Articles by David Morley

Mercedes-Benz has never been afraid to pioneer new tech, trends and styling. But you could argue the brand’s more conventional, old-school, take on what a compact family car could be, was the B-Class’ biggest hurdle. Certainly, by the time the world arrived at 2019, and the W247 (in Benz-speak) landed in showrooms, the concept Mercedes was chasing was definitely out of fashion. While other carmakers were adding plastic wheel-arch flares, larger bumpers and a jacked-up ride height to cash in on the tidal wave of compact SUV ownership, Mercedes-Benz stuck with a more traditional people-mover concept. The writing was already on the wall, of course, and you suspect that was the mood even within M-B, as the B-Class range shrunk from a choice of engines and trim levels to a single drivetrain package and a single trim level. And by 2024, it was all over for the concept as far as Mercedes-Benz in Australia was concerned, and the B-Class disappeared from price-lists. But a lack of fashion-sense has never meant a particular car has no other redeeming features, and the Mercedes B180 (as the single model was badged) certainly had its followers. You get the feeling, however, that much of the appeal might have been an adverse reaction in some quarter to the march of the SUV. But that was never enough to sustain the B-Class as a stand-alone, single-spec model (although, like many M-Bs, there were packages the buyers could specify). Mechanically, the B180 used a 1.3-litre turbocharged petrol engine driving through a seven-speed dual-clutch transmission to the front wheels. It was a five-door vehicle with seats for five and sold against vehicles like the Audi A3, BMW 2-Series Active Tourer and Volvo V40. The B180’s biggest problem was that it was simply an old-fashioned concept; a people-mover at a time when everybody wanted an SUV. But it was also flawed in terms of its driveline and the combination of the small turbocharged engine which could feel slow to build boost, and the dual-clutch transmission meant progress was not always as composed or serene as a Mercedes-Benz badge suggested. Quality, however, was better than some less recent Benzes and the multimedia system was modern and sophisticated. The B180 was also a very safe car with a great package of inclusions to keep you safe before and after a crash, including side-curtain airbags for every outboard seating position. As such, it makes decent sense for a younger or first-time driver, as well as smaller families. Modern Mercedes-Benzes don’t seem to share the same reputation for bank-vault reliability as some of the brand’s previous efforts. But to be fair, the B-Class of this era was a decently reliable car. That’s on the condition, of course, that it’s been serviced and maintained correctly and driven appropriately. The major problem areas with the Mercedes B180 are shared with many other cars of this era and this level of technology. Probably the main issue is the dual-clutch transmission which can be jerky on take-off and then shift harshly. Often, this is traced to old or dirty transmission fluid which a full service should solve. In some cases, the problem may be with the electronic control module for the transmission. Oil leaks are not unknown on the W247, so check under the car or on the ground where it normally parks. The fuel injectors are also somewhat prone to carbon build-up which reduces their efficiency and plays against performance and fuel economy. You should also perform a full and complete check of all the car’s electronic functions before making a decision to purchase. Make absolutely sure that every button and switch does what it is supposed to and run through all the functions of the multimedia system. Don’t forget to check the air-con blows cold and that the cruise-control works properly. The B180 was recalled only once, to warn owners that the emergency call function (after a crash) was potentially not working. A software glitch meant the car may have deactivated this function without the owner knowing. The good news was this recall required no action by the owner, as the software update was to be delivered to the car over-the-air from Mercedes-Benz. This vehicle was not subject to a facelift or other revisions during its lifespan, so there are no 'good' or 'bad' production years. In any case, as with any second-hand car, you should buy on condition, kilometres travelled and – above all else – the service history. Since the B180 was largely reserved for urban duties (and the fact that it’s still a relatively young car) only a handful for sale right now have travelled more than 100,000km, and the vast majority a lot less than that. That makes it a bit difficult to forecast what the useful life of a B180 might be, but you need to consider that the small turbocharged engine works pretty hard and that any car like this can fall victim to slack maintenance and servicing. The other point to remember is that racking up big distances in this model will make it potentially a lot more difficult to move on when it’s time to trade up. There was only one model and trim level offered in the B180 of this era, so there are no real choices to be made in terms of which variant to buy. That said, Mercedes-Benz has always been very keen on extras packages and this car was no different. With that in mind, we’d look for an example with the upgrade from synthetic leather to genuine hide, and what’s called the Vision Pack which included the full-length panoramic sunroof. The B180 was a sub-$50,000 car when it was brand-new, which means prices are getting more reasonable now, but still a substantial outlay for what is a small people-mover. The most affordable examples are now popping up for sale in the high-teens and for that you’ll be buying a car with something like 100,000km on its odometer. A fully loaded B180 with super low kilometres (less than 30,000km) on board will be closer to $30,000 with $35,000 being asked for the very best examples with all the option packs. The M-B brand has been around in Australia for a long time now, and even though its dealer network is not as extensive as some, you’d be surprised at some of the regional centres that do, in fact, boast a Mercedes dealership (the cars were always popular with farmers in the good years). But beyond that, there’s also an extensive network of independent specialists who know their way around the brand and the cars. They can also often supply parts at a lower cost than dealerships. There’s also a huge online supply of M-B parts thanks to its status as an established global brand. Mercedes cars are highly regarded in many countries, meaning there are some good bargains to be had by shopping globally on the internet. The B-Class generally and the W247 B-Class specifically, were never great sellers for Mercedes-Benz in Australia. It’s difficult to know how many were sold overall, but estimates put the number at around 3000 examples.

