The BMW R 1200 GS Adventure (GSA) is like a two-wheeled version of the luxurious Lexus LX570. Photo Gallery
The sun was setting behind the ranges, so I flicked on the spotlights and the slippery winding road ahead illuminated into view.
Time to switch the traction control from sport to full and the suspension damping from hard to soft.
A flashing readout on the LCD told me the ambient temperature had dropped below 3C, so I also flicked the hand warmers from low to high.
I toggled through the "info" button by the left handgrip and checked the fuel range. Enough to make it to Glen Innes, according to the roadside sign.
Welcome to the world of the BMW R 1200 GS Adventure (GSA). It's like a two-wheeled version of the Toyota LandCruiser; better make that the Lexus LX570, because this is the luxury version.
We rolled into Glen Innes in northern NSW about 6.30pm, still feeling fresh despite a 530km journey that consisted of mainly pulverised country tar and dirt roads, including the exciting and ever-changing Clarence Way.
Not many bikes could have done the journey and probably not any other bike could have done it in such comfort and ease. Best long-haul seat I've experienced.
Next morning, the temperature was -2C as we set off for the return leg to Brisbane.
But protected behind a large windscreen and wide fuel tank "fairing", with hand warmers and bigger wind-breaking handguards, there was little the elements could do to stop the fun.
The big GSA - with all the extras you can throw at it - is simply unstoppable. You can even get tyre pressure sensors which will tell you if you have a slowly deflating tyre, providing confidence when riding over sharp gravel tracks.
It doesn't all come cheaply, but you can end up with a bike that will only be limited by rider ability.
A GSA without ABS costs $25,470. Still a formidable travelling companion, as Ewan McGregor and Charley Boorman found in Africa on the Long Way Down ride.
How much easier it would have been with all the "fruit": anti-lock brakes ($1775), electronic suspension adjustment ($900), automatic stability control ($385) and tyre pressure control ($380).
ESA has been updated to include off-road settings. So you now have "soft", "normal" and "hard" damping for one-road situations with rear preload adjustments for one rider, a pillion and luggage, plus front and rear preload adjustment for off-road in moderate and tough terrain. That adds up to 15 different settings with a 20mm height adjustment for the latter.
For my weight, I chose the lower off-road preload setting with "soft" setting for a fast rebound action to keep traction over corrugations.
BMW has a hide calling its traction control "stability control" which seems to indicate it has yaw sensors and includes the braking system like in a car. Their ASC only affects the drive in the back wheel. It can be switched off, left on full or used in "sport" mode.
I left it in sport most of the time and enjoyed the gentle and predictable power slides which help the bike turn in tighter on slippery dirt roads. _They also make you look more skilled than you really are.
When the ignition is switched on, the bike defaults to traction control and ABS, so you have to make a decision at that point what you want.
If it's a long ride like this one, leave both on to reduce fatigue. The new ABS even works in the dirt because it is now especially calibrated to allow the tyre to bite a little before releasing. It works just fine at a moderate touring pace.
With all this technology and rider choices, it may not be long before BMW offers the perfect off-road setting of ABS for the front only. This is starting to sound like an endorsement for BMW's technology, but there is still a nagging worry in my mind about the longevity of this electronic gadgetry and the effect of Australian bulldust.
In two weeks and more than 2000km of testing there was no way to know. Certainly nothing failed in that time.
BMW marketing manager Miles Davis assured me that BMW had "fully tested and developed the electrics to cope with anything it is likely to encounter".
The new model also gets a power boost to 77kW across a wider rev range, a lower first gear, a lower final drive, LED tail-lights, white indicators, chrome exhaust, a beefier shaft, extra durability in the final drive, improved seats, bigger adjustable handlebars, new handguards, new colours, slight styling changes and a more accurate fuel readout, although part-filling the tank can sometimes lead to false readings.
BMW R 1200 GS
PRICE: $25,470 (without ABS) $29,415 (as tested)
ENGINE: 1170cc, 4-valve, air/oil-cooled boxer twin
POWER: 77kW @ 7500rpm
TORQUE: 115Nm @ 5750rpm
ECONOMY: 5.1L/100km (tested)
FUEL TANK: 33L, 4L reserve
TRANSMISSION: 6-speed, shaft drive
SUSPENSION: Telever (front), Paralever (rear)
SEAT HEIGHT: 910/890mm
TYRES: 110/80 R19, 150/70 R17
KERB WEIGHT: 256kg
OPTIONS: ABS $1775, ESA $900, ASC $385, tyre pressure control $380, alarm $505
