Ford Kuga Pricing and Specs

This crops us frequently as a dispute between car owners and dealerships and it's all because of one thing: Extended warranties are generally not worth the paper they're printed on. They're designed to relieve car buyers of more money, thinking they'll be covered if the worst happens. Usually, the warranty is carefully written to avoid paying out on the things most likely to go wrong. Never has 'read the fine print' been so important.

Consider that the warranty your purchased only covers the first $3500 of an engine replacement. Where on earth can an engine be replaced for that sort of money? It's a clear case of the fine print giving the warranty provider a convenient escape clause. Don't forget, this extended warranty is not a Ford factory warranty, it's a third party deal that car-dealers love because they get a kick-back from the warranty company every time a car buyer signs on that dotted line. Dealers also love these warranties because it forces owners into over-servicing their cars. Does it not seem strange that the car designed and engineered by Ford to have a 12-monthly service interval suddenly needs a six-monthly service as part of the warranty conditions?

As far as the replacement engine goes, be very careful about what you're being offered. If the engine is, indeed, a reconditioned engine, it doesn't really matter how many kilometres it has already done because reconditioned means it has been fully rebuilt with new parts. If, however, it's a second-hand engine plucked from a wrecked Kuga, then I would argue that an engine with the same mileage as the one in your car should be fitted. But I'll guarantee you there's some fine print in that warranty that makes me wrong about that, too.

The newer the car, the more economical it’s likely to be in the real world. If you’re chasing outright fuel economy (and that’s a powerful argument with current fuel prices) then a conventional hatch is likely to be a little more frugal than an SUV of the same size thanks to the latter’s higher ride height (for reduced aerodynamic efficiency) and chunkier tyres.

A CVT transmission arguably offers a more efficient solution, but not everybody likes the way a CVT feels to drive. The other choice to make is whether to go petrol or diesel or even hybrid.

Since you’re driving is largely suburban, I reckon that rules out a diesel as you’re likely to have ongoing issues with the vehicle’s emissions control system which won’t appreciate that sort of use. Diesels are better for country running, and that’s just the way it is. A diesel car is also likely to cost a bit more to service over the years.

That leaves petrol and it’s a fact that the newer petrol engines are a lot closer to diesels in terms of outright fuel economy. But if you really want to save fuel costs in a suburban car, then a petrol-electric hybrid is the solution. These will cost more to buy, but with 40km a day, you’ll probably get that money back in a reasonable timeframe.

Look at the South Korean makes (Hyundai and Kia) as both brands have a large range of SUVs and still – unlike some brands – still bother with conventional hatchbacks. Check out Toyota, too, which has a good history in hybrid small cars.

This model has a terrible record in terms of engine overheating. Even the petrol engine version has been recalled by Ford Australia after overheating and engine-bay fires were reported both here and in other markets.

The diesel doesn’t seem as likely to catch fire, but there’s definitely a trend for it to present with exactly the same problems and outcomes as your vehicle. Those symptoms include a lack of warning that anything is amiss, followed by a total engine melt-down with destructive consequences. As of right now, Ford hasn’t recalled the diesel-engined Kuga for this problem, but it’s definitely a thing around the world.

In your case, it’s critical to know whether the problem was pointed out to a Ford dealership within the three-year warranty period. If that’s the case, then you have what’s known as a pre-existing problem which means, if the dealer was made aware of the fault within the factory warranty period, then it’s a warranty case. No questions.

Back when your car was brand-new, it carried a three-year warranty, so, you need to work backwards from the date you first notified the dealer of a problem (when the vehicle was topped up with coolant but not diagnosed further) to see if that falls within the first three years of that car’s registered life. Even if it works out a little beyond the warranty period, you’d have a strong case for a pro-rata contribution from Ford for the cost of repairs, since Australian Consumer law can, in some case cases, over-ride factory warranty restrictions. Your case will be even stronger if you have proof of a Ford dealership service history.

Even then, there could be some wrangling on the part of the dealer, particularly in terms of what actually caused the engine failure. But I’d be talking to Ford Australia’s customer service division to try to work out a solution.