Kia’s Sportage model tapped into a rich vein of buyer interest when it was launched here and, by the time the QL (Kia’s internal name for the model) range turned up, the Sportage was an established and popular franchise. Which is probably part of the reason Kia decided to make the Sportage line-up such a comprehensive one. There was only one body style; a five-door SUV wagon (which was what everybody wanted anyway) but beyond that there was lots of choice. Trim levels started with the base Si, then moved to SLi and finally to Platinum. The Platinum badge was dropped in 2017 and replaced with the GT-Line tag to bring the Sportage into line with the rest of the Kia range in Australia. At about the same time, a new variant called Si Premium was slotted in between the Si and SLi. The base version was available with a 2.0-litre petrol engine with 114kW or a turbo-diesel of the same size making 136kW but a lot more torque (400Nm played 192Nm). The Si Premium was a 2.0-litre petrol proposition only, but the SLi could be had with either engine as well as the option of a 2.4-litre petrol engine with 135kW. The Platinum and its replacement GT-Line, meanwhile, were available with either the 2.4-petrol or turbo-diesel engines. All variants were fitted with a six-speed automatic transmission and while the 2.0-litre versions were all front-wheel drive, the others featured an on-demand all-wheel drive system that engaged the rear axle when grip levels dictated. The Sportage of this vintage was popular for some good reasons. It was big inside compared with its competitors and overall build quality was better than average, too. The locally-tuned suspension and steering worked wonders in making the car more comfortable and agile than it might have been, and the turbo-diesel engine option made for very frugal, relaxed motoring. On the downside, the base 2.0-litre engine felt flat and gutless, and for cars built before July 2018, the ADAS (Advanced Driver Assistance Systems) systems such as autonomous emergency braking, lane-keeping assistance and forward collision warning were only available if you ponied up for the Platinum or GT-Line models. Those features became available across the board after that 2018 facelift, but some ADAS functions such as blind-spot monitoring and rear-cross traffic alert were still restricted to the GT-Line variant.   Overall, this make and model seems pretty robust and many owners have had trouble-free runs. But there is one major thing to watch and that’s oil consumption and early engine wear on either of the petrol engines offered in the Sportage. The engine problems with petrol-powered Sportages concern what’s called piston-slap and bore scoring, both of which are symptoms of accelerated internal engine wear. There are several theories on what causes this, but debris left over from the machining process at the factory as well as poor engine design are just two of them. Either way, if your Kia Sportage engine is making a ticking or tapping noise or consuming lots of engine oil, chances are you have one of the dud engines. There was not a safety recall for this, but Kia Australia was looking at each case on its own merits. The bottom line is that a lot of petrol engines in Sportages (and other Kias) were replaced at Kia’s cost, so that’s the first thing you should check when assessing any second-hand Sportage; has the engine been replaced? If it has, great. If it hasn’t, then the engine probably wasn’t a 'bad' one in the first place. Kia’s own database (via a dealership) should be able to determine what cars were fitted with replacement engines. We’ve also heard of a lot of Kias of this vintage with peeling paint. White seems to be the most affected colour, and it seems as though a bad batch of paint from the supplier was the cause. Again, Kia was sorting this out on a case-by-case basis. The Sportage was recalled twice by Kia, the first to check the anti-lock braking module which could pose a fire threat. The second recall was also for a fire risk as the software that controlled the heater core’s temperature could allow the core to run too hot. You can check out the details at https://www.vehiclerecalls.gov.au/ .   The first-gen cars were the ones that missed out on the ADAS active safety gear unless you paid for the flagship model. With that in mind, go for a later, second-gen car if you’re shopping for anything but the Platinum or GT-Line versions. On the basis of those engine problems, we’d probably give the petrol-engine Sportage a miss, too. Plenty of Sportages of this vintage have reached the 200,000km mark while still having plenty of life left in them. And if the engine problems haven’t occurred by then, it’s a pretty safe bet they aren’t going to surface now. The turbo-diesel, in particular, draws on Kia’s decades of engineering experience in designing and building small-capacity diesel engines, and should be a good long-term prospect provided it’s serviced correctly.   The absolute plum buy would be a post-facelift turbo-diesel GT-Line which got all the ADAS functionality as well as a new eight-speed automatic transmission and all-wheel drive. The diesel engine is far and away the best option in this car and the new automatic only made it better. If you can stretch to a very late example of this car, say from 2020 or 2021, you should find it still has a small amount of the factory seven-year warranty remaining, which is huge peace of mind in any second-hand car. Prices for QL Sportages start at between $7000 and $10,000, but for that you’ll be buying a 2.0-litre petrol example with as many as 200,000km on board. At the other end of the scale, prices can reach the low-$30K mark, but that should get you into a low-mileage, high-specification turbo-diesel car, even with some of that all-important factory warranty remaining.   Kia’s dealer network in Australia has something like 140 dealerships across the country, so parts and service should be no problem. Equally, there’s no shortage of independent workshops that know their way around a Kia Sportage and that will generally be a less expensive option. Parts supply is no problem and Kia’s status as a major global brand means service and repair parts are available form a wide range on online sellers.   The Sportage was a good sales performer for Kia and the brand sold upwards of 10,000 examples per year while the QL model was on sale. So, there are now plenty for sale as used-cars, and the bigger online sales sites often have literally hundreds to choose from via private sellers and licensed dealers.

