Ford Problems

This is one of those questions where there are no hard and fast answers. The lifespan of pretty much any automotive engine will be determined far more by the way it’s been used and maintained than any rule of thumb being tossed around the industry.

Vehicles that do mainly highway kilometres tend to last longer since the engine is under less stress than one idling in traffic and then accelerating from every traffic light. The same goes for vehicles that have never had a tow-bar fitted versus one that has hauled a three-tonne trailer every day of its life.

Servicing plays a huge part, too, and a well maintained engine will always outlast one that has had skipped oil changes and other preventative maintenance. Overall, diesels used to live longer than their petrol equivalents, but the extent to which modern turbo-diesels are tuned to deliver power and torque means that’s not always the case these days.

Over the years, we’ve seen these Ranger engines fail at mileages as low as 100,000km, while others make it to 300,000 or even 400,000km while still in good health. Common engine problems to watch out for with this model Ranger engines include failed EGR coolers, contaminated and even blocked inlet tracts, worn turbochargers, DPF problems and failures, leaking and faulty fuel injectors and coolant leaks.

As with any automatic transmission problem, the first thing to do is check the level of transmission fluid in the gearbox itself. These shouldn’t need top-ups, but if a leak occurs, they can lose enough fluid to play havoc with the gear selection and drive-transmission processes. Low fluid can cause a loss of drive in any gear, but could also contribute to a valve-body problem where the lack of fluid prevents the correct gear selection process. Low fluid can also mean the clutch-packs and bands can not exert enough pressure to get the car moving.

It's worth noting, though, that this particular transmission has a finite lifespan and a loss of third and fourth gears could be the first sign that the unit is worn out and requires either replacement or reconditioning. A transmission specialist should be your first port of all.

It certainly sounds like it could be a blown head gasket that is allowing the car’s coolant to mix with its engine oil. A brown, oily looking fluid in the radiator is a sign that this may have occurred. Check the engine oil next. If it’s milky and discoloured, then that’s another sign of a blown head gasket. That said, just because there’s no evidence of coolant in the engine oil, doesn’t necessary mean the head gasket is intact.

So, before you rip into the engine and remove the cylinder head, make sure the gasket is actually the problem. This can be done with a chemical-based test which samples the coolant and determines whether there’s any contamination in it that can be traced to the engine’s combustion. If it’s there, then the head gasket is almost certainly faulty.

The 1989 Courier was available with a 2.0-litre diesel engine or a range of four-cylinder petrol engines ranging from 2.0 to 2.2 and even 2.6 litres in capacity. You’ll need to ascertain which engine your vehicle has and then obtain the correct workshop manual for that specific powerplant. The good news is that all these engines were relatively simple and changing a head gasket should not be too taxing for anybody with average mechanical skills.

While many car-makers now profess that their automatic transmission no longer need regular fluid changes, many mechanics believe there’s no harm in doing so and, in fact, there are benefits in doing so. They include reduced wear over time and the removal of any contaminants that might cause problems. Also, if a transmission has ever reached high temperatures, the fluid should be replaced.

The thing to know is there are two types of fluid change. In the simplest, the transmission fluid is drained, the filter changed and new fluid added. Inevitably, some of the old fluid will remain in the torque converter and other components. But a more complete approach is what’s called a fluid flush where new fluid is pumped through the entire transmission, purging it of all the old fluid. The full flush method is best practice and shouldn’t cost a lot more.

Start with the basics. Is the coolant level correct (and the radiator overflow tank intact)? Are the fan belts that drive the water pump tight and not slipping? Is the electric fan turning on? Is the second electric fan turning on with the air conditioning? Are the radiator hoses in good condition and not collapsing when you rev the engine? Are the car’s brakes dragging and causing the engine to work harder than it should? Is the radiator clean and flowing properly? Is the radiator cap holding the correct pressure? Is there a build-up of mud, bugs and grass on the radiator’s surface? All these things can lead to overheating.

If all that checks out, you might have to dig a bit deeper, including a check of whether the water pump is pulling its weight (and not worn internally) whether the thermostat is operating correctly and even a test to see whether the head gasket has failed. Ford’s Ranger engines have also ben known to experience failures of the Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) valve’s cooler which is part of the overall cooling system. The 2.2-litre and 3.2-litre Ranger engines seem more susceptible to this, but it shouldn’t be automatically ruled out on the 2.0-litre engine.

Your Ranger was sold with a factory warranty that should cover it for the first five years and with no limit on the kilometres covered. Provided you’ve maintained and serviced the vehicle properly (with the paperwork to prove it) then the warranty should definitely be intact.

