Honda Problems

If the camera is physically working and giving you an image – albeit a fuzzy one – the first thing to try is to physically clean the lens of the camera. Road grime, water, dust and even spider webs can all block the camera’s lens and make for a blurry image. A soft, clean cloth and some clean water might be enough to restore clarity.

If not, then you may have a problem with moisture actually inside the lens. This will require the camera to be disassembled to some degree to clean the inside of the lens.

If the car is still running well and there’s no signs of oil burning, then the oil you’ve been using so far would appear to be the right one. Thicker oil is usually only used if the engine is starting to show signs of wear and is leaking or burning oil.

While that mileage sounds a lot, provided the servicing has been carried out promptly, it’s amazing how far a modern, quality engine like the Honda’s will go without problems.

Without knowing what the problem is, we can’t advise driving the vehicle any farther as you risk doing more damage. Clearly there’s something with the driveline and the car needs to be scanned to find out what it is.

On the plus side, often the blinking D indicator light means there’s a problem with the transmission pressure sensor, rather than a major problem inside the transmission itself. But until you can determine that for certain, driving the car at all is risking destroying something large and expensive.

This car was built before LED lighting became popular in new cars, so you should be dealing with a simple, replaceable, conventional globe. Even cars from this era that had LED headlights would also probably have had conventional indicator globes.

The trick is in finding the precise one to replace the blown one. While the rear globes may match the front ones in your Honda, I wouldn’t put money on it. The best advice is to remove the blown globe and take it to a parts store that will be able to match it precisely. Even though the two may look the same, you may find there are detail differences in the way they insert into the holder that locates and powers them. Sometimes the contact points can be different, sometimes the physical size of the globe will be an issue.

Removing the globes should be a simple matter of removing the covers over their mounts (from inside the engine bay and the boot respectively) and giving the globe a gentle push and an anti-clockwise quarter turn to release it. When replacing them, remember not to touch the glass surfaces with your fingers as this can leave a hot spot which could lead the globes’ early failure.

Honda has manufacturing facilities for the ZRV in Japan, China and Mexcio, with Australian-sold examples rolling off the assembly line in Yorii, Saitama, Japan.

These two readouts are closely linked in that one determines the other. Your average fuel consumption dictates the distance the car estimates it can travel based on what’s in the tank. But variation in these readings is perfectly normal. That’s because the range estimate is based on your most recent driving. So, if your fuel consumption has jumped from 7 to 8 litres per 100km, the computer will adjust the range down to compensate and prevent you from running out of petrol. That’s all very normal.

The bigger question is why your consumption has recently increased. Have you changed your driving style? Are you suddenly towing a trailer? Have you allowed another driver (with a heavier foot) to borrow the car? Are your tyre pressures correct? Have you added a roof rack? Do you now do more city and suburban driving than before? Is the car in need of a service and tune?

All these things can have a noticeable effect on fuel consumption, and any one of them could be the key to your fuel consumption increase and associated range reduction.

There are a few possibilities here. The first is that there’s been a failure of one of the battery cables that connects the battery to the car. If one is loose, broken or badly corroded so that it won’t let current to flow, then it won’t matter how many jump starters you connect, the thing will not fire.

A second possibility is that there’s something gone wrong with the key fob or immobiliser that isn’t allowing the car’s electrical systems to fire up. Even then, however, you’d perhaps expect to get a red light on the dashboard when you hooked up the jump battery.

What about the jump starter pack you’re using. Is it fully charged? Is it still working (some of these units die suddenly when you need them the most)? Don’t forget that some battery terminals have a built-in circuit-breaker that acts as a fuse if the car’s electrical system experiences a power spike. These circuit-breakers can be replaced or sometimes reset to get the volts flowing again.

But possibly more likely that any of those scenarios is a battery that has literally fallen apart internally. A battery is a series of cells and, if one cell collapses or fails, the battery effectively stops being a battery as the missing cell acts as a circuit-breaker. At which point, you can hook up the world’s biggest jump pack or jump battery and nothing will happen. Change the battery for a borrowed one and see if things improve.

The first generation Honda NSX was produced between 1990 to 2005, of which 18,685 examples were produced. Just 2908 of the second generation - built from 2016 to 2022 - were produced, of which just nine were sold in Australia. Honda canned the NSX from its local line-up in 2020.

There are dozens (hundreds, actually) of reasons why a modern automatic car won't accelerate through its gears properly when you take off from a standing start. These can include sensors, wiring, fuses, mechanical issues within the transmission and even an on-board computer that has lost the plot.

While the Jazz uses a CVT transmission rather than a conventional automatic with planetary gears, the Honda still makes use of hydraulic transmission fluid to operate its torque converter and effect the gear ratio changes as you drive. So, keeping the correct grade of fluid at the correct level is critical.

In most cases, the best bet is to take the car to a workshop that knows this make and model and have it scanned electronically for clues about what's gone wrong. This will ultimately be the quickest, cheapest way to find out what's wrong. From there, you can make a more informed decision on how to proceed.

However, if you want to be a little more pro-active, there are a couple of things to try. First, check the level of the transmission fluid. If this is low (due to a leak) then the gearbox may have difficulty shifting gears or taking off at all. The other thing you could try is to disconnect the battery from the car and leave it for at least an hour before reconnecting the battery. This forces an electronic reset and could fix the problem. It's a bit of a long shot, however, and you may have to recode your radio and reset the car's clock.