into a smooth idle pretty much straight away. If it doesn’t, something’s wrong.The cold start is also when you should listen for anything like loose belts or knocks and rattles from the engine and whether there’s any smoke from the tailpipe (there shouldn’t be any).If the owner agrees, you should do the driving on the test drive. An experienced owner will often be able to 'drive around' problems the car may have and you won’t spot them. So doing your own driving is key. Don’t be afraid to let the seller come with you; they may be able to add details about the car as you go.What you’re listening, looking and feeling for is anything the car does wrong. Does it pull up in a straight line when you apply the brakes? If not, why not? Is the acceleration smooth and the engine quiet under load? Does the suspension feel nice and tight or does the car rattle and clang over even small bumps?Don’t forget the detail stuff, either. Make sure all the electrical gear works properly, and don’t forget the cruise-control. The air-conditioning is worth a test, too, to make sure it blows cold and that there are no horrible smells inside the cabin when you turn the air conditioning on.Oh, and make sure there are no warning lights lit up on the dashboard. Even if the seller insists it’s nothing major, a check-engine light on the dashboard automatically means the car is unroadworthy.There are no hard and fast rules on how to test drive a car, but abusing it mechanically is not part of the process. Drive it as you would normally, but don’t forget to give it a burst – where it’s safe to do so – of full throttle to make sure it pulls cleanly and smoothly. Juddering steering or brakes mean big repair bills down the road, and if it doesn’t feel 'right' it probably isn’t.In the old days, there was a used car inspection check list of things you needed to take with you to inspect a any second hand car. Now, it’s pretty much all contained within your mobile phone.You can use the phone’s torch to check out any dark corners of the engine bay, the camera to record details for later, including the VIN and any other information including the registration number and even the licence details of the seller.But don’t ignore this stuff, as a proper pre-purchase check of the car’s legal and ownership status is a must to avoid buying a stolen car, a car that still part-owned by a finance company or even a car that has been repaired after a bad crash.Of course, we’ve kind of focused here on buying a car privately, but, really, the exact same rules apply if you’re buying a used car from a licensed used car dealer.The difference is that, depending on the car, its mileage and age, a dealer (in most parts of Australia) has to provide a warranty which takes a bit of the pressure off you. That said the question of what do you need to test drive a car at a dealership and get it right, remains the same as any other car.

Q: Do more countries drive on the left or right? A: It’s a significant advantage for right-hand-side countries, with approximately 65 per cent of the world driving on that side of the road. This includes some of the biggest countries and those with some of the biggest car industries - namely the USA, China, South Korea, Germany, France, Italy, Canada and Mexico.

Jeep does two things well: it makes some great off-roaders (e.g. the Jeep Wrangler Rubicon) … and it hides a stack of Easter eggs (subtle design features, not chocolate) in its vehicles.

Much like one of those tricky mathematical equations that always comes up with the same result, or Pi, no matter which numbers you enter, all personalised number plates somehow dissolve and dissemble into the same sentiment: 'LKATME'.The fact so many people are so willing to spend money on allegedly funny license plates that they will sell their vehicles separately to their hilarious number plates is an enduring mystery.And yet, for a great many people putting 'MYWRX' on their Subaru WRX, which is clearly, their WRX, somehow increases the value, to them personally, of the ownership experience.There are, of course funny number plates in Australia, and indeed the world is full of funny number plate ideas. Where can you find funny custom plate ideas? Right here, of course, or splattered all over the internet.And what justifies the description of funny custom number plates is very much a personal thing.'D3FEKT' is a weird clever number plate, because it reminds us that some of these funny personalised plates feel like they are crying out for police attention, along with 'BOOKME'.On the other hand 'OVAWRK' is a simple, effective creative number plate idea, particularly on an adventure vehicle, like the large SUV that was seen carrying this plate in Queensland.Someone just wants to get away from it all, and thought it would be worth investing in a funny custom number plate to tell other people.Funny personalised plates obviously amuse a lot of people, however, with special Facebook