Are you having problems with your 2011 Mazda 6? Let our team of motoring experts keep you up to date with all of the latest 2011 Mazda 6 issues & faults. We have gathered all of the most frequently asked questions and problems relating to the 2011 Mazda 6 in one spot to help you decide if it's a smart buy.
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The most likely explanation for the dealers using the 10w-30 low viscosity oil is that they have a deal with an oil company to use it. It’s more likely to be based on a commercial arrangement than anything else. Use the oil specified in the manuals and you won’t go wrong. And Mazda does approve the use of E10 in your car, so I would be inclined to use it.
Cars built after 2003, such as yours, must be fitted with a system that has been emissions approved, and I would very much doubt that anyone has mixer system that is approved for your car. The mixer system is old technology and is nowhere nearly as good as the newer injection system. Although injection systems are more expensive they are the best option.
You typically lose one to two psi in the process of connecting the pressure gauge to the valve, so if you’re checking your tyres once a week the 2 psi loss you’re seeing could simply be due to that and not actually a loss of pressure at all. If you’re checking once per month and seeing a loss of 6-8 psi then that’s something to be concerned about. A loss of pressure can occur through a faulty valve, a poor seal between the tyre and the rim, and bleeding through the tyre carcass. Using a tyre cap is a good practice because it helps prevent dirt getting into the valve and causing it to leak. I wouldn’t be concerned about sealing the inside of the tyre; any loss through the sidewall is likely to be very small.
Of those I would recommend the Mazda6 as the first choice. I would also carefully consider the type of driving you do before leaping in and buying a diesel. Diesels are best on long runs where they can operate at their most efficient; there is no advantage if you’re doing short hops around town.