Articles by David Morley

Sitting at the top of the Terramar line-up is the $73,490 (drive-away) VZ version.

The mid-range Terramar V is the first variant of the range to gain an on-demand all-wheel drive system. In normal driving, the Cupra will behave as a front-drive car but when acceleration or grip demands some of the torque will be send to the rear wheels. This is a great option in a family-oriented five-seat SUV like the Terramar.

The new Cupra Terramar range kicks off with the S variant of the five-seat, mid-sized SUV, which is priced at $58,490, drive-away.

The Cupra brand might be a relative newcomer, but its Terramar mid-sized family SUV proves that coming from a good family (in this case VW/Audi) isn't just a bonus for social climbers. By tapping into some classy tech and adding a splash of its own pizzazz, Cupra has aimed the Terramar at the family that enjoys the journey at least as much as the destination. But can it stand out in the crowd?

Cupra is clearly feeling a bit bullish, having delivered 9000 cars in Australia since the brand’s launch just three years ago.And confidence is high that the 10,000th Cupra will be delivered here before the end of 2025.Cupra execs recently revealed a bit of forward product information, and it's good news for petrol-heads.Cupra’s sales manager for international markets, Erdem Kizildere, told Carsguide: “We will continue to offer ICE for as long as the European Union allows it.”“ICE is the driver’s friend,” he added, “We must offer ICE for as long as we can. The petrol-heads have spoken.”Head of Cupra product in Australia, Jeff Shafer, confirmed that view, even admitting that plug-in hybrids might still be finding their way in this country.“PHEV might be a bit of a slow burn. It’s becoming a better understood part of the Australian market. Sometimes the market needs to define itself,” he said.That starts with the new Cupra Leon which will be on sale in October this year.The range will start with the S model with 110kW which suggests the new-gen 1.5-litre turbo-motor with 250Nm of torque as well.There’ll also be a VZX version of the Leon with 245kW of power for what should be epic performance and a Sports-tourer variant with a fairly conventional station-wagon layout (hooray) in VZE (a new trim level) boasting a plug-in hybrid driveline with 200kW at its disposal.The first quarter of next year will also see a flood of new Cupra models, including an all-new Leon hatchback model in VE trim and a 150kW plug-in driveline.The Born EV model is set to make a return to Aussie showrooms early next year, too.This news comes at a time when Cupra – along with the rest of the car-making world – appears to be walking back the timeline for an all-electric future.While rumours have been floating around that the new Terramar might just be the last conventionally powered Cupra, management now seems to be pouring cold water on those.

The two-step LDV Terron 9 range is capped off by the $58,937 Evolve version. This specification adds 20-inch wheels and tyres, a locking front differential, a better stereo, massage front seats and a heated rear seat.Power comes form the same 2.5-litre turbo-diesel as the entry-level version, with 163kW of power and 520Nm of torque. The eight-speed automatic transmission is the only fitment, and the Evolve continues with four-wheel drive with a low-ratio transfer-case.Claimed fuel economy is 7.9 litres per 100km (combined) but our real-world drive netted a number much closer to 9.0L. Even so, with the 80-litre fuel tank, range should be an easy 850km or more.Safety is covered off by the latest driver-assistance aids including AEB and lane-keeping assistance, but some of the calibration is too aggressive in our opinion.The cabin is a five-seater but, because of the way the vehicle is engineered, there's no cab-chassis option available.LDV offers is seven-year/200,000km warranty for the Terron 9, with service intervals at 12 months or 15,000km, with the exception of the first service at 10,000km.

