Advice

Q: Do more countries drive on the left or right? A: It’s a significant advantage for right-hand-side countries, with approximately 65 per cent of the world driving on that side of the road. This includes some of the biggest countries and those with some of the biggest car industries - namely the USA, China, South Korea, Germany, France, Italy, Canada and Mexico.

Jeep does two things well: it makes some great off-roaders (e.g. the Jeep Wrangler Rubicon) … and it hides a stack of Easter eggs (subtle design features, not chocolate) in its vehicles.

Much like one of those tricky mathematical equations that always comes up with the same result, or Pi, no matter which numbers you enter, all personalised number plates somehow dissolve and dissemble into the same sentiment: 'LKATME'. The fact so many people are so willing to spend money on allegedly funny license plates that they will sell their vehicles separately to their hilarious number plates is an enduring mystery. And yet, for a great many people putting 'MYWRX' on their Subaru WRX, which is clearly, their WRX, somehow increases the value, to them personally, of the ownership experience. There are, of course funny number plates in Australia, and indeed the world is full of funny number plate ideas. Where can you find funny custom plate ideas? Right here, of course, or splattered all over the internet. And what justifies the description of funny custom number plates is very much a personal thing. 'D3FEKT' is a weird clever number plate, because it reminds us that some of these funny personalised plates feel like they are crying out for police attention, along with 'BOOKME'. On the other hand 'OVAWRK' is a simple, effective creative number plate idea, particularly on an adventure vehicle, like the large SUV that was seen carrying this plate in Queensland. Someone just wants to get away from it all, and thought it would be worth investing in a funny custom number plate to tell other people. Funny personalised plates obviously amuse a lot of people, however, with special Facebook pages set up to recognise their comic genius, including Stupid Australian Number Plates, which has more than 46,000 followers. One particular favourite from that site is “I (heart emoji) Self”, which is simply a more colourful way of saying w****r. I also enjoyed 'FAH Q' on a classic Ferrari, 'NOB' on a Bentley and 'SEXSUS' on a Lexus. Just wow. There are, of course, general or mainstream funny number plates for sale, all over the internet, but then there are many more specific examples as well. Funny Tesla number plates, for one, take a particular approach, in line with Tesla values and tropes, like 'BYBYGAS' (clearly an American example), 'CHARGEME', which could be a cry for help, 'CO2FREE' and 'IMGRNRU'. 'POWERUP' is another funny Tesla number plate that’s quite appropriate on a Tesla Model 3 Performance or similarly wild example. I do also like the 'look at me, I’m saving the world' vibes of 'R3VOLT', which is at least a bit clever. The winner for funny private number plates, however, goes to the self-aware Tesla owner in WA who went with 'TOSLA'. Another rich vein of specific private number plates is funny 4WD number plates, which include simple offerings like 'MUDDY1' and '4WDRIV', along with my favourite, 'BAABAA' on a black Jeep. Remarkably, this love of funny customer number plates is not uniquely Australian, or even western. For example, there are plenty of funny Punjabi number plates out there, some of which might not make a lot of sense if you don’t get the context. Many Punjabi number plates incorporate words or phrases from Punjabi culture, like 'Jatt' (which is a term for a Punjabi man) or 'Dhillon' (which is a common Punjabi surname). Punjabi plates also quite often use numbers to stand in for letters, so for instance '12' might take the place of the latter 'R'. Watch out for examples like 'JATTMOOD' and 'FRESHYDILLON'. You might be wondering how much does a custom number plate cost? The answer varies greatly depending on where you live, and if you’ve ever been to Queensland, where personalised number plates seem colossally common, you’re not be surprised to learn that personalised plates are cheaper there than in some states, at a costs of $165. In South Australia, personalised plates have a one-off fee of $212. In Victoria, prices for your personal plate start from $395, which is a lot more than Queensland. In Tasmania, a custom number plate will set you back from $299. Western Australia is another place that loves a personalised plate, at least partly thanks to the fact that you can get from from just $104.60. In NSW, you see customised number plates a lot less often, because getting one will cost you as much as $499. Ouch. And in the ACT, you can be paying even more for variations of a personalised number plate, with non-standard plates ranging from $573.30 to $797.40. So, very few LKATMEs in Canberra, then, clearly.

