Hyundai IX35 Pricing and Specs

This was a huge problem for manufacturers back when turbo-diesels first started using Diesel Particulate Filters (DPF). The problems started when owners were using their diesel-powered vehicles just as they had their previous petrol cars. That is, for short, urban journeys where the exhaust system never got hot enough to perform a DPF regeneration (which is critical to the way these filters reduce tailpipe emissions).

To counter that, some manufacturers programmed the engine to dump extra fuel into the exhaust to get it hot enough for a DPF regeneration. Inevitably, however, sometimes some of that extra fuel found its way past the piston rings and into the engine's sump. And suddenly, there was more oil in the sump one day than had been there the previous day.

The problem there was that the diesel now in the sump was actually diluting the engine's lubricating oil, and that could lead to accelerated engine wear and bearing failure. The best solution – then and now – is to make sure you drive the vehicle at freeway speeds for at least an hour every three or four weeks. That will get things hot enough for the DPF to regenerate if it has to, and not rely on the extra diesel the computer will pour into the engine.

You could be looking at a specific DPF problem or maybe a software glitch that is messing up the regeneration, but if the level on the dipstick is rising, then I'd say that's your problem.

If you're selling or trading-in the car, then a quality, tested second-hand engine from a wrecked iX35 is probably your best bet. This will be the cheaper option and even though you could spend a lot of money having the current engine reconditioned or a brand-new engine fitted, you'll find that won't affect the resale value as much as the extra outlay.

That said, it all depends on what's wrong with the current engine. If it's completely trashed, then a replacement is the go. But if your engine has simply stopped working for a potentially simple reason, then it might be worthwhile fixing it and maybe saving even more money. Either way, making your car a proper running vehicle again will definitely justify the cost as it's virtually worthless in a non-running state.

As for other brands of engines, the only viable choice is the same engine that make and model came with from the factory. Trying to fit anything else is a whole new car of very expensive worms.

If a timing belt breaks, one of two things are likely. Either the broken belt will allow the valves and pistons of the engine to collide, instantly turning the engine to scrap. (This is what happens in what's known as an interference engine design.)

The other alternative is that the belt snaps, but no intrinsic metallic parts collide (this is the case in a non-interference engine). If that's the case, the car won't run, but if a new belt is fitted and the engine retimed, it should work perfectly afterwards.

But even in an interference engine, if the tensioner gets slack but doesn't actually allow the timing belt to jump ship or break, then there's a chance that you've avoided a catastrophic failure. The bottom line is that if your engine suffered a problem with the timing belt, but works properly after being fixed, then all should be good in the long run.