The entry point for the all-new LDV Terron 9 is the Origin variant which aims to keep costs down with the fitment of cloth trim and a few omissions from the equipment list. Even so, with 18-inch alloys, large dual-info screens, full connectivity, paddle-shifter and a 360-degree camera system, the $53,674 is more than the much older LDV T60, but still relevant.Power comes from a 2.5-litre turbo-diesel engine with 163kW and 520NM, and that's linked to an eight-speed automatic transmission with low ratios for off-road work.LDV claims a combined fuel economy figure of 7.9 litres per 100km, and there's an 80-litre fuel tank for decent range.The cabin seats five but is a little larger than most dual-cabs (as is the cargo area) thanks to the overall larger external dimensions and an interesting design that makes the body side one-piece. The flip-side is that this means there's no cab-chassis variant.Safety is taken care of by driver aids including AEB, lane-departure warning, lane keeping assistance and a front and rear parking sensors.The Terron 9's warranty is a handy seven years/200,000km and servicing intervals are every 12 months or 15,000km, apart from the very first service which is scheduled for 10,000km.

Need a dual-cab ute? You’re in luck. Not only does Australia have access to a huge variety of makes and models in the dual-cab space, there is also a huge range of prices and equipment levels.

Q: How to dispose of engine oil?A: Changing your car’s engine oil at home is a great way to save a few dollars, develop a little knowledge of how things work as well as establishing a closer relationship with your car. The latter might sound a bit corny, but 'knowing' your car means you’ll get more from it, even if that’s as simple as the dollars you save each time it needs an oil change.Beyond the actual method of changing a car’s engine oil, the big question is what the heck you do with the four or five litres of used oil that is drained from the engine and replaced. Knowing how to dispose of car oil is something you need to figure out before you reach for the jack stands and spanners and dump the old oil into a drain pan.In the days before environmental awareness, this was not such an issue. And while it would make the average Gen-Zer cringe, the conventional wisdom was to pour the used oil along the fence-line of your backyard paling fence.This had three results. It stopped the weeds growing along the fence-line, it stopped the timber palings form rotting or being eaten by termites, and it got rid of the old oil. I’m not making this up.In rural areas, many farmers would change the engine oil in the family car with the old oil finding its way into the tractor or farm truck as a means of giving the used oil a second life. Then it would often find its way along the fence-line. Obviously, in Australia in 2025, this form of engine oil disposal is going to get you in big trouble.These days, of course, our greater respect for the environment means you simply can’t perform such acts of enviro-terrorism and there are some pretty hefty penalties if you were to try it.The same goes for tipping oil down a drain or gully trap. It’s just not a thing any more. Don’t forget, used engine oil can be quite acidic or contaminated in other ways, so it can be a pretty harmful commodity by the time it’s been in your engine for 10,000km. So what is the solution for getting rid of used engine oil?The simple answer is that you have to dispose of the stuff in a way that ensures it can’t find its way into waterways or into the soil, or anywhere else where it could harm flora, fauna or contaminate anything. Fundamentally, that’s pretty limiting (in a good way) but even so, there are choices to be made.Choice number one is to take the car to a workshop where the mechanic will have a bulk waste oil drum that is taken away and recycled back into useable oil. In fact, recycling old engine oil is the best outcome, because it means it gets several more chances at life and, as a finite – and expensive – resource, that’s got to be a good thing.But if you still want to change your own oil at home, you can sometimes talk to your local mechanic who may allow you to dump your oil in his or her bulk drum. Obviously, not every workshop is going to be happy with that arrangement, but if you have a relationship with the workshop and it has a deal where it gets paid for used oil to recycle, you might get the green light. Just don’t abuse the privilege by dumping all your mates’ used oil at the same time.Local councils and waste transfer stations (formerly known as the local tip) will often have recycling programs, too. You need to carefully pour the old oil into a clean plastic container and present that at the tip at the appropriate station where you will be charged a fee per litre (some councils will take it for free) for the waste oil you want to get rid of.Sometimes, you’ll need to pour the oil into a bulk drum by yourself, and you may also be able to leave oily rags at the same place. But check first. The same goes for the used oil filter. This is also contaminated with the same oil (and the metal casing can be recycled, too) and needs to be disposed of professionally, not just placed in a plastic bag and put out on bin night.Aside from your local council, there are commercial oil collection and recycling depots that will take your old oil and recycle it. Some will charge for this service, while others will take the oil for free because it’s a valuable commodity. If you have your phone handy, you can also search for “used engine oil disposal near me”.Don’t forget the auto parts store from which you purchased the new oil for your oil change. Many of these offer a collection service where you simply leave your old oil in clean containers and the shop will take care of it at no cost. But check first, and make sure you follow the rules for collection.As well as the obvious engine oil recycling (to be used again in an engine) your old oil may have a very interesting life beyond the engine in your car.Some used oil is turned into different grades of lubricating oil, some is refined into diesel fuel, while other batches can be used in commercial boilers and even burned to create industrial heating.It’s reckoned that just eight litres of waste engine oil could power the average household for a full 24 hours, so tipping it along a fence is not only environmental vandalism, it’s also super wasteful.

