Mitsubishi Problems

It all depends on what you call bouncing and how you define bumpy country roads. But one thing’s for sure, if the car really is leaping about more than it should, it has nothing to do with the fact that the engine is in the front. Don’t accept that sort of nonsense from anybody; a modern car should be balanced to drive and that’s that.

There has to be a degree of movement over bumps – that’s why cars have suspension in the first place - otherwise, they’d be very uncomfortable to ride in. But excess movement means there’s either a problem with the suspension itself (bushes, ball-joints or maybe even the springs themselves) or the shock absorbers aren’t doing their job by controlling and arresting the normal movement over bumps.

Again, though, it’s important to set parameters for what’s normal and what’s not. The parlous state of this nation’s country roads at the moment means it’s possible to encounter some truly momentous bumps and potholes, many of which are enough to damage a car’s suspension, not just test its limits. Meantime, start with a check of the shock absorbers and work from there. If they’re worn out or tired, they can certainly allow more movement than there should be.

Intermittent problems like this one can be very annoying as they rarely emerge when a mechanic is looking at them. However, you need to have the Mitsubishi dealership mechanic with you for a test drive as you try to make the problem occur, however long that takes. Perhaps you could video the car's behaviour next time it happens and show the workshop that way.

Common causes for a manual car to refuse to select a gear are usually down to a worn, maladjusted or damaged clutch or a poorly adjusted gear linkage. If there's a horrible graunching noise when this happens, I'd suspect the clutch, if not, it could easily be a simple matter of adjusting the selectors. Either way, this shouldn't amount to rocket science in 2024.

Just be sure not to take no for an answer; if the car has a problem, it's under warranty and it's Mitsubishi's problem, not yours. 

The NSW government website advises that you must not drive a high performance car on red P-Plates. But that’s hardly the case for a 2007 Outlander, so you should be fine. The catch is that you must also only drive cars that feature the type of transmission you took your test on. So, if you took your test in an automatic or clutchless manual car, then the Outlander you drive unsupervised must have the same transmission type, and not have a conventional manual with a clutch pedal.

Under Australian Consumer Law, all brand-new cars sold here must come with a factory warranty, but it’s up to the manufacturer where to set the time and distance limits for that model. But even the most generous car-maker isn’t going to apply a warranty to a car that is now two decades old and has covered goodness knows how many kilometres.

For reference, most new-car warranties now cover a vehicle for between five and seven years. You will sometimes find a manufacturer will help out with some of the cost of repairs if the vehicle is only slightly out of warranty (and then, usually on a pro-rata basis). And that will only ever happen if the vehicle is question has an absolutely perfect service record.

If your engine has multiple problems, the best advice might be to look for a good, tested second-hand engine and replace the whole thing.

If it was just the indicators or just the central locking, you could spend a long time figuring this out. But if both the indicators and the central locking went on the blink at the same time, any mechanic's suspicions would be drawn to the body computer. This is an ECU that controls all those functions, including cruise-control, heating and ventilation and much, much more.

If the computer unit fails or starts to behave erratically, you'll notice these functions either working intermittently or not working at all. In some cases, a new body computer will be needed, but you can try this trick at home. Disconnect the battery and leave the car overnight. You may find when you reconnect the battery, all the functions have been restored.

The other trick to try is to hold the lock button on your key fob for a minimum of 60 seconds. That, too, can often reset the body computer and reboot thigs back to where they should be. Failing that, it's off to an auto electrician.

If you had a loss of drive in every gear, the suspicion would be that the transmission is low on fluid or the torque converter is not working properly. But if it’s only reverse gear that is playing up, the chances are that the bands or clutch pack that locks the transmission into Reverse is allowing the gears inside the transmission to spin without actually transferring torque to the output shaft (and thence to the wheels).

That said, there could be other internal problems that could cause this, so a visit to a transmission specialist is the best advice. Don’t delay it either, as continuing to drive the vehicle in its current state could do more damage to the transmission.

There’s nothing wrong with your car, Regina, this is just the way a car’s air-conditioning works. And yours is behaving completely normally.

Although the fan will blow air when the car’s engine is stopped, the actual air-conditioning (which is what makes the air cold) needs the engine to be running to power the AC’s pump. Without the car’s engine, the AC pump won’t work and the air coming out the vents won’t be cold. When you start the engine, the AC pump suddenly has the power it requires and the air gets cold. That’s just how it works.

Diagnosing electrical problems remotely is a hiding to nowhere, but conventional wisdom says the wiring, earths and related switches are the first place to start. But modern vehicles also rely on body computers to control some of these functions, so that's worth a check, too.

I can only hope you raised and logged this issue with Mitsubishi when it first started happening. If you did, you have what's called a pre-existing condition under the factory warranty terms. If the problem first surfaced five years ago, that would place the flickering occurring from about 2019. Which means, as a 2018 vehicle, it would have been covered by the Mitsubishi warranty. Even if the car subsequently runs out of warranty, a pre-existing condition is still legally required to be fixed by the car's manufacturer.

You have a couple choices here. You can either go to a brake specialist or a general spare parts store, both of whom should have what you need, or will be able to order it for you. If it’s not on the shelf, metropolitan stores can generally have the parts for you the next business day. If you can wait a little longer, there are plenty of online sites that also sell the repair kits you need. Some of these sites might allow for local pick-up, but the majority of orders will be mailed to you.

Just make sure if you go down the latter route to use a secure payment system that will refund your money if the parts never turn up. Also, local (Australian) online stores will likely have a faster turnaround than overseas sellers, regardless of any price difference. If you do shop overseas, you’ll also need to decide whether you want the faster (more expensive) shipping option sometimes offered.

This definitely does sound like a build-up of carbon and soot inside the intake system of the engine. Believe it or not, this is not an uncommon problem and occurs partly because of the emissions controls forced upon engine manufacturers.

The diesel engine in your car features an EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) system which means the engine inhales a portion of its exhaust so that it goes through the engine twice and is burned more completely. That's good for emissions, but it means that exhaust soot is being consumed by the engine via the intake system.

Combine that with the oily fumes from the crankcase ventilation system (which also feeds into the intake) and you can soon wind up with a black, sticky, sooty glug that blocks the internal airways much as cholesterol blocks human blood vessels. In some cases, the only way to fix this is to remove the intake system and manually clean it out. This can be time consuming and expensive, but could easily be why your check-engine light is being triggered.

The other bads news is that this could happen again over time. The solution to that is to fit a quality air-oil separator (also known as a catch-can) which keeps the oil fumes out of the equation.