But whether that warranty applies to an EGR valve is the real question. Ultimately, it will depend on why the valve has failed. That’s because most warranties don’t cover wear and tear, so a build-up of carbon and soot inside the EGR system may not be covered. But if the valve has failed due to a materials or manufacturing fault, then it should, on the surface, be Ford’s responsibility to replace the unit.

If there’s any form of dispute between Ford and yourself on this matter, the best advice is to have the vehicle (and EGR) independently tested (motoring clubs are a good place to start). That way the facts should determine the outcome, rather than opinions.

As an aside, don’t be tempted to drive the vehicle any farther with a coolant leak within the EGR system. Eventually enough coolant will be lost that the engine could overheat. And even before that happens, a leaking EGR valve can allow coolant inside the combustion chamber and the turbocharger with equally devastating results.

You have a couple of options here. You can remove the stater motor and take it to an auto electrician who will be able to test it, see what’s wrong with it and give you a quote to rebuild the unit. Or, you can simply buy a new or reconditioned starter motor and fit that instead. Both these options should provide you with a warranty of some sort.

Actually, there’s a third option, and that is to visit a wrecking yard, take a starter motor off a wrecked Territory (making sure it’s the same model and engine) and fit that to your car. This will be the cheapest option, but you could easily find that the new second-hand starter motor has the same problems as the one you already have. Some wrecking yards (who like to be called parts recyclers these days) offer starter motors (and other components) that have been tested, so that would be preferable to just finding one still bolted to a wreck. You might not be offered any sort of warranty, however.

It doesn’t sound right, does it? While it’s possible for an engine to be perfect one minute and blown up the next, you’d expect some sort of warning that this was about to happen. Which begs the question of why didn’t the Ford mechanic spot that there was a problem.

Probably the best advice is to have the engine independently inspected to find out what broke or went wrong. From there, you can work out whether you were just unlucky, or the dealership missed something or somehow contributed to the engine’s demise.

For the record, these engines won’t tolerate being drained of oil for more than about ten minutes. Due to the design of the oil pump, leaving the engine drained for more than that length of time means the pump won’t work when the engine is restarted and the engine will blow up soon after. Plenty of mechanics have been caught out by this, but surely not a Ford dealership…

First instinct says the clutch is broken and not disengaging properly or at all. If that’s the case, the gearbox internals will be whirring around the whole time the engine is running and will not allow you to select a gear. If the clutch was working properly, you could disengage it, allow the gearbox internals to slow down and this would enable gear selection. That’s – very simply - kind of what a clutch does.

The fact that you can stop the engine (and, therefore, the bits inside the gearbox) select a gear and then restart the engine, also suggests that the clutch is worn or damaged and requires replacement.

Or you might be lucky and this is a simple case of the clutch hydraulics having failed. If that’s the case and the hydraulic system that links the clutch actuating arm to the clutch pedal inside the cabin has failed or seized up or run out of fluid, then you’ll get the same symptoms (because the clutch isn’t disengaging) but in a much cheaper to fix form.

The first thing to check is the level of hydraulic fluid in the clutch’s master cylinder under the bonnet. If it’s low or empty, you may have just found the culprit. Either way, these are sealed systems, so any loss of fluid suggests a leak somewhere. For the record, this model Ford Ranger did have a reputation for noisy clutch release bearings and problems with the clutch slave cylinder, the latter of which could certainly cause a fluid leak.

Any time you have oil mixing with coolant, you have a pretty major problem on your hands. In the case of your Territory, it could be that the head gasket has failed, allowing the two fluids to mix, creating the milky murk known in the trade as a 'milkshake'. It’s a bit unlikely but it could be even more serious and your engine may be suffering from a cracked cylinder head or a split cylinder liner. A blown head gasket is a lot more likely, though.

But just as probable is a problem that occurs pretty frequently with this make and model. The Territory’s transmission is cooled via a heat-exchanger that is cooled by the engine’s coolant. If the plumbing on this cooler fails (usually because of friction due to junk inside the tubing) then the engine coolant and transmission fluid can mix and also form a milkshake which you’ll see in the radiator or coolant catch-tank.

Unfortunately, if this is the case, the transmission’s computer and its hardware may also be damaged beyond repair by the coolant diluting the transmission fluid and generally causing havoc inside the transmission.

The best advice is to not drive the vehicle any farther and have it diagnosed by a workshop to see exactly what has happened.