You hear the term all the time, but what is a muscle car? To be honest, there’s no hard and fast definition. Just as a coupe can be either a two-door or four-door car depending on your point of view, different enthusiasts will describe the muscle car concept differently, and there’s a range of debatable points on offer.

Financing a used car in Australia often comes with more strings attached than financing a new one and usually a higher interest rate to match. That’s not to say you can’t get a good deal on a used car loan, just that you need to be prepared for lenders to reduce their exposure by tacking on an extra premium to cover their risks. And really, you’re all in this together. You might well be buying used rather than new to save some money, but in doing that you’re obviously accepting a level of risk yourself. Used car loans usually run anywhere from one to seven years, so you can stretch your repayments well past the point where the car still smells like someone else’s dog. A longer loan term does mean smaller monthly repayments, but it also means paying a lot more in interest over time (you up the back, prepare for a math lesson). For instance, borrowing $10,000 at 6.5 per cent over three years will set you back about $306 a month, with $1003 in total interest. Stretch it to seven years and your monthly repayment will drop to $148, but you'll pay more than double the interest ($2398). That’s because interest has more time to accumulate the longer the loan drags on, even if the rate stays the same. The devil is in the retail detail with insurance companies. Current used car loan interest rates average between six per cent and 10 per cent, depending largely on your credit history and the age and condition of the vehicle you’re buying. Unsecured personal loans tend to have even higher rates (around 10 per cent), while financing through a credit card can attract rates as high as 20 per cent (I’ll let you do the interest math yourself there, but here’s a tip, it hurts). As tempting as it might be, it's important to remember the lowest advertised interest rate might not be the best deal overall, as it could involve hidden fees or restrictive conditions, like balloon payments (unlike real balloons, these are not fun and hit with a more physical bang). The best way to cover yourself is to refer to the comparison rate, which includes most fees and charges, for an accurate cost assessment. Here’s a breakdown of popular used car financing options. Secured car loans from banks or credit unions usually have the most favourable terms for used car financing. Because these loans use the vehicle as collateral, lenders feel more secure and usually provide better interest rates. However, there are often age and condition restrictions for eligible vehicles. Most lenders want a car that will still be less than 12 to 15 years old by the loan's end, and many cap it at seven years old. That’s partly because many vehicles are out of warranty by then, which increases the risk of major repairs during the loan term. While many loans allow early repayments to reduce interest costs, some fixed-rate options come with exit fees. And finally, if the car is written off or stolen, you’re still liable for any remaining loan balance, even if insurance doesn’t fully cover it. Just let that sink in for a moment - paying interest on a loan for a car you don’t even drive any more. Dealer finance can seem like a no-brainer due to the convenience and quicker approval times. However, that convenience can come with a markup. Dealer-arranged loans can have variable interest rates, which are sometimes competitive with bank loans but often higher, due to dealer margins or hidden fees. Always compare dealer finance carefully against independent lending options and check the comparison rate to avoid unexpected costs. This is why we have an internet. Unsecured personal loans can be a real lifesaver when your dream car is too old, too cheap, or listed as a private sale. These loans don’t use the car as collateral, which means you duck all the age and value limits, and you can also spend the money however you like. But the cost of that extra freedom is that interest rates for unsecured loans typically sit between seven per cent and 12 per cent, and can climb much higher for lower-credit borrowers. Lenders will also scrutinise your credit history and income more closely, since they can’t fall back on selling the car if things go pear-shaped. Make sure you compare comparison rates, not just advertised interest, to get the full picture of what you’ll owe. Using a credit card for vehicle financing is usually a terrible idea unless you have extraordinary financial discipline, but under very specific conditions, it can work. Most credit cards carry interest rates of 18–22 per cent, but some offer zero per cent introductory rates for a short period. If you close the balance before that window closes and avoid any credit card surcharges on repayments, you’re in the