Mitsubishi Problems

Find a new tyre guy. There's clearly something wrong with your car and it needs to be fixed before it's driven any farther. Early Magnas had no provision for altering the rear wheel alignment, but by the time your car rolled off the line, Mitsubishi had changed the design of the rear axle to allow for some wheel alignment adjustment. This is a good place to start.

But really, if you can hear the tyres physically scrubbing while you drive, then you potentially have a bigger problem. And it could be related to a recall that Mitsubishi issued back in 2004. It appears that a bad batch of raw materials meant that the stamped lower control arm on the rear suspension of some Magnas was prone to early failure. The problem became apparent when the arm actually split (at either end) allowing the wheel alignment to become way out of whack. If that's happened to your car, it would explain the symptoms, but also means that it's dangerous to drive at all. At the very least it won't steer properly or predictably and that makes it a danger to other road users.

DPF technology is fast becoming the bane of turbo-diesel owners. The filter is designed to trap some of the nasty exhaust emissions of a diesel engine and then automatically burn them off at high temperature periodically, emptying the filter in the process. But way too often, this isn’t happening according to the script and filters are either clogging up, requiring a manual clean-out or, in extreme cases, complete replacement.

This is possibly what’s happened to your car and explains why both the DPF and check-engine light have illuminated. It’s the car’s way of telling you you need to act. While it’s generally true that vehicles like yours that do more highway kilometres than city running have fewer DPF problems, all turbo-diesel fitted with such a filter have the potential to give trouble. An electronic scan of the Triton should show whether the DPF and check-engine light are related.

This issue will always come down to the documented service history that each car comes with. A switched-on previous owner will not only have serviced the vehicle by the book, but will also have kept the relevant receipts as proof of this crucial work being done. We'd always choose the vehicle with a big wad of service receipts over a similar car with no (or less) evidence of scheduled maintenance.

Beyond that, the Nissan clearly has almost 50,000 fewer kilometres on its odometer, so all things being equal it probably nudges ahead at that point. In either case, the CVT transmission fitted to these cars is likely to be the major source of mechanical grief down the track. Both brands' CVT transmissions have been known to give trouble. If that bothers you, then perhaps the one to buy is the Outlander AWD with the turbo-diesel engine option. In that guise, the vehicle has a conventional automatic transmission rather than a CVT.

The 2.5-litre turbo-diesel engine fitted to the 2010 Triton uses a toothed rubber timing-belt which requires periodic replacement. Most mechanics reckon the belt should be changed every 100,000km and because of the design of the engine, the belt that drives the engine’s balance shafts should also be replaced at the same time.

The 4A9 engine fitted to your Colt has a timing chain rather than a toothed, rubber timing belt. As such, the timing chain should be fine for the life of the car, provided the necessary servicing has been carried out.

Interestingly, the Colt Plus was never officially sold in Australia by Mitsubishi, so your car must be a private import from, say, Japan or even New Zealand.

Before you even start replacing bits and pieces on a hunch, have the car electronically scanned. That will often tell you precisely what’s wrong with the car, and you can go from there, replacing only the non-functioning parts rather than a heap of components that are still working fine.

Beyond that, start with the basics. The most likely cause of an intermittent miss like the one you’ve described is a problem with the ignition system. Sometimes, something as simple as a change of spark plugs will fix the problem, and that’s especially so because that electronic scan we were talking about often won’t detect a dead spark plug.

From there, work your way through to the ignition leads and coils (a coil with a small crack in its plastic body can lead to a miss like this one). If all that checks out, you then need to start looking at the fuel delivery in terms of filters and pump pressure. This is all first-principle stuff for mechanics, but a modern car’s onboard diagnostics are so good, that a scan is definitely the first place to start.

The first thing to do is to ascertain whether the suspension has sagged or not. This can be measured quite simply and the results will tell you if the springs have lost tension or not. A canopy fitted to the Triton shouldn’t really make any appreciable difference to its ride height, nor should the world’s biggest dog, but it must be factored in. Neither should towing a box trailer have any long-term effect on a vehicle rated to tow anything up to 3100kg.

If the springs have sagged, then it’s back to Mitsubishi as you have a legitimate warranty claim.

If they’re within specification and you want more rear spring, there are plenty of aftermarket companies that can supply a spring that will lift the vehicle to the height you require. Be aware, though, that there are different limits on how high you can lift a vehicle depending on what state or territory you’re in, and major modification in this department may require an engineer to sign off on the changes.

It’s a bit hard to go past an older Holden Commodore or Ford Falcon for this brief. That said, your towing requirement means you’d be best looking at something like an AU (1998 to 2003) Falcon Ute (assuming you only need to move one other person).

These are strong, simple cars that any mechanic can deal with and parts are plentiful and relatively cheap. There are other options (older Japanese dual-cabs) but nothing really gets close to the Aussie stuff for durability and running costs. An elderly Nissan Navara, for instance, might do the job but is likely to become fragile as it ages. A two-wheel-drive Toyota HiLux is another possibility, but you’d probably be right at the limit of your towing capacity with one of those. The Falcon ute, meanwhile, can legally tow 2300kg. It’s not glamorous or sexy, but it’ll do the job and stay on target price-wise.

The other obvious contender would be an early Mitsubishi Pajero with a V6 engine. These had a towing capacity of 2500kg and are around now for very little money, certainly within your budget. They also double as a very handy off-roader should you wish.

Mitsubishi’s L300 Express was available as a four-wheel-drive model way back in the 1980s (83 to 86) and was a very popular van to convert for camping thanks to that all-wheel-drive grip that allowed it to tackle rough roads with little problem. After 1986, a few of the later model Express 4WD vans (often badged Delica) made it into Australia as private imports, and there are a few of them around now to choose from.

The requirement to be able to stand up inside the vehicle will limit your choices a little, but popular vans like the Toyota HiAce, Ford Transit and Mercedes-Benz Vito were available in a high-roof configuration. Even though they lacked all-wheel-drive, generally rugged construction means they should cope with dirt roads pretty well. They just won’t have the grip for off-road work.

As with any second-hand commercial vehicle, try to find out what it did in its previous life. A van that has been used for hard labour might well be worn out. And don’t forget, nobody bought these things new for anything other than a working life.

If, on the other hand, you’re shipping for a brand-new van, there are plenty of options from Ford, Mercedes, Peugeot, Fiat, Toyota and more. The vast majority of them use a turbo-diesel engine so will be quite economical and many also offer an automatic transmission for ease of driving. Choose the one that suits your intended layout best in terms of side and rear doors and the ability to climb from the front seat into the van area without leaving the vehicle (some have cargo barriers that will prevent this).

Perhaps the clue here is that the problem only occurs when the fuel level reaches one-quarter or less. That suggests that there’s a problem with the fuel pick-up in the bottom section of the tank. Typically, this will involve a split in the fuel pick-up line.

When the tank is full of fuel, fuel covers the split, allowing the pump to pick up fuel normally. As the level falls, the split is exposed and suddenly the pump is sucking air instead of fuel.

Alternatively, your problem could be bleed-back of the fuel pressure when the car is parked, but that would potentially affect things regardless of how much fuel was in the tank at the time. Unless the bleed-back is being caused by the split we’re talking about, in which case you’re back to square one. Either way, it would be wise to check pump pressure and delivery rate (litres per minute) to see that the pump itself is working properly and at correct capacity. Don’t rule out something like a blocked fuel filter, either, which can seriously reduce the flow of the fuel to the engine; critical in any cold-start situation.