One of the nicest things about buying a brand new car is that it should (on balance) be just about as good as it will ever be. And if there’s something amiss, then there’s the factory warranty to fall back on. But a second hand car? Not so much.Buying a used car requires a smarter, more analytical approach if you’re to avoid buying a dud. And a large part of that approach is knowing how to inspect a used car. Conducting a meaningful pre-purchase inspection sounds simple, but there’s a bit to it. There are two main ways to go about this, too.The less-hassle way is to engage the services of a company that specialises in the pre-purchase inspection, or a mechanic that you trust, to inspect the car in question and give you an idea of what’s wrong with it and how much it might cost to put right.A professional will know exactly what to look for when inspecting a car. This can cost anything up to several hundred dollars depending on where the car is, the mechanic’s hourly rate and how deep a dive you specify for the inspection.The final question of how much for a mechanic to inspect a used car should be factored into the total cost of the transaction at the outset, along with transfer and registration fees and stamp duty.The second method is to save a little money in the first instance and perform the inspection yourself. But get it wrong and those dollars you saved at first might disappear - and then some – if you miss something important. But if you know what you’re looking for, have the basics covered and can tackle the process logically and patiently, then performing your own pre-purchase inspection is definitely doable.To be honest, there’s probably a whole book to be written on this subject, but the basics of this process haven’t really changed over the decades apart from new technology requiring a few new skills.So where do you start on your pre-purchase check of any second-hand car, and what are the hard and fast rules? Just knowing what to check for is a great start. And that starts with the service books.The contents of these should tell you lots about how the car has been cared for and maintained. Missing service books (they should be in the glove box) is a warning sign as this suggests the owner doesn’t take much notice of routine maintenance. Not a good sign.You should also find receipts for any work on the car or new parts that have been fitted. Even a new set of tyres should be evident in the paperwork, so take the time to read it all rather than just flick through it in the driveway.Even before you meet the seller, you should be starting your inspection of the car. How the car looks in the driveway as you pull up to the seller’s house. Does the car sit nice and level side to side? Is it all one colour? Is it parked in a driveway or on the street? Does it look neglected in any way? Is it filthy dirty and full of junk inside? Would you be seen dead in it? All these things can tell you a lot about what you might expect as you dig deeper.And all this is dependent on rule number one of car inspections: Never look at a car in the dark, under artificial light or in the rain.Without good natural light you won’t see the minor variations in paint colour that suggest previous body repairs. Or the little scratches and dings that turn a nice car into an ordinary one. Even a wet car can hide paint or panel damage that you won’t see until it’s dried off in your driveway. If the seller has hosed the car off before you arrive, ask why.Beyond that, the body inspection needs to focus on damage, repairs and paint quality, as well as making sure there’s no rust or missing bits and pieces. Be extra wary of a car sporting fresh, shiny paint rather than the original paint it came with. That new paint could be hiding absolutely anything including poor repairs and rust that will pop out from under the paint in six months’ time to ruin your day. A low-powered magnet (like the ones real estate agents issue for your fridge) can be useful as a tool to make sure there’s no plastic filer under the paint (the magnet won’t stick to plastic as well as it clings to the metal around such a repair).Take a long, hard look down each side of the car, too. Do the panels and trim strips line up? Is the reflection in the paint uniform and not rippled (suggesting bent or badly repaired panels). And is the paint the car’s original colour? Nothing says repaired bodywork like a custom or one-off colour.Let’s move to the mechanical stuff. A look under the bonnet will tell you more than you might think. As well as checking for oil leaks, you can also pull out the dipstick and check the oil level.A car that’s low on oil is probably a neglected one, but there’s more to be learned here. How clean is the oil? It should be a nice, light brown colour. But if it’s black