clear. But if you have any leftover balance once the introductory period ends, it’ll incur interest backdated to day one, and you’ll be paying through the nose. Leasing – usually via a novated lease with your employer – can be a tax-savvy way to finance a used car. Payments are deducted pre-tax, which can reduce your taxable income, cut GST on running costs, and even exempt you from FBT if you're leasing a qualifying electric vehicle (EV). That said, most providers won’t touch a car older than seven to 10 years at lease start (or 12–15 years by lease end). And while bundled servicing, rego and insurance can simplify budgeting, you’re often locked into approved providers and may face higher costs for maintaining older cars. Plus, if you leave your job, you’ll need to take over the lease, transfer it or sell the car. Ultimately, your best second-hand car finance option and repayment plan will come down to several factors, starting with your credit score. Stronger credit opens the door to better rates, particularly with secured loans. It’s also important to consider your budget and cash flow realistically. Shorter loan terms cost less overall but require higher monthly payments, while longer terms are easier monthly but costlier in total. The vehicle’s age could also limit your options to unsecured personal loans or dealer finance. If you want to improve your chance of approval, start by checking your credit report and fixing any errors before applying. A saved deposit is another great tool to have in your negotiation arsenal, and can lead to lower interest rates. You can also shop around and get pre-approvals from multiple lenders, so you’ve got some bargaining power. Finally, if your credit score is a bit shaky, bringing a co-signer or guarantor could strengthen your application. This material has been prepared for information purposes only. It should not be taken as constituting professional advice and you should consider seeking independent legal, financial, taxation or other advice to check how the information relates to your unique circumstances.

Cars with a manual gearbox are becoming a rare breed on our roads as vehicles equipped with automatic transmissions now dominate the market. But, fear not my gearbox-loving friend, for there are still new cars with manual transmissions for sale in Australia. What is a manual car? Here's a super-simplified explanation. A manual car is a vehicle that has a manual gearbox, not an automatic transmission. A manual car has three pedals - from the driver’s point of view, left to right, a clutch, brake and accelerator. The clutch must be physically engaged/depressed by the driver (that is, left foot flat to the floor on the clutch pedal) before the gear stick can be moved in order to change gears and then the clutch must be disengaged/released in order for the car to then move forwards, via first, second, third gear etc, or backwards in reverse. A vehicle with an automatic transmission has two pedals. From the driver’s point of view, brake on the left, accelerator on the right. There is no clutch in a car with an automatic transmission because the auto does all of that aforementioned engaging/disengaging for the driver. However, the auto shifter needs to be moved to the ‘D’ (Drive), ’N’ (Neutral), ’R’ (Reverse), or ‘P’ (Park) position. Are they still popular in Australia? Yes, there are still new manual cars in Australia but they’re much less popular than in years gone by when manual cars dominated the roads, way back in those sweet pre-internet days… Are manual gearbox cars still being made? Yes, but there are fewer of them being made and cars with manual gearboxes are generally small, cheap cars or workhorse vans or high-performance sports cars. What has changed in the trends of manual car sales in recent years? When it comes time to decide manual or auto, people have increasingly favoured auto transmissions because these tech-advanced transmissions are generally smarter at selecting the correct gear ratios than the drivers themselves. What should you look for when buying a new manual car? Apart from any usual signs of misuse, damage or lack of maintenance of the vehicle itself, take the car for a test-drive and note any clunking or grinding noises emanating from the gearbox or if it slips out of gear, or if there are strong burning smells (transmission is overheating, low fluid level), obvious leaks (worn-out seals or gaskets) and/or the ‘check engine’ light comes on. Here are the top five manual cars available in Australia as new or, in the case of one particular vehicle listed here, near new. Read on. This all-wheel drive Rexxy has a 2.4-litre turbocharged, horizontally-opposed direct-injection 'boxer' four-cylinder, petrol engine (202kW at 5600rpm and 350Nm at 2000-5200rpm) and a six-speed manual gearbox. Punchy off the mark and gutsy on the move, this is a driver’s car, through and through, with the added bonus of Recaro front seats, Brembo brakes (with ventilated and drilled