BMW’s mid-sized sedans and station-wagons have always represented a classy, high-end way to move a family. Competing directly with vehicles such as Audi’s A6-based models and the Mercedes-Benz E-Class, the BMW 5 Series has won its share of admirers over the years as a quality car albeit at a premium price. But now that they’re second-hand, premium models like the BMW 5 Series tend to drop retained value pretty sharply, making them great used-car buys provided you buy the right one. As with any conventional sedan or wagon, however, the BMW has suffered in popularity terms at the hands of the SUV. In fact, while this generation of 5 Series sedans lasted from 2017 to 2023 as the G30 model, the G31 station-wagon that launched alongside it in 2017, left showrooms in 2020 as demand for SUVs made selling a conventional wagon a very tough job. BMW also made the 5 Series line-up a pretty complex, constantly changing animal, so there are the mainstream models to look for as well as some quite specific variants that are worth investigating. Of the mainstream four-door sedan versions, things kicked off with the 520i with its 2.0-litre, four-cylinder petrol engine, 135kW and 290Nm. The 520d was next with a 2.0 diesel, 140kW and 400Nm. The 530i was also a 2.0L four-cylinder, but claimed 185kW and 350Nm due to a different tune. The first of BMW’s famous inline sixes arrived with the 530d with its 3.0 inline six-cylinder diesel and 195kW and 620Nm. The 540i was a 3.0 petrol six-cylinder with 250kW and 450Nm, while the big hitter was the M550i with its twin-turbo 4.4-litre petrol V8, 340kW and 650Nm. In station-wagon variants, there was a 520d (diesel) and a 530i (petrol). The more specialised variants included the 530e PHEV with 185kW and 420Nm and a small EV battery and electric motor. And then there was the really specialised 530d xDrive wagon with the 530d’s engine teamed with an all-wheel drive platform. There was also a sedan called the M550i xDrive which was more or less a 550i sedan with all-wheel drive, 390kW and 750Nm. If that all sounds a bit complicated, that’s because it is. And it also means when you’re shopping for a second-hand G30 or G31 BMW, it’s vital to know exactly what you’re looking at as the used prices vary enormously. The BMW 5 Series has always been portrayed as the driver’s choice in four-door sedans and it remains an entertaining drive in this form. Its interior space has grown over the years to remain relevant in the face of SUVs and the level of standard equipment is good. The best thing about these cars is the way they depreciate heavily in the first few years, making them good value (compared to their new price) as relatively new used cars. BMW’s reputation for building a quality product has been questioned before this model was ever on sale. However, many of the potential issues are the same ones facing other modern cars with their complex drivelines and requirement to meet ever stricter emissions and fuel economy targets. While many owners of this make and model have had great experiences, the BMW 5 Series is not without its problem areas. Like any modern, high-performance engine, the turbocharged engines in the G30 5 Series are fairly highly stressed in their search for maximum performance with minimum fuel consumption. As such, turbochargers have a pretty hard life and can sometimes require complete replacement. Increasingly, the turbo unit is being seen as a consumable item in modern car design. The BMW’s is no different. Plastic fittings in the cooling system of modern BMWs have also caused their share of problems. Thousands of heat cycles can eventually take their toll on these plastic fittings, and relacing them is often the only option. Due to the engine layout, this isn’t always an easy or cheap job. Diesel engines have been known to experience premature crankshaft wear (if you’re unlucky) and crankshaft pulley failures are also not unknown. The turbo-diesel engine also shares a problem seen on many modern diesel designs, of having oil and soot clog the intake system, requiring disassembly and manual cleaning. EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) systems can also fail. V8 engines have a reputation for poor valve stem seals which sees them start to consume oil. Brake wear will be high on performance models and like a lot of European cars, replacement often includes rotors as well as pads, making the job much more expensive. Tyre wear on all-wheel drive versions can also be very high. Beyond that, the LED DRLs can become yellow or fail, and the active flaps in front of the radiator (designed to get the engine to operating temperature quickly) can fail either through an actuator not working, or a simple physical fault in the plastic linkages. It also makes sense in the complex car like this to make sure every electrical function, from the power windows to the sunroof to the central locking, operates correctly. The G30 5 Series has had a relatively trouble-free run in terms of recalls, but there are a few to check if you’re buying this car. The first was for a batch of 2020-built hybrid cars that had the potential for their high-voltage batteries to catch fire. The problem was to do with foreign objects entering the battery, rather than a battery flaw per se. The second recall was to check cars that had been given some software upgrades, In some cases, these upgrades could cause the engine to fail with predictable results if you were on the road at the time. The other recall affected many models across the entire G30 lifespan and was to check starter motors that could allow moisture in and catch fire as a result. For the full details of what cars were affected and what to do if yours is one of them, check out https://www.vehiclerecalls.gov.au/. There’s no particular build date to avoid here, but as is often the case, BMW got better at building the car the longer it did so. That’s why the earlier cars (2017 to 2020) tend to have more problems than later versions. Of course, as with any high-end car, you should always buy on the condition and service history of the car in question, rather than any rule of thumb. It’s not uncommon to see this make and model for sale with better than 200,000km on its odometer, which is impressive for a car so relatively new. That speaks highly for the overall robustness, but also – in an individual car sense – might be pointing to a history as a high-end taxi or city-hotel courtesy car. Most for sale now, however, have covered between 100,000km and 200,00km, and fewer kilometres is always better in a high-end car like this. You should also give any hybrid example a battery-health check to make sure the EV battery is still within specification and can provide a useful electric-only range. BMW’s diesel sedans have always been popular and with good reason. They’re refined, smooth and offer exceptional fuel efficiency. A V8 sedan or wagon with all-wheel drive is also an appealing prospect for skiing weekends and general safety, albeit with higher running costs. But for our money, the sweet spot in the range is the 530i which retains the four-cylinder turbocharged petrol engine, but in a fairly sharp and entertaining state of tune. It’s also one of the cheaper ways into G30 ownership right now. Plenty of these were sold with the M-Sport option pack, and that makes them even better. For low-kilometre, V8, all-wheel drive examples, you can still easily pay $70,000 to $80,000. But that’s against a brand-new price of about $150,000. At the other end of the price ladder, relatively high-mileage diesels and four-cylinder cars start at about $25,000, while there’s lots of choice across a range of specifications in the $30,000 to $45,000 region. You often hear owners of European cars complain about parts prices. And it’s true. If you want genuine BMW service and replacement parts, you’ll generally be slugged quite hard. But if you can live with non-genuine bits and pieces, then the picture is a bit different. The same goes for service and repairs. Use a BMW dealership and the cost will usually be higher than an independent BMW specialist. And because BMW is a global brand, there are lots of online sellers all over the planet who will have what you need. The BMW 5 Series often played second fiddle to the Mercedes-Benz E-Class in the sales race. That said, it usually finished second in its category, but BWM still often sold less than 100 units per month. Of those, the station-wagon accounted for less than five per cent which is largely why it didn’t survive the facelift in 2020 and disappeared from showrooms. Right now, you’ll find the bigger online sales sites will be listing a few dozen G30 5 Series cars.