and thick, it either hasn’t been changed in a long time, or the inside of the engine is dirty (another sign of neglect).Of course, this only applies to petrol engined cars; diesels, even when they’re brand new, will turn their fresh engine oil black in seconds. Even so, the level should be correct.While you’re in there, check for oil leaks, loose belts, depleted power-steering fluid and – provided the engine is cold – the level and colour of the coolant.There are exceptions, but if the contents of the radiator is clear, it could be tap water which is more neglect. Most coolant is either green or red and that’s what you want to see. Check the condition of the radiator hoses, too. They should not be showing cracks or have gone hard (with age).Now take a good look at the rest of the car. The tyres should have plenty of tread left and you should also try to check things like the thickness of brake pad material remaining. This can be difficult to do within the confines of a driveway, as can checking things like the condition of the exhaust system and whether the shock absorbers are leaking or not.If it’s not possible to get under the car with a torch to check this stuff, you might have to rely on the other crucial part of any inspection; the test drive.Any used car test drive checklist begins with starting the engine and having a good look and listen without actually going anywhere. Ideally, you’ll start the car with a dead cold engine, and if the seller has already started the car before you arrived, you need to ask why.If possible, organise to come back the next day and start the engine from cold. That’s because a cold start can tell you lots about the engine.Just about any car made in the last 40 years will be fitted with electronic fuel-injection which, if all is well, should allow the car to start immediately and without hesitation, and the engine should settle into a smooth idle pretty much straight away. If it doesn’t, something’s wrong.The cold start is also when you should listen for anything like loose belts or knocks and rattles from the engine and whether there’s any smoke from the tailpipe (there shouldn’t be any).If the owner agrees, you should do the driving on the test drive. An experienced owner will often be able to 'drive around' problems the car may have and you won’t spot them. So doing your own driving is key. Don’t be afraid to let the seller come with you; they may be able to add details about the car as you go.What you’re listening, looking and feeling for is anything the car does wrong. Does it pull up in a straight line when you apply the brakes? If not, why not? Is the acceleration smooth and the engine quiet under load? Does the suspension feel nice and tight or does the car rattle and clang over even small bumps?Don’t forget the detail stuff, either. Make sure all the electrical gear works properly, and don’t forget the cruise-control. The air-conditioning is worth a test, too, to make sure it blows cold and that there are no horrible smells inside the cabin when you turn the air conditioning on.Oh, and make sure there are no warning lights lit up on the dashboard. Even if the seller insists it’s nothing major, a check-engine light on the dashboard automatically means the car is unroadworthy.There are no hard and fast rules on how to test drive a car, but abusing it mechanically is not part of the process. Drive it as you would normally, but don’t forget to give it a burst – where it’s safe to do so – of full throttle to make sure it pulls cleanly and smoothly. Juddering steering or brakes mean big repair bills down the road, and if it doesn’t feel 'right' it probably isn’t.In the old days, there was a used car inspection check list of things you needed to take with you to inspect a any second hand car. Now, it’s pretty much all contained within your mobile phone.You can use the phone’s torch to check out any dark corners of the engine bay, the camera to record details for later, including the VIN and any other information including the registration number and even the licence details of the seller.But don’t ignore this stuff, as a proper pre-purchase check of the car’s legal and ownership status is a must to avoid buying a stolen car, a car that still part-owned by a finance company or even a car that has been repaired after a bad crash.Of course, we’ve kind of focused here on buying a car privately, but, really, the exact same rules apply if you’re buying a used car from a licensed used car dealer.The difference is that, depending on the car, its mileage and age, a dealer (in most parts of Australia) has to provide a warranty which takes a bit of the pressure off you. That said the question of what do you need to test drive a car at a dealership and get it right, remains the same as any other car.