brake discs) and 19-inch matt-grey alloy wheels. The WRX made this list because what’s not to like about this Subie? Price: From $67,540 (MSRP) Small manual cars are still popular as they’re at the cheaper end of the market and so more budget-friendly than their automatic stablemates or rivals. This Hyundai has a punchy 2.0-litre four-cylinder turbo-petrol engine (206kW and 392Nm) and six-speed manual. This neat all-rounder offers plenty of driver enjoyment in a modest package. This compact car made the list because of its bang-for-buck appeal. Price: From $50,000 (MSRP) This range of traditional workhorses retain its appeal – and its manual gearbox options across WorkMate, SR and SR5 variants. Manual utes are still popular in Australia, as is a manual 4x4 or manual 4WD or manual SUV. An SR5 with a six-speed manual gearbox and a 2.8-litre four-cylinder turbo-diesel engine (150kW and 420Nm) is a solid mid-range choice in the HiLux line-up. This ute made the list because it’s a manual labour legend. Price: From $60,670 (MSRP) Manual hybrid cars offer a great compromise between driving an EV and driving an internal combustion engine vehicle; you get the self-satisfied smugness of knowing you’re helping to prevent the world from turning into even more of a natural disaster-riddled hothouse than it already is, and you can drive around without any EV-related range anxiety. The cheapest Suzuki Swift Hybrid variant is this one, with a 1.2-litre naturally aspirated three-cylinder petrol engine (with 12-volt mild-hybrid assistance; 60kW and 110Nm) and a five-speed manual gearbox. This Zook made the list because it’s an impressive little all-rounder in a hybrid package. Price: From $24,490, drive-away Sure, it was technically released last year, but how could we not include the Ford Mustang Dark Horse? This wild beast of a car is a driver’s dream; it’s like driving a go-kart which has ingested a heavy dose of some kind of illicit substance. With a 5.0-litre V8 petrol engine (345kW and 550Nm) and a super-slick six-speed manual gearbox, the Mustang in Dark Horse is a barrel of laughs to steer around. The Mustang made this list because it’s a shedload of fun. Price: $98,017 (MSRP)

What Do Seatbelt Cameras Look Like? Seatbelt detection cameras are advanced traffic enforcement tools that use high-resolution imaging and artificial intelligence (AI) to identify drivers and front-seat passengers not wearing seatbelts properly. These cameras capture images from elevated angles to monitor compliance with seatbelt laws. The AI system analyses these images to detect violations, such as not wearing a seatbelt or wearing it incorrectly. For example, under the arm rather than across the chest. If a potential offence is detected, the image is reviewed by a human before a fine is issued. What Are Seatbelt Detection Cameras and What Are They For? These cameras use AI to scan vehicles and spot anyone not wearing their seatbelt or wearing it incorrectly. Their job is simple: reduce injuries and deaths on the road by enforcing seatbelt laws. They also double as mobile phone detection units, picking up drivers using their phones illegally. If you’re caught, it’s not instant. A flagged image is reviewed by a human before a fine or demerit points are issued. That depends on the state. NSW keeps locations under wraps. Victoria is more transparent, with camera locations published monthly. Queensland gives updates via the Department of Transport. WA's system is newer, but info is starting to trickle out about where trailers are set up. If you’re asking because you want to dodge them, it’s smarter to assume they’re everywhere and just do the right thing. All states employ AI technology to analyse images for seatbelt compliance, but the specific systems and deployment of cameras may differ. What do mobile phone and seat belt detection camera look like in NSW? They’re mostly fixed installations on overpasses and poles. The detection technology has been integrated with mobile phone detection systems. They capture drivers and passengers not wearing seatbelts correctly including if it’s slung under the arm. Fines and demerits began to apply from July 2024. In NSW, a driver or passenger not wearing a properly adjusted and fastened seatbelt can face a $410 fine and three demerit points. If a driver is caught with two passengers not wearing a seatbelt, then the fine rises to $818 but the demerit points remain at three. Seatbelt camera locations are not publicly disclosed. Mobile phone and seatbelt detection cameras in Vic are found on mobile trailers or roadside poles. They use AI to scan for phone use and seatbelt compliance. Unlike NSW, locations of these cameras are updated monthly on relevant government sites, like this one. There is a $395 fine for not wearing a seatbelt correctly, and three demerit points. In Qld what do phone and seatbelt cameras look like? They can be a fixed camera, where they are fitted to existing infrastructure and operate 24 hours, seven