Graham 'Smithy' Smith reviews the Volvo 240 1975-1993: its fine points, its flaws and what to watch for when buying it.
Driving a Volvo might not be cool. But if you look past its painfully politically correct, safe-and-sound image, you'll find a sturdy, well-built car that would make the perfect ride for the young, inexperienced driver. It shouldn't come as a surprise that Volvo designers placed heavy emphasis on fuel efficiency and safety when they penned the 240 in the early 1970s.
After all, it came at a time of considerable conflict in the Middle East and it was feared our supply of oil would dry up overnight. Fearing the worst, governments around the world introduced regulations designed to encourage car makers to build smaller, more economical cars. The 240 was Volvo's response to the new rules.
Model watch
The 240 debuted in 1975 and ran with regular updates until 1993. From the outside it was rather plain and angular, but the boxy shape delivered plenty of room inside, which made it perfect for families.
The wagon in particular could swallow everything a family could possibly want to carry, and more.There were three levels of trim, starting from the DL, which was the poverty-pack model with a carburettor engine and basic trim.
The GL was the luxury model and came with a fuel-injected engine, power steering and more luxurious trim, while the GLE was the top model and came with all the bells and whistles, including full electrics, alloy wheels, sunroof and the choice of leather trim.
The 240's engine began life as a 2.1-litre single overhead camshaft with a cast-iron, block-and-alloy head.
The carburettor version in the DL put out a modest 75kW, while the Bosch K-Jetronic mechanical fuel-injection engine in the higher models produced 104kW.
The fuel-injected engine was increased to 2.3 litres in 1981, and in 1984 the fuel-injection system changed to Bosch L-Jetronic electronic and power slipped to 98kW.
There was a choice of auto or manual transmissions. Early cars had Borg-Warner 35 three-speed autos or four-speed overdrive manuals, but a five-speed manual arrived in 1983, followed a year later by a four-speed Aisin-Warner auto.
The suspension was conventional McPherson strut at the front and live axle at the rear.
In standard trim the 240's ride was comfortable and its handling secure, and with some tweaking of the springs, shocks and sway bars it could be transformed into quite a sporty ride.
Its steering was precise rack and pinion, and brakes were disc front and rear.
Market values
Values of 240s vary from $500 for a giveaway 1975 model to $9000 for a 1993 model – which represents the best value and must be a car worth considering for young drivers about to take to the road for the first time.
Be careful when checking a car, though, and make sure the odometer is working. Odometers are prone to failure and owners happily motor on without getting them fixed, which means you can't tell how many miles it's done.
If you find the odometer isn't working ask for proof of mileage.
In the shop
It takes a lot to kill a 240, they're almost indestructible, but if you manage to pull off the impossible they're not hard, or expensive, to fix.
The good news is there are lots of 240s around, and second-hand parts are easy to find and cheap.
An added bonus is the high degree of interchangeability of parts: a guard from a 1975 model will bolt straight up to a 1993 model, for instance, and there are plenty more parts that will do the same.
Rust isn't a big problem with the Volvo. The bodies were well rustproofed and don't seem to corrode as much as some other cars.
If rust is evident in the doors or guards, check for crash repairs because the rust is probably due to poor repairs at some stage.
The most likely places you'll find rust are around the side windows on the wagon, and around the lower corners of the windscreen on sedans.
The four-cylinder powerplant is good for 400,000-plus kilometres and there are plenty around that are testimony to that.
One owner boasts his 240 is still running like a clock with almost 700,000km on the odometer.
Early cars will happily run on unleaded fuel, but later cars between 1984 and 1986 with a higher compression ratio will ping on unleaded or lead-replacement petrol and need a higher-octane fuel like Optimax to run happily. One solution is to reduce the compression ratio, which can be done for about $400.
Oil leaks can be a pest on the 240's engine. Front seals are prone to leaking but these can be routinely fixed when the cam belt is changed at the recommended 60,000km intervals, and leakage from the rear main seal is not uncommon. The 240s driveline is bullet-proof. Little trouble is reported from the auto or manual trans and the diff lasts forever.
The interior trim is hard-wearing and stands up quite well to the harsh Aussie conditions. Cars that have been exposed to the sun all their lives will probably have cracked crash pads.
Checkpoints
- Boring, boxy styling hides comfortable and roomy interior
- Bullet-proof mechanicals
- Crash protection for young drivers
- Good supply of inexpensive second-hand parts
Rivals
Mercedes-Benz 230/230E (1973-1985) $1600-$10,000
BMW 520i (1973-1985) $1000-$6500
Peugeot 505 (1980-1993) $900-$9000