Ram Australia was very keen, only a couple of years ago, to show us just how good its inline six-cylinder replacement for the Hemi V8 was. But now, having established the new engine's credentials, Ram has brought the V8 out of retirement. It now measures 6.4 litres and is seen only in the, bigger, 2500 version of the Ram pick-up. But has nostalgia talked Ram into a backward step?

Before the first decade of the 21 century was up, there was evidence the cult of the SUV was well and truly gathering pace. Conventional sedans, hatchbacks and even station wagons were falling victim to the almighty SUV, and even station wagon stalwarts like Volvo were revisiting their future model plans. Which is why diverse Volvo V70 station wagon line-up of previous generations was pared back to just a single model – dubbed T6 AWD - for the 2008 launch of the third-gen V70. Gone were the cooking models and five-cylinder variants with and without turbochargers and in was a high-spec turbocharged six-cylinder V70 with all-wheel drive. In a packaging sense, this was still very much a classic Volvo wagon with a boxy outline and lots of room inside relative to its footprint. But the sharp-edged look of previous V70s was softened a little. And where did the previous V70’s customers go for their next Volvo station wagon? To the new XC70, of course, with its jacked-up ride height, tacked on wheel arch extensions, range of trim and driveline options (including a then-sexy turbo-diesel option) and SUV persona. Which left the V70 with its more conventional looks and stance as some kind of orphan. Thing is, it was probably the better of the two Volvos to drive, with better suspension control and the lower ride height making it more dynamic. A facelift in 2010 brought a revised engine with slightly more power and a claim of better fuel efficiency. In an overall sense, the V70 was a great car. It typified Volvo’s approach to sensible car-making at a time when the company was being pushed into the fashion-driven SUV world. But when you consider that even a Volvo SUV was never going to be an off-road vehicle, the plane-Jane V70 is now the smarter buy. With a very similar all-wheel drive system to the XC70, the V70 is all but as competent on slippery or loose surfaces. And nobody has ever complained about the versatility or practicality of a Volvo two-box wagon. Volvo has made its name on reliability, but like any modern car, increasing complexity can take its toll on this aspect. Because of that, Volvo’s once rock-solid reputation for going the distance had faded a little by the time the V70 came along, and it’s fair to say overall reliability was no longer any better than most other mass-market European brands. Volvo’s simpler (non-turbocharged, front-wheel drive) designs were much less likely to give trouble; proof that complex machinery is often more highly strung. The biggest reliability glitch experienced by the V70 was a tendency for some engines to consume excess oil. In the worst cases, entire engines were being replaced under warranty, and you’d like to think any V70s still out there have been fixed or never had the problem in the first place. A compression check prior to purchase would still be a good idea, however. Some V70s also suffered from poor shift quality in the transmission, and this was sometimes traced back to dirty fluid or a transmission that required a reflash. In a smaller number of cases, the clutches inside the transmission were subject to premature wear. Like any high-performance turbocharged engine, the turbo unit can have a finite lifespan and is almost considered a consumable item. Allow for this in your budget. The same goes for the individual ignition coils which can break down over time, and the V70 seems pretty hard on suspension bushes (probably a function of its 1800-plus kilo kerb mass) and all-wheel drive loads. Cars like this are also hard on brakes, but in the Volvo’s case, the advice is to replace not just the brake pads but also the rotors at the same time. This can get pretty expensive. Make sure all the interior electronics work properly, too. If these are on the blink, you could be chasing intermittent problems for a long time. Despite Volvo’s reputation for building safe cars, it’s interesting to note the V70 was recalled on a couple of major safety fronts over the years. A batch of cars built in 2008 was recalled to check the operation of the side-airbag system, while some cars built in 2010 and 2011 were recalled to check the front airbag deployment. Long after the third-gen V70 was discontinued, a recall notice was also issued to check for front seat belt mounts (cables) that could fray and fail over time. The V70 was also recalled to check cooling fan and fuel-pump operation, and you can check out these recalls in detail by visiting: https://www.vehiclerecalls.gov.au/. Early-build cars were the ones most likely to suffer from reliability issues, so the later the build-date, the better the car is likely to be now. The oil burning problems were reportedly solved by the time the 2012 model landed, so a car with an earlier build date is the one to avoid. People don’t tend to buy Volvo station wagons to look at them in the driveway. So, it’s not uncommon to see examples with 250,000km or even more showing. With proper servicing, this should not signal the end of the vehicle’s useful life, but you’d need to see proof of the correct servicing before handing over the money. The post-facelift version of the V70 had more power from the same engine, so it’s probably the one to choose. Beyond that, there’s not much of a decision to be made as the V70 was only available in one trim level and specification (T6 AWD). If you’re looking for more options in the same package, perhaps look at the previous model (the second-gen V7 from 2000 to 2007) which had a choice of petrol engine outputs, two- or four-wheel drive layouts and different trim levels to suit different budgets. Failing that, the XC70 that sold alongside the third-gen V70 offers turbo-diesel power. Roughies with really high mileage are around for less than $10,000 now, but there’s probably better value in spending closer to the low-teens for something with a service record and more moderate kilometres on board. Volvo is a huge global brand and its cars are sold around the world. So, even if you are struggling to find a part in Australia (unlikely) you can always cast the (inter)net wider and shop overseas for cheaper parts. Be wary of seller you aren’t familiar with, and check out buyer feedback to make sure you’re dealing with a reputable supplier. While earlier versions of the V70 were decent sellers for Volvo in Australia, this version was a pretty slow mover in the showroom. It’s unlikely more than a few hundred were sold which is why they’re now hard to find second-hand.