days a week. Or they can be portable cameras, which are used at random locations in both urban and regional areas for shorter periods. Their locations are based on where road crash injuries or fatalities have occurred where using a mobile phone or not wearing a seatbelt were contributing factors. Phone and seatbelt cameras detect violations from 10 to 20 metres away. There is a steep fine of up to $1161 and four demerit points if you or your front passenger aren't wearing a seatbelt properly. Yikes. Queensland government wants you to know where the cameras are, to assist with awareness and, hopefully, prevention. You can find current locations here. Cameras are mounted on mobile trailers and typically parked by the roadside. They use the same infrared and AI tech as other states but cameras are newer and still rolling out. Camera locations are not always disclosed, but currently (in 2025) six mobile safety camera trailers have been deployed across the state. As a general summary, your seatbelt buckle must be clicked in and your top seatbelt sash has to be properly positioned across your body. You can't be wearing seatbelt under arm. Passenger not wearing seatbelt? You’re responsible too, and it will cost you a fine. Seatbelt demerit points add up fast, especially in Qld and NSW. Seatbelt detection cameras are here to stay, and they’re getting smarter. Despite motorists' grumbles, they're not just about fines - they're about saving lives. Wherever you are in Australia, the message is the same, buckle up properly, don’t touch your phone and you won’t need to worry about where the cameras are.

Can you drive a manual car with an automatic license in Australia? Like Ford vs Holden, the debate between manual vs automatic was once a great divide in Australia. But in recent years more and more people have chosen to skip learning how to drive and change gears themselves, and opted for an automatic-only license. But what exactly are the rules around it in each Australian state and territory?  In this article we’ll break down the key questions, like, ‘do you need a manual license?’ And find out ‘can you drive manual on full license?’ The rules are fairly straightforward, but it is important to know exactly what they are before you get behind the wheel. Naturally, if you break rules the penalty for driving manual on auto license can be significant but it varies from state-to-state and will be determined by the individual circumstances, but expect both a fine and demerit points.  If you decide to get your New South Wales provisional P1 driver’s license in an automatic-equipped car you cannot drive a manual unless you are being supervised by someone with an unrestricted license.  Alternatively, you can wait until you get your P2 or unrestricted license, at which point you are free to drive either an automatic or manual vehicle. If that’s taking too long, your final option is to sit your P1 test again but do so in a vehicle equipped with a manual gearbox. In Victoria an automatic-only license is known as an ‘A condition’ license and is valid during your probationary period. Once you complete your probationary period, you are free to drive a manual vehicle without any further testing. Things are slightly stricter in Queensland, with anyone wanting to drive a manual transmission vehicle needing to pass a specific test, even if they have their open license. To achieve this you will need to learn with supervision from someone with an open license or when you are a learner with L plates displayed. South Australia has a simple approach - your driver’s license (not your provisional license) allows you to drive either type of transmission.  Western Australia follows a similar strategy to Queensland, with a clear difference between a manual (C class) and automatic (C-A class) licence. In order to drive a manual you must pass the specific practical test, even if you have your full licence. Tasmania has some of the strictest practices in this regard, with drivers on an automatic licence required to spend at least three years (without any suspensions or disqualifications) before they are allowed to drive a manual without any additional testing. Even if you have your full licence, to practice driving a manual vehicle on an automatic licence you will need to display an L plate, be restricted to 90km/h and be accompanied by a qualified manual driver. However, if you need to drive a manual sooner than three years, you will need to pass a driving assessment in a manual vehicle. The nation’s capital is another to take a firmer stance. It’s automatic only until you pass a specific manual test regardless of what licence you have. In the Northern Territory you are able to drive a manual vehicle on your provisional automatic licence, provided you are supervised by a manual-licence holder. You can choose to take a manual driving test during your 12-month probationary licence period, or when you graduate to your full licence the restriction is removed anyway.