pages set up to recognise their comic genius, including Stupid Australian Number Plates, which has more than 46,000 followers. One particular favourite from that site is “I (heart emoji) Self”, which is simply a more colourful way of saying w****r.I also enjoyed 'FAH Q' on a classic Ferrari, 'NOB' on a Bentley and 'SEXSUS' on a Lexus. Just wow.There are, of course, general or mainstream funny number plates for sale, all over the internet, but then there are many more specific examples as well.Funny Tesla number plates, for one, take a particular approach, in line with Tesla values and tropes, like 'BYBYGAS' (clearly an American example), 'CHARGEME', which could be a cry for help, 'CO2FREE' and 'IMGRNRU'.'POWERUP' is another funny Tesla number plate that’s quite appropriate on a Tesla Model 3 Performance or similarly wild example.I do also like the 'look at me, I’m saving the world' vibes of 'R3VOLT', which is at least a bit clever.The winner for funny private number plates, however, goes to the self-aware Tesla owner in WA who went with 'TOSLA'.Another rich vein of specific private number plates is funny 4WD number plates, which include simple offerings like 'MUDDY1' and '4WDRIV', along with my favourite, 'BAABAA' on a black Jeep.Remarkably, this love of funny customer number plates is not uniquely Australian, or even western.For example, there are plenty of funny Punjabi number plates out there, some of which might not make a lot of sense if you don’t get the context.Many Punjabi number plates incorporate words or phrases from Punjabi culture, like 'Jatt' (which is a term for a Punjabi man) or 'Dhillon' (which is a common Punjabi surname). Punjabi plates also quite often use numbers to stand in for letters, so for instance '12' might take the place of the latter 'R'. Watch out for examples like 'JATTMOOD' and 'FRESHYDILLON'.You might be wondering how much does a custom number plate cost?The answer varies greatly depending on where you live, and if you’ve ever been to Queensland, where personalised number plates seem colossally common, you’re not be surprised to learn that personalised plates are cheaper there than in some states, at a costs of $165.In South Australia, personalised plates have a one-off fee of $212.In Victoria, prices for your personal plate start from $395, which is a lot more than Queensland.In Tasmania, a custom number plate will set you back from $299. Western Australia is another place that loves a personalised plate, at least partly thanks to the fact that you can get from from just $104.60.In NSW, you see customised number plates a lot less often, because getting one will cost you as much as $499. Ouch.And in the ACT, you can be paying even more for variations of a personalised number plate, with non-standard plates ranging from $573.30 to $797.40.So, very few LKATMEs in Canberra, then, clearly.

You hear the term all the time, but what is a muscle car? To be honest, there’s no hard and fast definition. Just as a coupe can be either a two-door or four-door car depending on your point of view, different enthusiasts will describe the muscle car concept differently, and there’s a range of debatable points on offer.

Financing a used car in Australia often comes with more strings attached than financing a new one and usually a higher interest rate to match. That’s not to say you can’t get a good deal on a used car loan, just that you need to be prepared for lenders to reduce their exposure by tacking on an extra premium to cover their risks.And really, you’re all in this together. You might well be buying used rather than new to save some money, but in doing that you’re obviously accepting a level of risk yourself.Used car loans usually run anywhere from one to seven years, so you can stretch your repayments well past the point where the car still smells like someone else’s dog. A longer loan term does mean smaller monthly repayments, but it also means paying a lot more in interest over time (you up the back, prepare for a math lesson).For instance, borrowing $10,000 at 6.5 per cent over three years will set you back about $306 a month, with $1003 in total interest. Stretch it to seven years and your monthly repayment will drop to $148, but you'll pay more than double the interest ($2398).That’s because interest has more time to accumulate the longer the loan drags on, even if the rate stays the same. The devil is in the retail detail with insurance companies.Current used car loan interest rates average between six per cent and 10 per cent, depending largely on your credit history and the age and condition of the vehicle you’re buying.Unsecured personal loans tend to have even higher rates (around 10 per cent), while financing through a credit card can attract rates as high as 20 per cent (I’ll let you do the interest math yourself there, but here’s a tip, it hurts).As tempting as it might be, it's important to remember the lowest advertised interest rate