We’re not sure exactly what was going on in Hyundai’s marketing department at the end of the first decade of this century, but somebody was definitely having two bob each way. Up until 2010, the Tucson had been Hyundai’s mid-sized SUV entrant, but that badge disappeared the same year as the ix35 hit showrooms as the Tucson’s replacement. But after just five years on sale, the ix35 was itself replaced by none other than the Tucson. Confused? Us too, but to keep it simple, if you’re shopping for a Hyundai-made mid-sized SUV built between 2010 and 2015, the ix35 is the badge you need to look for. Meantime, leaving nomenclature out of it, the LM (as it was known internally) ix35 was a bread-and-butter kind of family SUV with familiar overall proportions and nothing too confronting mechanically. It could be had in three trim levels (Active, Elite and Highlander, in that order) and with a range of driveline options. There was a 2.0-litre petrol engine with 122kW, a 2.4-litre petrol with 130kW and a 2.0-litre turbo-diesel with 135kW and lots more torque than the petrol variants. The 2.0 petrol was available with either a five-speed manual or six-speed automatic transmission and was front-drive only. The 2.4 petrol and the turbo-diesel were fitted exclusively with the six-speed automatic and were all-wheel drive, although they used on-demand AWD, and operated as front-drivers in most conditions. Conventional wisdom says late-model Hyundais are pretty stout things, even if they don’t offer much in the way of driving excitement. The ix35 makes sense if all you want is a roomy (for its size) box with which to move people and their belongings. But even then, there are some reliability problems to note, and driveability was never anything better than average. Overall, there are better, more entertaining choices in a second-hand SUV of this type. Again, it goes against the mood for this brand, but the ix35 did have some serious reliability issues that, even though they didn’t affect every example, should make you weigh things up carefully before making a purchasing decision. Something very wrong was going on in Hyundai’s engine department at this point in history. All three of the ix35’s engines suffered (to some extent) with some serious issues that saw Hyundai replacing entire engines under warranty in an attempt to stay in favour with its customers. The problems mainly centred around engines that consumed excess oil (to the point where some owners were caught out with empty sumps between services) and rattling engines that were signalling their death knock. The consensus is these problems were caused by poor manufacturing accuracy, leading to cylinder scoring, at which point the engines became noisy (particularly when cold) and started to burn oil. The fix was to either rebuild the engine with a new crankcase or, more commonly, replace the whole engine. Other issues reported over the years have been interior trim peeling (most notably steering wheel covers) and flaking paint caused by a bad batch of paint that affected other carmakers (including Toyota) and was traced to the top coat not adhering properly to the undercoat at the factory. This model Hyundai has had its share of recall notices over the years, some of them more serious than others, but a couple posing a definite safety risk. They include a recall to check the seat belt tensioning system, and a driver’s airbag that could have been assembled incorrectly and not deploy as it was designed to. Leaks were another ix35 recall theme, with oil leaks from the sump, fuel leaks and transmission fluid leaks all creating recall notices. There was also a recall to check some cars for a brake system that could allow brake fluid to contaminate the ABS module, leading to braking problems. You can check out the full details including what batches of cars were affected at: https://www.vehiclerecalls.gov.au/ If you’re buying a petrol ix35, the ones to avoid on the basis of the engine problems and oil burning were the ones from the first generation built between 2010 and 2013. If, however, you’re after a diesel version, the post-facelift cars (2013 to 2015) seem to be the problematic ones. Either way, you’d want to know the service history of any second-hand ix35 and be prepared to shell out for a pre-purchase inspection which would include a compression test and perhaps even a bore-scope examination of the engine. The number of ix35s still floating around with 250,000km on board, or even more, suggests the engine problems were a bit random and clearly didn’t affect every car. We’d still be a lot happier, though, with an example with less than 160,000km on its odometer, along with an up-to-date and complete service history as some proof of it having a chance at going the distance. A car with a factory replacement engine (and documentation to support this) would also be preferable to one with no history. The turbo-diesel ix35 was always the better one to actually drive thanks to its beefier power and torque delivery. The added safety of all-wheel drive only reinforces this view. The petrol versions do the job, but they can feel breathless and stretched a bit tight at freeway speeds when fully loaded. Right now, you’ll find sellers with early-built, high-mileage examples of the ix35 with an asking price of about $5000 or even less. But these are best left to speculators. Better value is to be found in the $8000 to $10,000 price range where you start to find diesel examples with much more moderate mileage showing. Don’t forget that service history. Hyundai is a big brand not just in Australia, but globally. So, spare parts are not hard to find. Neither is a workshop that can navigate what is, fundamentally, a pretty straightforward vehicle. There’s a huge online market for parts to suit cars like this one, but be wary of online sellers you haven’t used before. Don’t rule out parts recycling yards for spares like body panels and some mechanical parts. Despite the problems some owners experienced with this car, Hyundai managed to sell plenty of them here, with sales peaking at about 18,000 per year at one point. That gave it a huge chunk of the market in its segment, but those mechanical problems took their toll, leading to the badge being replaced by the revived Tucson model in 2015. Some owners were forced to walk away from their ix35s when the cost of repairs became more than the value of the car itself. But the sheer sales figures when things were looking good mean there are at least a couple of hundred ix35s for sale on the bigger online sites.