Australians don’t tend to haggle much. We generally don’t like it, and our society is structured in such a way that it’s difficult to imagine haggling over the price of, say, your lunch, a movie ticket or a day’s parking at the airport. But there are times when haggling and negotiating can save you plenty of cash. Next time you’re buying a new fridge or other appliance, don’t be too shy to ask if that’s the best price the store can do. You might be amazed at how quickly the salesperson can knock off a few dollars. Sometimes more. And then there’s buying a car. Without a doubt, this is your greatest opportunity to shine as a negotiator. Buying a brand new car can involve negotiating, but the real haggling comes into play when you’re buying second-hand. Frankly, neither car dealers, private sellers, nor even most buyers expect to pay the full asking price on a used car. That’s just how the market has developed, but it remains that it’s a great way to save yourself a few bucks and maybe even a few thousand bucks in the right situation. Okay, we’ve decided that haggling for a used car is acceptable, but when you tackle the issue of how much can you negotiate on a used car Australia imposes some regional considerations. Toyotas in regional areas, for instance, are often snapped up within hours of being offered for sale. So you won’t gain much of a discount in that case. Which is another way of saying it all depends on the the seller and the car itself. So let’s break it down into the two main ways of buying a used car and our favourite used car price negotiation tips. Knowing how to negotiate car price discounts won’t make buying a second hand car any less painful, but it can leave more cash in your pocket. Dealers are always more expensive than private sellers. That’s for a variety of reasons including the fact that a dealer has to make his or her living from selling cars, as well as the fact that they must offer more buyer protection than a private seller. That includes things like guaranteeing the car in question is not stolen, providing a roadworthy where necessary and even offering a warranty on used passenger cars above a certain price (it varies from state to state). Here's the reality: Used-car dealers expect you to want to negotiate. Even if it doesn’t spiral downwards into some kind of Monty Python haggling farce, there’s still often a bit of fat built into the price to account for this. That means you drive away in your new used car thinking you got a deal and the dealer still feeds their family. But here’s the other reality: Used-car dealers are experts at this game. Just as the house always wins in the case of a casino, a used-car dealer will never sell you a car for less than they need to. Oh sure, they’ll try all sorts of psychological stuff on you like disappearing for a minute or two to 'check with the boss if they can go that low', or maybe make you feel guilty for squeezing them so hard, but ultimately, there’s a bottom-dollar price for that car and it’s your job to get as close to that figure as possible. Don’t be afraid to go back and forth and don’t think you’ll offend them by aiming low. Trust us, they’ve heard it all before. Anybody without a thick skin doesn’t last long selling used cars at a dealership. Knowing exactly what you’re looking at might help, too. Make sure that if you’re paying the price for the top-spec model, you’re getting that exact car. New cars are often sold with add-ons that make them appear like the more expensive model, but aren’t. Don’t get caught out by that one, as the badge on the boot lid doesn’t always tell the whole story. A mid-spec car with the sunroof option is not the same as the top-shelf model with the same sunroof as standard. Ultimately, buying a car from a licensed dealer is always going to be a case of the amateur (you) versus the professional (the dealer). So the trick becomes one of calling in your own experts. Don’t be afraid to make any sale conditional on an independent inspection either by a specialist in that make and model, usually your own mechanic or your state motoring club. If the dealer doesn’t want to play ball, there’s probably a mechanical reason for that. Don’t however, be fooled into thinking the dealer’s own mechanical inspection will be either thorough or completely accurate. We’re not saying all car dealers are dodgy (far from it) but you will still find the odd one prepared to ignore mechanical faults in order to unload the car to somebody (you, again). But always keep in mind, no matter how well you think the deal is going, a car dealer will always have more knowledge of how to extract dollars from buyers, than the average buyer will ever have knowledge of how to negotiate car price discounts. Trust us, a