might not be the best deal overall, as it could involve hidden fees or restrictive conditions, like balloon payments (unlike real balloons, these are not fun and hit with a more physical bang).The best way to cover yourself is to refer to the comparison rate, which includes most fees and charges, for an accurate cost assessment.Here’s a breakdown of popular used car financing options.Secured car loans from banks or credit unions usually have the most favourable terms for used car financing. Because these loans use the vehicle as collateral, lenders feel more secure and usually provide better interest rates.However, there are often age and condition restrictions for eligible vehicles. Most lenders want a car that will still be less than 12 to 15 years old by the loan's end, and many cap it at seven years old. That’s partly because many vehicles are out of warranty by then, which increases the risk of major repairs during the loan term.While many loans allow early repayments to reduce interest costs, some fixed-rate options come with exit fees. And finally, if the car is written off or stolen, you’re still liable for any remaining loan balance, even if insurance doesn’t fully cover it.Just let that sink in for a moment - paying interest on a loan for a car you don’t even drive any more.Dealer finance can seem like a no-brainer due to the convenience and quicker approval times. However, that convenience can come with a markup. Dealer-arranged loans can have variable interest rates, which are sometimes competitive with bank loans but often higher, due to dealer margins or hidden fees.Always compare dealer finance carefully against independent lending options and check the comparison rate to avoid unexpected costs. This is why we have an internet.Unsecured personal loans can be a real lifesaver when your dream car is too old, too cheap, or listed as a private sale. These loans don’t use the car as collateral, which means you duck all the age and value limits, and you can also spend the money however you like.But the cost of that extra freedom is that interest rates for unsecured loans typically sit between seven per cent and 12 per cent, and can climb much higher for lower-credit borrowers.Lenders will also scrutinise your credit history and income more closely, since they can’t fall back on selling the car if things go pear-shaped. Make sure you compare comparison rates, not just advertised interest, to get the full picture of what you’ll owe.Using a credit card for vehicle financing is usually a terrible idea unless you have extraordinary financial discipline, but under very specific conditions, it can work.Most credit cards carry interest rates of 18–22 per cent, but some offer zero per cent introductory rates for a short period. If you close the balance before that window closes and avoid any credit card surcharges on repayments, you’re in the clear.But if you have any leftover balance once the introductory period ends, it’ll incur interest backdated to day one, and you’ll be paying through the nose.Leasing – usually via a novated lease with your employer – can be a tax-savvy way to finance a used car. Payments are deducted pre-tax, which can reduce your taxable income, cut GST on running costs, and even exempt you from FBT if you're leasing a qualifying electric vehicle (EV).That said, most providers won’t touch a car older than seven to 10 years at lease start (or 12–15 years by lease end). And while bundled servicing, rego and insurance can simplify budgeting, you’re often locked into approved providers and may face higher costs for maintaining older cars. Plus, if you leave your job, you’ll need to take over the lease, transfer it or sell the car.Ultimately, your best second-hand car finance option and repayment plan will come down to several factors, starting with your credit score. Stronger credit opens the door to better rates, particularly with secured loans.It’s also important to consider your budget and cash flow realistically. Shorter loan terms cost less overall but require higher monthly payments, while longer terms are easier monthly but costlier in total. The vehicle’s age could also limit your options to unsecured personal loans or dealer finance.If you want to improve your chance of approval, start by checking your credit report and fixing any errors before applying. A saved deposit is another great tool to have in your negotiation arsenal, and can lead to lower interest rates.You can also shop around and get pre-approvals from multiple lenders, so you’ve got some bargaining power. Finally, if your credit score is a bit shaky, bringing a co-signer or guarantor could strengthen your application.This material has been prepared for information purposes only. It should not be taken as constituting professional advice and you should consider seeking independent legal, financial, taxation or other advice to check how the information relates to your unique circumstances.