Everybody remembers the Mazda RX-7. With its sexy looks and turbine-smooth rotary engine, it (and the rotary Mazdas that went before it) has a cult following. But what about the RX-8? With its somewhat odd looks and layout (including small, reverse-opening rear doors) even a newer version of the rotary engine couldn’t really save it from obscurity. Relative to the RX-7, anyway. It’s hard to know, therefore, whether to categorise the RX-8 as a two or four-door and that’s a pretty good metaphor for the whole thing; people didn’t understand it then and have largely forgotten about it now. As a used-car, what the RX-8 mostly has to offer is a point of difference. That little rotary engine will spin happily from one end of the tachometer to the other and it’s an engaging car to drive provided you can live with a manual gearbox. In automatic form, the car lost power and was overall a bit dull. Beyond that, it’s another Japanese coupe that is now definitely middle-aged and potentially well past its best. Which means the purchase of a used one requires much skill and judgment. The RX-8 is known internally as the FE model. The RX-8’s biggest selling point (then and now) is its rotary engine. Unlike conventional engines with pistons moving up and down, the rotary uses rotating segments that make for supremely smooth operation and brilliant power relative to its capacity. If that floats your boat, the Mazda will appeal. But if you’re looking for the sort of style for which Japanese coupes are famous, then the odd looks of the RX-8 might be a disappointment. And even though the turbocharged rotary engine has earned a reputation as a giant-killer in performance terms, in the heavier RX-8 with its non-turbocharged engine, it’s not a remarkable performer at all. Entertaining, sure, but fast? No. Like all rotary-powered Mazdas, there’s a huge question mark over the long-term reliability, particularly under the bonnet. The rest of the package is less problematic, but a trashed engine in an RX-8 could easily cost more than the car is actually worth. While technically interesting and great fun to thrash along, the Mazda’s rotary engine can be a bit fragile. It requires very specific oil (some of which will be consumed in normal operation) and can wear very quickly, especially if it’s been driven hard or suffered maintenance neglect. Wear will show up as a loss of engine compression, so a compression test should be part of any pre-purchase inspection. Internal seals can wear and fail at which point the engine can be very difficult to start. Owners have also found out the hard way that the rotary engine (even in good condition) doesn’t like to be switched off until it has warmed up. If it has been switched off before attaining operating temperature, raw fuel can flood the engine, breaking the seal between the metal parts and causing a loss of compression and hard starting. It’s important to determine what’s causing any loss of compression, but in reality, every RX-8 engine needs to be approached with caution. The RX-8 also attracted a type of buyer who was keen to extract every ounce of performance out of the car. As such, crash damage is a real possibility. Check for any mis-match between panel colours and make sure all the panel gaps are straight and uniform. Take a close look underneath for evidence of damage and be very wary of any modified example. Many owners extracted huge power by modifying these engines, but the end result was often a hand grenade missing its pin. The RX-8 can also be hard on clutches, so make sure there’s no shuddering or slipping from the clutch when taking off. A full and up to date service record is an absolute must with a Mazda RX-8 and any modifications to the driveline must be checked closely. Beyond that, be sure to check that all the electrical gear works properly, including the air-conditioning as these units were a bit problematic back in the day and won’t be any better two decades on. Early build (2003 to 2005) RX-8s were recalled to check for a flawed front control arm that could crack, leading to a loss of steering and control. Apparently, a manufacturing flaw was to blame, but it definitely needs to have been examined back in the day. A Mazda dealer should be able to identify affected cars and whether they’ve been checked. Other recalls included potential fuel leaks, electrical problems, and, of course, the dreaded Takata airbag fiasco which saw the RX-8 recalled no less than three times. For more details on these recalls, you can check out: https://www.vehiclerecalls.gov.au/. The RX-8 to avoid is not determined by a production date, but rather by the transmission fitted. To make the revvy rotary engine work with an automatic transmission, Mazda detuned the engine for that version to make slightly more torque but a lot less horsepower. So, instead of 177kW, the automatic RX-8 delivered just 141kW, and the transmission itself is an old-fashioned four-speed unit. Aside from anything else, the idea of an automatic transmission behind such a rorty, zingy little engine is missing the point entirely. This is a real crap-shoot because, depending on how a particular car has been serviced and driven, the rotary engine can last 200,000km, or it could be dead inside 80,000km. The problem there is that you can’t always be sure of a car’s history when it’s a 20-year-old used car. Many RX-8s still getting around are on their second or even third engine, so a car’s history is absolutely vital in this case. You can safely ignore trim levels, because with this car, it all comes down to performance levels. If you’re buying a manual RX-8, then the first generation cars between 2003 and 2008 are the ones to look for. That’s because the facelift in 2008 brought with it a reduction in performance to 170kW in the six-speed manual variant. But, if it’s an automatic you need, then the post-facelift car is the way to go. That replaced the original RX-8’s 141kW with 158kW and the tired old four-speed auto with a much more suitable six-speed unit. We’d still always buy the manual RX-8, however. Prices for relatively high-mileage RX-8s start in the very low teens or even a bit less. The best standard cars can cost closer to $30,000 or even $40,000 depending on mileage and condition. It’s worth noting that, unlike most cars, a modified RX-8 is not always a cheaper alternative to a stock standard example. But be aware that engine mods are fraught with danger and will only be as good as the mechanic who did them. Although the rotary engine in the RX-8 was not identical to rotaries that went before it, it still falls within the scope of the enormous aftermarket this engine has spawned. There’s a universe of replacement and go-fast bits and pieces for the Mazda rotary. On the other hand, the RX-8’s body panels were unique to what was effectively a pretty niche model. So, some trim items and body panels might be getting a bit harder to find. A local race series for the RX-8 probably consumed its share of spare body panels, too. Mazda Australia sold about 6500 RX-8s across the model’s lifespan here. That means there aren’t exactly hundreds of them for sale at any given time and you may have to be patient to find the right one. Again, that local race series for RX-8 will have thinned the ranks of survivors.

Say what you like about the new Chinese brands infiltrating every volume market sector right now. Because love them or hate them, they are pushing down the price of admission to those segments. The plug-in hybrid dual-cab ute segment might be a relatively new one, but it's already a hotly contested battleground. And with the Australian-ised JAC Hunter PHEV now rolling in, it just got hotter.