seasoned car dealer can smell a cashed up second-hand car buyer from around the corner. So much for second-hand car specialists, what about new car dealerships that sell their trade ins as used cars? Can you negotiate used car prices at a dealership and how much will dealers come down on a used car? The first answer is absolutely. Just like new cars, most traditional dealerships will always be open to offers on a used car taking up space on their lot. If they don’t sell it through the dealership, it’ll be wholesaled for a lot less money. As for how much they’ll negotiate, it’ll come down to the same factors that used car yards and private sellers deal with; the quality of the car, its desirability, rarity and how many kilometres it has covered. Here is perhaps the most important thing to know about buying a second-hand car from a private seller: For every licensed car dealer prepared to cut a few corners or paper over the odd fault, there are probably 10 private sellers willing to commit the same – or worse - deceptions. And that’s mainly because there are no meaningful legal ramifications. A licensed dealer will be at the mercy of Australian Consumer Law should they be caught pulling a swift one. But a private seller will just claim ignorance and leave you holding the oil-leaking, rusty, rattling baby and a big repair bill. And a warranty from a private seller? Don’t be silly. So you really need to be on your toes because the private seller doesn’t even need to provide a roadworthy certificate provided you’re prepared to buy the car (in some states) with its registration suspended. This is taking a big chance, indeed. Negotiating a lower price than the asking price relies largely on a battle of the wills (yours and theirs). So step one is make sure you don’t fail the attitude test. Strolling in to the seller’s front yard and picking the car to bits in front of them is a great way to have the seller on the back foot from the word go. Sure, you need to identify the flaws and problems, but pointing them out to the owner is not going to help your cause. You actually want the seller on your side (strange though that sounds) as amicable dealings often generate the best results. Meantime, you will need to use the car’s flaws as bargaining chips during the negotiation, but simply condemning the car on the spot as a means of dropping the price is grounds for being sent packing. Also, if the seller has listed the car’s price as firm or only slightly negotiable, don’t bother making an absurdly low offer or getting upset about being told no if you do. Like buying from a dealer, you need to know exactly what you’re looking at and the problem areas you need to double check. Different cars have different trouble-spots and you need to know what they are and how to check them accurately. A second-hand car will also tell you a lot about its condition by digging into its past. In fact, knowing what to ask when buying a used car is almost as important as inspecting the car itself. Does the seller know the car’s history? How long have they owned the car? How many kilometres has it done per year? What type of driving has it done? And then check the service history. If there isn’t one, it’s time to ask some more hard questions. Finally, don’t take any private seller’s word for the car not being encumbered (finance owing on it that could become your problem if they stop making the monthly repayments). Nor should you trust that the car is not stolen and is, in fact, theirs to sell. Each state and territory has websites and services you can call on to verify a car’s identity, usually simply by providing the VIN. Actually, when it comes to what to check when buying a used car Australia has the sort of complete and accurate databases to make it quick and easy. But definitely worth the bother and the (sometimes) small cost. Which is great because the other question we hear is; is there a cooling-off period when buying a used car privately? And the answer is a very short one: No. Once the money is in the seller’s hands, you’re very unlikely to seen any of it ever again, so you need to make sure the deal and the car are right for you. And one more tip for the online generation out there. Rather than spotting an online advert and sending a text message with a silly-low offer, why not pick up the phone and actually talk to the owner. It helps identify you as a serious buyer. Oh, and if you agree on a time and place to meet up and look at the car, be respectful enough to either turn up or give as much notice as you can if you can’t make it. Talk to most people who have sold a car recently, and it soon emerges that the no-shows and tyre kickers out there are the worst part of the whole experience. Don’t be that guy or gal.