Cars with a manual gearbox are becoming a rare breed on our roads as vehicles equipped with automatic transmissions now dominate the market. But, fear not my gearbox-loving friend, for there are still new cars with manual transmissions for sale in Australia.What is a manual car?Here's a super-simplified explanation. A manual car is a vehicle that has a manual gearbox, not an automatic transmission.A manual car has three pedals - from the driver’s point of view, left to right, a clutch, brake and accelerator.The clutch must be physically engaged/depressed by the driver (that is, left foot flat to the floor on the clutch pedal) before the gear stick can be moved in order to change gears and then the clutch must be disengaged/released in order for the car to then move forwards, via first, second, third gear etc, or backwards in reverse.A vehicle with an automatic transmission has two pedals. From the driver’s point of view, brake on the left, accelerator on the right.There is no clutch in a car with an automatic transmission because the auto does all of that aforementioned engaging/disengaging for the driver. However, the auto shifter needs to be moved to the ‘D’ (Drive), ’N’ (Neutral), ’R’ (Reverse), or ‘P’ (Park) position.Are they still popular in Australia? Yes, there are still new manual cars in Australia but they’re much less popular than in years gone by when manual cars dominated the roads, way back in those sweet pre-internet days…Are manual gearbox cars still being made? Yes, but there are fewer of them being made and cars with manual gearboxes are generally small, cheap cars or workhorse vans or high-performance sports cars.What has changed in the trends of manual car sales in recent years? When it comes time to decide manual or auto, people have increasingly favoured auto transmissions because these tech-advanced transmissions are generally smarter at selecting the correct gear ratios than the drivers themselves.What should you look for when buying a new manual car?Apart from any usual signs of misuse, damage or lack of maintenance of the vehicle itself, take the car for a test-drive and note any clunking or grinding noises emanating from the gearbox or if it slips out of gear, or if there are strong burning smells (transmission is overheating, low fluid level), obvious leaks (worn-out seals or gaskets) and/or the ‘check engine’ light comes on.Here are the top five manual cars available in Australia as new or, in the case of one particular vehicle listed here, near new.Read on.This all-wheel drive Rexxy has a 2.4-litre turbocharged, horizontally-opposed direct-injection 'boxer' four-cylinder, petrol engine (202kW at 5600rpm and 350Nm at 2000-5200rpm) and a six-speed manual gearbox.Punchy off the mark and gutsy on the move, this is a driver’s car, through and through, with the added bonus of Recaro front seats, Brembo brakes (with ventilated and drilled brake discs) and 19-inch matt-grey alloy wheels.The WRX made this list because what’s not to like about this Subie?Price: From $67,540 (MSRP)Small manual cars are still popular as they’re at the cheaper end of the market and so more budget-friendly than their automatic stablemates or rivals.This Hyundai has a punchy 2.0-litre four-cylinder turbo-petrol engine (206kW and 392Nm) and six-speed manual. This neat all-rounder offers plenty of driver enjoyment in a modest package.This compact car made the list because of its bang-for-buck appeal.Price: From $50,000 (MSRP)This range of traditional workhorses retain its appeal – and its manual gearbox options across WorkMate, SR and SR5 variants.Manual utes are still popular in Australia, as is a manual 4x4 or manual 4WD or manual SUV. An SR5 with a six-speed manual gearbox and a 2.8-litre four-cylinder turbo-diesel engine (150kW and 420Nm) is a solid mid-range choice in the HiLux line-up.This ute made the list because it’s a manual labour legend.Price: From $60,670 (MSRP)Manual hybrid cars offer a great compromise between driving an EV and driving an internal combustion engine vehicle; you get the self-satisfied smugness of knowing you’re helping to prevent the world from turning into even more of a natural disaster-riddled hothouse than it already is, and you can drive around without any EV-related range anxiety.The cheapest Suzuki Swift Hybrid variant is this one, with a 1.2-litre naturally aspirated three-cylinder petrol engine (with 12-volt mild-hybrid assistance; 60kW and 110Nm) and a five-speed manual gearbox.This Zook made the list because it’s an impressive little all-rounder in a hybrid package.Price: From $24,490, drive-awaySure, it was technically released last year, but how could we not include the Ford Mustang Dark Horse?This wild beast of a car is a driver’s dream; it’s like driving a go-kart which has ingested a heavy dose of some kind of illicit substance.With a 5.0-litre V8 petrol engine (345kW and 550Nm) and a super-slick six-speed manual gearbox, the Mustang in Dark Horse is a barrel of laughs to steer around.The Mustang made this list because it’s a shedload of fun.Price: $98,017 (MSRP)