We normally associate the Mercedes-Benz brand with luxury passenger cars. But the world of Mercedes commercial vehicles is a well established and respected one, too. Popular in Europe, the M-B commercial range is spearheaded by the Sprinter line-up of trucks, vans and busses and Australia has seen its share of them over the years, too. The second generation (code-named W906) was sold here from 2006 to 2018 and, in the process, helped Mercedes commercials get a good foothold in this market. And if you think luxury cars have a bewildering range of options and specifications, the Sprinter line-up over the years puts them all to shame. It’s reckoned the various permutations of Sprinters could generate as many as 1000 different vehicles. It’s easy to believe, too, and even in Australia, Sprinters have been available as vans, busses and cab-chassis formats, with choices including high and low-roof options, short-, mid- and long-wheelbase layouts, single or dual cabs, various driveline choices and even the option of all-wheel drive. Yet for all that diversity, the vast majority of them have been painted white (the only no-cost paint choice in many commercial vehicles). Nearly all Sprinters of this generation sold in Australia were powered by turbo-diesel engines (either four cylinder or V6) and were fitted with five- or six-speed manual gearboxes or six or seven-speed automatic transmissions. Improved engines were added as time passed, usually with a small uptick in performance and economy, but by and large, the engines remained very similar across the 12 years the W906 was on sale here.   Any second-hand commercial vehicle can be a can of worms due to the way it’s been used in the past. While some fleets are meticulous in terms of servicing and maintenance, others are not so careful. And even though it’s built to commercial-vehicle standards and specifications, neglect like that can ruin any vehicle. But if you find a good one, a Sprinter has the potential to change your views on commercials with dynamics and quality that are a cut above the rest of the white-van pack. And let’s face it, a good van is worth its weight in gold when you really, really need one for a specific task. And with Mercedes’ decades of experience in this type of vehicle, the Sprinter often gets it just right.   The reliability and durability of a Sprinter van is much more likely to be determined by the vehicle’s service history than any inherent faults. That said, there are a few things to watch, but the Mercedes is probably one of the better commercial vans for reliability.   Some owners have reported slippage and slow shifting in automatic Sprinters. The good news is this often seems to require nothing more than a transmissions service with new fluid to put things right. The trade reckons the automatic transmissions in the Sprinter need such a service every 120,000km. Sprinters with Diesel Particulate Filters (DPFs) can have trouble with blocked filters that require either manual cleaning or replacement. Sluggish performance and poor fuel economy are early signs of this. Manual Sprinters can develop wear in the shifter mechanism that can lead to a noisy, sloppy shift action and tricky selection. This is usually caused by worn bushings that can be replaced fairly easily. The Sprinter has a reputation for oil leaks from the oil cooler as the odometer clocks up about 170,000km. Replacing the offending seals is the fix. Turbochargers can develop leaks in their plumbing, allowing boost pressure to escape. Poor running, lots of black exhaust smoke and high fuel consumption are symptoms, as is a hissing noise from under the bonnet. The plastic trunking is the culprit but is pretty easy to replace.   This generation of Sprinter van has had its share of recalls, including common ones to attend to oil leaks, fuel leaks, wiring problems, software upgrades, sensors (for the ESP), seat-belt mounting bolts, park-brake problems and even a check to make sure vehicles were not fitted with a left-hand drive specification headlight that could dazzle oncoming drivers. But some other recalls affected very small numbers of vans, thanks to the huge range of shapes, sizes and layouts the Sprinter was available in. Those included a check on 21 examples for faulty paint, and another batch of 11 Sprinters to check whether some spot welds had been missed at the factory. Perhaps the one you really don’t want to miss these days was a recall for early-built Sprinters which may have had an engine problem that could cause the pistons to fail. Software upgrades were involved in the fix, but it would be worth checking to make sure this was done. You can find out more about any of these recalls by visiting https://www.vehiclerecalls.gov.au/   The trade generally regards the 2010 to 2013 Sprinters as the ones to avoid on the basis of changes of the vehicle’s emissions system. This era of Sprinter often used an additive (AdBlue) and the system was not without its problems including a propensity to send the car into limp-home mode. Beyond that, the later the build date the better quality and reliability seemed to get.   Although European fleet operators don’t always travel as many kilometres per year as many Australian fleets, the Mercedes vans were designed for a long service life. Plenty have covered 300,000km or even 400,000km with no major problems, so a high-mileage Sprinter shouldn’t necessarily be overlooked, provided it’s been serviced properly. Most Sprinters sold here were built in one of Mercedes’ German factories, so build quality is pretty good, it seems.   The turbo-diesel engine is a no-brainer for a vehicle like this, and a Sprinter with an automatic transmission will be much nicer to live with in the city and suburbs. From there, your decision should be based on what you’re actually going to lug around with the vehicle The vans with sliding doors are popular and represent the most practical buy for many users. But make sure the one you buy has the load rating you need to stay legal on the road. And don’t rule out the Volkswagen Crafter of this era which was a Sprinter underneath. Previous and subsequent VW vans were all VW’s work, but this vintage Crafter was a rebadged Sprinter and might even be a bit cheaper to buy if you can find one.   Prices for useable Sprinters with some life left in them start at around the $10,000 mark or maybe a little less. There are cheaper ones to be found, but they’re a fair chance to be on their last legs as only a well-used commercial vehicle can be. Modifications such as refrigerated bodies, wheelchair-accessible fit-outs and camping conversions all add value to a used Sprinter compared with a standard one. But make sure any modifications have been done properly and cleared by an engineer so that the resulting vehicle is legal to drive on the road and insurable.   Because the Sprinter was an international model, there are literally hundreds of online sellers who will have the parts you need. You can source many parts locally, but be aware that Mercedes dealership prices on some items will be higher than independent specialists. The same goes for servicing and while there are plenty of M-B dealerships across Australia, equally there are plenty of independent workshops that specialise in this brand and have, on balance, a more palatable hourly labour rate.   Mercedes sold plenty of this generation Sprinter, particularly since it was on sale for about 12 years (a pretty good innings even by commercial-vehicle standards). In 2019, for instance, Mercedes retailed almost 3500 Sprinters across all body styles and specifications, so there are plenty still out there now. The fact that the Sprinter has outlived a lot of its competition from back in the day, also makes them more visible when shopping for a second-hand example.