How long does a Tesla battery last? According to official Tesla-sourced data, Tesla batteries lose between 12 and 15 per cent of their capacity, on average, after approximately 321,868km (200,000 miles in American speak) of usage. If this data is correct, the average Australian driver won’t need to consider replacing their Tesla battery until 26 years into ownership, because the national average driver travels a touch over 12,000km a year. I’m going to go out on a limb and suggest people who buy Teslas, or electric vehicles in general, travel fewer kilometres than the average driver. Tesla battery lifespan is the kind of thing EV shoppers consider carefully, because they’ve all owned Apple iPhones, or Microsoft laptops, and noticed that battery life seems definitively finite. It’s important to realise, of course, that the batteries in an EV are vastly bigger. Elon Musk is aware, of course, that Tesla battery life is something buyers worry about, and it provides an eight-year/192,000km warranty with the purchase of all Australian-delivered vehicles, except the rear-wheel-drive Model 3 and Model Y vehicles, which come with a similar eight-year/160,000km warranty. The terms of these warranties are as follows; if the Tesla battery drops below 70 per cent capacity in less than the aforementioned time period or distance, Tesla covers the cost of a replacement battery. Replacement batteries for a Tesla can cost anywhere from $15,000 up to $20,000 across all models. A study in April 2024 by British motoring insurance company NimbleFins - which examined nine years of Tesla battery lifetime data - found the batteries should deteriorate by around one per cent of their range per year. In terms of how you can look after your battery, there are multiple factors that affect Tesla battery lifespan. For any electric vehicle, you want to avoid fully charging the battery to 100 pre cent regularly, to preserve maximum battery capacity. Canadian lithium-ion battery researcher Jeff Dahn claims that, treated properly and kept in the right “voltage window”, a Tesla battery can stay fully operational for 100 years, or 1.6 million kilometres. Dr Adam Best (just call him Dr Best), Principal Battery Researcher at our own CSIRO, claims that, if owners employ the appropriate maintenance techniques to prolong battery health, Tesla batteries can achieve a “pretty impressive life cycle”. But what are these maintenance techniques? Dr Best suggests you try to keep the charge level always between 20 per cent and 80 per cent, as opposed to running the battery from zero to 100 and back again, which will “help to extend the life of your EV”, regardless of battery chemistry and composition. Teslas predominantly run on lithium iron phosphate (LFP) or nickel cobalt aluminium (NCA) chemically composed batteries, while other brands like Polestar use nickel manganese cobalt (NMC). Both NCA and NMC batteries thrive in conditions where they aren’t being charged to maximum capacity and drained to empty. So if you are a responsible and battery-conscious EV driver, who can you know if your EV is responding well to your gentle treatment? What are the signs that your battery is dying, or that it’s functioning properly? Other than the most obvious indicator of declining battery capacity - getting less mileage out of each charge - other signs that your EV’s battery might be suffering are slower charging times, a change in the driving sensation (sluggishness, lack of responsiveness), strange smells or noises while charging or driving, and, of course, the Tesla multimedia system telling you that your battery may be in decline. In terms of real-world results, it’s also worth pointing to a test conducted by a Tesla Model S 70D owner, Branden Flasch. Branden's vehicle had reportedly travelled 234,964km when he put his Tesla battery to the test, and the results were very impressive. The Model S in question was purchased in 2015, and its owner charged it to 99 per cent before the test, and then drove it until the batteries were completely depleted, measuring its kWh usage to check the battery's depletion. The reported results have the Model S using 58.5kWh, roughly 83 per cent of their original 70kWh capacity.