Skoda is a somewhat strange brand in Australia where it blossomed quite late after being brought into the Volkswagen family. The brand is seen as slightly left of centre in some regards, but utterly practical and sensible in terms of things like layout and packaging. The Skoda Kodiaq is the company’s mid-sized seven-seat SUV. It incorporates all-wheel drive which operates mostly as a front-wheel drive system. Engine choices consist of a 2.0-litre turbo-petrol engine with 132kW, a 2.0 litre turbo-diesel with 140kW and a retuned version of that engine (with an extra turbocharger) with 176kW for the sportier variants. All Kodiaqs used a seven-speed dual-clutch auto transmission with a wet-clutch design. A facelift for 2018 brought a larger 9.2 inch touchscreen and a Sportline trim variant joined the range with its 20-inch alloy wheels and blacked out trim. The other notable addition was the 2022 Kodiaq RS which ditched the turbo-diesel engine for a 180kW turbo-petrol 2.0 litre. Within the Skoda company, this generation of the Kodiaq was known as the NS model. Built on the VW Tiguan’s platform, the Kodiaq is one of the smaller seven-seaters you can buy. In turn, that means the third row seats are exclusively for kids, and smaller ones at that, so it’s an occasional seven-seater for growing Aussie families. If you regularly move more than five bodies, there are better alternatives. What the Kodiaq does have, though, is a big chunk of personality. It’s practical in the way it's laid out and equipped and a bit more playful to look at than the Tiguan it shares so much with. If sporty driving fun is important to you, the Skoda scores a few more points over some of its peers. There will be people who will tell you their Skoda has been the most reliable car they’ve ever owned. And while it’s true build quality and materials are up to the VW family’s usual high standards, the Skoda, based as it is on the Volkswagen Tiguan mechanical platform, has had its share of reliability problems. Overall the picture is not bad and certainly not as terrible as those dark days of VW quality of a decade earlier. The turbocharged 2.0-litre petrol engine has a reputation for liking a drop of oil, but this is down to the design, not a fault with the engine. It uses low-friction piston rings (as do a lot of modern engine designs) and the small amount of oil consumed is more than offset by the fuel savings of the low-friction engine. Owners still need to keep an eye on the oil level, however. The demons of earlier dual-clutch transmissions seem to have been expelled by the time the Kodiaq NS turned up. Even so, you need to see a full service history to be sure and make certain during the test drive the transmission is not slow to select gears or that it doesn't shudder when you take off from a green light. These symptoms point to costly transmission woes. As a seven-seat family car, you also need to make sure the interior hasn’t been pummelled by years of carting kids, dogs and pushbikes around. The Kodiaq had been the subject of a handful or recalls, including one to check whether all the required nuts securing the rear seat had been fitted at the factory. Another was to ensure part of the engine’s plastic cover didn’t contact the turbocharger unit, which could have caused an under-bonnet fire. Possibly the most critical recall, though, was one involving the infamous Takata airbags that were fitted to some Kodiaq and needed to be replaced before they were needed in a crash. You can check out the details at https://www.vehiclerecalls.gov.au/ to see if your car was affected. The alternative is to contact Skoda Australia’s customer service department for a VIN check. Not much changed mechanically over the years the NS model was on sale, so the Kodiaq to avoid now is the one lacking a full service history, with higher kilometres, or evidence of having been neglected or knocked about, rather than one with a particular build date. Experience with VW Group products has taught many people to be suspicious of cars with high mileage. Certainly, any second-hand Kodiaq with a big number on its odometer would force you to check the service history of that car very carefully. The vast majority of Kodiaqs from this series of cars have travelled less than 200,000km, so there’s no intel yet on how they’ll fare with even bigger distances on board. While the Kodiaq featured a maximum five-star safety package as standard, the one to buy now is not a specific trim level, but an example where the original purchaser ordered the Luxury Pack. The Luxury Pack added convenience stuff like ventilated, heated and memory front seats, matrix LED headlights, steering wheel paddles, tri-zone climate-control, as well as some important safety additions such as a 360-degree camera view, lane-keeping assistance, blind-spot monitoring and rear cross-traffic alert. It’s worth the extra for that safety gear alone. Low to mid-teens is where the action starts here, but for that sort of money, you’ll probably be buying a relatively high-mileage example with at least 180,000 or 190,000km on board and perhaps even more. At the other end of the price scale, there’s lots of choice in late model Kodiaqs with little more than demonstrator mileage (sub-10,000km) showing. These are being offered for anything from low $50,000s to $60,000 and occasionally even more than that. That said, they’re basically brand-new cars at that point. Skoda dealerships are not as plentiful as Volkswagen showrooms, but the reality is that a VW dealer should be able to help with much of a Skoda’s servicing requirements. That goes for parts supply, too, and it’s also true to say an independent workshop specialising in late-model VWs should also cope easily with a Skoda. The exception to that will be in terms of body panels and trim pieces which are Skoda-specific. But the Kodiaq is a global model, so there’s plenty of online and overseas sources for such things. Like VW generally, the Skoda brand has a huge enthusiast following, so performance-oriented replacement parts are also readily available from a variety of vendors. Kodiaq sales represent a decent chunk of Skoda’s Australian sales. But as a fairly niche brand, that doesn’t mean Kodiaqs are everywhere. In fact, Skoda sells between 1000 and 2000 Kodiaqs a year in this country, making its stablemate the VW Tiguan, a much more common sight on roads and in the for-sale classifieds.